LSD too

Yea that was me, I was hoping for some 11.5's but oh well. I'm still happy with the way it runs consistently. I must of spanked every V8 with slicks that lined up with me. FP3065 or equivalent is on my list of things to get before I head out to the track again in the spring. The way I see it, another 8-10 MPH will easily put me into the 10's

On the other hand, Kev ran an 11.4x @ 128.xx. Congrats on that Kev!

Already have a Quaife LSD. I'm sure 18's with the 40 series tires I run, just make the issue worse. Best 60 have ever pulled was 2.29 @ St Thomas & 2.38 at Cayuga.

Thanks, the car was really inconsistant for some reason, I couldn't figure it out. Most of my runs I would hit 3rd gear and I would lose all power and RPMs wouldn't budge past 5K, and then about 2-3 seconds later it would kick in again The only thing I could pick out from the logs was that my timing for whatever reason starts to sky rocket to 30*. One run would be an 11 followed by a 14. My best pass of the day was:

60' - 1.718
330 - 4.988
1/8 - 7.491
MPH - 103.63
1000- 9.647
1/4 - 11.427
MPH - 128.47

I think my biggest accomplishment was the fact I cut my first 1.6 60' time with a 1.642. The reason I say this is a big accomplishment for me, is the fact that I am still on a NON-LSD 3-bolt rear-end. I have lots of 1.7s, but it feels good to finally get a 1.6 on street tires!

You ran a WHAT on a 3-bolt?!?

LOL. That's awesome, Kev. Have you done any rear suspension mods?

Congrats on the low 11 as well. Not an easy thing to do!

104 mph through the 1/8!, now thats f`in moving! im sure you`ll hit your 10 second pass soon. Feels good to actually have a timeslip to go along with the car eh haha, congrats Kev.

Thanks guys!

Steve, my suspension consists of Koni Yellows/Eibach sportlines.
I'm not sure where my Koni's are set to tho .

I'd also like to send out a Congrats to Todd for his first official 11 second pass. I forgot what exactly he ran, but he was flying at 126mph!

60' - 1.793
330 - 5.206
1/8 - 7.829
mph - 97.65
1000- 10.014
1/4 - 11.819
mph - 126.58

That run was at 28 psi. I upped the boost to 31 but never got a clean pass and opted to not run again to save breaking anything. Not a bad mph considering its a stock bottom end and intake manifold. Looks like I need to setup the NLTS.

Wow. You don't need a NLTS, you just need to learn how to shift a little quicker. THEN NLTS should come after that.

And I'm still on the 3 bolt as well. Early in the day 2nd gear was spinning like I was on ice.

Holy crap Kevin, you trap faster in the 1/8 than I do in the 1/4.

Nice numbers guys... and Kevin, congrats on the low 11's on the 3 BOLT!! I'm sure those puny little axles were hurting afterwards.

Thanks Ryan! I was aiming for a 10 with a stock block, 3-bolt rear end, without race gas. Even tho I didn't achieve my goal, I'm happy with this year and had lots of fun along the way.

^^^
Same here, had fun this year, was a good way to end the season with the car still running strong.
Congrats on the 11 Todd. Your car is hauling as well!

Looks like we all made some significant accomplishments for the '07 racing season.

Lets hope next years is better than this one!

Hmmm, gained 7 mph to drop .4 off my ET, don't know if thats a significant accomplishment (damn fwds ). Oh well hopefully the drag radials will fix that issue. Hopeing for mid to low 12's next year, around 115 mph on pump.

That was a fun day beating up on f-bodys and stangs'. I was there all day ran a best of 11.1@123, went to St. Thomas the next day, which happened to be a perfect day and the track was dead, ran 7, yes 7 11.1 passes at 121-125mph in a row, with a few 1.4 60's in there, backed it up with a 10.91@126 for the last pass of the day!!!

Can't wait till next year, its gonna be a long winter!

