I am seeing check engine lights too and bought a 2g scanmaster but can't get it to work and thought had it wired right.On top of that my speedo is not working now. Maybe just isn't plugged in but sure I plugged it in?

The initial overheating was likely due to air-lock.
You must run the engine with the cap off until the thermostat opens a couple of times, while topping it up, then you put the cap on and the air is out.

It is possible to damage by overheating just once.
Even if you shut it down outside of the red, it could creep up into the red as you stop the coolant flow.

CEL could be anything... Get that DSMLink going!
Was the light on only after you overheated?
Maybe something got wet, or you missfired from overheating and it is a missfire code.
Disconnect the battery neg. for a moment, and see if the CEL goes away for good.

Thoes stock clamps should hold, until you create some immense pressure from overheating.

I agree, get that DSMLink up and running before you go any further. It's an incredible diagnostic tool.

If you have the chip in, it throws a code a set temperature.

I am thinking to check headstud torque on the arps .I have cometic hp gasket with copper spray.surfaces were smooth but no ra checker used cometic test.
You run fingernails across surface and it was smooth it passed if they drag then its not smooth enough.
Not every shop or city has ra tester.

I am pretty sure its not new stat. I can feel the upper hose get hot and it wouldn't if therm wasn't open correct?
Therm is new ,greddy cap is new.
I can't even set my timing since my scanner isn't working.I have to get my dsmlink working with my laptop. Or my scanmaster. One or both.
Stupid scanmaster should work not sure whats up with it but you have to connect to ecu wires and they are very fine and might not be good connection.

As for huring the engine from shutting it down even though it just starts to overheat if that is true this will be my last dsm.
I have had many many other cars with aluminum heads and head overheat worse than this and not warped a head. If the dsm heads warp that easy I am thru with these things.
I put in new rad hoses, new heater hoses, new every coolant hose and used new clamps and figures I was safe. Guess not.

The sad thing is the car is running pretty good other than this and so far no coolant is coming out the tailpipes.
I am crossing my fingers its just head stud retorque.Kevin had to do retorque on his apr studs he was getting think overheat and white out the back and it fixed it for him.

Maybe it will fix it for me.

Oh and the light comes on betting its temp warning light. as it comes on around same time temp gauge starts climbing up.

Anyone run a 2g scanmaster in their car?

I meant closer to the red and you shut it down, it may not be as safe as it seems...
And something else could happen, like cracking.

You don't need a logger to set the timing, as I'm sure you are aware...
On such a large project, finding that pin and grounding it should be a no-brainer.
//Afterhought.... ^^^May not apply to 1G in a 2G? Nonetheless, I wouldn't have started my car without the logger ready for reasons Noah pointed out

You don't set the timing on a 1g in 2g swap like the factory.Read you set it to match scanner readout I think.
I figured my 2g scanmaster was plug and play like my 1g one that have. One power wire into the port and the 1g works.
This 2g goes into the port and then you wire in pin 82 and pin 86 supposedly.the scanmaster says its for several different cars but only shows the one pin code.
I figured it was instant plug in thats why I got it .I doubt it would help my current problem I need to hear from the 6 bolt in a 2g guys.

As for hurt the car so far it wasn't a bad enough overheat to send the coolant out the overflow but the rad hose blowing off was not good but did shut car off right away.
I am not afraid to do another head as said it wasn't a very expensive head and can transfer my stuff over to new head.
But just depressed if have to do that right now.

Well I read that the 2G Scanmaster comes with a cable/connector, and also has a separate wire for power:

The attached cable plugs directly into the diagnostic connector under the dashboard, to the driver’s left. The red wire is plugged into an open slot in the fuseblock to provide power for the Scanmaster.


How do you know thoes are the right pins?
And what kind of connector goes into the Scanmaster?

Rob that is how the 1g scanmaster works.Its simple and no problem getting it to work in my 1gs.
The 2g scanmaster has the main plug.You plug it in and get nothing.Then you are supposed to use pin 82 and 86 I guess and I did. But still nothing.And my speedo don't work now but wasn't driving car so not sure it was working since did the 2.4 swap. It did work with the 7 bolt.
I did connect the plug into the trans for it.

