Well I figured I need to give Mike Leclerc some friendly competition for this summer, so I may as well share my progress aswell.

Here's the car for those that don't know


I have been starting off fairly slow, as I need to hear an "OK" from the powers above before I start on the power plant, but this is what I have so far:

Basically everything in the front end I want new.
So I got:
-Balljoints
-Tie Rod Ends
-Wheel bearings + seals
-sway bar end links
-And a Poly Bushing set for the front end

Sand Blasted front subframe


Painted with Poly bushings


Shitty old control arms


Stuff ready to get put together



Control arms on


The subfram was a perfect candidate to practice with my new welder, so try and ignore the practice welds

I will keep this updated.

MK

About time you posted something!!!

Nice!

Nice is right...that car looks like a twin to mine!

Very clean looking and the rims suit it so well.Oh happy bday Will.

Ahh, I really love 1ga's. Nice job.

Good Job! Keep it up

Now that's some nice work there! Keep it up, and the bottom of your car will be cleaner than the top!

For true DSMer the bottom is more important then the top.

Didn't do much tonight,

Cleaned up my steering rack. I really wanted a new one but oh well.

Tomorrow I am going to get new lines for it.


Here is a couple other things laying around.
hks 272 replicas



6bolt 4g64 crank, I need to take that away someday too.



Thats all for now.
MK

Nice rack mike!

why thank you

make sure none of the rusted parts are going back!

Just try to imagine it without all the dust/grinding chunks all over it.
And I am going to have to do something about those nasty looking struts..





Just got these in the mail today....

wow! That is deep! Keep posting pics!

Hey, nice evo springs, I got me a set too.

thx. I was wondering when someone point out what they were.
I hope they work out.

2.4 block and crank is off to the machine shop.
Guh... I'm so far behind.....

damn all that wiring ... !!

It should be very neat when I am done.
All the stubs are not being used anymore. and most of the long wires to the right are going to be cut aswell.
Everything else to the left is for the engine.

I got a nice 15pin connector off a Jbody. That should run all my engine sensors/wires, minus the alternator and oil sending unit wires at the front.
So everything can be easily disconnected at that one plug.

So I sorta lost the urge to be displaying everything about my car on the interweb.....

I havent taken off my 2600 for the past 3 years when I put it on. Took it off, and found this:



Every crack you can see I can feel with my fingernail. fubared!

Got the wheel bearings pressed in and car is back on 4 legs.
Waiting for the word on the damn machine shop so I can order my bottom end.

Next is taking out the pedal assembly and getting rid of that inch of slop in the clutch..... I am picking up a 24 for that one. so excited

Looking good man hope you get her done!

I'm getting there.
-Clutch pedal is welded
-I started tearing down my head last night to get it surfaced.

Seems Like no one stocks 6 bolt 2.4 pistons, not even Magnus. And Wiseco isn't doing a batch until mid May.
Zigster thankfully found me a solution.

sh!t tonne of parts to come.

I thought JE had some 2.4L pistons with the 21mm pin. Aside from machining the rods what solution would you have? Though I'm sure Ziggy hooked you up just fine.

Yes, Manley is customizing a set of rods to use the 7 bolt pistons

I was unable to find any ON THE SHELF anywhere. JE might make them.....but no-one has them (that I could find). They are a stock part number at Wiseco also, but none available until May...

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=21498&cat=1098&page=1

Hmm, well it states ships in 4-7 days, so I suppose they might not have them in stock. Well it's good that a rod set is coming right from Manley.

Like Ziggy said, there was none, Anywhere.
I called: Punishment, Magnus, DsmGraveyard, VR Speed Factory.
Ziggy tried all his connections.

I found a set on Ebay, but they were going to be about 600US when they hit the boarder with the slowest shipping. And they ship UPS. So I would have to make SURE to order some lube with that, for when I pay the brokerage fees.
Not to mention its EBAY.

