My car is at the shop installing a act 2600 clutch and flywheel and i have encountered a problem when the car is started i can not get it into gear. but when the car is of i can get every gear easily. i am a 100% positive that the parts are right. but i cant figure this out need help and fast.

thanx fo rthe space

Your clutch needs to be adjusted at the master cylinder.

Ryan's right. More accurately, the clutch master cylinder adjustment rod is what you need to look at (located directly above the gas pedal). Had the same problem as you after I installed my clutch and this quick fix did the trick just fine.

Here's the vfaq reference:

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/clutch_adj.html

It's really not as hard as they make it out to be.

Enjoy!

Typical, the Clutch does not fully disengage. Their is a multiture of posibility.

Check for the most obvious; bleed the Slave Cylinder, check the Clutch Pedal adjustment (freeplay and travel), check the Shift Cable adjustment and at last pull the Tranny off and measure the Flywheel Step.

Other posibility would be a colapsed Trow Out Bearing, bemt or broken Shift Fork.

Hope this helps.

Ghislain.

this stuff has been very helpful, but im still getting this problem, i have done all of those things but i am still encountering this problem i was wondering if there mounting plate that you can get for this clutch to help with the operation i have only heard this so if anyone has info on this it would be greatly appreciated

I have heard of the friction plate being put on backward causing this.

Posibility but I think that it would make a hell of a noise.

My bet is that the FW step is out of specs.

Pull the Tranny off and inspect the Clutch Disc and have a competent Machine Shop measure the FW step.

Ghislain.

well i bought the act flywheel 4 puck disc as well teh 2600 pressure plate. we did a measure from the original there is a 3mm difference in height i dont know if that would make much of a difference...

It's not possible to put the disk on backwards.

I had the same problem a couple of years ago when Magnus was installing a new ACT2100. Tranny went in and out three times only to determine that the ACT pressure plate was defective from factory. Marco then put an OEM style clutch in, bolted everything up and the car operated fine. I've just recently put in a Centerforce DF unit and had no issues. Me personaly, I would stay far away from ACT products.

Another member bought a ACT flywheel at the shootout (brand new sealed in the package) for an AWD only to get home to find out the packaging was for a AWD but the part number stamped on the unit itself was for a FWD. I ended up buying it off of him but he was pretty pissed about it.

Mark

Have a quick peak while you're adjusting to see if your master cylinder is leaking (a bit of fluid comming from the rod going through the firewall).

I've had this happen on both of my awd dsms. I had a very low clutch with various engagement problems on both cars. Could adjust most of the problems out using the regular methods named above. I found the best results were when I replaced the master/slave cylinders with new (Aftermarket 3rd part on the car currently) and then re-adjusted. I have STOCK like engagement on an ACT 2100. It engages up high exactly like it's supposed to stock. I got the same results from my 1995 as well.

Also worth a look is a braided steel clutch line from ziggy. Not overly expensive. If you have a friend that works at napa you migth be able to get the master and slave for around 100-120 dollars total. Pray to the car gods for that one.

i have a act 2600 with a 6 puck disc.

i use a washer under the pivot ball on the tranny where the shifter fork is.

and i use a 1/4 inch longer slave rod.very important!!!!!!

and i got a new clutch master cylinder and i made my own little extender rod.

the threads on the master arnt long enough...design flaw...so i made them 1/2 inch longer and perfect.

im telling you act cluchs hold crzy power but they wear out maddd fast. 6mths tops.

you have to do all of these mods in order for the master to push hard enough to disingage thisd clutch.

good luck...

i have personally gone through 27 racing clutchs on my 500 hp talon.
dont expect it to last!

If you have gone through 27 clutches, yo have 1 of 2 options, either put the right clutch in there, or learn how to drive.
We will assume you know how to drive.
There is no way that if things are going correct you wou go through that many, unless you have put a million or so KM on the car.
This spring I replaced th Master/Slave, and when I put in a new Clutch/FW I replaced the clutch fork and ball.
No need for a longer rod, shims under the ball or any any "band-aid" solutions.
The only reason to need anything abnormal is to compensate for worn parts.

man hahahahah..dont be a hater ok.
i have replaced my clutch fork twice.
its not my fault that i have to much power and i drive my car every day snow and rain and sleet.