You do need a logger in the 2G. There's no looping wire. He needs to use the grouding feature found in the DSMLink program which is why it really needs to be up and running.

Ok no looping wire..so just ground it..so it will be grounded with dsmlink plugged in if so my scanmaster plugged in might do the same thing?


And yes I realize there is no looping wire in the 97.

I will try to get my dsmlink working right away.

I also from reading realize my cooling problems may be from the front mount.Not sure what can do to fix that.
Get my fans to run all the time think dsm link can make them both run but dont' think dsmlink has any turn on temp settings.

Could maybe wire in adjustable therm switch that came with fans.Could get fluidyne rad if its not any thicker than stock.

I have a feeling that your Scanmaster and speedo not working are related.
2G ecu pinout says pin 86 is the Vehicle Speed Sensor.

Problem is dont' think had scanmaster connected when tried some break in runs and speedo wasn't working.Its plugged in so maybe have pulled wire out of plug or something have to check that.

I can't get scanmaster to work off pin 82 so trying another power source to turn it on.Mike the guy that makes scanmasters says might need different 95 ecu.hope not! Want to use dsmlink and scanmaster.

Also talked to guys that make my intercooler and they said shouldn't have any big cooling problems with their intercooler in daily driving. They said they sometimes only use one fan.
So back to maybe checking arp studs and retorque them today and see if that makes any difference.
I guess after that might have to do compression test to see if head gasket is a problem.

I would like to go factory one if this cometic is messed Not sure if the 2.4 mits that fits the
2.4 gallant will work with my 20 over wisecos or how much boost it will hold.
Hoping the retorque works.

What's the issue with DSMLink? In my opinion you should ditch the scanmaster and get DSMLink working before you go any further. You can log every sensor and view every CEL code.. there is no better diagnostic tool! Sounds like your ECU is already chipped so it should be just a matter of swapping out the EPROM, and plugging in your laptop.

A compression test won't really tell you much, especially with a brand new motor and no old numbers to compare to.
A leak-down test would be far better.

I already have my 95 ecu in the car and its already got dsmlink chip.I have dsmlink already just have to get it on my laptop.
The scanmaster was just for in car 24/7 type of monitoring.
Agree have to get one or the other in there right quick

I am doing a head stud retorque think right away see if that helps the cooling thing.

Anyone with a 2.4 running a mits 2.4 gasket ?

Ok retorqued head studs.Backed them out just slightly and then retorqued took them to 90ft pounds think they were 80 .None seemed very loose but maybe 1 or two would be enough to be slightly loose.
Checked plugs and of course at 5 miles driving they are not colored yet.
I never was even into boost yesterday for the most part as had huge boost leak from pipe coming off.
I was in boost slightly last night.

Next on list is to fix some exhaust leaks on wastegate v band or o2 housing v band.
then change out therm and use my other good oem rad cap.
Try to wire the fans to both come on or even both by all full time either manual or just off key.
I don't like them on if you forget as can run the battery dead pretty easily and I have just have a small 51 type battery right now.

I may order a fluidyne rad if for sure that might help and it isn't a head gasket or warped head problem. The head was fine when we rebuilt it and did only get the rad hose coming off incident once and did park the car instantly.

Assume the best for now and assume get timing set and fuel set and see how it is for heating up.
What should I use for base timing on the 6 bolt to 2g swap and one more time how to I set the timing with my light.I have to just have something in the connector to ground it out.I thought the grounding out thing was for idle in 1gs..you ground out the pin in the engine compartment for timing and both pins for idle setting.
My 2g is weird being 6 bolt in 2swap so Colin,
Tim or Jame C how did you set your timing and also idle and tps.
I assume set fuel pressure to about 43 line off for my 2g correct?

And am working on getting my dsmlink and or scanmaster working as quick as I can.
Buddy has wideband for tuning when car is running right.

