For lack of a better place to put this, I'm posting here.

I'm going to store my car for the winter to save some money and maybe get some freakin work finally done on it. I just wondered if you guys had any tips as I'm sure a lot of you store your cars for the winter too.

As for 'store' I really mean park behind my house under a blanket or two and a big tarp. I'm on the ball with topping off the fluids, getting a fuel additive or something so it doesn't freeze, and taking out or unhooking the battery...anything else?

I've heard it's a good idea to put it up on jackstands and support the control arms with other jackstands to save the suspension and tires. My roommate stored his GTI last year just sitting on the ground, only his was in heated/covered storage, any thoughts?

when I store my car I will put it on jackstand. Imagine your 1200+kg car sitting on 4 tires for 4 months without rotating, there will be so much pressure on the buttom of your tires only....for all those time.....

Do you support the control arms too?

I keep i ton the tires... but I roll it a bit every couple weeks. At that time I also fire he up to operating temperature.

Rolling it is just so you don't get flat spots on the tires, but if it's just for winter you have nothing to fear, but it's good to roll it anyways.

I stored my mustang in a warehouse for a winter and it was so fun firing it up inside the place. It's so loud

I kept mine on the rear wheels with the front end on jackstands for 11 months - no suspension or tire problems.

Here is what I did:

- Kept mine on 4 jack stands
- added fuel stabiliser to full tank of gas
- changed oil before storage (mineral 10W-40)
, left old oil filter
- started it up every week or so
- re-charged the battery when needed (you don't want to deep discharge it)

When done storing, change oil and filter. This year I will also put jack stands or wood blocks under the drive train to lessen pressure on the carrier bearings.

My car gets stored every winter.
1.Add fuel stabilizer to full tank of fuel, (make sure to drive car for a few minutes to make sure treated gas gets to entire fuel system)
2.Change Oil
3.New air freshner/keep windows open very slightly and pop hatch
4.Park car on squares of plywood 1x1
5.Remove battery
6.Cover with cover
7.Wait until spring

I've read from many sources that you should not start up the car unless you intend to drive it for a good 30 mins or so. Letting it idle up to operating temp is not a good idea, plus, it would take forever to the oil (not coolant) up to operating temp.

I think Tim has it best. But,as you are storing it outside, unless you have an expensive cover you may get condensation underneath which may wreck the paint during winter freeze and thaw cycles. You need some air movement in there. Use spacers between the body and the tarp. The tarp will need to be held down so it doesn't blow off.
Use cheap PVC piping as spacers because wood might exude sap. 2X4's all around the ground on top of the tarp with breeze block on top of the 2X4's should keep the tarp down and prevent snow from getting in and melting from under a cover during a blizzard. Basically build a winter tent.

The battery should go indoors or at least be disconnected or the clock will kill it.

Make sure your antifreeze is up to snuff or you may blow a frost plug. And don't forget the front and rear WWAF or you may have fun with your wipers in the spring if they contain summer anti bug fluid.

Check the net, specially the manufacturer of the gas additive and use the phone to call a dealer. They may have some good ideas too. I drive mine during the winter on nice days and curse at the 3 hour wash time after. I don't want even dry salt in there. But, I have a wash bay in the underground so I'm somewhat more fortunate than you.

Just some thoughts and the other posts were good too.

Cheers Tony

Can you elaborate on that? Does it have anything to do with the fact that the engine can't cool itself properly when ideling?

Chris, I think the theory behind it is that if you start the car for only a short while, it creates moisture and condensation in the engine components and exhaust. You would then have to keep the car running for longer (20 min. at least) for it to evaporate.

Here is the governments theory. It's from the MNR so they are more interested in air pollution but it seems to make sense.

http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/idling/issues_idling/engine.cfm?Text=Y&PrintView=N

Cheers Tony

And heres one from the Porsche club

http://www.sempca.org/techtips/winter_storage/

It appears to me there are different ideas. Perhaps if the moderators know any DSM'ers that have successfully stored their DSM's outside and not wrecked them during spring startup they would ask them to post. Otherwise you'll have to use your own judgement.

And one last thing, and I'm not being facetious, get some dog sh!t and put it under the car to disuade our furry rodent friends from nesting in your car. They love eating spark plug wires and other bits. It saves them from scrounging for food the odd time they wake up during a thaw. How you collect it is your business. Don't call Clay on that one, he may respond rather rudely, and I doubt he has any in stock.

I hope your car is OK in the spring. And remember there is a spring startup process as well. Good luck.

Cheers Tony

Tony,
Do you have details on the spring startup?

I store my Z outside all winter, and my DSM outside all summer. Here's what I do.

I park them beside my house. Take out the battery. Put cover on car. Walk away until it's time to pull out the car.

That's it. That's all I do. And you know what? I've never had a problem with any of them. And they've all been older/higher mileage cars.

Matt,

I found this interesting one for spring start up. Note removing the steel wool from the tail pipe. Forgot that one for the winterizing. I'll keep looking. I'm probably not yet using the correct search words.

http://www.johnoldcar.com/news_tips.htm

Cheers Tony

Vehicle storage is hilarious because everyone has a different idea.

When you store a car, you drain the oil and remove the battery. Usually you don't put it up on jackstands, or roll it. You don't usually start it.

