Well finally got the 2.4 and FP3065 in there new home. Now just got to finish installing rest of stuff in the sig and ready to rock and roll.

looks good! What exhaust manifold is that?

Yup, very nice.

Let us know what kind of ET you get with that thing.

Ghislain.

Its the gt manifold dsmparts sells.Big runners,pre drilled for egt. If it don't work out for me getting evo 3 ported. Not a big fan of headers. Oh I painted it silver with 1500 vht paint.

I am hoping to see some mid 11s at 125 or so on pump and 10s on race but it may be next year before see those kind of times. I expect to run like Kevin Kireluk 24 psi or so on pump with my huge intercooler and water/alco injection.

Plan on running likely 20psi only this year and then buying tre or shep tranny with likely 4 spider diff ,possibly new better axles and maybe better transfer case think one company is offering better transfer.

I have spent a lot of money on the engine trying to make it bulletproof or as close as possible to being bulletproof.I regret that the new eagle forged crank just came out as would have put it in there and also regret no kevlar timing belt for the 2.4 yet.Engine has crower rods,wiseco pistons,acl coated bearings,arp rod bolts and head studs,cometic hp gasket,crower valve springs and titanium retainers,manley standard stainless valves and keepers,3g lifters,crower stage 3 cams,no balance shafts,ported oir relief hole and fluidampr balancer.

Hopefully will be ok have read of some crank failures in 2.4 but also know at least two or three guys running them for quite a few miles no problem.

Secret may be not turning the crank.My crank was 20,000 original miles flawless and polished only.
Also my redline will be 7500 maybe 8000 tops.
Not going to get greedy!

My 97 will not be my fastest car ,my twin turbo ta which will be working on as soon as the talon is done will be my fastest car.

The 97 was built to be a street car not a race car.It will not see the track more than a couple of times.

If the 3065 is too laggy for me a FP3052 will be installed but was pretty happy with my RS49 AGP on my 92 talon and it hit full spool around 3800 so figure the 3065 should spool similar on my 2.4.

Any questions guys ask away. Be happy to answer them best I can. Another week car should be fired up and breaking in .500 miles at zero boost is the plan. Oil changes at 30 minutes,100 or 200 miles,500 miles and 2000 miles.New filter each time. Have inline feed filter, magnetic drainplug and filtermag on my oil filter. A bit scared breaking in new turbo on new motor but should be ok with the above safety things.Not much gets buy that filtermag.And the inline to the turbo will stop anything much that does.

Sounds like you did your homework.

Ghislain.

Bit of update.Been working on this darn 97 it seems forever but now almost at the end of the tunnel.

I have only a few minor things to do now before its first drive.Install ecu easy job,install jm fab intake and tb also easy and install front mount but might right a pipe temporarily and run no intercooler for break in.
Expect initial start up in next few days.

Crossing my fingers and hoping all goes well and any new engine and everything else bugs are minor.

I expect a freakin fast car once break in is over and can dial up twenty or so psi.

Here are latest pics hoping to fire it up tommorrow!!

Very very nice Alan. I want to build a motor very similar to that but I am still toying with the idea. What have you done to the head as far as porting?

And what is this 2.4 everyone is talking about?? Did you just bore the 2.0 out? Or is this another motor from another car? How much overbore/stroke is it? (it couldn't have been stroked if you say it is a stock crank right)

PS. What compression are you running?

I didn't go fancy on the head. I don't like expensive heads in interference engines!!

I went with manley stainless valves and manley keepers,bronze guides,viton valve seals, crower springs and titanium retainers,crower stage 3 cams,3g lifters.

Head is 1g head and 1g tb and 1g sheet metal jm fab intake bunged for direct port nitrous.

Bottom end is a true 2.4 not a stroker.Its from 89 to 91 hyundai sonata and is a 6 bolt not 7 and is called a G4CS.

Its got polished 2.4 crank,crower rods,wiseco pistons,acl coated bearings,arp head studs and rod bolts and cometic hp head gasket.I would have bought the new forged eagle crank but it wasn't out and engine was already assembled.I would also have liked a kevlar timing belt but so far they are only out for the 2.0 and 2.3 engines.