Can't wait

When Extreme posts "ships in 4-7 days", that means he does not stock them. That means he either orders them in as ordered, or gets the supplier to ship DIRECTLY to the customer. He has NO way of knowing IF they are in stock at any given point in time. I just ordered in a turbo from him that "ships in 4-7 days", but it is going to be at least three weeks. He doesn't advise that until after the order is placed and he finds the inventory status at the suppliers
Also, for the record, if it says "on order", he is waiting for more stock, and if it say "out of stock" he is not sure if he will be getting more or not, or at least he knows it will be quite a while until he gets more..

I feel sick...

Motors finally going back tonight for machining.

I am trying to find some NEW connectors/pigtails for my TPS, 91+ Cam sensor, and possibly injectors.

Anyone know where I can find some of these?

Are you actually looking for Brand NEW connectors? Regardless consider switching to something like the 2g-style injector connectors - so much better and you don't have any of those stupid metal clips to lose.

Grumpy Update:
Machine shop told me they CAN do a MLS gasket as that was the first question I asked when I walked in there. But I don't think he knows what that means, or understand the surface I am expecting, as there is only a surface ginder there. (I read it has to be milled) He said they couldn't measure or show me the surface finish of what the gasket calls for right on the package, because "the tools cost too much and no one has them"
Guy said that the surface grinder is fine for the little boost I will be running.....??(I told him built for 40 but running 30ish)

I asked him if that was gauranteed to seal but then the truth came out and he said oh I dunno.... I dont do much of these little motors, you can listen to your books or the internet, or listen to me.

So I am now on the quest for a new machinist/milling machine...


Charles, Yes I am looking for new plugs. Injectors I think will be easy to find as even Summit has some that should work. Magnus makes the swap harnesses with new CAS plugs, so I will ask them where they source them. The only thing left I think is the TPS... if anyone can help with that one?

Mike,

For the record, a surface grinder gives a MUCH better finish than a milling machine! A mill will ALWAYS leave tiny scratches from the individual cutting tips.

A mill is more useful for removing larger amounts of metal, but the surface grinder will give a finer finish.

oh, I got my info from here.....

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/303225-engine-machine-work-explained.html


"Another machine is the surface grinder, not a bad machine, it keeps the head leveled and indexed, it uses segmented stones. The surface finish is not smooth enough most of the time for MLS gaskets, The finish is dependent on what stones, how well dressed they are, spindle speed and table speed. Still very common in shops

The new boy on the block is a High speed Milling machine, these use a .500 (1/2) inch insert, CBN for cast Iron and CBN for alum. for the most part, as far I as know, have been around about 10 years. smaller shops are slow on getting them due to there cost, But without a doubt give the best surface finish. Some machines, Like the comec I use, have variable rate spindle speed and variable rate table feed rates. This will alow for diffrent surface finishes for diffrent gaskets"

No automotive machine shop is going to have a high speed machining CNC to use for surface finishing. Take internet info for a grain a salt. That info above isn't the greatest.

CBN is the next hardest material to diamond. There doing something right if there at least using that. But it all comes down to care and preperation for the finish out come. Just let them know that your concerned about the surface quality and will be checking upon pick up. Usually thats enough to get the guy to put extra care into the quality.

I have an ANSI surface panel sample to compare to judge the surface quality.

I wrote a huge paper in university on surface finish so its a bit of my expertise Ra isn't all it cracked up to be.

I took my stuff to another place today and the guy seemed to have the same attitude when I said it needs to be between 30-50Ra. He said it doesnt matter, and his machine can do 50-70 and it will work fine. (I sorta feel like a douche now, but at least he could give me numbers on the finish)

After I asked a few more questions, I could tell he had the look on his face of "Shut up Kid, I Know What I'm Doing"

So I left it with him, and even though it's an hour away, I can get the boring, surfacing, align hone, and balancing all done at the same place.

I will be shootin up Thursday if anyone wants to join

Well that kit was too good to be true....