Daren, even though its FWD, shouldn't you be trapping in the 120's at least, with the FP3052.
Let me borrow that turbo for a day, and run 10's on it

Congrats on the 10 second pass Mike!

Ya, 120's are defently possible (know a guy who traps 122 on pump, without meth as far as I know) but I'm not really pushing the turbo, running 24-25psi to take it easy on the stock 7 bolt (yea I can probably run a few more psi & still be safe) & you have to remember I'm currently trapping 113 mph but only using 30-40% throttle in 1st & spinning like crazy & only runing around 18 psi in 2nd & spinning as well. I'm thinking if I could go WOT in 1st & had proper traction in 2nd running full boost I would easily be in the 115+ range, maybe closer to 120? This is also with the smaller FP1X cams which are designed for low/mid power & crappy 2g intake mani. I'll be installing the evoIII intake mani to help the top end flow for next year & hopefully the Hoosiers really help my first 2 gears, so I'll be closer to the 120 mph range. The powers there, just putting it down is the issue....

Fixed that for you!

I'm curious, what are the specifics of the Hoosier setup you'll be running next year?
What rim/tire to fit over the big brakes?

I found some out 16's will work with my big brake setup. I picked up a used pair of BSA 16's that happened to have a nice spoke design so I have lots of clearance on the caliper face & something like 1/4" between the topside of the caliper & inner rim.

For tires there seem to be two good options from Hoosier in a 16" rim, one is their Quciktime Pro slicks & the other is their DOT drag radials. I think Im probably going to go with the drag radials because the only version suitable for us in a 16" rim is a 26.1" tall tire x 9.5". I've heard a couple people say a slick this tall can be hard or drivetrain parts & can be known to break things (being you have to launch much higer to prevent bogging out). Being Im still on stock axles & tranny, I don't think I want to risk it. A 24.5" tall slick is ideal for us, but this isn't offered in a 16" rim (only in 15" or less)

The Hoosier drag radials look to be the closest to a slick, drag radial on the market. They basically have no tread pattern, just two small groves around the diameter of the tire. They use a race tread compound & state they are not to be used off the track. They are also a light weight construction, like a slick, with the 225/50/16 coming in at 18 lbs. I haven't been able to find alot of info on our cars using them (a few awd running low 10's that think their great) but the info I've heard about using on other car setups has all been positive. Being Hoosier is dedicated to making race tires & not street tires, I think they should work pretty well. Here's a pic:

Have you possibly thought about fab'ing up a wheeley bar for the back? That would help keep your front end down.

I'm sure that would help, but having to fab ub some weeley bars just to run 12's is pretty rediculas. If it comes down to that I will be doing an awd swap instead

I gave Hoosier a call on their Drag radials (ones I posted above). Said in general a drag radial will ET & mph faster then a bias ply if it hooks properly for your application (guess makes sense, less rolling resistance in a radial). Said as far as drag radials go, theirs should be the stickyest out their, since they have basically no tread pattern & they use the same race compound as their quicktime pro drag tires. Supposed to be a very soft compound & did mention again they are not to be driven on the road. They have a tread rating of 40. Was telling him guys were having good results on the BFG's with my application & he said if those work well, these will work better. Seem to be able to run sub 2.0 60's with the BFG's so I'd be happy with consistant 1.9's & anything less is even better (actually would be happy if I could even pull a 2.0). Guess we'll find out in the spring how well they work...

Quicktime Pros (bias ply) provide much greater sidewall flex "winkle" compared to drag radials. With this being said, drag radials are more prone to wheel hop (AKA drivetain enemy). In fact, ive heard of many storys of people switching from DR`s to bias ply and eliminating alot of drivetrain failue. If the 26in tire is too big for you, id consider going with a 24.5in M/T slick.