When you store a motorcycle, you change the oil, and charge the battery. You do put it on stands, or roll it periodically. You do periodically start it.

Whatever. :rolleyes:

Since very few people ever have any problems, I'm sure you'll be fine.

Sean,

Agreed few people have problems but Matt doesn't want to be one of them. The guy with water in his new spring oil having to immediately do a second oil change and even worse the oil pan rusted out due to condensation as there was no oil. The bike owner with gummed up float bowls because he didn't put the gas additive in. And I think you meant a trickle charger not just a single charge unless you like a dead battery in the spring.

I've seen all these things occur to both cars and bikes stored outside which is Matts case, I being a former Class-A mechanic. E.G. Why did my oil pan rust out the car was rustproofed? How do you store the car in winter? Every year I store it outside with no oil. Or why when I went to start my bike it cranked and cranked until the battery went dead? Did you put any additive in the gas?

If you don't care about your car just cover it. It will work in the spring but you'll be paying guys like I used to be maintenance down the road if it starts.

And I agree there are many different ideas about what to do when storing a car outside. Obviously Matt cares about his car hence his dilemma and hence his post. Hopefully he will pick what makes sense from the various sources for his particular circumstance. Is it in a barn(critters)? Is it on dirt or pavement(Jacks) etc.

In all, I'm sorry if I chastised your posting, but thanks for replying. At least you too are trying to help. That's part of what this club is about you old timer being member 289.

Cheers Tony

I think we're all only interested in the right ones. That's the problem.

Maybe you could clear up some things, then.

Oil: Stories I've been told about oil include the idea that the oil will degrade in storage. Some people even go so far as to say that the oil eventually becomes corrosive.

So, do you:
- Drain the oil or leave it in?
- Change it before storage?
- Change it after storage?

And WHY?

Gas: I'm currently trying to find out what the real shelf life of modern gasoline is, and under what conditions. I've heard numbers between 6 months and 5 years and I don't believe any of them, because nobody who KNOWS from primary knowledge of the storage characteristics of petrochemical products has spoken up.

For gas, do you:
- Store it empty?
- Store it full?
- Use gasoline stabilizer?

And WHY?

Tires: Some people don't believe that an inflatable rubber doughnut will acquire a flat spot from having constant pressure on one side for a period of time. Some people do.

For tires, do you:
- Store with the tires on the ground?
- Store with the tires off the ground?
- If on the ground, do you move/roll the vehicle periodically?

And WHY?

Battery: Some people say disconnect it. Other people say to leave it on a charger - a trickle or maintenance charger, as you pointed out. Personally, I think I already know the answer to this one, but for the sake of completeness:

For the battery, do you:
- Disconnect it or leave it connected?
- Maintenance charge it during storage?
- Charge it after storage?

And WHY?

Starting: Some say that the engine should be started periodically. The argument seems to be that it keeps the engine better lubricated, so it's not subjected to a "dry" start after storage. Others believe that every cold start is ultimately damaging to the engine, so unnecessary starts are not recommended.

For starting, do you:
- Start the vehicle periodically, or not?
- Let it run to normal operating temperatures, or not?

And WHY?


Obviously some of these are related, but I think this covers most of it.

Sean...i think its time you add some more questions to the 1000aaq

Use a gas stabilizer keep the car off the ground store the tires inside. If possible. Put in frsh oil before starting fi you use synthetic you dont have to put it in for this period because yuoull ahve to change it in the spring. Yes cover your car but dont always leave yit covered the cars paint does need air. Do use a fuel aditive a half tank is not bad and modern gas wont go bad durring this period. Give it a start once a week or so keep the battery inside if possible. If you can squirt a bit of oil down each cylinder if your not starting it regularly. If your keeping the car on stands remove or spray rotors to avoid having them machined or replaced. They do have spray you cna puton them to prevent rusting and you can clean it off in the spring. Top up all levels check your coolant to see if it still has its strength. If you let a car sit for to long coolant can eat away at your block and youll be needing anew motor. for those who say that snt possible arugue it but ive seen it iwht my own 2 eyes.

After reading this, I decided to change my procedure a bit.

I will add the steel wool to the exhaust and remove the battery.

Thanks for good post..

So when are you guys parking your cars for the winter? I think I'll park mine at the end of October or earlier if the weather is bad.

Chris I think I will park mine at night then start it again in the morning. Storage!...Storage!! The best way to store a car is to not store it Drive it Wash regularly to keep the salt and dirt off and thats it. When a car sits things rust, seize and seals get hard. So unless its a classic or antique show car get it on the road.

I'm trying to, that's the point. But I won't add information based solely on opinions that lack any justification to back them up.

Seans right there is more myth and folklore on car storage so the answer you get depends on who you ask.

looky here to address dampness and damage issues http://www.carcapsule.com/

I ran my car last winter, and am not opposed to running it in the winter, but under the circumstances I'd prefer to save the roughly $300/month from insurance and gas and whatever else might go wrong and put it towards my new engine and rent.

I think other than a fuel additive and taking the battery out, I'll inflate the tires a bit more, about 45psi, and cover the car with a blanket and then tarp when the air gets a bit drier.

As for air circulation, ya maybe I can put some foam bricks or something on the roof/hood/trunk, but I really don't think it's necessary. My paint sucks anyways.

Thanks for all the tips guys.