Here are my options:
ACT 2100 kit (pressure plate, street disk, tob, alignment tool) $469

ACT 2600 kit -$549

Euro-drive- Little over $300

Centerforce dual friction-$515
Which one would you guys reccomend?

Well pretty simple..unless you are going for huge power the 2100 should be more than fine and close to stock pressure.And unless you plan on tons and tons of drag racing again 2100 is fine.Heck stock clutch might be ok with just stock turbo although mine seems to be slipping with the 14b still on there.But that could just be due to age of the clutch.After all they sell both the 2100 and 2600 with stock discs as an option.

I haven't heard that much good about the centerforce,heard some good stuff about exedy though.

The 2600 is supposed to have high pedal pressure more noticeable on 1gs.

I obviously have some bigger power mods so I went with a 2600.

Pretty happy with my ACT 2100.

Make sure you get the mitsubishi throw-out bearing, don't use the one that came with the clutch.

I'd generally recommend the 2100, unless you have very big plans for the car in the near future.

How far will the 2100 take you? I ordered one for my car, now im wondering if its going to be big enough....

i went with the 2600
the pedal isn't too much stiffer than stock and its really a great clutch i love it and would never consider puttin anything else in

Centerforce Dual Friction
I can't comment for AWD though, mine is FWD.

The key is to break it in for 1000km (no WOT, low boost).
Anyone complaining about it slipping early in its life probably didn't break it in well :rolleyes:

Centerforce Dual friction
AWD, bites hard, low pedal pressure, no fade, hooks harder the more you beat on it {6000 RPM launches, repeatedly}

2600 is impossible to drive on daily basis. Cente force is good and I THINK 2100 should be good.

Make sure the common sense stuff like lubrication and shimmming of the fork and TO bearing is done.

Edit:
By impossible I mean very uncomfortable for my physical abilities to manage in everyday Traffic. I am a sissy used to Galant's super soft clutch. By no means I intended that it is NOT DOABLE!

The 2600 is totally drivable, I've put over 40k on it in everyday driving. Even rush hour stop'n'go driving is fine. But I'm not gonna recommend it for a girl, cause it's probably more effort than you'd wanna put up with The 2100 should be good, but I don't have first hand experience with it.

I remember seeing a photo of somebody who made the same claim of 2600 driveability. They measured and his left leg was one inch bigger than his right leg.

My leg can get a bit tired in endless stop-n-go traffic with just the 2100. I think you'd want to work your way up to a 2600.

Also know that the Centerforce dual-friction being sold today is not the same one that they sold some years ago. It's much more like a 2100 than the previous model.

the 2600 is completely driveable on a day to day basis
its a bit stiffer but nothing that isn't completely manageable even in stop and go traffic

If you want a good hooking clutch thats at home on the dragstrip AND a traffic jam get the centerforce dual friction. Sean, i dont know who told you its like a 2100 ACT that only works untill it gets hot and then slips, or a 2600 thats so stiff AND 1969 Musclecar clutch brutal itll make your motor crankwalk because its not.
Centerforce is old enough to be ACTs great grandfather. Get the Centerforce youll be happy, trust me.

I'm happy with my 2100. I do some serious commuting and I've been happy with it. I do get tired of working it in traffic. My actual leg doesn't get tired, but I get tired of working. Which to me is no different then the stocker I had.

I never said any of that, so how about you don't put words in to my mouth anymore, hm?

Complaints about the old CFDF clutch date back to before ACT started making clutches for DSMs. They quickly multiplied as soon as the 2100 became available and DSMers had a legitimate (and arguably superior) alternative to the CFDF, which up to that point had been the ONLY clutch available. Most people were perfectly happy with the CFDF, but there were a few people who burned them out over and over.

Tests done some years later - by ACT, I believe - showed that the stock clutch was around a 1400-1500 lb. clutch and the CFDF about a 1700 lb. setup. Compared to the then-new ACT 2100 - well, there wasn't really much of a comparison.

Unfortunately, I don't know where that information has gone. RRE has <a href="http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchpressure.htm">some similar info</a>, along with the pictures of Ty's clutch leg I mentioned, but it deals mostly with pedal pressure rather than plate pressure.

Regardless, it was pretty clear that the old CFDF wasn't really the big upgrade that people thought it was, which explained why a few people had really poor longevity while for most owners it lasted just fine. Drag racers immediately jumped on the ACT bandwagon, and they developed the 2600, and (much later) a 2900.

Centerforce eventually noticed, of course, and upgraded their clutches. I believe their upgraded version is now ball-bearing and at 2500 lbs, while the old CFDF was neither, making opinions on the CFDF based on the old clutch rather misleading. The "new" CFDF was Johnny-come-lately to the clutch party and never really caught on, partly because Centerforce never truly distinguished it from the "old" model. RRE sells both but recommends the 2600 for more severe applications, and the CFDF for slightly less demanding owners.

According to the pricing Julie has at the top of this thread, you generally get what you pay for. More money, more clamping force, and potentially more pedal effort. Also, 1G and 2G cars seem to differ for pedal effort, which might make for some of the differences of opinion.

Personally I think the CFDF or 2600 would be more clutch than she requires, which will end up costing her more than necessary. Not to mention potentially inconveniencing her for the next five years or so with an unnecessarily high pedal effort, in return for extra clamping force she'll never take advantage of. In contrast, the general consensus is that the 2100 is a good all-arounder for mildly modded cars and that pedal force is never an issue.

In all honesty, if she's planning on making her car so fast that she truly needs the CFDF or 2600, she'll be spending so much money to do it that replacing a burned-out 2100 will be a fairly inconsequential cost. Plus by that point she'll know what she might be getting in to for pedal effort, having gotten used to the 2100 first. That was the reasoning for my own car and I don't see any reason why it doesn't apply to her as well.