I just lowered my 2G fwd 1.5" and I have a couple questions about the alignment. Is it possible to adjust both the front and rear toe in/out on the fwd models? my manual says there is no adjustment for toe in/out in the rear for the fwd models. If there is no toe adjustment in the rear do you think mine will be out by lowering the car 1.5"? Also what deg. of camber and toe should I be running, 98% will be street driving but I like to play around in the corners sometimes, so I probably want abit of negative camber, I was thinking about -1 deg in the front & -.75 deg in the rear. Would this be a good setup? & how much negative camber can you run and still have normal tire wear? Right now it looks like my front toe is out of adjustment but the camber looks pretty good. The rear looks to have more negative camber which I will buy some longer bolts and washers to fix.

Front camber is not adjustable without a camber kit, but if you’ve got -1º, then you’ll be fine.

For the rear you’ll definitely need to space it out with some washers & bolts. You’re likely at -1.5º to -2º currently. Setting it back to -0.75º would be perfect. Don’t remove any more than that though.

And for toe, you’ll want zero at all four corners; otherwise you’ll wear out your tires prematurely.

Hope this helps.

As far as I know, the rear toe is adjusted in the 2G FWDs the same was as it is in the AWDs. There is a suspension arm called the "Toe control arm" which runs from the knuckle to the crossmember underneath the car (this is the rear most arm on the bottom). The end that bolts to the crossmember has an eccentric cam bolt that you turn to move the arm in/out to adjust the toe.

There is some more discussion about them <A HREF="http://www.ca.dsm.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=000825">here.</A>

It should be easy enough to peek under the car and see if the adjustment bolt and the little washer with the markings on it are there. The manual I've got shows the toe control arm for both the FWDs and AWDs.

You can actually run quite a bit of negative camber without wearing too badly if you keep the toe at 0. -1 front and -0.75 rear is good but probably on the conservative side if you like the corners . I personally am running a little more -ve both front and rear and it doesn't seem to be causing any abnormal tire wear (again, with toe at 0 and rotate the tires at normal intervals).

I've got the 10.9 grade bolts for adjusting the rear camber if you have trouble finding them (most places only have 8.8 grade). Ziggy from RTM has them too from what I recall.

So I guess I'll leave my front -tve camber alone, since it doesn't look to be that bad (not near as noticable as rear -tve) and set my rears to be .75 deg less then the front or no less then -.75 deg according to the previous posts. I'll get all my toe's set at 0, correct? & what about caster, is it adjustable on these cars, if so what should it be set to? Thanks

No, caster is not adjustable without an aftermarket adjustable upper ball joint (which can lead to clearance issues).

I lowered my car approx 1.25" front and 1" rear and ended up with apprx 1.25 deg -ve in the front, and 2.5 ish -ve on the rear. I used the spacers on the rear, but found it difficult to adjust the toe when I reduced it to below 1 deg -ve (you get a lot of toe out when you put +ve camber into the back). I took out some spacers and the toe corrected itself and I'm at approx 1.25 deg -ve on the rear. My toe isn't at zero but still within factory spec (3/32" total toe out in front, and 5/32" total toe in in rear), but I think my tires are wearing quicker. Although, that could also be from the AutoX events I'm now running