Ian has a Maf-t in his car and we dont have the proper manual for it. He has the manual for version 1.3. We need the manual for version 1.7. Does anyone have this kicking around? The reason is that the 1.3 has different tuning knobs and settings. We want to make sure we get it right!

Thanks

Ok, so apparently the maft we just found out is from an LS1. This may be why we cant build boost. I am guessing that this wont work with the 1G?

maft shouldnt do anything about boost especially if the car is running fine, as Ian says it was... He also said he hadnt done a boost leak test yet.. Do that first.. If its holding then Id say wastegate problem.. If the car is running and revving fine it should build boost...

I have spare BOVs if you need, and I have a spare 2.02 maft here .. unknown if it works though...

Cool. We tried another BOV and no differance. I think we will drop the O2 housing to make sure the flapper is working on the WG. We will let ya know....and maybe try your Maft.

Maft won't cap the boost either. I don't see the logic behind it, especially since you say the car runs great otherwise.

Sounds like wastegate stuck open

I got wastegates for 16g and 14b if ya need to try them out...

Did you do boost leak test yet??

You know, that seems like it could be. Because, when I get into the boost with the car, it almost sounds like there is ALOT of air leaking.....like through the wastegate....lol. I will check that for sure. And also a boost leak boys....everyone calm down.....lmao.

Thanks guys, I will go from there and see what happens.

Bad wastegate on a brand new turbo ?

Stop wasting your time and test for the boost leak. That "A LOT of air" your hearing is a big A$$ boost leak.

check your intercooler couplers, and all your vaccum lines...

We will do the BLT first, then check the wastegate.

Very first thing you should have done is a leak test.. especially on a fresh build..

I do a boost leak test about once a month. Prolly more.


IS it a ebay 16g? I have one here, and it has such a gap between the compressor and the housing.. it prolly wouldnt create more the 5psi neither. Mind you I put an mitsi 16g housing on and it fits perfect.

It an actual MHI Evo 3 16g, which is brand new 2 years ago with very few miles on it. I know we have to do a BLT but with the car running so well (other than a few issues) its wasnt top priority. Now, it is.

Seems like the maft (which does control spark for some reason)is a bad idea and I'm going to want to replace it with an actual DSM specific one. I'll have to try yours out Kyle and I'm sure we can work out a deal.

Ill be going SD in my black car so i dont need it.. grab it whenever.. like i said.. unknown working.. can pull the one out of my blue car to troubleshoot.. its known working..

Did you do that leak test yet..?

Did BLT today and massive leak found. Gets over 20 psi easily now. Still going to grab the MAFT eventually from you, I'm still thinking other MAFT isnt designed for DSM and might be causing small issues.

Alright, well I bought a 3 bar map and IAT last week so ill be going SD this week sometime.. the maf and maft from the blue car will be going up on the board.

sorry for the hijack but quick question. what would a huge boost leak sound like? when i build boost i hear a load sucking noise. always chalked it up to faster more dense air rushing through piping. i guess a blt is in order. anyone wanna help a noob in the mississauga area do his first blt. don't want to go to a shop, want to learn to do my own work

Normally it doesnt scream like that lol. although mine was doing almost the same thing lol, the gasket is like putting a blade of grass between your thumbs and blowing.. Had to get my j pipe flange milled flat..

I made my own with an air tire valve, a gauge, fernco plumbing rubber, and 2 inch plastic cap from crappy tires plumbing section, has been working for 2 years.. Slap it on your turbo, and pump it with air till you build 20 or so lbs of boost on the gauge, or till you hear / see / feel the air leak.

time to contribute to you. that is not a 1.7 maft. there is no such thing. what you are seeing is the circuit board's rev number. same as mine. that makes it a version 2, therefore follow the version 2 instructions, i have a link at home i'll post. and for some reason it does affect boost. albeit indirectly but was messing with mine and car would not enter boost in first and wierd in second because i didnt have my aux and base set right. they basically tune for injector size. for a 2g with 450 injectors its aux - 4 base - 2
off the top cant remember what it is for a 1g, again will check chart when i get home. after getting the base tune right and leaning out the lower end of my rpm band a smidge the car is like night and day now. doing it blind with no logger or gauges so dont want to go any further for fear of blowing something out but it's amazing how well it works with just base settings. if anyone wants to rent or loan a scan tool hit me up. and op i've read and tinkered for hours to get mine where

it's at and i feel like i have a pretty firm grasp on tuning these things now, so if you want some help hhit me up

That sounds like a west coast gangsta horn

Thanks trevor, we already figured that out about the maft.
Ian came and looked at the 2 i have, and they are the exact same his.. 2.02 or something.

I think i have to dial mine in a lil better. Car stalls when coming up to a stop now, so I'll have to play with the idle settings. It's weird, but it never once stalled when i had the massive boost leak.

Where was the boost leak, was it after the MAF? Maybe the ECU is compensating for the leak and now you're getting the wrong fuel. I'd reset it.

also adjust the maft's rpm based tuning for 3000 rpm and lower. fourth dip switches between maf tuning which is just a base setup and the rpm tuning is more fine. also make sure idle enrichment is off. maybe i dont understand it too well but it was causing idle issues for me. anyone wanna loan or rent me a scan tool?

bring it over Ian, we'll get'er going
They are pretty simple to tune .. should get yourself an SAFC if your not gunna run link. Makes it much much much easier to tune, since your tuning each RPMx1000, instead of idle mid and wot.

Can prolly get you my old one for 100$, I sold to a guy in town, and he hasnt used it, let me know Ian

if he doesnt want the safc i'll buy it. mine has a pretty good baseline tune by feel but i want to lock it down a bit more and need to be able to see trims and o2 readings

Leak was before maf. I'm getting link eventually, just running a peckerhead chip for now. Havent driven the car enough to watch A/F's to see if its stalling because of lack of fuel.