Lol I hear ya Mike and thanks for the tips it's just I plunked my work truck budget into the build I plan this winter to be the last winter she goes thru

Glad to see she's back on the road!

I would wait the full 1000km before changing out the oil. I'm also a bit concerned with your boost numbers. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but with a small 16G you should be getting your full 18psi by 3500 rpm. If you're only seeing 10 by then and having to wait to 5000+ for full boost, you've likely got either a boost leak or improperly functioning wastegate actuator.

Was going to say the same thing. Those spool times are way off what they should be. The kind of turbo that doesn't make 18-20psi until 5k+ is the kind of turbo that is damn near the same size as the engine block...i.e. Not a small 16G.

It's a brand spankin' new wastegate from me, so definitely not that. Turbo is also in great shape. I'd check the couplers, even perhaps the injector seals/intake mani wityh some soapy water just in case, can't hurt and it's good practice to know how to do it.

Although I didn't see mention of a boost controller of any kind. He could simply be running off stock wastegate capabilities (10-13 psi) and spiking at higher rpm. Seeing as Stephan put everything together, I doubt there's a boost leak.

Congrats getting her back from the dead! I hit full17 boost around 4000rpm with evo 3 16 on stock exhaust.

Thanks for the input and we'll wishes boys! Boost leak was done to 25 psi with not even a hint of a leak. New injectors seals new biss screw and seal all new seals on the throttle body too

It is on a brand new wastegate actuator as Gui mentioned but also not hooked up to a boost controller.

Went back to Canada computers with no luck for a battery again this location was out of stock for my laptops battery (current battery is shot and it only works when plugged in) hopefully some better luck tmmw so no chance of logs yet

I also think my exhaust manifold isn't helping with the turbos inlet was ported and my manifold has a hairline crack along one side of the separating fin fp manifold is in the near future

Ah, if you're not on a boost controller then what you're seeing is normal.

Yeah man. It's just boost creep . Like I told you, best solution is to just crank the boost .

Glad to see you are back on the road, as stated by the boys on Alex's post 1000km for breakin.

If we can get enough people I would love to make it happen, just seemed this year everyone was busy. Pretty calm now at least till January Now is the perfect time, nice cold air!!

2 initial logs after finally getting a laptop to log with

Second log was after a tps adjustment

http://www.filedropper.com/log20151021-04_1

http://www.filedropper.com/log20151022-01

As of now i've left the tuning side of things to Stephan as i am still trying to get a grasp of link

As of now just trying to get a hang of settings and logging and been looking over the graphs a bit

Sad to announce something has definitely let up internally in my engine...again

Car stalled while taking off from first once i let off the gas and pressed clutch in...went to start it starts, begin driving notice a lot of smoke at idle color was all 3 grey, white and some blue

Began hearings a thump or knock in what i think is the bottom end...knock is consistent with rpms and is a single knock...thinking spun bearing again

will post a video as soon as i get time to jack the car up...she still starts up and i did drive her home after i noticed the sound

Have you spoke with rainbow?

Shitty buzz. Before you start the engine again, I would pull the oil filter off and cut it open. If it's full of filings, don't start the engine again. You'll do more damage by trying to run it.

Sorry to hear about those issues. I was only once at Rainbow place but i recall Paul explaining his warranty on the engines he assemble...don't recall how many months or mileage limitations.
Hopefully he'll get you covered.

I am no expert on engine problems(i never had any), but it sounds there are several issues going on at once. I doubt spun bearing can cause smoke at idle you're describing. Could it be damaged rod/piston or damaged valves? Jay had similar knocking issue with his bent "weak" 6 bolt rod.

BTW, have you checked your spark plugs ?

A couple things come to mind here: cold weather, small injectors, boost creep, and too lean can easily lead to a spun rod bearing. It can happen this time of the year especially if you tuned it in 20+ degree weather.

Correct Alex, you won't be smoking from a spun bearing, unless it's part of a much larger problem.

Yeah it sounds like there is a lot going on in there at once.

Did Rainbow assemble this engine?

Rainbow assembled the bottom end, along with a used head, which I bolted the two together.

Spoke to Paul yesterday he said to get him a video with the sound since I live in Brampton and its quite a trip for him to come here

As Stephan mentioned Paul had assembled the bottom and top end separately; Stephan installed cam seals and tightened cam caps and mated the head to the block installed head studs

Might I add a mechanic friend came by to hear the knock yesterday and motor was started and brought to operating temp (sound couldnt be narrowed down at cold start) and in that time no abnormal smoke was noticed

And Jeremy thanks for the tip i will definitely do that was also planning to drain oil thru a strainer unfortunately i am going to have to run her again and get her to operation temp to get Paul the video he wants to see seriously praying i dont do any more damage

When one of my rod bearings disintegrated, I drained the oil into a freshly cleaned tray, and there were no visible metal flakes or filings. I then cut open the filter, and all of the filter paper was speckled with shiny metal. I've heard others have found the same: draining the oil may not show you that there's a problem.