I DRIVE MY CAR EVERDAY...TO THE STORE...TO COLLEGE....TO WORK...ETC.

4mths toppsss with a spring hub disc...tops. the torque would snap all the springs out and would sound like marbles fyin aroung in the bellhousing.
i have had my car for 7.5 yrs trial and error. i have owned and used centerforce df clutches...garbage.
xtd solid disc stage 4 garbage.
act 2600 6 puk disc ...ok but hard on other parts.

i have even had to replace my clutch master 3 times...cause they just blow.
IM SERIOUS AND I HAVE 2 DRAWERS FULL OF RECIEPTS....DONT ALK sh!t WHEN U DONT KNOW...!

also the band aid solution is recommended by tre in the usa.

wowowowowowow
if tre says to do it geeeeeeeeeeee they must be worng.

fool

Longer slave rod is not needed, especially if your putting a shim under the ball. In fact the only reason you need to do that if because of a worn out ball and fork, or if the flywheel has been machined many times.
Also, springs don't pop out with too much torque, more like improper engagement, dragging clutch disk.
I have been using an ACT 2600 with full face street disk for over 2 years, and pull consistent 1.6 60' foots most of the time, and I do drive my car every day and everywhere as well.
Proper engagement and proper driving and a clutch disk should last well over a season of hard use.

You just echoed the same thing I said in my post, you are using the wrong clutches.
"its not my fault that i have to much power and i drive my car every day snow and rain and sleet." The same thing I said.

If you overpower the clutch, or beat the crap out of it it won't last.
If you are up around the 500 hp mark, or maling tons of torque you shouls have been using a ACT 2900
Anything above that go twin disk, sure they are initially expensive, but hey it would be cheaper than 27 clutch setups.

As for the longer slave rod, if you had a properly stepped flywheel, and weren't compensating for worn parts somewhere else in the setup, why would you need to go with a longer slave rod?

Not a design flaw, more like a worn out clutch pedal assembly. You should get all new parts and bushings for it and get the clutch pedal lever welded. That, a proper flywheel step and a new fork/ball, or washer under it, should make a clutch engage proper, as Tim said.
Just because TRE recommends a band aid solution, doesn't mean they are telling you to do the right thing. It's more like for people who don't have a clue to how the clutch system works, and don't know or have the time to take off the tranny, a longer slave rod will get them by till its corrected.

ur guys are stupid.
i have replaced and rebuild my whole clutch pedal assembly, and it didnt even need it and i welded the arm.

you know what? waste of time.

waste of time.
i have pissed around with crappy discs and crappy clutches but i machined my flywheel proper to tre spec everytime....omfg u guys are too much.
i bet i setup my car better than u do everytime...ive done it 27 times.

i have all new parts and i still go through masters every year...and y...because the shitty little piston is only a 5/8bore on a 1g and its too small to move and pressure around.

if u put a home made slave extender rod...i made mine with a hacksaw and a ruler....OBVIOUSLY TOO DIFFICULT FOR YOU GUYS TO COMPREHEND....OR IS THE IDEA OF CUSTOM sh!t ABOVE YOUR HEADS...IT OBVIOUSLY IS.


extend the slave rod....it makes the shifterfork geometry better and with the washer underneath the clutch fork the geometry is even better...
anyone who understands leverage and how leverage works...
mechanical leverage....
will agree with me...
im a ENGINEER.
MY DAD IS A SENIOR MECHANICAL ENGINEER
and hes helped me with the calculations.
u need the rod period...
these fools dont have a clue.

i made 3 or 4 extender rods....just go 1/8" bigger a time....i need 1/4inch...
everycar is different...when u start using aftermarket stuff...u will fins that stock specs dont work out...
cause u dont have stock stuff.

rightttttttttttttttttttttttttttt

Are you serious? The clutch life usually only has to do with how hard you drive your car, you must drive yours hard. I too drive my car to work and back, day in and day out. That's right. My PROVEN mid-11 second car gets about 10,000-15,000km a season. I've been on the same clutch for the whole season and beaten the car up at the track.

