Looks like a fun list.

Jason Drew has a tig and does powder coating, so he can do your valve cover up for you.

Why COP? The factory ignition system is incredibly robust; your goals are not even close to a stress for factory coils and NGK wires.

More for looks and price was right.

And now I have spare ignition system. parts will eventually be hard to find.
Same with PTU. I bought a second one for 15$. Spares!

Chuck "DSM parts hoarder" Lavoie

Won't need PCV valve and check valve with a proper catch can setup.
Mike brightside or Jason Drew will be able to help you with the valve cover and can both make it pretty after. Also what's your plan with the valve cover? why three?
I would raise the price of the COP a fair bit because you should have a booster in there, as mentioned many times stock system is good for 500hp+ so you are just throwing money away for anything less than that.
I would go with the 16g for quicker spool.
Ziggy has AN pump to rail kit so you can see what the cost is like.

Jack's PCV



You are correct. Forgot about the booster. I will leave it for last.




I had a turbonetics small 16g. It is a very snappy turbo. I need to find something that will replace the SCM61 during downtime without much radical change to plumbing (oil).

Ziggy will be by go to guy for new parts.

Thanks for that Charles, very interesting read on PCV.
I currently only have one side of that equation with only vacuum when punching it, I would love if I could find a similar setup like that but going the AN route, I think for that I would probably throw check valves in each of the lines and have a -10 or -12 into the intake plenum. I would prefer that route cause not a big fan of all the lines he has running in those pictures.

Any of the FP green/red/black would be a good replacement and they are sale right now, plumbed exactly like any MHI turbo and are robust.

I had an old SCM5031 and the FP spools faster and have more top end, personally I wouldn't bother with rebuilding it unless the price was very decent, I know some rebuilders won't even touch those turbos as they are very common for thrust bearing failure.

I run two -6an lines from the VC to my can and a -8an from the can to the intake pipe, can collects quite a lot of crud, oil never smells gassy or given me any issues.

Another +1 for Jason Drew's work. I got a valve cover from him and it's beautiful, with two -8an fittings up top and powder coated.

Also, is going with that aem fuel rail for asthetics only? Because the stock rail is plenty, and the Magnus one flows the most.

There's a few members on this board that have such a hoard of dsm parts, it would make your head spin

I think I have something like 5-6 coil packs in my basement.. After I sold a few!

Pretty much everything my buddy used on his 4g swapped Civic came from my hoard and it didn't even make a dent. Other than a new head gasket, I don't think he bought anything new.

I keep trying to give him parts just make room for me parts lol, it's a viscous cycle.

I agree that the 3 line one is messy. I would run 2 back toward firewall with catch can + PCV should do.

FP turbo is nice, wonder if the family would question a turbo under the xmas tree from Santa. The exchange rate will kill.

I have full boost (26psi) between 4900 and 5100 RPM which is decent for a huge turbo

I am trying to make it pretty under the hood. So some stuff is aesthetics. Many of my wishlist is only based on someone selling stuff in classified at low price. (part outs)

I may not make all of it.. but it's a target. Again, assuming good compression.

Jason, I will have work for you next year should you want it.

No pcv valve on mine, it's pointless unless it's plumbed to the intake manifold or somewhere that sees boost pressure.

Well with the current sale at $799, even with the exchange, it's less than what I paid for my red.

I see 30 psi by 4300-4500 on my red, which I think is great on a 65lbs/min turbo.

I'm always open to jobs.

I know that's what you meant

No I meant boost. It's a one way valve and in the stock configuration, it needs to close when the IM sees boost, otherwise it's going to go into your crankcase. With a catch can setup that only gets its vacuum source pre-turbo, it never sees boost pressure, so the pcv valve does nothing but create a hindrance to flow in the line.

Oh my bad I thought you just meant if you were running one line not both, I got you now.

