Dynatex RTV Silicone Sealant is a paste-like, one-component material, which cures to a tough, rubbery solid upon exposure to moisture in the air. Formulated for gasket making applications. Sensor safe and manufactured to meet OEM specifications. Makes instant, leak proof gaskets for all engines, drive train equipment, and related components. Resists oil, water, anti-freeze, and transmission fluid. Works on all vehicles.

Dynatex RTV Silicone Sealant has good resistance to weathering, vibration, moisture, ozone and extreme temperatures. It may be applied in sub-zero weather without loss of extrusion or physical property characteristics and is effective to -35C (-30F). Fully cured Dynatex Black RTV can be used for temperatures up to 625 F (343 C)

USES
Dynatex RTV Silicone Sealant may be used for:
Valve covers, oil pans, transmissions pans, rear-end housings, timing chain covers, thermostat housings, water pumps, and oil pump flanges

HOW TO USE
Applying

Tack-Free Time: Dynatex RTV Silicone Sealant is supplied in ready-to-use form. It flows readily from its container under pressure. A spatula or wooden paddle can be used to tool the surface.

Cure progresses inward from the surface. At conditions of 25C (77F) and 50-percent relative humidity, a tack-free skin forms within 20 minutes. Tooling should be completed within 5 to 10 minutes of application. Alternate periods of application and tooling may be required. If masking tape is used to mask an area it must be removed before the tack-free skin forms.

Cure Time: Cure time is affected by relative humidity, degree of confinement and cross-sectional thickness of the sealant. Sections up to 1/8-inch thick become rubbery solids in about 24 hours at room temperature at 20-percent relative humidity. More moisture content reduces cure time slightly. In 24 hours, sections up to 1/8-inch thick cure to a rubber with a Shore A Durometer Hardness of about 20 points. After 3 days at room temperature, this durometer hardness levels off to about 24 points.

In applications where Dynatex RTV Silicone Sealant may be partially or totally confined during cure, the time required for proper cure is generally lengthened by the degree of confinement. It is possible that with absolute confinement cure will not be completed. The result is the softening of the sealant at elevated temperatures. Metal-to-metal bonds should not overlap more than one inch. Every application involving confinement during cure should be thoroughly tested before commercialization.

Curing time increases with the thickness of the sealant. A 1/2-inch cross section, for example, may require 3 or 4 days for complete solidification. However, the cure will have penetrated the outer 1/8-inch in about 24 hours.

Adhered to glass, metal or most woods, Dynatex RTV Silicone Sealant has a typical peel strength of 20 pounds per inch. After 72 hours at room temperature.

An odor caused by the liberation of acetic acid is given off during cure. This odor disappears as the cure progresses and is not detectable after cure is complete.

Originally posted by Allan Brounstein:
Ok searched net and found pipe sealant.the 557 stuff. Not sure where to get it though maybe home depot?

Originally posted by Allan Brounstein:
Ok on closer inspection at least at idle it is an oil leak still right above the drivers side inner joint. it leaks on the oipan near the plug or on the frame or it can sling the oil around when car is moving I guess. I can see an actual dripping happening when peek under the car and it seems to be coming from the oil pan to block area where the one bolt is obscured by the halfshaft inner joint closest to drivers side.

Originally posted by Allan Brounstein:

I did encircle all the bolt holes with the rtv and did let it sit a good 24hours before driving or even filling the car up.

I have nice stainless bolts with torx heads on them and its impossible to tighten that bolt without taking the bracket off the axle to
get access.Not a huge deal just was trying to tighten it without having to do much else. Even cut an allen key or whatever down so it might fit in the space but it won't. Course normal bolt would work better for access.

Originally posted by Allan Brounstein:

I am sure thought that torqued that bolt properly.
Not sure why it would leak there and why it would
have to be in the most annoying place to get to to see what is going on exactly.

I am wondering if tightening don't work then have to pull pan again I guess. That seems to be the only leak which really sucks but its a messy one!
If it was just about anywhere else you would get a few drops on the ground but no this leak has to go on the joint and get slung everywhere!

Is there any way putting some rtv in the joint might seal it up just with finger? Or anyother pruduct that might work to seal it without pan removal it don't seem like huge leak just little steady stream of droplets.

Originally posted by Allan Brounstein:

Anyone else have a leak from somewhere else that was going on that center joint?

Originally posted by Amin Ahmadi:
you clean both surfaces,

So let's see how many posts it takes for an oil pan to get installed!

Originally posted by Allan Brounstein:
Still also hard to tell if some of the short axle fluid is syncromesh or oil. I have fresh oil and sycromesh in there. I assume sycromesh is clear also. It would be simple if it was red.

Originally posted by Allan Brounstein:
Also its not blowby.Its a new engine.I am not doing a compression test yet.Maybe after a few more hundred miles to insure the rings have seated.