Get the DSMlink running before starting the car again, numerous people have told you that in this thread, I can't understand why you have not done this yet, I would have had in it over the winter while you were collecting parts.
Timing 5*, as per the factory service manual, Haynes, numerous post etc.
Haynes/Chilton gives instructions for how to set TPS etc.
DSMlink will lock the timing so you can set, give you your coolant temp, show your TPS settings etc so it is what you need to get up and running now.
At this point you are risking your engine rings not seating properly, and well risking another rebuild.
Like I told you over a week ago, when you start up that car for the first tme you needed to be 100% sure it was ready to go, going out with boost leaks etc just proves the fact that you were too damn impatient to do the job properly.
That FP turbo, 2.4 yada yada, was too much to resist.
You dont need your buddies wideband at this point in time, you need to step back, get DSMlink up and running, and it will tell you what is going on.
Throw away the Scanmaster DSMlink will log EVERTHING it does and more, plus show all your error codes.
You don't need a Fluidyne, you don't need to buy anything more, yo need to get you crap together do it right, and LISTEN to what people are telling you before YOU wrek all those expensive shiny parts you have been drooling over.
You do know that your rings and such seat pretty much by the first 50 mi (100km), and just sitting there idling, out running hot, running rich etc is NOT going to get your ride working as it should.

Ok Tim,not trying to be stubborn. I fired up my old laptop and loaded the dsmlink into it.v 2.05 think it is for now.
I will be connecting it to the car shortly.
I am not going to drive car again until do a few of the things I said either. And still unclear on the setting of the timing. I have a 97 with no wire to jump. And i have a 6 bolt cas.

So just follow the tps adjustment in manual with all that measuring resistance thought could use scanner and set it to a certain percent at idle or something?
Wont that work also?

TPS (at least on a 1G w/ logger) is set by rotating so you get 10% with the throttle closed, and 100% WOT.

Timing, ground nothing and rotate the CAS so that the light shows the same as the logger.
It may be more difficult to get it exact, since this doesn't lock the timing at 5* - but it's much better than not setting it at all.

Ok you guys have to understand I am 48 and not the most computer literate guy you know.
But I do type fast!

I got the dsmlink in the car and hooked it up and it was working but not really sure how to get it show values and stuff have to read users manual or something.I did get it to show graphs and apparently no stored codes.
I am curious to see what my chip has on it thought you can punch it up somehow on the dsmlink.
I really hate the fact the 2g dsmlink don't keep things in memory as you have to disconnect battery a lot to work on the car. I think there is some computetr saver type of thing saw somewhere maybe it will work.
The 1g of course has memory board option.
At least I got scanning right.
I fired up car for a second after the head retorque and its running good it seems.It will idle at 1000 and is a bit lopey but its got stage 3 crowers in there!
It doesn't stall though.
Oil pressure and temp was ok..I do think something wierd with my fans. I pushed in air switch and think fan came on and then shut off after a bit.I am low freon had to evacuate it when did the engine swap so maybe that is reason the air fan turns off and thought both fans are supposed to run with air switch turned on.
My single drivers side did come on as engine temp went up,couldn't figure how to get readout like I said on the dsmlink just yet and didn't have a mini mouse so its harder to navigate of course with fingers on little pad thing.I need to go get a minimouse today.

I have big big exhuast leak..think at 02 housing or tial gate. Will be tightening that up as soon as car cools down.Orderd a mits therm new one already have a new one but just in case.
190 they don't seem to make mits 180 for the 1g therm housing.
I also found coolant overflow had a blockage or something. So that might explain why it wasn't taking or puking any coolant out of there.
I cleaned coolant overflow and fixed up so its not blocked.

I want to set that timning shortly .Wondering why do I need a light if can just watch the timing on dsmlink.I have a light but just curious.

I am trying to get electrical engineer buddy over later to redo my fan setup. Think use the controller that comes with the fans. Then can set them to come on at various temps from like 160 up. So set them lower on summer months and hotter in colder months. The fan turn on and off temps is much more effective of course than a therm change .Therm only makes it open sooner.Fans and rad capacity are really the key things.
I may also buy the manual switch option for my fans for track use or whatever. I need better fan action.
A short test drife might be in order later today or tommorrow once things are checked out with logger and won't be going far from home.Just go close by and try to do those break in runs.Did get some at no boost the other day already..not intentionally low boost but with that pipe coming off.
I guess you have to really tighen up the silcone and tbolt clamps.I never used them before and though you just make them snug.My mistake .Buddy did the other side tight and they are still on there. So unintentionally had no boost yesterday.