Mike,
that info on surface finishes was wrong. I think even the BEST high RPM CNC milling machine is going to have a tough time getting as good a surface finish as a mediocre surface grinder..

Segmented wheels? Not sure where this guy gets his info? Maybe on a Blanchard grinder which is a bit of a dinosaur. Any decent reciprocating grinder will give you a better finish than milling...

Sounds like your engine is in good hands

I guess reading can only get me so far.
I knew when i seen a block welded back together, and couple thousand hp drag motor sitting there that my stuff was in the right hands.

This is my first time doing this. ANY feedback is welcomed.

Got a call from the shop and he has a problem and I need some help.
I brought in 2 heads one was messed from the guide removal(oops)
The other was an additional spare I had.
He measured the spots where the cams sit, and he said that they are off quite a bit(I forget the measurement). And when he puts a straight edge on it, you can actually rock it back and forth.(This happens with both heads)

He is wondering if when you torque the head down, the cam spots will even out?
He said he has a e-mail into some other places, and wants me to check into it aswell.

Anyone else run into this problem?

both of my spare heads are screwed. FAK me

Got a 3rd head from a local guy and the cam journal was spun on it.
Double fak me...

Mike, will a 7 bolt/2g head do?

I started assembling my bottom end.
Even though my block was align honed I decided to Plasti gauge it anyways.


Then I couldn't believe my eyes, so I decided to do it again. and this fracking happened.



I was on the 3rd step of torquing them down. I did 40, 60, then I flipped it on to 80 and 2 of them started to spin too easily. Finally one cracked. at maybe 65ft lbs?? another one is defiantly stretched.

I want to know HOW THE frack they expected ANYONE to torque those down to 120ft lbs using motor oil, when I cant even get to 80 with the lube...

So
-3 of my heads have been bad,
-my mains have clearance issues,
-and I just broke some arp main studs for no damn reason.
I got another set on the way, but I am thinking of putting this bullshit on hold...

Mike, I am not sure what the torque specs are, but I KNOW it is a lot LOWER with the lube than with motor oil,,,,,

If they are supposed to be 120 with motor oil, they are probably only supposed to be around 80ft.lbs with the lube...

Mike,

I just opened a package to check the torque specs...supposed to be done in three equal steps to SIXTY ft/lbs...

my instructions say 80

are these the main studs or the head studs?

So for the record, they are mains, and looks like i got the wrong instructions in my box. They will be getting a call today.

Somehow, ARP put instructions for 12mm studs into the box with 10mm studs. They are replacing the studs....new ones are on their way to Mike with the CORRECT instructions....

and Ziggy rules.

Plus one!

Well head #4 seemed to be the lucky one....
I am finally making progess. and I am quite broke I hope to have it sitting in the car by the end of the week.











[img]http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t175/II_Sp1kE_II/Front%20end%20Rebuild/IMG_0128.jpg[/img]

My Build Is Looking Good Keep At It Mike And Get Some Paint On That Block

Yes your build is looking good, lol.
Jeff has been my goto msn guru, and a handfull of ideas/parts were his choosing.

The block is painted . its "cast iron" I figure I would stick with its roots.

Its coming along nicely Mike. Keep up the good work

Thanks Rob I hope it pays off

Forgot to mention, that with the new arp's and the right torque on the mains, the plastigauge turned out perfect.

I got the head all assembled tonight, and frost plugs in.
I went to do the timing belt and realized that the G4CS Crank sprocket does not work. I beleive it has the same amount of teeth, but it has a lip on the timing cover side. The SOHC belt is slightly smaller, and this lip does not allow the 4g63/4g64 DOHC belt to sit in there. So I tried to pull the crank sprockets off my original motor, but after 2 hours of hitting it with an impact, and putting all my weight on it with a johnson bar, it would not budge. So for tonight, I am stuck and pissed. Would a 2g crank sprocket happen to be the same as a 1g?

The 1G and 2G sprockets are the same.

Take care of that wiring before you put it in. You'll thank me or curse me later.

he he, thanks Tim I will be yelling your name when I'm doing it . Ps happy birthday.

