ok so after putting the new head back on my car and, this is what the engine sounds like. Is this the lifters? the lifters were blead down, it sounds horrible, so i just want to confirm that it is the lifters and not something major.

video

Doesn't really sound like lifters but it is hard to tell from video. Lifter tick should go away once the engine starts to warm up.

ya but the lifters were blead down, so i dont how long it would take for them to fill again.

did the lifters make noise before? how long did you let the engine run after the lifters were put back in?

flush the oil- look for anything suspicious (color of fluid,metal particles etc)

can you pinpoint the noise to a certain area?

It's hard to tell from the video but if it gets noticeable worse when you increase rpm then it's likely a bearing.

How's the oil pressure? No oil light and the gauge is normal?

Turn the car on, open your oil cap and shine a light in there, see if there's oil flowing around.

It's coming from the head, but it doesn't sound that bad, maybe harder to tell from the video.

i opened the oil cap their is oil coming up, my oil pressure is about 80psi on start up, i unhooked accessory belts and it still does it. noise gets louder as rpm increase, sounds like its coming from the timing area but i dont know what could be causing it. i was having prob with the tranny but it doesnt sound like its the transmission.

If the timing belt tension is wrong, or the tensioner is broken, the tensioner arm will slap against the tensioner and sound like a sewing machine.
You'd also see the belt flapping around more than normal between the cam gears.

Whats your method of tensioning the t-belt ?
Almost sounds like its related to that !

Edit: Rob beat me to it

well the belt isnt slapping around, i use roll pins and a screw driver to pri and then tightened the tenisoner pulley, then pulled the auto tensioner pin, checked tension 15min later and i could almost put the pin back in the tenisoner which means tensioner is almost perfect. both auto tensioner and pully are pretty much new.

But do you spin the engine by hand 6 crank revolutions after you pull the pin?

The manual states you pull the pin, wait 15 minutes, rotate the engine by hand 6 revolutions then check your tension.

Also, did you torque the bolt to spec?

well i followed the faq section which is 1/4 turn counter clock wise then clock wise till timing marks are alined, then crank it until the timing marks line up twice then let sit for 15mins. bolt i just tightened as much as i can since i cant get a torque wrench in their.

Pull the pin (should slide out easily, if not then retension), spin engine over 6 times. Then wait 15 minutes, Then the pin should slide back in. If not then retension.

If you got these right, run the engine with the t belt covers off and pinpoint where the noise is coming from. Something is bottoming out, or touching in that area.

reza if the pin almost goes back in then tension is almost perfect. It doesnt have to be perfect, theirs also a spec if you look at the faq section where it states in can be out a certain spec, where you check with a feeler gauge or drill bit, ive had it where the pin didnt go in and the tension was within spec. Can anyone confirm that the Kevlar timing belt is directional or not? theirs arrows on it pointing to the greddy sign?

All I can hear is oil pump gears in that vid, you'd almost think you have the 6-bolt straight cut 90' style oil pump gears in there with no b-shafts from the sound of it.

I'd double check timing marks and tension again & again..

could it be the harmonic balancer on the crank pulley? I take it i cant take it off and run th car without it. is their anyway to tell if its the cause of the noise.

You could run it without the crank pulley and accessory belts, just don't let it get too hot.

ok well i can take the crank pulley off and see if its the pulley itself thats making the noise but if not then i dont know what it is.

well i think i figured out the problem. The timing belt is slightly touching the tensioner arm. Like i have no clue why, this is starting to get stupid. The guy i bought the engine from must have been retarded, from what i can see ive got a 1g7bolt auto tensioner, with a 2g tensioner pulley and 6bolt tensioner arm and whatever mount. Now i dont know why the belt is touching this mount, since it wasn't before. Like the only thing i can think of doing is taking some tension off the belt, since the auto tensioner pin cant slide back in.

The auto tensioner will keep the belt tension right where it is, until you adjust the tensioner pulley out of the auto tensioner's adjustment range.

This will result in bent valves sooner, or later.