So I can place catch can on firewall and move the PCV connection to the catch can (with a line leading to pre turbo instead?) (just put rubber cap over intake nipple for PCV)

No check valve would be needed as would never see PSI. Just -HG at all times.

Pretty much.

I would make sure it's a good rubber cap and RTV it on there. I blew one off and blew a hole through one before I drove a slightly too large bolt in the hole, that never came out.

Finally: Compression Results (6 bolt)

155 - 145 - 155 - 160

85% of 160: 136
Standard 161
Service 120

Tis' the season to spend money. I have been waiting for double digit weather as the garage has no heater.

2016 work plan has shifted a bit. Here is this month's work plan.

April Order:

- New shifter cable clips (lost one on way to storage)
- Shifter Base Bushing Kit + Short Throw Shifter Kit

- PCV Delete + Catch Can

- New fuel filter + FuelLab AFPR Kit + ProSport FP Gauge

- Meth Hose and Jets
- TB Shaft Seals

- Exhaust Gaskets (Head to DP) (remove all leaks)

- ECMLink V3 Full (Upgrade from Lite)

- Cold Air Intake

Like This Box but with ducting leading to intake box instead of missing headlight.


Or Externally


Because I plan to run venting to my front brakes later on, will most likely move air filter out as I need the vent from front bumper to lead to brakes.

- New K&N
- Timing Light

Followed by lots of tuning.

-------------------------------------------------------------

May-June Work:

- Oil Cooler Kit

- 0/1 Gauge Wire.
- YellowTop Battery
- Fuses, Breakers, Distribution Blocks

- Strut Tower Rust Repair. Jason D. You do this kind of repair?


And this is where it gets tricky with a bigger lump of cash to tackle 1 problem. I need to choose between:

#1. Making more power up top with Cams (272/272 or 280/280) w/ Beehive Springs and Revised Lifters
(I'm running out of steam at 6400rpm) (this may get better if I fix boost leak at TB shaft seals and Exhaust Leaks) I can't seem to flow more than 42-45Lbs before it starts to fall off a little.

or

#2. Get a big brake setup (Wilwood or Cobra. Leaning to Wilwood for ease of pad changes). Remember, I have a 1 piston brake and smaller rotor on the front passenger side.

-------------------------------------------------------------

I have 2 other major things I want to take care of, but I am putting off.

#1. Transmission Rebuild By Jack's. (Our dollar is too weak for this)

#2. Rad Support Front End. I really should get this done, but my fab piece is working well.

I am also concerned with Cylinder #3. It's the only one below 155. (By 10 psi)

That is all. Looking forward to start working on Bixley again.

Reza @ Dynotune! Local trans build!

Charles wicked progress!!

Doing a great job staying on track! Reza is the place to go!

Why not teach yourself to weld and fix the towers.

I have not read about this! Thanks for heads up.



Now that you mention it, some body shop would charge me 500$ to fix it. Could get a little welder and learn. Long as I don't set the car on fire! Suggestion on a welder to get? Newbie willing to learn.

I will definitely be buying a powder coating kit this year also.

I am very happy with my lincoln 140, I just ran out of flux core so going to grab some gas as all the guy's say it's the bees knees

Planning to do the same!! The new house came with an extra oven so going to toss that in the garage.
We should start a powder thread and share tips!

I can do it if you want make the 3 hour drive down from Ottawa, it would strictly be the metal work, not final touch up/paint.

If you do it with a mig, do it with gas, flux core is too hot for good results and you'll get lots of burn through, especially if you're new to it. Tig is the best way but pricey and hard to learn. The great thing though is your welds end up almost perfectly flush with the surrounding metal so there is very little filler and prep work to do.

If you never welded.. i wouldnt attempt to fix your towers as a first
project . But I did mine with a Power Fist Princess Auto 110v mig and flux core wire.

Getting anxious.... Thanks Abbas for getting that order sorted out! Something in here should help me out.




Planning next month's order!