I made some progress. This sh!t takes longer than I thought.
I ended up cutting off my crank bolt to get the timing sprocket off.



Cam gear timing marks are rotated half a tooth Clockwise to compensate for the 6mm higher deckheight on the g4cs/4g64.(as per a post on tuners) And a DOCH 4g64 timing belt is used.
I just threw on my 2.0 timing cover. The top few bolts need to be left out, again because of the 6mm taller deck height. (I don't think there is a solution for this?)
Also another odd thing I ran into. I wanted to reuse the 2.4 n/t water pipe, and noticed that the mounting bracket for the block is about a half inch closer to the pump. So the oring would not seat fully in the water pump. I notched out the mounting hole to slide the pipe all the way into the pump, and still mount it to the block.

Looks good and clean. Reminds me of mines on the stand except for the forward oil filter.
What did you torque the L19's to ?

Thanks,
I put them to 80. Will that be good?

I did mines to 110 ft lbs with moly the other day. A1's and Felpro 1153-1 . Was at 110 ft lbs last year as well.

If you don't feel comfortable going that high, I would suggest minimum 95 ft lbs.

wholy balonge... 95 it is.

Reza, your nuts.

It's coming together Mike, good to see especially after the few issues you had.

I retorqued the L19's to 100, boy that was nerve racking especially after breaking my mains.
Reza, If I decide to pull the head off one day, have you reused that Headgasket?

And boy, I need a new valve cover... I think I will have to call Mr. Brightside one day...

Hopefully the motor will be in today.

I don't mean to hijack your thread with my pic but I told you it reminds me of mines

Get a new HG if you decide to take it off. The tacky material comes off. You shouldn't reuse a headgasket anyways.

Brings a tear to my eye.

Beautiful builds guys.

Damn I wish I had the cash flow to do this.

I'd love to do a full rebuild of my engine and car...at least the engine bay.

Hahaha, oh man, same engine stand and all, thats freaking great.

Engines in

I didn't notice the fuel rail until now. VERY slick. Are you going to be using the butterflies in the cyclone?

not using the butterflies.
The manifold was made by Jeff White, it was all taken apart, including the end of the plenum, with the butterflies removed and the whole thing was ported.
The second set is going to be activated around 10psi by my megasquirt. so i will only have 450's running while cruising around town.
Last year I tried running all of them all the time but had idle problems. I will see if that is fixed this year.

SO. I am happy I forgot to put in cam seals because when I pulled the valve cover, I noticed I am missing the little cap that gives you access to the oil ports in the head. I checked ALL 3 other heads that I brought to the machine shop along with the parts boxes they gave me back and they were all missing! SUPER pissed.

The little cap ?
I think your talking about the hydraulic lash adjusters oil regulator.

Bingo, that would be it. Now I can feel smart when I call them up. Thx

I'm on a Kiggly HLA
http://www.kigglyracing.com/parts/HLA_Pressure_Regulator.htm

Ah for sh!t sakes Reza I may have to, just to keep our builds looking like twins.
Only difference, I will probally run a 12.9 or some garbage. Being I found out that the machine shop that did the work on my motor does FP's motors. GUH

So after a frusterating month.
-I got a new pan to fix an oil leak.
-My stainless oil feed acted as a ground when my starter grounded out, and melted the rubber on the inside. so I got a new one.
-My balance shaft plug leaked
-And now I think I figured out my shitty idle, I pulled my manifold to fix an exhaust leak, and port 3 and 4 were wet with fuel. So I am pretty sure my injectors are leaking.
-On the plus side I took her for a little rip and 9psi feels great I wonder what 30 will feel like.

Next step is injectors + etest...
Then it is time to spank leclerc

Anyone got a good working set of 390's?

Taking tips from Christine huh?!?!?!

Lovin' it! LMAO

ya ya and she screams your name while in bed with me too..... guhhhhh

I am going slow and steady. Lots of problems that I have overcome. I guess I am looking at next year...

