Found one with blown motor for 200$, Timing belt went, figure good enough deal that I could use it for a project car, however being FWD I am wondering if its worth the time to build big HP on.

What do you guys think? Worth the trouble?

If you want a highway monster and don't need good results at the track or light-to-light, then FWD is OK.

The big HP will be useless unless you're already moving, and even then it's only good in higher gears where you can get in big trouble on the streets.

You could build it for the drag strip but the cost is high for the results compared to an AWD car. It would also not be very "streetable".

If you want it on a road course, again AWD is king.

Some advantage though is if you are not taking it too far, it should be more reliable and fuel efficient.

So, what's your goal?

I think Kiggly is pretty quick on a FWD. 8.3 @ 165mph. Not exactly a street machine though.

The goal was to build it to drag with so I didn't abuse my 2g and keep the 2g as my lightly modded DD, but its starting to look like even at 200$ its not worth the effort if its FWD.

Get a set of slicks if you want to drag. You will always be fighting traction issues otherwise.

Alternatively I could build the 2g to be beast and DD the 200$ FWD, lack of AWD in the winter would suck though.

I would take a look at this.

http://www.douro-oni.com/memberView.cfm?ID=1
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/gixxerdrew/

FWD isn't that bad. Again, depending on your goals. With some average mods you can be at the AWD's (similar/little more mods) door be the end of second, and blow by through third.

If you want a quick all around car I would go with the AWD. I have one of each, and they're both fun. but I can see where the AWD would become more practical.

Well the car is 200$ and its FWD, I doubt I would buy a AWD unless I could find one for around that price. I figured it could make a decent project car since its cheap and rebuild-able.

Really its FWD or no car haha, I don't really have the ambition to spend more then 500$ to get a car that I will have to rebuild either way as if I got a running AWD I would rebuild with better internals regardless.

FWD is fine for drags, but like mentionned above, get yourself a good set of slicks. Also, if you're running a massive snail, get yourself a multi-stage boost controller. It'll run lower boost initially, and with the actuating of a switch, it'll increase the boost with the second stage.

http://turboxs.com/shop_prod.php?what_category=1

Could probably use ECM link to actuate it automatically, rather than run a switch.

A thought, anwyay.

My car was origionally a fwd & the hp/torque numbers in my sig were my street tune a few years back at 24psi. I swapped the car to awd & now that I've had both, I would never build a high hp fwd car again. The awd is basically better at everything (other then fuel economy), not just going straight. Even with good drag radials, fwds can be a pain at the track.

For an all around car, I would say go awd but if you plan to drag it only, a proper set of slicks will make a HUGE difference. Normally want to run the smallest rim & largest sidewall combo. Personally I prefer the awd but a fwd with slicks can defently be made to run fast at the track (will just take abit more to set it up properly vs an awd).

FWIW you shouldn't just throw slicks on..
Slicks with the stock axles and open diff =
It's a lot of $$$ to do it right.

But on the other hand, street tires with a stock open diff can mean even more so then slicks. Its typically the good old fwd wheel hop that kills axles & most often the stock open diff. Slicks, while they hook much better are alot less likely to hop & help to prevent the shock you get with street tires, which is the real killer.

Or spend the $90 and get a better set of mounts to eliminate wheelhop

Regardless, to the OP, if you're getting this car for $200, who really cares. If you chose to change your mind you can probably part it out for at least double that anyways!

Well the prothane mounts aren't really a magic pill for wheel hop. It's still rather violent if you give it too much at the line. You can practice the wheel hop away, but then run into trouble on the 1-2 shift when only one of the wheels gets traction. Kaboom!

I guess my point after all is you need a good diff (LSD), and then everything outward from that. So it's rather expensive!

i never tried it but the awd d/s shaft is a bolt in .. should help a little.. its really frustrating though even at 15psi wheel hop is terrible on a 14b.

with slicks / lsd tranny / awd driveshaft you should be ok

Well I could always do a AWD swap down the road should I need it, but at that point I should just start with an AWD i would think. But at 200$ even with the blown engine its a hard price to pass up.

I tried that and it's not a bolt-in. Unfortunately there is no compatible seal for the diff. Mopar used to make a shim kit to make the AWD seal work, but it's no longer available.
Someday I'll make one for myself.

Well at 200$ is it still worth it? This is the car, the timing belt snapped from what I gather as I was told this "orginally bought it off someone because they had problems with the the motor something to do with one of the cam's."

The spoiler is gone now too. Getting updated pics later today.

Obviously you haven't driven a 400whp+fwd, trust me, motor mounts are not going to sove this issue

I would pass. Car seems like it needs alot of work and would cost you the same amount as a running awd.

This is what I am starting to think after pricing some stuff out.

On the other hand If its not a huge fix its a good deal and if its not repairable for cheap I could part out the panels then scrap metal it and make my money back.

I'd have ta see the car but,.. FWD your better off spending 1-2K for a 1G AWD and then u got a decent platform if your picky about what you buy.

Don't do it. I did something like this and just ended up eating money and have nothing to show for it.

I wouldn't expect a FWD 1ga with a blown engine to go for any more than that anyways.

EDIT: Unless it was extremely clean

I told the guy I would think about it (nice way of saying probably no) and he dropped it to 150. The car overall is in amazing shape body wise, looks like no rust at all the engine actually doesn't look bad besides the obvious damage.

Not going to go ahead with it but if anyone wants some 1g parts I can pick it up and tear it down for you.