Hey guys;

I've got a few valve covers I'm working on and I would like to gauge some interest here to see if anyone would be interested.

I've just recently shaved/sanded (not yet polished) a valve cover and I am going to weld in some -8AN or -10AN fittings for a catch can.

I'm thinking $175 shipped with a good core, $200 without.

Baffles will remain in, and they will be run through a parts washer at a machine shop before I do the final buff-n-polish.

These will be bare valve covers, no oil cap, no gaskets.

Post here if you are interested and I'll start working!

Does that include shipping to SK? I know only 6-bolt 1G's...are the 2G and 1G valve covers have the same fitment. or rather 7-bolt vs 6-bolt head? I have never heard of them being different but thought I better ask in case it matters. Next question is are you taking the baffles out for drilling, then cleaning, then re-installing baffles? I am paranoid about shavings dropping in the valve train.

That includes shipping to anywhere in North America.

No, I won't be taking out the baffles, I know of a bunch of guys who have not taken out baffles and been fine.

Ok, so here's an update.

I just placed my order with Ziggy for some -10AN Aluminum weld in fittings. I've got 1 valve cover shaved ready to polish, just waiting on the fittings. I have 3 more I am going to shave tonight.

Still have yet to pick up a grinder, polishing wheel and some rouge.

If anyone is near a Princess Auto and wouldn't mind hitting it up for their polishing wheel and rouge kit, PM me.

Just a note:

The spark plug well will be cleaned and stripped, it will not be polished since I cannot get into there with a wheel or anything like that. I would recommend a spark plug cover or COP if you want it covered.

Thanks.

PM me when you got something. I am still interested.

Update.

Ok, so here is final pricing.

Shaved/Polished with -10AN fittings: $175 plus core, $200 without. This is shipped.

Shaved/Polished without -10AN fittings: $150 plus core, $175 without.

Shaved/Powdercoated with -10AN Fittings: $200 plus core, $225 without

Shaved/Powdercoated without -10AN Fittings: $175 Plus Cre, $200 without.

I will be getting Summit Aluminum -10AN weld in fittings for the valve covers.

Powdercoating will be done by Mike Degli Angeli at Brightside Coatings. Please allow for an extra 5-7 business days for your valve cover.

I have shaved 3, waiting on my grinder and polishing wheel. Picked up a belt sander last night, AWESOME tool. Makes everything come flush and not wavy.

After the welding is all done (TIG), the valve covers are going to a machine shop for a good cleaning before the final polish.

Valve covers that are going to be powdercoated will be prepped with the belt sander, however Mike will be doing the final prep for powdercoat.

If you want one of these, let me know! You will not be disappointed.

You should complete one then show us pictures. Are you using any coating on the polished covers to keep the shine?

I plan on throwing a clear coat on it, yes.

When I get one polished, I'll throw up some pics.

Here's a few pics of my progress.

These haven't even seen a buffing wheel yet as I have yet to get my grinder.

80 and 120 grit on the belt sander, 120 and 200 on the Mouse sander, then I do 400 and 600 wet sanding by hand. I've got some decent metal polish, so I have it a bit of a polish and this is what I've come up with.

Wait till the rouge and polishing wheel hits it.










Obviously no where near done, and my camera's not the best.

After some research and much debate, I will be removing the baffles for the cleaning process. I don't want to have anyone's motor wrecked.

I'm on holidays starting tomorrow. I should have at least 2 valve covers completed by Friday, so if you are interested, get your order in!

Update:

Well, the fittings I got are a little big, so they won't be going in the PCV location after all. Instead, they are going to go directly next to them so I can fit them on. I will have the stock holes welded up.

Valve covers are being welded up as we speak. The fittings are not going to be directly over the stock locations, however will be right beside them with the holes drilled for it all. The stock breathers are being welded shut.

I have 4 valve covers being done. When they get back, the baffles are coming out and they're going to the machine shop to be cleaned. After they are cleaned, I am tacking the baffles back in and they are hitting the polishing wheel for the final buff and shine.

PM me with orders.

They're back!

Currently getting cleaned and final polish. The welds are... ok. Not the best, no where near anything JMF or Magnus can do, but they're good. I'm going to be cleaning them up and smoothing them out this weekend and getting a final polish on them. They should turn out as well as a JMF heatsheild.

Pictures should be up this weekend.

Finished product:

Cool!
What does the underside look like?
Are the baffles gone now?

Did you clear coat it or anything?
For me you don't have to...I can get it powder coated clear.

No clear coat. Baffles still there. It got a 1hr soak in a varsol bath before it was final polished, so the underside is still oil brown, but cleaner.

I still have yet to paint the plug well silver.

That looks awesome, man. I'm gonna have to start saving up for one of these! How many do you plan on making?

Depends on how many orders I get.

Quick question about the baffles and welding the bungs on... How did you weld the baffles back in? the ones in my VC are steel while the VC is aluminum. Secondly, when you welded the bungs on, they sit lower then the baffle, so did you put another baffle in so oil cannot directly go from the head out through the new fitting?. Oh, make it three lol. When you put the baffles back in, did you use some sort of a gasket to keep oil from seeping up and around?

O.k, I dont know how Ryan went about this but, When i did mine i did not have to remove the baffle all you have to do is drill the hole bigger to the -AN fitting spec, Just being very careful that you dont go farter of what you supposed to.

