Mine are shot too, after a few laps at Dunnville, they started to grind
With some heat from torch, freezer, PB blaster and lot's of luck, looks like it should be doable without presses.
All depends how rusty and seized up parts are.
Here's quick summary:
(quote from dsmtalk)
The rear isn't as bad as the front. You will need the inner and outter bearings, the oil seals, a can of PB blaster and a hub puller w/slide hammer.
You want to unbolt the axle flange from the axle shaft and tap it with a hammer until to cracks free.
While the wheel is still on, use a large socket to remove the axle flange nut that is inside the flange.
Remove the wheel and brake equipment from that side and tie up the caliper to prevent damaging the brake hose.
Use the puller to yank out the hub from the spindle. It is a bitch but, keep at it for a bit and it will come out.
Once that is out you can knock out the bearings with a hammer and a long punch. Be careful not to scar the inner race of the spindle. If the outter bearing is stuck on the hub (which it might), you need to slide it off of there with a bearing press or a wedge type bearing puller. The dust seal will be between the bearing and the hub flange.
Clean everything to a grease-free/dirt free state. check the hub's outter race for signs of wear. If it is smooth and shinny, move on if not get a new one.
Put the outter bearing into the outside end on the spindle with lots of bearing grease on it. Place the dust cap on it and tap it down snug.
Slide the hub through with lots of grease and get it fully seated.
Now tap the inner bearing into place and place it's seal on top.
Replace axle flange and nut finger tight. This will get tightened when you have either have a wheel on the ground or can use the e-brake to keep the hub from spinning.
The rest is re-assembly.
The noise should get worse as you change direction, if that's not your case it could be something else.
