So this is how the story goes, I'm stopped at a red light in the right lane at the front of the lane, (I need to get into the next lane)when the light turns green I accelerate from first and get a head and just when I go to shift at 5000 rpms, my car slows down and spudders, almost like chugging forward. So I slow down and the engine sounds way louder than usual. I stop and wait for about an 1 hour before starting it again. It started first try but now the engine was making a loud pitch "EEEEE" noise, I drove it slow to see how it was. It seemed bogged down, eventually I gave it some gas and I didnt hear the turbo spool up, and when I shifted it didnt make its normal BOV sound.

The car is a 1990 Eagle Talon AWD TSI, stock turbo, basically stock everything under the hood. The Transmission and clutch were replaced about 9 months ago.

Any help is good help, Thanks

Sounds like a boost leak to me

Yep, check your piping and do a boost leak test!

Thanks for the input, Just to make sure though can you give me a quick run down on how to set up the boost leak test. (I understand the basics, but better to be safe than sorry )

I have an air compressor and the boost leak tester, Just wondering what has to be taken off the turbo. Thanks

No prob! Check out http://www.vfaq.com

You'll just be pulling the air canister and intake snorkel before the turbo.

Sorry for the late response but I finally have the time and Help (Brother)to do the test. lol. But I need a few more questions filled in before I feel 100% confident.
Should I take off my oil cap before the test?
Should I also run the test at the TB elbow? or is that included at just putting it at the Turbo inlet?
When you say Air canister and intake snorkel does that include taking the intake hose off(like the squishy black hose going into the turbo) lol?

Other than that im set. lol
Thanks for all the patience and help.

You can leave the oil cap on.
Yes I did mean you remove the intake snorkel (black "accordion" tube). Your tester should attach directly to the turbo compressor inlet.
The point is to find leaks in the intake path between the turbo and the cylinder head, so you only need to test from the compressor inlet to include the whole system. Good luck!

Alright so I performed a boost leak test today and found a medium leak where my BOV is connected, tightened and sealed it and after that no leak there. Near the oil cap I could hear a hissing noise, but i think thats normal? It could also have been the far right injector. Is that possible?

I put everything back together snug and went for a test drive. The car still seemed to vibrate quite noticibly in the car at idle. (I dont have a big exhaust on it either). I took it for a test drive, and it still seemed bogged down. The vibrations got worse, and no matter how far I pushed the pedal to the floor, i couldnt get the rpms over 3000. The BOV still did not make its normal noise. Any IDEAS?

You probably need new injector insulators, Mitsu part # MD087060

Also, reset your ECU by removing the MPI fuse (near the battery) for a moment. The ECU would have been compensating for that BOV leak you fixed.

Do i pull it while the cars on or off?