Right Ryan?

-Manuel

Ah, so you just re-used the PCV and breather holes then?

I already have my holes drilled for the AN fitting and they are in the same places Ryan has his too.

Mine were not exactly where the stock holes were, but I think I may have effed these up as the holes ended up coming out below the baffles. I've heard many a guy run without baffles, but I'm not sure if anyone will want these.

This may not work out as planned as I put the fittings in the wrong spot.

I wouldn't ditch them yet Ryan, as of right now I have the exact same setup for the VC, baffle still out.

I have been thinking of a few ways to make it so the fittings will still breathe from above the baffle plate. I am planning to trace out the baffle onto a piece of aluminum( 3/16) and basicly copy the exact same baffle but out of aluminum, and from the An fittings, route a snorkel basicly through the plate and sit about 1/2" above the baffle plate.

Kind of hard to explain but I'll try and make an MS paint of it or something. I wont be able to finish this idea for a week or 2.

Might be a PITA since you are making a bunch of them though.

Well, I have 4 made, I just don't know if anyone will want them since I will probably have to remove the baffles and leave them out.

Do you push much oil with your setup?

Maybe you could make a couple of "cups" out of sheet-metal to extend those parts of the baffle.
A little grinding and some rivets, and you can say hi to Uncle Bob.

If you can get the fittings vented above the baffles, I'll consider taking one.

Not like I have blowby, but I could definately use one for my setup. So far I have been doing just fine with the stock valve cover vent, but I have noticed the valve cover gasket start to sweat at high boost at the track.

I think this is something more for the high boost guys, or the low boost, sh!t tuning, lots of detonation and blowby guys, or just a plain ole worn out motor guys.

I guess we can all benefit from using one

I Don't have mine installed, I just liked this idea and will be doing a complete build on the laser in the future. I just had some downtime and thought this would be a fun project.

I would be making an entirely new baffle plate out of alumninum, maybe it doesnt need to be.. but I would feel better knowing my new baffle plate is welded on, not riveted or screwed back on, but that's just me. The snorkel piece I was thinking of, would be welded onto the backside of the AN fitting, and would be a 90 degree bend ( 1/2" ID aluminum tube) that would go straight up through a hole into the baffle.

Reza, how much boost are you running?
I'm pushing oil with my setup at 21psi

This is on my newly rebuilt (twice) motor. I'm afraid to do a leakdown test...Marco said just get some -10 fittings and vent it. He said with a GT35R you will get blowby...

I need to try this, cause it leaks from a few places under boost, and it makes a mess.

Mark, I've been running no less than 30 psi on the streets on pump gas and meth all year, it does not push any oil out the vent, and I just have a regular breather on it. The engine was rebuilt with new everything and I used fresh oem gaskets everywhere. Compression is perfect, and the engine doesn't burn any oil.

Valve cover gasket is brand new. 35 to 37 psi at the track the last few times I went, I actually noticed it sweating along the edges. Still no real oil out the vent. At 30 psi, no sweating.

Most people would not even notice the sweating as it was very minimal, but I notice it since I just have a new valve cover gasket on. I don't like any leaks or sweats on the engine.

Also, knock or a bad tune will cause the motor to push oil. I've seen it happen from the rear main many times, that stops leaking with a much better tune.

The valve cover vents will definately help keep all the other seals happy, but I wouldn't expect to see such a problem upto 30 psi on the stock vent.

I actually jack the car up and crawl underneath very often to check for leaks or anything wrong. I have not had any leaks or sweats from anything other than the valve cover gasket all year long.

If you guys want, i'm able to do this modification. Its kinda of pricy once i buy fittings, pay my welder and a bit for my time. I can do this $50.

The fitting are placed on top using 90 degree -10 fittings. I need to take pictures of my setup for you guys to see. The hood closes no problem and looks very clean and professional.

If either of you would like to try out my non baffled -10 setup from my car you guys are more then welcome to borrow it.

Mike, I think the baffles are pretty important. I've seen that valve cover at your place a few months ago. Any way you can put the baffles back in ?

Well, I have the holes drilled on one valve cover, the other 3 just have the bungs mounted on, not yet drilled. I am just hesitant to cut the weld off and re-locate it. I might give that a shot.

Reza,
It was tuned on the dyno by Marco himself...

Not sure what else to say. I don't know how to do anything on an AEM.

You think maybe the rings did not seat right ? I broke my motor in at 20 psi right from the get go, and had perfect compression by 200 to 250 km. I didn't do a wimpy break in at all.

My car pushes oil into the catch can at an alarming rate with my GT35R @ 30psi. Fresh rebuild, compression is good. I have a stock vent setup with an inline plastic check valve on the PCV and an air compressor water separator on the VC to intake line. My dipstick will blow out every time if it's not strapped down, and it fills the spark plug galley and blows out the front VC hole as well.

I bought a leakdown tester last week but haven't had a chance to try it out yet. I've gotta figure this out over the winter - making a mess!

I do have a sh!t tune on my car though.. You really think that could cause this Reza?

Definately, I have seen it happen too many times on a perfect engine, then people wonder why their new gaskets are leaking.

Detonation causes blowby, causing a perfectly fine engine to puke out oil from anywhere possible.

Interesting.. i'm not seeing any knock in DSMLink with the Meth Injection - but definitely something to investigate. We'll see what the leakdown test tells me! Thanks.