That explains why the car was so slow!
I want to somehow pull the chip id off the dsmlink and confirm I have chip for 950s and stuff.
I bought my dsmlink used.

I do appreciate you guys advice just can be a stubborn old goat sometimes!

Its great a lot of you guys got dsmlink so that should be a big plus for tuning my car.
I do love my 2g and do think it will be big fun.

Would something like this work to keep the memory in dsmlink when you unhook battery..can't see why not..
its even cheap!!
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=1383&keyword=memory%2Csaver

Because you can move the CAS to wherever you want and it will not affect what you see on the logger.
It will affect what your actual ignition timing is though.

Think of it as calibration.

The CAS tells the ECU the position of the camshaft, so it can fire the ignition and injectors at the right time.
The ECU assumes that the CAS has been calibrated.
When the ECU says 10*, it will fire when it thinks you are 10* BTDC.
By rotating the CAS, you change when this signal goes to the ECU.

For example:
If you rotate the CAS so your timing light shows 11* - eventhough the logger says 10*, you will actually be at 11*.
The timing light always right.
The logger is only right when it says the same thing as the timing light.


Oh and re. your couplers/clamps...
I've said it before: BOOST LEAK TEST!!!

I need to make a 4 inch boost leak tester..just have smaller ones from before.

I would think since have 15psi spring that if see 15psi at the intake then its all good and only thing that could leak after that would
be injector seals which are brand new and intake manifold to head.

I am reading the dsmlink site now.I wonder if should upgrade to newest version.Do I just burn it to cd and download it to my laptop that way >I can't figure out my modem in my laptop to download it directly.
I would think my 2004 version is ok for right now to mostly log it.
and wonder if that batttery saver would work for 2g guys it says it does??they should just sell them with the dsmlinks.

Understand on the timing now should be able to set that shortly.

I can't seem to just figure out how to get say timing in non graphical form.Want simple readout for timing to set it..so when light shows 5 and dsmlink shows 5 good to go right?

And looks like could set tps to read zero and 100% from watching dsmlink and turning tps.
Not sure if would still have to bother doing the meter thing on the tps.
And looks like just ground idle terminal with dsmlink and set biss screw.Seems to be a good thing this dsmlink! Well you guys did tell me that!

On the DSMlink header when you have it connected to the car it has a "Misc" setting, in that area there is a setting to invert the CAS etc, one of the settings is "Ground Timing", what that oes is lock the timing a 5*BTDC, then you take your trusty timing light out to the car, and rotate the CAS until the timing marks match what DSMLink has locked it at, 5*. Timing set, lock down the CAS and leave it alone.
To see what coolant temps are you need to select what you wish DSMlink to log, such as coolant temp, injector Duty cycle etc.
If your chip is burned for 950's when you open up the fuel window the global should be set for around -55% or something similar, mine is burned for 850's and it shows -47%.
Once you get the car up and running properly the DSMlink manual shows how to set it exactly, by logging your long term fuel trims etc.
There is a way to save your DMlink settings to the laptop, if you cut the power you can just fire up the DSMLink program connect to the ECU and load all the setting's, but what I do is just write them all down on a piece of paper in thr glovebox and it takes about 1min to reload them all.

That sounds simple enough Tim.Great!
But would not my computer saver thing work also?

Ok played with it some more and all I can say is WOW just WOW!!!
I figured out all the stuff you get values for everything in numbers and the graphing on same page.
I turned on both my fans for test will likely set them both on for good as that should help me figure out whats with my cooling think both at high speed should help a lot.Too bad they don't let you play with temp settings on the fans and turn on /turn off like on my v8 tuning programs.Still for now that would work ok.

So see how it all works pretty darn simple really.I am not a total rookie at this tuning stuff did have scanmaster and chipped ecu in my 1g and maft translator.

Well you guys this is a great toy and hoping now to finally get everything properly set.Having timing right should make a big differance right there.
I also see my chip configuration in the windows.I am set for 8000 rpm,950 injectors but dead time is 345 and thought they said 315 in the charg..whatever..Car actually runs not bad right now it idles around 1000 anyway.
And now I know I have the knock light at 5 which is very handy in a 2g.And can set it tweak it..whatever..this thing is great!