The 2.4 gives faster spool up with my huge fp3065 should get spool at like 3800 mabye rather than 4500 type of thing. And it gives much better torque and power off boost and on.It also makes power lower which is better for street car and you don't have to shift as high.

I expect to be scared silly once start cranking up that big snail after 500 mile break in.

Sorry compression should be think around 8.7 to one. Might be slightly higher from cutting block and head absolute minimum.

That engine looks totaly hot. One of the cleanest ones too. When do you think you'll start her?

Thanks for the compiments.
I expect maybe tomorrow .Have a few things to decide.Do I want to put in my intercooler right now or wait a few days since only breaking it in at light boost.And put a temp connection from turbo outlet to upper intercooler pipe.

What do I do with my battery.The battery don't fit anymore .I can get those small odessey batteries but they seem to not have much reserve or much cranking amps.My car is not winter driven and don't have a huge stereo but do have a sub and sony amp. Not sure if an odessy will work.
May still run battery in trunk,bought moroso box but the 2g are not as good as 1g for remote battery mounting.I could use a non track legal trunk mount setup ,my car would get kicked at 11.5 off track anyway and betting it could hit that.
So other than just throwing in my 95 ecu for my dsmlink and filling my trans with fluid thats really all that is left to do.

Damnn tripped and fell hard on my right shoulder and separated it. Hard to work on car for maybe a week to 10 days they said at the hospital emergency ward afer the xrays.

Depressing or what. Maybe with strong enough medication I can still work on the car.Right now it hurts like hell to even type. Why did it have to be my right shoulder and why does my arm hurt the second I raise it even a few inches.

Man even if I had my 97 running now I counldn't shift it without screaming every shift!!

Ouch!!!

That happend to me a few years ago. Was doing some mountain biking and did a "japanese willie" (went over the handle bar).

Landed on my shoulder. Popped out. I pulled it back in, made a big snap. Was pretty painfull.

Took about 3 months before I could funtion normally. I never took a day off work. To stoburn (sp???) for that.

Drug is a wonderfull thing...

Ghislain.

Allan
That is a nice looking setup. That sucks about the shoulder. Firgures that would happen just before possibly one of the best moments of your life lol. I wouldn't worry too much about your car. It will still be there when your arm heals. Let it heal so that you won't have trouble in the future. (i.e. at the track or what not). Either way have fun and tell us all about it when you get it fired up and than again when you get it broken in.
Ryan

Be careful with the shoulder now Allan - for a year you could expect it to pop out easily if you put weight on your arm the wrong way.
It could even come out when you stretch after waking up in the morning. No sh!t!

The motor, I must say, looks very very minty
Nice work!

The motor will be a bit nicer yet have a few more goodies coming for it.
Thanks for the well wishes and compliments guys!

It is like I said ironic as even if got it running today which wouldn't take much at all I couldn't drive it since can't shift right now and not letting the wife drive it either!

Now anyone have any tips for taking off the bumper on my 2g? Why do they want you take the lights right off?That don't seem to make any sense.

It sucks but the light have to come off and the side markers and than there are bolts in the holes for the sidemarkers.

Bumper removal.
10mm bolts along top edge (where the hood meet's)
10mm bolts along bottom edge where black plastic ducting attaches to bottom of bumper.
Licence plate bracket (if you have one on the car.)
Remove inner fender liners.
10mm bolts on corner above side lights.
The easiest way to remove the side lights is to wait until the fender liners are removed then reach around and pop them out.
There may be a couple of bolts under the headlights, it has been a while since I removed the bumper cover for the first time, I never put those bolts back on.
If you get the cover off without removing the headlights, remove the bolt on the bottom of the headlights. this will facilitate removal if you ever have to remove them for any reason.

Thanks Tim...

Wussies, i pop my shoulder out all the time now. I was pulling a transfer case out a couple weeks back and popped it and then another time trying to adjust my master cylinder rod but i also pop my shoulder out sleeping. I've gotton to the point where if it pops out i just put it back in and continue what i'm doing. Surgery is Dec 18th, can't wait. no driving for 6 weeks and no physical sports for 6months.

It pretty much impossible for me to adjust the master cylinder without popping my shoulder. Hence, my car still shifts like crap and i haven't finished the job.

If you really need help, I can come over and break her in for you. Ha ha.

