Yeah i feel dumb, but at least i ask to take care of my car properly right;)? When you do an oil change on a turbo isnt there somthing differant? dont you do somthing with the turbo?
also the previous owner went with mobil 1 synthetic oil so I will stick with that, and the filter is a high flow high capacity mobil 1 (m1 105 i believe?) should i stick with that or is there somthing better that is preffered? my dad also says synthetic doesnt need to be changed often, but i read you guys changing it at like 3000(this miles or km?) is that because you drag race? with regular driving (and a small amount of fun:P) what is recommended intervals for synthetic? (in miles not km)

nope, no special procedure for turbo. I change my oil every five thousand kilometers or 6 months. I use mobil1 20w50(summer) with a fram filter. That mobil1 filter sounds cool though. k+n makes a filter too but its too pricey for me!

Synthetic can be good for upwards of 12,000kms. No need to change it at 5000kms. Just make sure you don't burn it up before then. Screw fram filters, keep using the mobil 1 filter or go to the Mitsu dealer and get some, they are just as cheap.

I change my oil every 3000 kms with royal purple synthetic and k&n oil filter.

ruben isnt your car also in miles???

Yea it is since its a eclipse there all in miles.

Also when changing oil put some oil inside the filter and around the ring.

no shttt and no shttt:P no offence ruben;) but yeah good call, some ppl wouldnt know that

What part the eclipse are all in miles or the poor oil into filter?

Mobil 1 is a great synthetic oil. Yes, with synthetics you can run then much longer then a conventional oil & I believe there's usually a recommended interval on the container. With that being said, the oil is the life blood of the motor & a turbo car creates alot more heat & puts the oil though alot more vs a NA car. If your anal like me, I still change it every 3K miles (only using Mobil 1). I use the OEM Talon filter, just because I don't like the small oring seal they use on the Mitsu filter. Also Mopar has just recently revised the filter for our application & its now a good amount larger. Which should equal more capacity/filter area, which is a good thing.

If you change it often enough you probably don't really need to be running synthetic, in my opinion.
I just change the oil before going to the track, or when it gets dark, whichever comes first. Castrol GTX

I do my change every 2k with royal purle and mopar filter(for 1g). I have been doing this from day one. With that said I only put 4-5k on the car a year(this year less). Also fill the filter with oil before install.

Heh. For the price of synthetic, I'll quote the unknown mechanic, "All that oil that gets changed at 5-6,000 kms gets put right back into my car." Unless you're racing, changing synth before 10k kms is just throwing money away. Hell, I ran 10k intervals with 10w30 GTX on my Talon when I was WAY low on funds. The oil would look fine when taking it out, unless I'd really beaten on the car, which made it a bit blacker.

Exactly, synthetic in my opionion is a waste of money. Do you really have to spend $100 on an oil change??? I stick with regular oil and NAPA gold filters. When the oil gets dark or I hit 4000km I change the oil.

Mobile One 10W30 with a K&N filter. The filter wasn't that much more than any other filter so I figure it's worth it, so long as you trust it is a better filter.

Also, I do a flush with the cheapest synthetic I can find and a cheapo filter every couple years, clean the sh!t out of the engine.

aha wow you guys have too many opinions:P

Opinions being what they are, here are the facts if you're NOT an insane car freak...

Dino Oil: Get a good quality oil, 5 or 10w30 (I used Castrol GTX) and a good non-Fram filter, stock size or larger that fits. Chrysler OEM, Mitsu OEM, Wix, NAPA Gold, Purolator are good choices. (I was buying 'Action Japan' ones for a good price locally.) Change every 5,000kms. 3,500kms if you're a nut; 7,500kms if you're frugal, or don't drive the car hard.

Synthetic: Again, a good oil is better. Take note that a lot of 'Synthetic' oils, like Castrol SynTec, are actually higher-cracked carbon based (super-refined regular oil). Mobile One, plus brands like Royal Purple and Amsoil are full synths. Do your research. But there's nothing wrong with the 'non-synthetics' anyway. 5w30 to 10w40 is good. Change every 12,000kms. 5,000kms if you're a nut; 15,000kms if you're frugal (not likely if you're running synth) or don't drive hard. See above for filters.