I got this done last night. It barely fit. But that means no more rice-ass apillar pod.

That's a nice clean install there good work! I assume it's a WB O2 display?

Nothing but

Yeah I didn't think you'd spend that kind of time just to find out if your narrowband sensor worked or not I have the NGK AGX wideband, so it's a big jesus display sitting on top of the steering wheel, someone asked me if it was a taxi meter, ha-ha

Ya I heard those are more accurate then the aem...
but I guess I will work with what I got..

I never got on the road this year.(legally)
After I blew up my first MS, 2 years aga and rebuilt it, I think something is still not right, and the car never ran right.

I broke down and got got a new one:

-MS2
-8 injector Sequential, staged injection
-Meth pump trigger
-Launch control
-GM Flex Fuel sensor ready (if we ever get e85)
-4bar MAP
-New harness(ripping all the stock sh!t out.

The guy building it for me is out of Quebec.
He is still working on testing the staged injection with the newest code.
Should be a real treat

When will you finally listen to me and get DSMLink!!! I thought you got MS in the first place because of all the money you would save...

Coming from the guy who doesn't own DSMlink. and has 4 dsm's none of which are road worthy.

Own three and two are road worthy (The spyder only came off the road because I bought the IS250). One just needs to have a broken bolt removed and replaced because someone who was helping removing my tranny forgot to tell me they loosen a very important bolt, one that holds an axel support... lol And why do I need DSMLink when I have the wonderful 98 ECU in both of my 2g

Oh I forgot about the 96, that is the brother project and you know that thing is like the day it rolled out of the Normal, Illinois plant so it is also road worthy

Quit filling the interweb with crap. homo

So all winter I have kept quiet and been collecting parts. Getting ready for alot of changes.
I have had this design in my head for awhile and I finally put it all together.
I guess I can let the cat out of the bag.

-I switched to a water to air intercooler setup with a much shorter intake route
-I got some new high imp injectors 650cc mains 1150cc secondaries(just incase we get E85)
-Got some fancy HKS timing gears
-Switched to a -12an drain setup for the Holset
-Snaged a koni/oldschool DSS Coilover setup and addred some upper camber plates.
-and finally...... I jumped on the Compound Turbo band wagon. with a 16g and hy35 for now.

Pics:

looking good mike, i guess this means im going to have to get off my arse and update my build thread too eh? do you have a finish date in mind yet?

That holset cold side looks amazing

Hmm forward-facing(done cheap) and half(or honda-sized) rad. I like it - I have a feeling you may yield some good results.

If it ever makes it out of the garage!!!!!!!!!!!
Problem is, he has a girl that's out of his league taking up all his free time

Love is for pussies, Mike!!!!!

looks good

Thanks,
I hope to have the car started about a week after I get my final bit of parts. I am not too sure, it will happen when it happens. I still gotta finish the re-re-wire and hope everything works how I want.

One of my regrets building this is I should have put the second wastegate exit pipe right beside where the first wastegate dumps back into the exhaust stream. I have a little bottle kneck there now...
I may have to make a version 2.0

awesome set up! come a long way since I last seen it.

Any updates on this?

I parted it out.
The shell went to someone local.
The motor and most of the goodies went to a sleeper colt project.

Watch the Classifieds for the leftovers!

That's balls.

sh!t happens

JUST KIDDING!

I did lose almost ALL motivation though, I have barely worked on it.

I got the car running, It had a nasty miss, so I ordered some new wires. Then before I got my wires, I picked up a JMF intake with a Q45 TB and with a second set of injector bungs. I tore it all apart to fit the intake.
I also got a Tial 50mmQ BOV and have some Avid mounts waiting for me at RTM.

So now the car is back into construction mode while I rejigg the fuel lines, IAT sensor, and wiring.

But here is the pics! (sorry for quality)

I was almost pissed off for a second. Can't wait to see this thing running.

^ X2, I was like WTF!