So if you guys remember, my car was making the most retarded squealing noise out of my BOV recirc tube. I was tired of it, so I bought a GM MAFT to eliminate that whole intake pipe.

I brought it to someone who knows a lot about these cars, and someone a good buddy of mine trusted to do quality work.

It was running perfectly fine up until yesterday night, after the install. A little lifter tick, and a tick from a small exhaust leak I have at one of the manifold studs - but still running and boosting fine. Originally, the maf sensor I bought from a guy on Tuners (never again will I go to that site) was bad, so he gave me his to put in. The car was running PIG RICH under boost, and hitting fuel cut. After the new sensor was in, I could get boost, but it still didn't sound 'right'. The car sounds very "air-ey" But I was told that is normal, considering I don't have the intake pipe attached to my turbo anymore.

I didn't know what I was supposed to do as of now. He suggested that I just drive it home, and bring it back another day so he could fix the exhaust leak, and then I could bring it to Kevin K for a proper tune.

Within 30 seconds of getting onto the highway, and about a 5 minute drive from his place (without boosting at all), all I heard was BANG, *metal on metal* *clunk clunk*.

F*CK! Tossed it in neutral, rolled to the side of the highway, 4 ways on, and shut the car off. Popped the hood, and found this.

I'm pretty upset/frustrated/pissed off. How the hell could this happen? My timing belt was done when I had my 6bolt put in, no more than 20,000km ago and I had the balance shafts removed at that time as well.

So now I need a new head/head gasket and timing belt? What's the cost, in that and is anyone able to do the install for me?

Did you not have a cover on your T-belt? It might have picked up a left over tool or something of the sorts. More than likely you smacked ever single valve and you'll need new valves, and possibly new pistons.

I have the lower one in - not the upper. Was driving like that since I had the new engine put in and haven't had any problems.

If it's a left over tool, that's not acceptable to me. Even I don't make that mistake.

Oh NO! Take it appart and see what caused it!

One of the rocker/rollers came off, and another is about to come off (is that what it's called?). I don't really know what to look for. Waiting for the guy to come over and check it out.

Obviously it wasn't sitting on the top, it was between the two valve springs.

The part of the cam also looks a bit beat up.





Hmm..

A few years ago this happened to me also, I didn't have the upper cover on. A large stone managed to fly inside somehow, and took out the belt.

When you had the timing belt done, did you install a new Hydraulic tensioner? or did you just have the belt replaced?

That's always a possibility James. I'm not counting it out. But I went last summer, and a couple months into this summer and have been fine. Usually there aren't too many rocks on the highway.

And yes I bought a new hydraulic tensioner. Everything was new.

Wow that sucks Mike. Hope you find out what it was that caused the break. Also hope it doesn't rape your wallet to fix it.

Once all is fixed, get a new top timing cover, even one of the clear ones. Better safe then....well you know.

Id say the rocker coming off is from the damage to the valve, not what caused the belt to shred like that. For a belt to shred like that, id have to say that it was caused by friction of some sort.

The timing belt shredding looks like it did that when it slipped off the gears and continued turning with the crank for the few seconds it did. Our motors turn clockwise, which would explain why the shredding ended up where it did.

The rocker is normal in a timing belt failure.

It is quite unfortunate that this happened to you Mike. If need be, I have a spare motor I'd be willing to let go of for you, and willing to do the work if you can get the car up to me.

Good luck!

The guy said it looks like my oil pump seized, as there's a fair amount of oil leakage near the bottom of the engine. Meaning.. my engine might be toast. That's not what I wanted to hear.

Ryan, PM me more details about the motor as well as the cost and we can go from there.

You're familiar with Link too right? My car would need to be tuned after. I have v2.

Thanks

Holy smokes man, this is horrible news.

Your car's a beaut', I saw it in person.

Hope you get things worked out without too much money spent.

How the hell did your oil pump seize?

That's what I want to know. He doesn't know the answer.

Damn! Sorry to hear!! That doesn't look like it is going to be a cheap fix....

I have a complete 6bolt engine. Im not looking for much since it had blue smoke last time it ran (peckerhead). But it was still running good.

Thanks Joe, but I really want an engine that's running perfect to be dropped in.

No cover could have caused this , if the oil pump seized you'd know-> just spin it.

Did you remove the covers in that pic or was that how you ran it, 6-bolts have one big cover and a cap, perhaps it has the wrong oil pan bolt under the crank, from the looks of the belt.