How you drive is important, as well as if you take proper care of your turbo (warm-up and cool-down periods). Engine health also contributes to how frequently you need to change your oil. Same with the type of oil. Synthetics are much more resistant to fouling and mistreatment than dino oils are.

that was well put troy;) thanks
i have a turbo timer, so cool down is no prob, but warm up? i guess just dont start it up and giver obviously?

really? i change my oil every 5000km with Mobil 1 synthetic...(5w30 or 10w30 depending on season as this is my DD)

i'm going to start doing my own soon, so i guess i'll see how dirty it is when i change it. if it's not really that dirty, i'll probably start making it every 7500km per change.

Nope. "Starting 'er and giving 'er" is a bad idea in any car. I usually wait until my temp guage clears the first part of the 'C' range before I'll think about hard acceleration. I wouldn't beat myself up about it, but it is easier on the engine.

Synthetic oils were made with 15-20k oil changes in mind. Right now I run synth in my Passat and change at 10-12k (the engine is notorious for sludge/coking, and the sump and filter were ridiculously under-sized at that) and 7,500 dino 10w30 in our Vibe. So 7,500kms on synth would be fine for a DSM.

You can never change your oil TOO often, but financially it's a bit of a hit.

Wow Ju, you change your Mobil 1 synthetic every 5000k?? and you don't do it yourself? What is the bill like $120 for an oil change? lol

it's around $80 for oil + filter at Mr. Lube. (I go for free coffee) plus they top other fluids up and I get keep a record of my oil change intervals.

a jug of this is $44+tax at crappy tire. filter is $5-10, so all in all, i pay about $20-30 worth of labour every 2 and a half month or so. It's really not that bad.

But yeah, next change I will be doing myself (still got a jug of 5w30 sitting in my storage from 3 months ago. it's time to use it). Lets hope it's not too dirty...:p

My next oil change is going to be fun! On the 420A motor the oil filter points towards the ground, and it sits rather low. I'm adding a sandwich plate to the filter housing to run my Prosport gauges, so that adds 1". One inch closer to the ground, so I get nervous of hitting the ground with my oil filter, as my car sits ridiculously low. I've got to find a filter that has the same thread, and diameter, but is shorter.

I have been using Mobil 1 Synthetic, w/ FRAM synthetic filter, but I think I'll be switching to a different type of filter, not that I've had ANY trouble with the FRAM ones.

The thing with Fram Filters is that they're known for their bypass to open early, hence, no filtration. Not a big thing, but it's a problem you'd rather not have.

The thing with Jiffy Lube is how often they put different oil in than what you pay for, if they put any in at all...And other things they 'forget', like tightening your drain plug...

This is not a biased opinion.. you can read about it online. Stay away from Fram filters. They are low grade and made from substandard material. Troy is correct about the bypass valve opening early, which means your oil is no longer being filtered. Look into getting NAPA Gold filters which are infact made by Wix.

http://www.wixfilters.com/productinformation/index.html

These are high quality filters. For $10 a filter you will have a hard time finding a better filter.

never had a problem with a fram synthetic filter. Load of crap!

Since we've moved on to filter discussions, I have to admit I get lifter tick on start up if I don't use a wix filter from carquest. I was told its because the oil will drain back into the oil pan and out of the head if you don't use a WIX, purolator, premium filter, ect..

I also use an engine oiil flush once a year, for good measure, and a full synthetic Valvoline 10W30, every 5000KM's give or take a 1000km's.

Edit: You can get the full syn valvoline for $23 on sale and reg $28 for 5 liters, @ walmat.

hmmm.? Im confused, if your oil doesnt drain back down to the pan how do you check your oil level?

maybe you mean it drains out of the filter?