Didn't want to upgrade your fuel filter and do AN lines? Some pretty sweet stuff in there, look forward to the install!!

I'm still on a stock filter with and lines to and from the tank, just -an from the filter to rail and rail to afpr. Even with a Walbro 400 it hasn't cause any issues.

All that will happen once the engine blows and I empty out the bay. That will be when everything gets O.C.D. treatment.

I like the black nylon braided lines more than stainless and larger lines aren't really needed till much higher HP (800ish?). They don't get me more HP right now.

The plan is the engine bay is getting blacked out with a few polished aluminum billet accent pieces.

Upgrade Path.
Hit 540WHP (Track ready) (30-35psi)
Wait for stock 6bolt bottom end to fold like cheap suit.
Build New Engine. Hit 600WHP. (Built 2.0 (10K Rpm) or 2.3?) (35-45PSI)
Wait for drivetrain to fold like cheap suit.
Build drivetrain
Move on to bling
Then maybe shoot for 750HP (Crank)

+1 on the Nylon, much nicer stuff to work with, I also find the braided with red/blue fittings so played out it's not funny.

On pump gas you should be ok to 600hp or so on stock lines, E-85 changes the game significantly.

I would go 2.1 destroker or 2.0 long rod. You'll be wrecking more drivetrain parts on a 2.3L. Almost all the fast guys are 2.0

My bets are you'll destroy the stock drivetain before the stock 6 bolt.

With a properly tuned stock 6 bolt bottom end you should be able to destroy a good chunk of the old stock drivetrain before the engine skips a beat.

No progress on the car yet. But I did pick this up while I was up north. Time to practice! $700 cash. 1 full tank and a half tank.

It ate into my budget for this year, but... it will be worth it. (and retains it's value well if ever I decide welding is not for me)

Spool gun and all, you got a nice deal!

Hit up a local machine shop or metal supply place and get lots of scraps, practice all kinda of joints and check out this site for lots of very good guides. http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/

Yeah that's a wicked deal!! Spool gun is the only thing I have left on my list of things I need.

Retains it's value!? You got a crazy steal, you could easily sell each of those tanks for 200 each! I am hoping to grab my tank this week and get to work soon. Right now nothing aluminum needs welding so no rush on the spool gun but if I start to find a few things that do then I will have to grab one.

Make sure you take some pictures and post up your progress!!

Is one tank c25 and the other pure argon?

FYI, don't expect to do any thin aluminum with a spool gun very well, it's more for materials a minimum 1/8" thick so unless you have stuff like that to do it's not something I would rush out and buy.

Thanks for that Jason, I guess I will have to reevaluate when it gets to the point that I need it.

They are both pure Argon. He only welded 1/8" aluminum. The welder was bought for 1 project (aluminum dock framing) and that was it. The two tanks was because refilling was over a 1 hour drive to get. He didn't want to run out mid project.

Thanks for the link J. Will check it out. I found this also:
http://www.gowelding.org/

Now I just need to wire the garage for 240v (downside of the 180. No 120 volt option)

Here is our new Official Welding Thread: http://www.ca.dsm.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=447755

Ah ok, well that's alright! Good call on the thread, I will post some stuff once I get started.

240v in the garage is well worth it and not that difficult to add, in all honesty a 120v welder is pretty limited so it's not really a downfall that it's only 240v.

If I were in your boat I would probably trade in both those tanks towards a single M(110cf) size of 75/25, it'll last you a lot longer and not much difference in the refill price.

by downside, I just meant I can't just jump into it. I need to do work before doing work and I still need to get a mask, gloves, 240v extension ($$$$) and scraps. Welding table?

Turns out the cart was meant for mastercraft welder. Doesn't fit the Lincoln well. Also only holds a 20cuft bottle.

I wanted to start working on the talon. Not home wiring

So here is a question regarding Meth. Should I use it with 91 octane? or with 94 still? 91 is easy to find everywhere. 94, not so much when you head north.