Love it. So you can get it on palm also? If so maybe don't need the scanmaster but the scanmaster are still nice to mount and forget.

Too bad its raining out now.I think would try to take car for spin if did set timing and tps and fans to both come on. And having knock readout is great so could back off if see too much.

I have no stored codes either which is kinda weird I think and stripped out egr,some solenoids on the wall..not the fuel pressure solenoid its still there.

Also another subject squealing belts at strart up are usually too loose right? Is there a way to set the belts without fancy tools..Some of my overheating might even be water pump not turning from too loose a main belt.

And to save those changes like fans do I simply hit ok and it puts it into ecu.no making export files or any of that stuff if I don't want to.I could see how you could reprogram pretty quick after loss of battery power. It don't take very long if you mark your settings down like you said Tim.

It's about time you got the link up and running. We all told you so, I can't understand why you would let fear of computers hold you back when you had yourself commited to it. Get the timing right if you haven't already. You might have already said that, but your posts looks like chicken scratch.

Uhhh... don't you have a huge boost leak to fix? Seriously get the known problems fixed before going any further.

As for the belts squealing, they need to be tighter. The Haynes manual has some good info on that stuff. I've had a waterpump belt spin and cause high temps before. Get these basics checked before going any further so we don't have to shake our heads anymore please. I would hate to see you have a disaster after all this.

Noah sorry type very fast sometimes and just throw thoughts out.

Buddy came by and I did a bunch of things on car.
I fixed that loose intercooler hose days ago.

I tightened down tial wastegate and 02 housing
and still get a noise like exhaust leak at idle.
Do external gates with dumps make that noise all the time not just when they open under boost.I have 15psi spring didn't think dump would make that noise.I am sure no other exhaust leaks unless gt manifold is cracked underneath.

We tightened downpipe also.We tried to set timing but it was not working right.
I set the dsmlink to do the wire jump thing but my car is a 97 with 95 ecu and it slowed the idle but gave no readouts the screen stays there the one that says locked idle or maybe had to say done or something.
I went back to main timing screen and it was showing like 15 at idle and we set the timing with the timing not locked to 5 on the balancer.It didn't move the timing dont think on the main timing screen.

We thought it was ok but have my doubts as the car didn't sound great when started up.
The cas was roughly in the middle.

So appreciate some clearer instruction on setting the timing with dsmlink.

We sat and idled the car for a few minutes and coolant temp was fine.
We figured take car for short drive.
We started driving maybe four or five blocks.Temp gauge started climbing and nothing was bringing it down.This was in city a few blocks from my house.I already had both fans running with the dsmlink option but for some dumb reason one fan is acting as pusher and one puller.
We wired them thought right but guess one is backwards.The fals are not plug and play at all you have to use your own wiring or hack the factory wiring. We got the codes off the big boards.But one must be reversed.Still the car shouldn't get so hot so fast in a few blocks.

What the heck.It was not even into boost just normal city driving.

Of course can't carry the laptop with me. And buddy don't know how to work it. So its like I said useless when just driving around without a copilot.
The scanmaster would have been a bit more useful.

So now what the heck. I have a good rad cap oem not old. I got new therm off ziggy..could I have stupidly put it in upside down..Don't think so but would upside down therm cause overheat the second you start driving?

The therm might be sticking but then why don't it overheat sitting in driveway idling why instantly as soon as you start driving it.Within 5 to 10 minutes of driving and not even hard boost.

So back to the head gasket not seating theory.
Car did this every time its been driven. About four times.Each time parked it virtually instantly and tonite we pushed it like four blocks home.

I have new oem therm that could install tommorrow.Still not that confident car is timed right.

So what can make the car overheat that quick.Is a non sealing head gasket that fast and don't it overheat at idle.I guess could have tried to overheat it revving it to 3000 but only seems to overheat moving.It has never overheated sitting there.
Today since I fixed the coolant overflow it shot it all out of that onto the ground.At least didn't blow any hoses this time.

If its the cometic am sick of them and would install mits gasket. But unsure if 2.4 gallant works if engine is .20 over. I am really started to wonder about the cometic.It was intalled at machine shop.The studs didn't seem very loose at all today and I retorqued them this morning anyway.

