Hey all,

Haven't been on the site much the last few years, life hit and well it's been hectic, but still have the Talon and still enjoying when I can. New mods got pushed aside for the time being. I know I'm probably with most when we vent about the DSM in a negative way, stuff tends to break, sh!t goes wrong and we all know the story

Well I'm venting positive today lol. I've had the car for a number of years, it was a pretty quick car when I purchased. The owner's best time was 11.98 on high boost (27psi) with a stock bottom end. My best with the same car/mods after a few upgrades (FMIC, Clutch, Injectors)was my personal best of 11.3 @ 126mph. I've wanted to chase 10's, but our 1/4 mile track shut down last year and a long story short my MBC didn't work on the last race weekend, so I was forced to race only at WG boost. I managed 11.8 before I broke the shifter off at over 100mph. Needless to say I was happy as it was only WG boost (19psi).

Long story short we have a new dragway but it's only 1/8 mile. I've been out a few times, it's great but I wanted that 1/4 mile slip. Back to sunday past, I went out to get some runs in, the street car shootout was cancelled, so it was bracket racing, so consistent is better so I left it at WG boost and didn't have much a chance to tune anything. She's running super rich and low timing. My best was a 7.478 @ 93.01mph. My best mph was 94mph. It may not seem like much of a time, but converted this is approx. 11.75 on the 1/4. So still in the right ball park for WG boost, but the fact I'm basically beating my cars original high boost record with my low boost setting is what's putting the huge smile on my face. It's been a lot of ups and downs, but this is a big accomplishment for me as I'm not a master tuner, in fact I suck lol. there's so much more left in the car at WG boost alone, I can't imagine when I get her twisted up.

Our last race weekend is oct 10/11. The last crack at the cat. I decided to do the "calculator" again to see what a 10.99 is approx. on the 1/8. The internet tells me a 6.98 would be in that area. So I need to set a goal, it was always to get to a 10.99 on the 1/4, so now it's a 6.98 on the 1/8 and I'm hoping to go for it Oct 10/11. Sorry for the long post just wanted to have a positive vent with fellow dsm'ers as we all know it's usually a sh!t show VS things working great

Here's a link to my run, (it was bracket racing) I caught him and passed, but broke out on a 7.55 dial in. I wont complain about going faster hehehe

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pS4H4YoTvjE

My slip was a 7.478 @ 93.01mph with a 1.64 60'

Happy DSM'er here, might not be as happy when I got for broke and break something but I'm willing to take the chance after all I bought her to RACE
Cheers,

Jimmers

Thumbs up!

Good 60 foot, however you'll need at least 100 MPH or greater in the 1/8th. A high 6 in the 1/8th should definitely get you into the 10 second range with good driving, or simply just having more MPH. Your tune also might be good in the 1/8th, but could fall off in the back half. You'll need to pick up 30+ mph in order to run a 10, i.e. if you ever make it out to a 1/4 mile track.

I like how you benchmark it. I approached it the same way years ago and got my 10 second slip the way I anticipated it I was trying to break into the high 6's and eventually did it with slicks.


It's good to see your not one of those mid 11 second guys trying to run 9's with very little seat time...

That is a very inspiring post, both here and on YouTube.

My friend went 6.99 1/8 @ 101 and 10.97 @ 131 I think it was, so those numbers are on.

Very nice Jim! What turbo were you running before and what you running now? Where are you seeing full boost.

Thanks Reza!
I know I'll def need 100+ MPH to get there, I don't want it to be easy, but it's basically similar goal I always had for the 1/4. I don't want to set the goal too low and break it first run I had a look at the log from my run and lets just say I think I can almost get to 100 just on tuning, so I'm hoping the extra boost will take it there for sure. When you went with slicks, were they DOT or full on slicks? I'm thinking my car likes some wheel spin so other things don't break lol. What kind of 60's did you get on streets VS slicks?

When I bought the car there was an old school FP Green turbo on it. Owner bought it new, it's approx. 8-10 years on the car and never been rebuilt, I'm still rocking the same turbo. I bought a GT30 on here a while ago, but never installed, sold it again. I like the green, it's spool time is nice and well if it isn't broke don't fix it is my thoughts. It'sa a great turbo for Auto X. I'd have to check on full boost, somewhere in the mid to high 4000 range IIRC.

I use a full slick not DOT approved. Best I have cut is a 1.59 60 foot on the slicks and a 1.60 on street tires. Though I have probably been out more on street tires than on the slicks so I am expecting a 1.4 or low 1.5x on the slicks once I am able to launch the car properly.

Contrary to what people think you are more likely to break something on a street tire rather than full slick.

I think I will eventually be looking at one, I want something that's going to flow more but don't want to have to wait forever for it to spool. Either that or the 68hta

100% agreed, wheel hop is killer, been there.

Good points for sure. I thought spinning without the hop would be somewhat less harmful. Wheel hop I know is destruction waiting to happen lol. Luckily I'm not getting any right now on the street tires. Usually air them down to around 22-25psi.

What's everyone's thoughts on a stock rear vicious LSD with 205K+ on it being able to perform. I know from pics that my fronts spin first. I want to get the evo rear diff otg, hoping that would help the situation. I think I would consider trying slicks once that was done.

Tires make a difference on wheel hop. On the old tires i had, can't remember the brand but they spun and hopped easily, broke one axle and rear diff on them. Now with Hankook Ventus V12's, they seem to just hook and go.

The stock viscous diff takes some spin to get it to lock up regardless, so if you've got good even traction on both wheels it shouldn't make hardly any difference whether it's working well or not. The Evo diff with the plates in the proper order or upgraded plate kit would for sure be a big improvement but not sure if it'll get you off the line any faster than if you have good traction to begin with.