The filter is suppose to hold some pressure to keep the oil in the head for longer period of time.

I've done some reading on the FRAM filters, caps are made of cardboard and glued in place, the valves are made of plastic, and they have poor materials in the filter material itself.
Linky

/End Bitching About FRAM.
//Wont be using FRAM anymore.

wow! you must have a magic oil filter! Your engine has oil pressure even when its off! Where can I get one? Some filters including fram synthetic have an anti-drainback valve to hold oil in the filter after shut off, this helps you make oil pressure more quickly on start up. The oil in your head drains down to the pan when the pump is off. You do not have oil pressure in your head. The by-pass valve crap above is new to me also. The by-pass valve only opens when the filter media is so dirty the oil cannot flow freely through the filter causing a pressure drop. I would rather have unfiltered oil on my bearings than starving them of oil, wouldnt you?

There is more than one valve on good quality oil filters ;), smart ass take a better look . There is no pressure per say, but it does stop oil from draining back as quik by holding the oil in the filter and in turn pumping it to the head quikly on start up, as apose to draining the oil back in the pan..

I'm not sure what type of pump is on our DSM's so i don't know if it will hold any pressure once the pump is off.

But this "anti-drainback" valve is a simple one-way check valve. So if the pump does hold pressure, it will maintain this pressure preventing cleaned oil from draining backward.

However, if the pump does not hold any pressure, then this check valve would simply hold a bit of oil in the engine as the pressure is lost through the pump. Not sure if there is any significant effect.

The bypass valve only opens at certain pressure. From looking around it's around 8-17psi. It opens during cold start up, when launching, or when your filter element is clogged.

Filter element is rated based on surface area and it's filter. aparently, most are 20-25 micron rated (including Wix/NAPA). Mobil 1 is 10-12. I think that's what I will stick to when I start changing my own oil.

Robert you should read the info on the site I provided.

"Some WIX full-flow filters include anti-drainback and/or filter by-pass valves. These types of filters are identical to full-flow filters, except that a by-pass valve replaces the inner element support and an anti-drainback valve has been added. The Anti-Drainback Valve prevents oil from draining out of the filter inlet holes when the engine is shut off. It also provides seal between clean and dirty oil at the upper end cap. This is necessary in applications where the oil filter is mounted in a horizontal or inverted position"


The point is that if you are going to be paying money for a filter, why would you support a company that uses substandard material when producing one of the most important components of your engine.

In the past I have cut open filters to inspect them after an oil change, and you would not believe what happens to the inside of a fram filter after 5000km.


http://www.wixfilters.com/productinformation/gff_oilfilters.html

Malcom, you should take a better look! I just went over both types of valves in my previous post! I wont dignify your childish name calling with a response. Im just trying to clear up the bullshit info you gave.

check out the fram website and check out the synthetic filter I mentioned. They also offer racing filters that they use on their top fuel dragster. The link for wix didnt work for me? If I learn that they are crap I will reconsider. I have also cut many filters in half, never found any problem. Im not going to go by rumours.

Fram is garbage

I'm sorry Rob if I offended you, I did not meen to, but I didn't give bullshit, you took the word pressure in a different context, relax my oil filter isn't magic smart a$$. I guess you did mention the two valves!, the by-pass valve is also used during the cold season on start up, FYI...

Robert, don't be a dick.

There's absolutely nothing wrong with Fram filters, and tons of people use them (even NASCAR, although they don't use them for more than 500 miles a go. ). Most of our research stems from people that have methodically cut apart the filters side by side, and done tests on them over time.

Nothing wrong with the bypass filter failing open a little early. I'd just rather spend my money on a filter that is doing the most FILTERING for me over the life of the oil. Today's oils will probably ensure that you'll never have a problem running your Fram Synthetic filters.

Hell, maybe they've improved on their design since then. But I'd doubt it...

I never knew an oil change could be soo complicated.
Castrol gtx 10w30 here. I guess no one uses an OEM MITSU FILTER anymore ? I do.