I still see no white smoke at all.I guess it wouldn't be end of the world if had to take off head and do a new gasket.

I also did tigthen my belts tonite and that stopped the squealing.

Could my timing still be out make the car overheat driving in 5 minutes or so?

Can I do any tests at home to see whats up. I have buddies at garages but don't want to drive it there and dont' want to tow it .
Have had really bad luck with tow trucks.

I am getting back to thinking of selling my my 91 laser,97 talon, 99 trans am and 80 trans am and buy a vette and leave it stock.I never have anything like these problems with my v8 cars. I have worked on v8 cars my whole life.

The Dsmlink has not shown one code but did get a light right when it started to overheat assume an overheat warning light. Not sure if the code is even still in memory.Can see tommorrow not looking at that car anymore tonite.Too mad at it.

I can't even break it in decent when the temp shoots up so fast.I really thought having the fans running even if the one is push and the other pull would work fine. I had no fans running last time just the one cutting in at 210 I think.

Coolant was full and everything looked fine..oil pressure everything.

Yanked thermostat this morning.It was not in upside down.That dot on it should go near 12 oclock or it won't sit right in there correct? Not sure had that right.Also does the plastic ball go into the groove or not?
I can't seem to slide it into the groove it just sits beside it.

I have another new oem therm on order and should be here and in today.

I know now how to set the timing will do that too.

And guess if its still overheating after that pretty much has to be head gasket.May try to get it to buddies shop to test things and then if have to redo gasket so be it.

But still want to know if you can use a 2.4 gallant gasket in my 2.4 .020 over build.I would think no problem there.

Ok finally some good luck!! I installed my new oem therm to replace my other new oem therm.
My original oem therm is fubar! Yes sticking closed erratically it seems. I took car for a much longer drive and it was like 26 or 30 today and it never went past half or 200 or so degrees on dsmlink! Had tow fans running but one is reversed still.

Sticking therm!! I tried to set timing but my timing light won't flash right for some reason on the 97. I just set it not retarded a bit past half and it seems to be running decent enough.

Its not like am going to be putting 30psi thru it.I was content making some break in type runs 30 to 60mph at half to 3/4 throttle today.
No overheat and it was great to finally hear the fp3065 spool up. It was great to hear my tial blow off and haven't heard my dump yet of course and won't likely until hit 500 miles.

I have a few things to get fixed. Small oil leak possibly oil pan gasket maybe.Whatever will fix it on overhead at buddies speed shop.Not going to be laying on my back under the 97 much anymore just for oil changes and othe minor things.

So you guys can feel free to ask away on stuff.
I am very glad it appears no blown head gasket or warped head.Will do compression likely at 500 miles or so. Expect it to be good.I will be conservative with boost like I said this year.
Doubt go too much past 25 max if my 1bar spring even lets me get to that.

The dsmlink is pretty easy to use but I find my version kinda buggy or clunky .I will have to upgrade to the newest one and dsmlink 3 should be a lot better.

Course I have no mouse yet so that makes it a lot harder to navigate and stuff.

Gonna get me a nice mouse likely cordless if have the right port for it on my old dell.

Oh kind of still need an order to do things.Do I try to set my idle speed first then my timing?
Can I set my tps without a meter by using dmslink and looking at position or tps voltage?

I tried to set tps today just set it to read zero for now at idle is that right or should it read like 10% like 1gs at idle?
I didn't go 100% yet.

And not sure how to set the idle .I realize you can set it to be locked in dsmlink but what then does target idle do and what does the biss screw do and how does the isc get reset?

Remember I have a 6 bolt in a 2g here.
I think need to set idle around 1000 for my cams.They lope a bit much under 1000.But confused with biss,target idle and isc.And seemed to start surging when had think tps set to zero at idle.

Get the link to lock your timing, I think I read that there's an option to do that.
Set the CAS so the light matches whatever the ECU says. Don't worry about rpm.

You can set the TPS with the logger alone.
I would think it should be like a 1G (10%-100%).
You set this with the engine off and key on, so there's no reason you can't check 100%.

With link, maybe you can lock the ISC to set the BISS, instead of the ground loop?
So you do that and set the BISS so that your rpm on the logger matches what you set in link.