The Talon should pretty much the same as the eclipse. You don't have to remove the headlights to remove the front end. Like Tim said, remove the bolts by the hood latch, remove the bolts from the front half of the wheel splash shields (don't have to take them completely out). Pop out the side markers, then there are 2 bolts on each side above the side markers that attach to the fender, remove them. Next the car needs to be jacked up, look under the car there will be 2 large bolts on each side that connects the inner bumper to the frame rails, remove these 4 bolts and the whole front cover & inner bumper will slide right out. Once off you can remove the plugs that hold the front outer to the inner bumper.

BTW Allan, the setup looks great, shold be a monster once you get it broken in & the boost turned up. Did you go with an external dump or is it routed back into the exhaust?

I currently have external dump but was planning on doing something with it.I was thinking run it more under the car with a little muffler like a supertrapp motorcycle type maybe or can get it run back to the exhaust but would need tig welding I think as will be getting apexi gt downpipe in stainless steel and if you don't use tig it would rust. The muffler idea might work out ok too.
Some guys say they don't mind the dump and some say they hate it .I will likely hate it but you never know I guess .And if do manage to get the car to boost 20 it wouldn't be opening all that much I dont think especially around town!

I am depressed these days as am so close to having the car running and driveable but my arm and shoulder is preventing me from working on the car right now. Hopefully it will be better soon and can get it finished up.

I had mine dumping in my Lazer. WAY to loud when it opens. Not worth the noise. I'd install a small muffler on it if I were you.

I have the front bumper off. I am unsure on a few things. Do most guys lose all the plastic piece that goes behind the intercooler.Someone said to keep the metal part with 10 bolts so the bumper don't look rippled ,the strip that goes on the bottom of the bumper.

Also someone said could take the bumper support out totally but then won't it look funny and then it will only be held on by small bolts not by the bumper support larger bolts?
I do have a very big 10 inch extreme turbo intercooler.I would have to trim my bumper support for sure quite a bit anyway.

I will take some pics maybe right away to make my questions a bit clearer.

The bumper removal wasn't too bad thanks to your guys advice.

No the headlights can stay on the car.
I did the 4 bolts on the bumper support the top 10mm and bottom 10mm like 10 of them on the bottom.

The couple on the side thru the splashields actually one above each side light and one on the edge of the fender at end up high at joint of splash shield.
Also took off metal shield three bolts to get at that bolt above the side light.Needed a lot of extensions to get to that one.

I took off a few extra bolts initially here and there but no big deal its off and that is all that matters!
Thanks guys!

All thr black plastic that is behind the FMC goes, try and aintain as much metal as you can, ie hood latch support stuff. Keep the metal strip on the bottom of the bumper cover to heep the bottom "mouth" from sagging, and when trimming the bumper cover trim in very small amount you cn cut more off, but can't put it back easy.
Try and just trim the fiberglass bumper just enough to get the FMIC to clear, supports the bumper well and gives the saftey factor as well.

Ok ,going to try to trim the bumper support.Pretty sure it can stay on there.
Rodger on the metal bracket for bottom of the bumper.
Tempted to hack off the middle support that goes up to hood latch the intercooler could go back another inch I think but then have problems with the latch maybe?
Was going to bend the power steering cooler tubes but think just loop them.I kind of fubared the tubes up bending them.
So I can get the plastic push in things anywhere or just at mits and how do you take them off most strip in center being cheap plastic.Then wind up wasting them taking them out with screwdriver or whatever.

Also have problems on upper pipe think for sure.Will likley have to order new pipe for that side for my tial blow off but can maybe hack current pipe for temp use.

Work on car next few days now that my arm is much better.

My intercooler is sticking out way too far. Am I supposed to bend the thing where the hood latch goes to.It sure sticks out too much it seems to me.

I managed to lose my installation instructions and they don't have them posted on their website.

I did talk to a guy with identical intercooler and he has gave me some hints and tips .

I guess call them direct tommorrow and get a bit more details.

For the black plastic shrouding that goes around the rad, cut it around the ic core. Its best to keep as much shrouding as you can to help direct the airflow through the rad instead of around it. Obviously with the fmic the rad will see much less flow, & air takes the path of least resistance. No shrouding & the air flow around the rad instead of through it. Some of the shrouding such as the bottom piece you probably can't get to work so its best to fab a new one up.