Ya I've taken that into consideration but I don't think these can possible wheel hop any worse then my street tires already do. I would go to a 24.5" slick for sure, if that was an option for me, buts its not as they don't make any in a 16" rim diameter, which is the smallest rim I can fit over my Wilwood brakes. I do have a Quaife LSD, so atleast that eliminates the weak factoy opend diff. I've just heard several mention bad things about running a 26" tall slick on stock drivetrain components....

Well here's my newest addition in my quest for some traction. Ended up going with the Hoosier drag radials as the 26" tall QTP's wouldn't work with my current drop. They are a good amount lighter the a regular street radial & they seem to have a much softer/flexible sidewall (well actually the whole tires in general) compared to other radials I've felt. Hopefully won't be too hard on the CV shafts

Very nice!

How much did they run you? I may look into a set of 4 for next year.

Got them from Hoosier's Ontario distributor, Bicknell Racing, in St Catherines. Their contact info is listed on the Hoosier site, Ron is the guy there you want to talk to (the guy who's in charge of Hoosier). According to my invoice the list on them is $222.97 CDN & I was quoted/paid $195 CDN a tire. Just had them shipped to my work & that was $25.

How are mickey thompson e/t streets? My buddy has them on his foxbody and they hook like no tomorrow

^I've only heard great things about them as well. Reason why I didn't consider them is they too only come in a 255/50/16 size (that I could possible run), which works out to a diameter of 26.1". If I was going to run a tire this tall I'd probably opt for the Hooser QTP's being bias ply but because of my current drop a 26" tall tire wasn't an option.

Okay, going to keep this thread going. Bored so took a couple pics of the tires mounted on the pair of used BSA rims I was able to pick up for cheep. Their 16's & fairly light at 17lb's ea (well atleast compared to my 25lb ea 18's) & they were the typical silver finish but I wanted black so used the Duplicolour satin black rim paint & turned out great.

Something about rims being wrapped with slicks.....I got to go =]

Nice looking wheels Daren!

What width are those rims? I'm hoping you say 8.5" because I've searched high and low for 16x8.5's.

Isn't the root cause of the wheel hop not enough rear spring?

No, I'm pretty sure it's due to not enough rear wheel spinning.

No rims are 7" width.

I'm sure weight transfer to the rear defently doesn't help the situation but I don't think its the biggest cause in my case. My car naturally sits with the front abit lower then the rear & I'm sure their not the highest rate rear spring but with my adjustable shock, the car doesn't squat all that bad (especially compared to a stock suspension car). Urthane motor mounts to a great job of preventing hop (which I have), but I think my biggest issue is trying to run an 255/40/18 tire combo. The sidewalls of a regular street radial are pretty stiff to begin with & then add in a very low profile & it just makes the issue even worse. I'm hoping the new sidewalls will give me an improvement in this area.

Actually I think Tims is the best answer , so if anyone has a complete mint awd drivetrain there looking to get rid of, I'll find a new home for it

Oops, I thought you were running an AWD when I made my rear spring comment.

I wasn't thinking spring rate for weight transfer. The spring rate is to prevent the wheel hop when your tire alternates between grip and no-grip which, I think, is what causes wheel hop. So you'd need more spring in the front.
<edit> Actually, going to a smaller (and lighter) wheel setup will reduce the unsprung weight which should help the situation greatly. The spring and damper dont' have to work so hard to keep the tire on the ground.</edit>

As you said, your adjustable rear damper, cranked up, will slow the weight transfer to the rear.

Holy shyt batman! 255-40 on an 18" rim is over an 1" larger diameter than stock. Trying to save gas?

I don't know much about drag racing but I would think that smaller diameter and wider would be better. It's all about acceleration isn't it? Smaller diameter wheel, less mass hanging out on the outer diamter (rubber and rim), and better gearing so more of the gears in the tranny are actually useful.

That was a typo, street setup is 225/40/18 (not 255), so basically stock diameter. The Hoosiers are 225/50/16, so slightly smaller overall diameter, which isn't a nad thing since fwds have longer gearing vs awds to start with.