Careful adjustment of the throttle cable and idle switch (if equipped). You must not be holding the throttle open at all, but you need the idle switch signal. So there's a small margin to play in.

Thanks for the continuing help Rob.
I got buddy with light that worked on my car and we locked the timing and set it to 5btdc.
So that is done.The dsmlink has a thing to jump the ecu pin so you don't have to do that manually with alligators. We did that abd set the idle and the car purrs along at 1000rpm.

I set it to 1000 on dsmlink.A touch of lope from the stage 3s but very nice I think. Enough to give fair warning to the honda boys!

I set the tps to show 0% at idle and never thought about opening with car not running will try that. Anyone else set tps on a 2g with the logger?

Anyway buddy came by.We set both fans to blow properly one was reversed. We did professional soldering heat shrink whole nine yards no mickey mouse.

The car is not overheating and was stable at 200 degrees per dsmlink even giving it some boost around 7psi or so.And few runs from 30 to 60.
Car is purring and everything was looking aces..oil pressure,coolant temp etc.
But then heard a strange noise and car went dead.Flooded I think and didn't want to restart.

OH OH ..time for CAA!! and the thought of flatbedding my baby with the new intercooler on it and no front bumper was scary!

Some nice guy came by and gave me a boost but it wasn't my battery.Car just wouldn't start and finally it sounded like it wanted too and then it did and it threw a bunch of codes.

I got it to stay running and we zipped it home..easy to zip it home the twenty blocks or so with a FP3065 even at 7psi!

Now here are the codes. Dsmlink spits out the descriptions as well.
There were three showing and not sure if you have to scroll or something.
They are 0302 which is cylinder 2 misfire. I had to use two old plug wires and two new ngks as my coilpack is a bit too far away. Possibly number 2 is a dud!Think hear a misfire so it could be true.

Next code 0420 cat efficiency code and
then code 0130 front 02 sensor code.
Now the 02 sensor is new. Brand new mits .Hope it works better than my first mits therm..and Ziggy not holding you accountable for that dud mits therm even though it could have killed my new engine...just give me a big discount off next order.

Kidding Ziggy !!

Anyway also been hearing some weird rattles under car .My theory..cat converter is pooched. It maybe fell apart and is blocking exhaust. Car died after running perfect and did hear a kind of weird noise down there.
So clogged cat..engine dont' like to start.it can flood ,idle crappy even overheat.My theory the cat died for the overheats that have happened lately or maybe the fP3065 put out too much heat for it or something.
Feel free to jump in with your theories and this clogged cat maybe caused misfire and made o2 throw code ?
No idea just reaching.

But the car was running aces before this codefest.
Aces!
I was planning on dumping these crappy wires for COP and likely aem ignition amp.The msd is option but hear they are not reliable anymore.

And was planning on apexi gt with no cat and gt catback and dump the resonator etc. So just have to push those plans up a bit.

I can test by dropping cat at downpipe.it will be a bit loud but hey whatever!
And can bang on cat to see whats up or hollow it or simply jump it for now at muffler shop.I have spare 02 from my 2g that was working if current one got pooched.Hope not it was another brand new one!

So thats the deal.Also starting to hate dsmlink the old version I have.All it does is give error messages ,it does work though overall and is a good setup and hope the new dsmlink version is much more bugfree and a bit easier yet to use.I will try to download the newest dsmlink version for now.

I do want my scanmater in the car at all times though as you can't legally drive around with a laptop in your car unless you are a cop!

So anyway the talon is running much better overall with the timing set and everything is working pretty good.
And a 2.4 with an FP3065 is a very wicked combo and very streetable with boost even with my crappy factory exhaust with likely pooched cat happening at 3000 for intial spool. Bet it might start spooling at like 2800 once get a real exhaust on there.

Uncheck the O2 sensor, it will stop checking your rear O2, you don't need it anyways.

Then uncheck the cylinder misfire since you have a 6 bolt in your 2G. That will ignore any bad signals on the 1G CAS.

I have the emmission stuff unchecked on mine as well. That's your call. I think I unchecked the idle control but I can't remember. It was 2-3 years ago I did all this.