Did you change the location of you power steering cooling line? I fabed up a bracket and moved mine to the back side of the hood latch support to give extra room.

I was going to move the power steering line behind the intercooler but got kind of rammy and its bent now so just loop it for now.

I might be able to keep a bit of the plastic rad stuff maybe the lower part can dremel away at it and see.

It seems I have to at least hammer in the support to the hood latch or the intercooler will sit way out there and have to trim way more on the bumper support and bumper cover.

I wish could find the darn instructions looked everywhere.

Be phoning the company today to see if can get some emailed or something they werne't great but were better than nothing.

Phoned company and they said yeah to hammer in the lower part on latch support to get intercooler closer to core support. This also minimizes cutting on the bumper cover and bumper support. They said with their cores the extra plastic is not really needed.I do also have dual 12 inch fal fans for cooling.Will get fluidyne rad if have any cooling problems if necessary.

So proceeding with the intercooler install.

Allan, what kind of core did you get? I run the victory performance setup & they to said overheating wasn't an issue. On the factory temp gauge (which is basically useless) it looks to be in the same spot as before. On my Dsmlink I used to see 196 pretty much all the time while cruising (might see 200 on the odd occasion), now I see 206-210 all the time. This is with stock rad & fans. I will more then likely upgrade to a Koyo rad to get the temps back down under 200 (1 deg of timing is removed above 206). As for the fans, the factory ones seem to be good enough. They basically only do the cooling when stopped or moving slowly. Once the car is over a certain mph (can't remember exactly) they do nothing, & its all about how well you airflow is directed through the rad.

I have extreme turbo systems hybrid bar and plate ,tube and fin core. It is supposed to allow good airflow thru it to the rad.I have the dual fal fans and can go with fluidyne rad.No way the fatter koyo rad would fit I am very tight with my dump tube and FP3065.

I worked on car this morning.Finished up my fuel setup.Supra tt pump installed now and 6 an to 6 an filter than 6 an to rail,sx afpr welded to end of rail and some 6 an section on return line.

I installed my 95 ecu this morning for my dsmlink. Turned over key with new small 51R size battery and engine cranked over for second, all lights are lighting up everything looks good.
Base dsmlink chip is supposed to be close to what I need set up for my 950 injectors. I have my maft set to just work the gm maf,tuning will be done thru dsmlink.

Think going to just cut the hood latch support a bit but leave it intact but intercooler should be able to go a bit closer to core.I may try hanging the intercooler to see how it fits with the piping and stuff and worry about the bumper cutting a bit later.

I do think now finally that car can be started up today or tommorrow.And my arm is good enough again that can shift it so thats a bonus.Be sad to hear it run but not be able to drive it.
And no wife isn't driving this car!!

Well buddy helped me get the intercooler all hooked up ,bumper is still off but we figured what the heck.Sinc everything was now hooked up we thought might as well fire up the car.

First we cranked it over to prime the turbo.Already primed the engine on the stand.
Then we put in the engine fuse and tried to start it.
Well I had run it out of fuel I guess when the 7 bolt died on me and just parked the car.
So off to the gas station and went twice as only had stupid 1 gallon jug.
Put in some 92 mohawk and she fired up! She was running pretty bad at first and then noticed didn't have the plug wires clicked down all the way!
After clicking them down it was running a lot better.
We had a few start up bugs.was leaking fuel at billet filter ,tightened that up and the valve cover liked to leak but its fine now I think.
No big other leaks I did buy all new rad,heater every coolant hose is brand new.
Clutch is shifting good no problem going into reverse or 1st both good signs.Pedal feels pretty light not bad. Have hd 4000 clutch.

As for other comments..the stage 3 crowers are pretty lopey.They are basically race cams in a 2.0 but in the 2.4 they should be liveable.It does shake the car a bit at even 1000 and under 1000 it sounds pretty nasty.Like a mini v8!
My exhaust is horrible sounding its the stock system but new apexi gt stuff will be getting ordered pretty quick.

The turbo,well you can hear it sucking air thru my huge k and n and it does run for a bit after you shut the car off. Of course it hasn't even spooled up yet and havne't really got to hear my tail blowoff valve yet or my external dump.

