Slotted/Drilled Rotors worth it?
#412674
September 05, 2013 03:17 am UTC
September 05, 2013 03:17 am UTC
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Bryan Lawrence
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I did some reading and from what I saw it seems like they are actually not a great idea and they add that drilled rotors are even worse because they make the rotor more fragile.
Thoughts?
"Old Blue" 91 Talon TSi AWD "Super Enthusiast" 91 Talon TSi AWD Checkout DSMFAQ.com!
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Re: Slotted/Drilled Rotors worth it?
[Re: Bryan Lawrence]
#412678
September 05, 2013 03:53 am UTC
September 05, 2013 03:53 am UTC
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Posts: 3,055 Stanstead, Quebec
Jason Drew
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As Terry stated, it depends on quality, I've had the same drilled/slotted rotors that came with the Baer big brake kit since it was new(5 years and counting), while I have not abused the car on a road course, they have seen countless 100+ mph decels at the track, no cracks, no warping.
I wouldn't hesitate to use a cross drilled rotor from a company such as Brembo but definitely not from some generic ebay company.
1997 Eclipse GST - AWD swapped - TPC - GT Spec powered 2023 - 9.63 - 145mph
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Re: Slotted/Drilled Rotors worth it?
[Re: Bryan Lawrence]
#412690
September 05, 2013 11:40 am UTC
September 05, 2013 11:40 am UTC
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Bryan Lawrence
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I also agree with you 100% but do they actually provide any value. My understanding is that ebay rotors are just drilled, where as brand name are cast to be drilled. One of the main points was look at cars that come factory with big brakes and the fact that a lot of them just use blank rotors. Also the fact that you are actually loosing surface area when you switch to a slotted/drilled rotor so you are reducing your stopping power. Also this: Find me an F1 car as of now that uses cross drilled or slotted rotors. They all use full ceramic rotors and ceramic pads. Are they drilled or slotted? No.
"Old Blue" 91 Talon TSi AWD "Super Enthusiast" 91 Talon TSi AWD Checkout DSMFAQ.com!
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Re: Slotted/Drilled Rotors worth it?
[Re: Bryan Lawrence]
#412693
September 05, 2013 12:09 pm UTC
September 05, 2013 12:09 pm UTC
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Bryan Lawrence
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Terry, In most cases I would agree with you but in this case we are looking at braking effectiveness. Thanks for that Stephen, I was unsure as to how carbon ceramic brakes worked exactly and didn't realize they hot to be really hot to work well.I also hear they are super noizy. If heating would be an issue do you think F1 cars would use blanks? Also a lot of the high end cars at the 24h lemans use blanks. I can't think of a better test of endurance and strength. I think if heat is an issue you need to look at better brake fluid. Also what kind of rotor is this?
Last edited by Bryan Lawrence; September 05, 2013 12:12 pm UTC.
"Old Blue" 91 Talon TSi AWD "Super Enthusiast" 91 Talon TSi AWD Checkout DSMFAQ.com!
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Re: Slotted/Drilled Rotors worth it?
[Re: Bryan Lawrence]
#412696
September 05, 2013 12:56 pm UTC
September 05, 2013 12:56 pm UTC
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Bryan Lawrence
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So are we sure about the gases, from what I read that was more of an issue with 50s brake pads that used asbestos and other things that created gasses and that it was not an issue as much any more. Adherents of gas emission have carried that belief to motorcycles, bicycles and "sports" cars, while all other disk brake users from the same automotive companies have no holes through the faces of their discs, although internal radial air passages are used. Vents to release gas have not been found on railway, aircraft and passenger car brakes because there is no gas to vent. Meanwhile, heavy trucks still use drum brakes because they offer more heat dissipation than disks that would fit in the same space. Railways have never used internal expanding drum brakes because they cause skidding, causing expensive flat spots on steel wheels. Also here is some interesting information, not sure how reliable the company is though. http://www.smothers.com/specials/powerstop.htmlAlso, and this is an assumption, I would think that the Hawk Pads have figured out what bonding agents release the most gas vs what they cost. If they are able to brake at higher temperatures then they have figured out a way to reduce the gas that is released at high speed braking.
"Old Blue" 91 Talon TSi AWD "Super Enthusiast" 91 Talon TSi AWD Checkout DSMFAQ.com!
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Re: Slotted/Drilled Rotors worth it?
[Re: Bryan Lawrence]
#412709
September 05, 2013 02:51 pm UTC
September 05, 2013 02:51 pm UTC
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Joined: Oct 2010
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Bryan Lawrence
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"Old Blue" 91 Talon TSi AWD "Super Enthusiast" 91 Talon TSi AWD Checkout DSMFAQ.com!
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Re: Slotted/Drilled Rotors worth it?
[Re: Bryan Lawrence]
#413993
September 23, 2013 03:54 pm UTC
September 23, 2013 03:54 pm UTC
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Daren Peacock
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I didn't read most of this thread, but the majority of the time drilled &/or slotted are basically to make it look pretty nowadays.
At one time, both helped to de-gas between the rotor & the pad, with the materials they currently use in brake pads, this is typically no longer an issue. Cross drilling was typically done to reduce weight, good I guess if your rotors are short term use, but they are more likely to develop cracks, especially if it isn't done correctly. While reducing weight may seem like a good thing, it also means you have less mass to absorbe/dissapate heat, which under severe braking can be a bad thing.
Both cross drilling & slots will wear your pads slightly quicker vs a blank rotor. For most, a blank rotor will be the best option. If you don't like a blank rotor, get the slotted. As far as actual braking performance is concerned, there won't be a difference.
98 Eclipse GSX DSM82HTA
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