I got back a head from the machine shop today.
They took 0.018 off it.
What will that do my timing? Do i have to set the timing differently? Will the timing belt be tigh enough?
If Any one who knows something about this could please explain a few thing to me.
I did a search and found a few posts about this. But i still don't understand if i have to set the timing different?

I had .035 planed off mine and it has worked great. I would have rather got another head but I needed a quick fix. .035 is a lot and isn't probably recommended but I got away with it with no noticeable side affects. Timing belt tensioned fine and I am still running 16 psi with the slightly higher compression with no problems. My motor has almost 300,000 on it and it's holding together fine.

One more consern a reputable shop told me about shaving lots of a "warped" head; The Cams Bearings mignt not be in line no more.

It would be a good idea to have the Cam Bearings "Aligned Honed" to recenter the Cams inside their Bearing.

I don't know if my explanation is clear but posting these few lines for the archives...

Hope it helps someone.

Ghislain.

Thanx Scotty
How id u the the cam settings.. i was reading one of your other posts about this a few people said that the cam angle would be different.. but if you got away with it then it should be fine i don't mind having higher compresion...

Ghislain it wasn't wrped just that i overheated it one day and then two days later lost compression in the cylinders and actually flooded three of the cylinders with some antifreeze.. the compresion blue into the water holes while driving the car and even broke a water hose. It also went between three of the cylinders too
It was a mess.. I'll have it on today see how it goes.

If they had to plane the head .018 it was warped .018.

Ghislain could you elaborate more on Cam Bearings "Aligned Honed", thanks

I never adjusted the cams, hell I never even checked my base ignition timing afterward which would probably be out since the ignition timing is triggered off the cams. Maybe that's why I haven't had a problem yet.

I think you mistook Ghis's point with Cam shaft alignment problem that Scott Pettrie pointed when Scotty had his original post,

the pint was that becase of the shaved head and the fact that it seat lower the two camshaft sprockets will not line up. The length from the crank sprocket to the intake camshaft is a bit more than what it should be.

But what Ghis is saying I THINK is that when the head itself is wrapped, it is wrapped. That means the whole structure is, the tunnel that the camshafts must seat it is not straight anymore. Meaning that if you look through that tunnel from side it is not straight through. so it might need attention

Amin

Yes, the cam bearings are most likely not in line anymore. My head was warped so bad that none of the exhaust valves were sealing anymore due to the seats warping oval LoL. They had to reseat all my valves and wouldn't give me a warranty since it was so fubar. I haven't looked at my cams since and they could most likely be in bad shape, but as I said I have had no problems thus far. I would have expected it to break down by now just with the amount of abuse I have put it through, even if I hadn't had these head problems. I'm probably driving on borrowed time but what the hell...

Oh and as far as timing marks lining up... even with .035 off the head the marks were only off by about half of their width... ie they still lined up but the top of one line was sort of in the middle of the other as opposed to lining up square. It all depends on how your head warped think. Mine curled the outer ends down, with the center being up .035. I think the center of the head stayed where it was supposed to and the outer edges were what bent, so in taking the material off it ended up not changing the cams that much since the center of the head never really had any material taken off(very little anyway). This will vary wildly depending on how your head warped. I don't know if this is right, but the timing marks weren't off by as much as I thought they would be, and the car still pulls excellent vacuum at idle so late valve timing hasen't been a noticeable factor.

I think Amin has given a better explanation than I did or could give.

Hope it helps.

Ghislain.

Hey guys...
I had a few problems...
Because of the head being so warped.. most of the valves were not sealing tight enough to make compresion. I too the head off and i'm putting on a spare today that i've had for a while. I was just saving it for bad times.. lol..
It got a re-surface yesterday and it only required 0.004 i think... but i got the guy to go down to 0.015... i wanna see the difference ant cayuga next friday.. if there is any at all...

and about the ingnition when i move the camangle sensor on the other side i should be able to adjust the ignnition. Right?

Damn.. I am stupid..
I installed a head firiday and it didn't start i though it was because of the leaky valves.
It was because of the camshaft angle sensor. I moverd it on friday, and nothing changed so i took it apart.
Today i had the smae problem. So i played with the wires a bit and it started. One thing that was different is that the camshaft angle sensor was sitting at a different angle that before.
It used to sit almost in the middle. Now it's turned a bit more to the end, (if you're looking straight at it, it is turened more to the left now).

But i still have a bad vibration in the engine.
When it goes over 5.000 rpms it has a very bad sound. I took a chance and revved it to 7.000 today nothing broke. and it sounded alright at 7 but not at 5... weird.

I wanted to make it to meeting today but i didn't have enough time.