If you have an extra oil filter kicking around, I would pull the old one off and cut it open before making the video for Paul. If it's full of metal, he's not going to need a video from you to know that there's bottom end damage.

Unfortunately, while the knocking suggests bottom end damage, the fact that you're burning coolant (and may have been for a while), and burning oil, suggests an issue with the head gasket.

I'm not so sure it was burning coolant, because he came over by Deep's shop once, and to both of us it just seemed to be condensation, no smell or anything.

I'll be opening up a shop in a few months with a dyno and several hoists. If you can wait till spring, I will build it and tune it for you.

I will be getting back into the game full time building race transmissions and engines for various imports and will be offering dyno/tuning services

I will be the first in Canada to be building full race transmissions for DSM's, Evo X, Supra V160/R154, and Honda K series. Stay tuned.

Congrats Reza!
I will probably kill my trany by then ...so i'll stop by

This.... Made me really happy.

Congrats Reza

Wonderful to hear Reza!
You will have me covered on my current project an my future project!!!
New thread to discuss details?? Location?

Yay Reza!!! Ajax I take it?

Awesome!

I'm looking forward to using your services when you're all set up.

Keep us posted.



Manny, sorry to hear about your ongoing issues. Although I will say it's the name of the game when you mod. Hence why it's important to have deep pockets for these type of situations.

I hope rainbow is able to help you out on this one m

Shoot sorry Manny, didn't mean to get off topic.

I will make a separate post in the commercial advertisement in the near future. It will be in the GTA area.
Now back to Manny's issue...

No worries Reza lol its not a thread on ca.dsm unless it gets thread jacked atleast once

I'll cut open the filter in the upcoming days

Any updates ?

+1

No unfortunately been swamped with work and family obligations...hoping to go over to my buddies who loans out his tools tnight or tmmw to grab all the stuff i need plus a jack and putting her on all fours

I have though in the meantime ordered new standard size an .025 oversize main and rod bearings from extremepsi...that sale price was too good to ignore (i paid $210 for the same acl race bearings from Magnus for the prior rebuild)...may return what i dont use or was considering giving ziggy/paul a shout to see if they would want them since if i recall correctly when i was rebuilding they did not have all of em in stock

Gonna put her up on jack stands before the weekend hopefully and by sunday have the filter cut open and maybe even drop the oil pan

Shes sitting for the winter indefinitely now and im almost glad about she was put away in the garage literally the night before the first snowfall (guess the big guy above agreed with a handful of members in here that i should park her for the winter)

I have a long list of things i hope to complete for next season but for now ive got to find a new daily (looking at used chevy colorado's as a work truck is needed too) and figure out what went wrong on the dsm but as of now im still kinda bummed about the situation and tryna get the motivation to work on her again and work stress isnt helping holidays couldnt come sooner

Some things i hope to complete for next season is
-battery relocate to trunk
-double din install with a small sub woofer
-new handbrake shoes and cables
-all new oe motor mounts (may run solid roll stop)
-try to correctly line up fenders and hood
-potentially do a fuse box relocate to glove compartment and wire tuck
-install all 4 coilovers (only put front 2 in in anticipation of going back to original for winter)
-get gauges wired up and running

Well keep us updated!!

Just saw this now and I am sure there are a few people that would disagree with this statement, myself included. The only time deep pockets has helped me is when I was fixing issues caused by previous owners. It's statements like these that give DSMs a bad name.

Lol WTF do you mean? Manny isn't the first owner of this car which is why my statement makes sense.. Although that wasn't my point.

It's common sense.

You mod.

You pay.

Performance mods =breaking sh!t. Hence you pay.

You're over thinking it

Yeah but most past owner stuff is ironed out in the first 6 months.

After I ironed out all my issues I have successfully modded without breaking sh!t.

Maybe I am overthinking things, but I also don't think generalizations like these are warranted.

I warrant my foot in your ass

Doesn't your car still have those rust holes and in need of paint? Also it has the boost leak and isn't really putting down power right from what I recall.

Not meaning to be rude or anything, but just that from what I remember it needs more time and money before all the issues are ironed out and it's running perfectly.

I think Mike means both breaking parts from beating on it as well as the higher level of tlc required with performance/modded cars in general.