Ok so before I had a problem with it popping out of 5th gear. I took the side cover off and sure enough the large nut had come loose. I tightened it above spec (100ft/lbs) to about 110-115ft/lbs (maybe 120ft-lbs max)and staked the nut in place. Anyways. drove the car for about 1-2 weeks max.

The problem was that it was gradually getting harder and harder to get into gear. I bled the clutch slave but that is not the issue. There is no
It got to the point where I had to start it in gear to move.

My question is that is it possible that because I over-torqued it by 10-20 ft/lbs could that have caused the syncros not to line up anymore causing hard engagement of the gears?
This problem started to happened after I fixed the 5th gear issue.

All the parts below were replaced previous to the engagement issue and I do not think they are the reason.


New clutch master, ss flex line, custom slave rod, pp, used friction disk,

If you know for sure that would be great help.

Please no speculation.

Ps I'm sick of fixing this car

Asking someone to "know for sure" and no speculation based on an internet diagnosis is asking a little much...

I was hoping that someone with intimate knowledge of the inner workings of the transmission; Along with the knowledge of tolerances and the consequences would be able to shed some light on it.

If I overtightened it by 10-20ft'lbs would it shift one of the shafts over causing the syncros not to align properly thus making it impossible to shift gears.

The easiest thing would be to loosen the bolt and retighten it to exact spec but the problem I'm thinking about is that it may not re-align right away and I'd still be searching for the cause even though I may have fixed it.

It drove perfect for 1 week (350kms) then gradually got worse over the course of another week/ week and a half.

How many K's on the trany ?

Is it hard to get into 5th & reverse or all gears?

I don't think that over torquing that nut would cause hard shifting.

Warning: Speculation!!!
Perhaps both problems are not related. You said the master cylinder was replaced recently. Maybe the nut on the adjustment rod has come loose and is gradually undoing itself. The results would be the same as you're experiencing now.

It is also winter and the flange is very low on the car, takes a bit of snow or somthing hiting it, and you got a crak in the hydro line going to the slave cylinder. Now that mark mentioned it I had the same problem a few times. Mostly my own falt having fun in a parking lott lol.
Get some one to pump your clutch.. alott then look for leaking Dot 3 at the cylinder. Other then it having lots of K's wear and tear it's all I can think of !

It's impossible to get into gears now while the car is running.
the clutch disk is not disengaging enough to shift. (I believe)
(the reason why I had to start it in 1st gear and then shift gears by matching rpms.

All the parts listed where replaced over the course of 2-3yrs as I've constantly had transmission related problems)

I've had the tranny out 4 times and am getting tired of doing it on the ground bench pressing it.

what kind of pressure plate do you have?

I had the exact same issues with my sbr3500. Redid the whole clutch system and the thing would still try to take off with the clutch to the floor. I had to start in first and have to rev mactch when down shifting. It was so bad the clutch disc didnt last much more then 3 months. When I put a stock pp back in and stock disc, it worked fine.

I had the 5th gear issue while I had that clutch it. It blew out the dif when we had the tranny off I changed clutch and put a new tranny in. It only started with the new clutch though. Never had issues before.

EDIT: sorry to speculate, Just thought I should throw my 2 cents at the fountain.

I have a spec pressure plate. with a factory N/T friction disk that's worn down atleast 50%. (it was the only one I could find on short notice) I drove with it like this for maybe 1000km.

I was thinking of transferring the motor and trans over to a car in better shape than mine. If I do then I'd change teh friction disk and look into what else might be causing the shifting issue.
The last thing I want to do is the swap and then find out the trans is screwed up internally. (that's why I'm asking if anyone knows for sure what the consequences are about overtorquing the nut)