I think the only way you're going to get this to all work properly is find out what block you're running, and get the proper, associated parts. Or, get out the angle grinder and start "clearancing" some stuff.

well i dont understand why its touching right now because as far as i know it wasn't before. Does anyone know how to identify a 1g 7bolt block? second is their a 1g 7bolt tensioner arm and tensioner pulley? Because i am almost positive that i am correct on the parts that i see before me, the auto tensioner i got from ziggy and was a 1g 7bolt due to me breaking the other one, the tensioner arm looks like a 6bolt from pics ive seen on tuners. The tensioner pulley is a 2g because the way you turn it counterclockwise to tension, and the mount i have no clue i had to grind down my 97 mount to fit because the one that came with the engine would not bolt up to my motor mount.

there is a 7 bolt tensioner arm and pulley. Both are specific to a 7 bolt. Ryan send me a few pictures of all the parts and the block. I'll see if I can help you out and identify the parts. This is starting to become ridiculous.

i pmd u the pics. also you are incorrect on the tensioner pulley the 1g7bolt and 1g 6bolt are the same pulley.

Ryan the tensioner pulleys are different, i'm not sure where you got the info from stating that they are the same.

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=21147&cat=865&page=1 ---90-94 MD129355

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=18429&cat=865&page=1 95-99 MD182537

From the pictures I am going to say you either picked up a non-turbo or turbo 92.5-94 7 bolt engine but I am leaning more towards the non-turbo.

I have to agree with Ryan on this one. The first tensioner pulley you posted there, MD129355 is for '90 - '94, which means it is for BOTH 1g 6 bolt AND 1g 7 bolt.

thanks ziggy i seen it on your site acutally. question do you know if they tensione the same way, by tension the same way i mean to tension the belt you turn the pin holes clock wise. the 2g i know is counterclock wise. the reason im asking is because im not sure what tensioner pulley i have now, it tensions counterclock wise.

Ziggy you are correct about the fact that MD129355 is for '90 - '94, however he is not using the 1g 7 bolt bracket that came with the engine.

He is using the 2g bracket and this is throwing off the belt.

If it were me I would sell the engine and just start with a 6 complete 6 bolt.

by bracket do you mean motor mount or do u mean the pulley? i am using a 2g tensioner pulley. i just thought about that the 1g6 and 7bolt is the same tensioner pulley and it tension clockwise, mine tensions counterclockwise. so i can confirm right their that the tensioner pulley is wrong if i have the 1g7bolt block. also the tensioner arm looks to be a 6bolt does anyone know if the 1g 7bolt is the same as the 6bolt aswell?

I really wonder why you still think you have a 1g 7 bolt motor.
From the previous pictures you have posted, you have a 2g block, which is pretty apparent as the crank angle sensor is right there next to the crank sticking out like a sore thumb.

I guess you just don't want to believe it

well i did put the crank angle sensor their from my old engine, i dont know if their would be a spot on a 1g 7bolt or not. But if it is so apparent that it is a 2g 7bolt block then why when i put all 2g 7bolt components on does the belt run off while cranking by hand?

No, there would not be a place for the crank angle sensor on a 1g 7 bolt motor, as much as you want to believe it. You have a 2g block, surprise!

You are obviously doing something wrong, I could help you out and figure out your problem, but it seems like you want something else to be in there than what you obviously have.

I find this timing belt n related crap too easy

FYI,
1g 7 bolt blocks do not use a crank angle sensor. Look for the obvious, crank angle sensor on valve cover or not ?

I really don't think it is that hard.

Reza;

Correct me if I'm wrong, however the Crank angle sensor bolts to the front case, not the block itself. It's entirely possible he has a 1G 7 bolt block with a 2G Front Case, no?

Ryan got the serial # off the block. I was hoping Rob strelecki could tell from that what it was, but apparently he has no way to look that up.

If anyone else might now, the serial # is PC9586

Serial numbers only give us the date/place of manufacturing. We need part numbers.