Secondly, the stock clutch hydraulic is inadequate. I'll agree with you there. But you said you extended the master adjustment rod, extended the slave rod AND shimmed the pivot ball. Unless you are running an ACT 6900lbs plate, something else is up.

Thirdly, don't lose your cool over nothing. If you could see half the guys engine bays in this thread, you would know that we understand custom work and what it takes to get things done with trial and error. Why come pick fights and lose your cool over nothing?

Ben, calm down and be a little more respectful of the members and mods of the board. It's OK to disagree as long as you're not an asshole about it.

I do agree with the other guys that if you've gone through that many clutches you're doing something wrong. I would have guessed the pedal assembly (because of all the fixes you're needing to use to get things adjusted right) but since you say you fixed that perhaps you're just adjusting them incorrectly.

I was having trouble getting my clutch adjusted once and almost resorted to some of those same bandaid fixes (pivot washer, extended slave) before I discovered I had a crack in my clutch pedal which was preventing me from getting the adjustment right. I fixed the pedal and haven't had a problem since.

I've personally had the same ACT 2600 in my car for YEARS with no problems, and my car is also a daily driver. I've never heard of anyone going through as many clutches as you and there are LOTS of members here with alot of power that drive their cars regularly.

I don't see how your setting it up any better if you have done it 27 times. I do it once and do it right so I don't have to be doing it over and over again. You must be doing something wrong. Maybe you welded the lever in the wrong spot, lol.

I go through masters every other year, and change my slave as well. Since you replace them so often, I'm sure you also know that the OEM ones last longer.

Your so called "custom sh!t" slave rod that you built with a ruler and hacksaw, is BS, becuase if you really knew anything about geometry, or if you knew how the clutch system works you wouldn't be using the rod. No wonder you go through masters and slave so often. Use your head buddy, if you have a big enough washer under the fork, it takes up the necessary slack, and you don't need the longer rod, leverage remember.

And did you even know what that spring does in the slave??? I guess not. Right, let the plunger in the slave take up the slack. Wherever the slave sits when your not steping on the clutch, it will extend right from that point as soon as the clutch is pressed. Thats something for you to think about.

Who gives a sh!t if your an engineer doesn't mean your good with DSM's. Sh!t, most mechanics mess them up half the time, what makes you any better ?

Anyways, have fun replacing the disk 5 times a year

He's not an engineer, if you read his profile he's an electrical engineering student.
Enough said.
2.3 stroker, 20,000 km...1 clutch.
The only Mitsu part in my motor is the block, is that custom enough for you?

It's pretty funny when someone trys to claim themselves as knowlegeable because they have screwed up more parts than anyone else.

its funny how you started hatn on me first and now ur all bent out of shape cause i speak mind....

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

how about a little respect for me.................

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm


its funny how of course your right and im obviously wrong cause ive had a 500hp car for 7.5 yrs.

and i dont know sh!t....

WRONG.

I HAVE THE FASTEST CAR IN TOWN EVERYONE NOWS ME AND RESPECTS ME WHERE I LIVE...
PERIOD.

u guys buy PRE BUILT MAGNUS MOTORS AND TRANNYS AND I BUILD MY OWN 500 HP STROKER MOTOR...

U GUYS ARE THE ONE COPPING OUT BUYING SOMEONE ELSE sh!t.!

not me.

i am the true customizer.
i do all my own work. period.
engine rebuilds
tranny rebuilds...
27 clutches....
3 sets of cv shafts...
etc
etc
etc

and of course im wrong.

HAVE RESPECT FOR ME AND ADMIT THAT YOUR WRONG.

EXTENDING THE SLAVE 1/8 INCH FIXES THE PROBLEM INSTANTLY AND PERM.

END OF STORY.

Sorry Marvin, this thread has gone off and does not seem to offer any more help to you.
You may want to start another one if you're still having problems.

Ben, THIS IS NOT HOW YOU GET RESPECT!

END OF STORY.

P.S. Instead of yapping your flap in here, shouldn't you be out there pulling your tranny, or maybe "engineering" some way to keep it together for more than four months?