I haven't tuned the car just ran it between 1000 and 3000 for around 15 minutes .Tommorrow will give it first oil and filter change and with luck plate it and fill it up with fuel and over next day or two finish up the bumper and take it for break in drive.Have to set tps,biss, throttle cable,timing,etc. etc.
But it runs and thats good enough for me for now.!!
Its been over year assembling parts and getting this project together and a lot of sweat and worrying and so far at least it seems ok. I have fuel pressure, my water temps were fine..no knocks ,engine sounds just like a new motor should.
I look forward to having the hell scared out of me by this FP3065 as soon as break in over at 500 miles.

I will be asking some more questions in next day or two and want to thank all your guys for your help and support.

I guess first questions for you 6 bolt in a 2g guys.
So I set fuel pressure at around 1000 rpm at like 43 or so. My gauge seems to read like 40,60 ,think mark at 50 hard to get exact at 43 line off but close.
I just have cas in middle, tps is not set,biss is not set..nothing really is set.
So what to set and how to set it.
What order procedures etc. I have scanmaster and will have my dsmlink hopefully working on my laptop very shortly.
I think basic chip was set for my 950s and not sure what else got it used.
My maft is just set to 450 injectors and just using it for the gm maf.
So need advice on setting timing, tps, biss ,throttle cable,think thats about it.

I have to check my engine vacuum also and make sure have the right tial blow off spring.
Thats easy to do no problem there.

Up early today to play with 97.It seems so unreal it actually runs now. Started up fine just heated it up and giving it first oil/filter change.
Everything looking good so far.Oil pressure is good, water temp,fuel pressure. No bad noises.

So hook up my 2g scanmaster today and keep better tabs on engine and figure out how to use my dsmlink.

Expect break in drives next few days with or without front bumper.

Hmm well not doing too good today.Plated car but it don't want to idle and run right.It was running and then stalled and just don't know whats up. I have the cas in the middle pretty sure it was hooked up right.The car did start and run at fast idle when held my foot down on it.
I haven't set idle ,tps or timing yet. Fuel pressure seems to be ok around 43 now with line off.

My dsm chip is supposed to be for 950 fic injectors and my maft is just set at 450 injectors.Also not sure how to set the throttle cable.

Guess have to do more reading on the boards and in my chilton and haynes manual.

Well you do have to set all thoes things...

And check for boost leaks with compressed air!
Chances are something is not sealing right.

Well messed with idle and throttle cable.Car was running pretty smooth at 1000 rpm. I took it and got a full tank of gas and figured since it was running ok might as well do some 30 to 50 mph runs with it.
I did the runs not wot since have 15psi minimum gate spring.
Then seemed my temp gauge was starting to move up.
I drove it home as fast as I could turning on my air conditioning and heater,old trick that helps cool down a car on borderline of overheating.

Then when a few blocks from home lower rad hose decided to blow off! Antifreeze all over my windshield..pretty funny as right then cops were driving by me right beside my car.They didn't stop and I had no hood and no front bumper on the car!!
I parked it instantly when the hose went of course.
I let it cool off for a couple hours and got some tools and stuff to fix it up. I was using those factory squeeze clamps..are they not very good?
I am quite sure I had it on right.I bought new rad ,heater and coolant hoses so stuff like this wouldn't happen and now it has!
I filled it up wiht antifreeze used worm clamps this time and started up fine and idled fine and drove it home. When near home the temp started to climp up again.
I was not being hard on it either.
Now starting to wonder how you are supposed to fill up these cars maybe keep getting air lock.
I filled it full to top and then put rad cap on and car was not running.
I think should have idled car till therm opens and then coolant goes down and then you fill it full is that what I should be doing?
Every car is a bit different.
I am not seeing coolant out back or anything so hoping head gasket and head are ok. I did overheat my 92 and 91 but nothing happened to them either.92 lost a tb hose and shot all the coolant out. 91 lost an oil filter and got plenty hot but every time I shut the car down instantly and towed them or fixed them on the spot. I think if you drive for awhile with an overheat you will warp your head.

I didn't get any fancy headwork done on this car as said dont believe in it with interference engine.So I guess if warped a head just get another one done and move my valves and stuff over to it.
So overall not a great day.