MD329509 - Engine - Cylinder block
Cylinder block, eclipse, w/turbo, to 4/3/97 - 2.0l 1995 - 1997

MD350925 - Engine - Cylinder block
Cylinder block, eclipse, w/turbo, from 5/1/97 - 2.0l 1997 - 1999

If the 2g front case bolted up to the 1g 7 bolt then why use 1g 7 bolt parts ? The 2g parts will work just fine in that case.
There would not be an issue.

Why not just verify that you don't have a crank angle sensor on the valve cover, and thus believe that the block is a 2g ?

In fact I still think the whole motor is a regular 2g motor, that needs regular 2g parts.

Also I don't use the measuring drill bits method for setting tension, its crap! If the pin goes back in and can spin freely, its good. No in between.

Ryan where can i find that part number? Reza heres a link to a thread on dsm tuners where i posted the engine before it was put in the car u can clearly tell the whole engine is not a 2g.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/273382-6bolt-7bolt-non-turbo.html

Ok, so here's what it looks like to me.

You have a 2G 7 bolt bottom end. It's turbo, the oil squirters on a 2G Turbos were different than the 1G's, they were built right into the block, and looked nothing like 1G oil squirters.

You have a 2G Front Case, you can clearly see where the 2 10mm bolts go for the Crank Angle Sensor, however it looks like you don't have the timing pickup tin (Goes between the Timing sprocket and B/S sprocket on the crank).

You also have a 1G 7 bolt engine mount bracket/timing belt tensioner arm, making this very difficult.

Reza, Rob, confirm/deny my findings.

So with further pics and proof, it does look like a late 1g head, but the block is a 2g, as I mentioned. So the head has nothing to do with your your timing belt, no need to worry about that now.

Even after the tooners post, I'm surprised your still thinking its a 1g 7 bolt botom end.

So you have a 2g block. 2g timing belt stuff, 2g tensioner and related parts, set the tension right, and you should be fine.

I don't know what else to tell you.

Really I hate to see all this fucked up ness and confusion. If you would bring your car and all related t-belt parts to my house, I would just LOVE to fix your car for free

Fixed that for you.

I just skimmed throught this thread & this may not be an issue but thought I would mention, aren't there two different (believe its the tensioner pulley?) for the 2g's? I believe theres a 95-96 & then a 97-99 version. They have the lips on opposite sides or something like that. Since it sounds like your having issues with the belt staying on, sounds like this could possibly be a cause if your not running the correct one?

Edit: I know the specifics are in the vfaq somewhere as I just recall something about this from a couple years back when I did my TB.

Well, aren't we just the special one for hitting the nail on the head.

I did my timing belt this weekend and did read about that as well.

CAPS only shows one part number, where are you reading this?

I get a Part Selection Screen for different years. Everything for the 2G blocks (94.5-99).

I use 50G, D33A and type in "Block". First thing that comes up is "Block Cylinder Assy". When you hit F2 on it, it shows the diagram, click "ok" and I get a screen that shows different part numbers for the variations between the years.

OK, but a block is not a pulley...
Try PNC 03158 (PULLEY,TIMING BELT TENSIONER), there is only one for all years
And the idler only changed once, at the end of '89...

Yes, but the tensioner arm (The part the pulley bolts on to) is different, is it not? Caps doesn't give me a part number.

^^^
True, but I think Daren was talking about the pulley.



//edit
Actually, CAPS says the arm is 1G/2G specific.
So I don't know what difference in the 2G years you guys are talking about.

I just looked at the vfaq to check out the specifics & looks like this won't be the issue. Its the BS belt that is listed with having two different tension pulleys, not the main tensioner pulley.

Darren,

could you maybe post a link to those part numbers? I also show only one balance belt tensioner for each of 1g and 2g...

Only place I show a difference is in the hydraulic tensioner itself. There is one for early '95 only, then another for the rest of 2g.

Looks like they changed the part numbers over the years, but all I get on JNZ tuning's website as well as CAPS is a B/S pulley for anything 2.4L... I'm pretty sure they have the same B/S though.

ok thanks for your help guys.