As for the idle, turn that sh!t down and let the cams bounce! That's the best part of having high degree cams! It'll sound like your V8s that you rave about all the time.

EDIT: All this can be found in the the DSMLink forums.

Ok but I hear a misfire so think I have a bad plug wire on number two.Its a crappy old wire.I had to use it to reach my coilpack location.

I am ordering think COP today and new crane box.Much better than msds and less money than aem ignition box.

Also be ordering my apexi gt downpipe ,catback and active silencer right away.No cat of course.No emissions testing in sask yet.

I have cat and rear o2 right now.My exhaust is bone stock.So that code is likely showing badly failed,clogged cat.It would explain my exh man getting extra hot, my weird running,sometimes erratic idle.Car is not that fast even at low boost like it should be. And the code is front 02 that I am throwing and as said its brand new mits o2 and yes its plugged in ,harness is tied out of harms way etc.
So betting the clogged cat is messing up the o2 reading from exhaust restriction.Or mabye from the misfire.

There is a difference of course from getting random misfire codes and actual misfire.I have an actual misfire can hear it.
I have 93/94 black top cas also on the car.

I have to download that new version of dsmlink.My old version works but is annoying to use.Will mabye do that today.

As for the cams yes they did sound extra mean at 850 but again think the clogged cat is making idle strange and car wants to stall if try to idle it down.

I will likely idle it down after get that problem fixed.

I do have a super lopey cam in my 80 ta so not like I don't like the sound.
My stage 3 crowers would be very lopey in a 2.0 but the 2.4 mellows them down.Could have went stage 4 or 5 or bigger Fp cams but am satisfied with my combo so far. No complaints with clutch,
turbo, 2.4 ,nothing. All great.

And side note.Get no vibration thru the range and took out balance shafts,have energy suspension rollstop inserts with stock side rubber mounts.
Use fluidampr balancer very very nice piece.It seems to really damp out any vibrations since other guys said their 2.4 were a bit vibration prone.
.

I did not spend a cent on balancing crank, nothing not a dime.

I also ported my oil pressure relief valve and dont' see any crazy high oil pressure either

I doubt it. Why don't you use DSMLink to log your front and rear O2 sensors to see what is going on before you throw more money at it.

If I still have my cat in there why would it be showing cat problem if there isn't one.And just said car has every symptom of clogged cat.Seen the same symptoms in my 91 turbo and buddies turbo camaro.
Its no big deal was going to install apexi system anyway as obviously the factory system is going to choke my big fp3065.
Instead of getting it in a month just get it right away.

I can log the o2 though and see whats up after at least cut the cat out of there.

no exahust would choke a engine that is idling or not underload.

just a friendly suggestion, you keep chaning parts and therefore adding more variables to the problem. Makes it harder....

Unless you are really loading the engine, which I think you are not due to break-in, I wouldn't blame the cat that easily. And if you cut thecat, the second 02 sensor wouldn't read anything.


The initial burn out or oil could have clogged up the sensor(s). It could be permanent or most likely will just burn away. Again not mine, but if IT WERE ME, I would LOG FIRST, CHANGE PARTS AFTER.

You are not 100% correct there Amin.Buddies sts turbo camaro idled terrible and barely ran even just driving it around.It wouldn't rev very good and it had no power.I have same symptoms.For a 3065 even pushing it not very hard at all the car is slow.Its not the tune.
The base tune is close enough it should run fine.
I am not throwing parts at it at all. I rebuild the motor as strong as I could .I put on the new turbo and full support in tuning,fuel, everything but exhaust.
Time for that now. A stock 2 inch is going to choke a big turbo at pretty much every rpm and load.
I will bet money that my cat is screwed.It is the only thing that accounted for my current problems. The dsmlink has already said there are problems with the cat.And the o2 it might be something else..not rich fouled ,there is no oil in my plugs no oil out the back of the car at all.
I did get some coolant maybe in the o2 plug so it might need to be dried out.
That might account for the 02 code.Its front o2 not back.
Actually the cat code would be from the back o2 reading weird.

I will unbolt downpipe for a test or just take car to muffler shop and cut off the cat its cheap to do that.

Now think give Ziggy a call and get my apexi stuff coming!