I'm leaning towards what malcom said.

tear into it, spin the oil pump sprocket( like said above)

And look right in between the crank and oil pump sprocket to see if the oil pan bolt sticks up at all through the hole.

Out of all the oil pan bolts theres one that is shorter than the rest and needs to go into that hole.

Out of all the oil pan bolts theres one that is shorter than the rest and needs to go into that hole.[/quote]

If that was it, it would be on the other side of the belt.
I agree that you should pull the t/b cover and try to spin the oil pump spocket.

"other side of the belt" ?, what do you mean?, I thought the 1 short oil pan bolt lines up with the t-belt,.

Did the t-belt take out the cover aswell cause its not there., anything could have fallen into there though.

I think he means the oil pan bolt would dig into the belt on the inside (closer to the valve cover) while in Mike's pic it's worn on the other side (towards the motor mount).

In any case, it's all guesswork until that bottom cover comes off. Pay close attention to what may fall out!

Timing belt spaghetti!

It doesn't seem like its the oil pan bolt. The left side of the belt closest to the engine does not have a groove worn in it. It would be pretty evident on the belt if it was a longer bolt. (^^^ Rob beat me to it!)

Who did your timing belt job ? Even good mechanics can screw them up sometimes.

The shop is called JTP, and the timing belt was done when I had my 6bolt put in. They are close to the Clarkson GO station in Mississauga.

One of the owners had a built 1g (which basically made me comfortable bringing my car there). There's also another shop attached to theirs, and one of the mechanic's there also drives a 1g AWD.

I agree with you Reza, good mechanics can screw up. Going to see if a friend can come over sometime this week and help me take a closer look at everything.

Thinking in the worst way, I have 3 options right now:

1) Bring my car to Ryan Laliberte, to have a rebuilt 1g 7bolt put in. The engine has 20,000km, but I will need to purchase some parts before it's installed. I'm waiting for a call from him to go over more details. He will tune it after.

2) Buy a 6bolt motor, with a rebuilt head and all new timing components (from the guy who installed my GM MAFT, and have him install it) From there, I'd need to get a tune done as the guy doesn't know DSM Link that well.

3) Buy a JDM 6bolt, no turbo, no injectors, which comes with 264 regrinds as well as the stock cams. I can use the injectors/turbo from my current engine. This engine sat for 3 years, but has a new head gasket. I'd need to purchase all new timing components/water pump etc. This seller will drop the engine off at Ryan L's place, and he can install it there.

It looks to me like the belt is cut right down the middle and separated, it might not be the outer edge you are seeing as it appears in the photo, and we are just not seeing the other half of the shredded t-belt remains, but who knows, the other thing I find strange is this is a 6-bolt, and the lower cover on a 6-bolt covers the entire t-belt right up to the cam bolts and then it has the cap?, so where is the rest of his cover IF he had a lower cover on at all?, beginning to think there is no lower cover which would explain the fail aswell, agiain we're all just guessing.

^^^
yea your right, good eyes!

I guess the real way to find out is to take a peek at the bottom end, which should be pretty easy as there apparently is no lower cover, unless it was chopped in half.

I have a couple pictures I took from underneath as it sits now - if this tells you anything. Give me a sec, I'll upload them.

What do I win, a t-case, TPS n' a CAS, lol., but really tear into that with the original mechanic and let us know WTF happened, if it was a mistake by the mechanic you might want to preserve the evidence and request he looks at it with your supervision and work him from there/.

No you win a 22 spline output shaft

From the looks of it, I see the lower part of a lower timing belt cover. Looks butchered though. Could be part of the problem.

If the oil pump is still good, and no smashed up valves, you might get away with just a headgasket and a good head. If it were me, I'd just yank it all out for a good cleaning rebuild or whatever.

^^ Rebuild this current engine?

That will be more downtime, and more expensive, no?. I really need this car back on the road asap. I'm driving my winter Civic, and I only have winter tires for it ATM.

Humor me on what you think the estimated cost of a complete rebuild would be? I don't need to make the engine capable of 600hp, as I'll never see those numbers.

Ya it tells me you got a really good air cooled oil filter housing with no cooler hooked up (I've been looking for one myself), you have no way of cooling your turbo charged oil!, now I'm really starting to get mad @ your mechanic, can I go kick him in the ass for you, did he let you drive away without a cover??, I'll take a better look @ your pics, but we want a pic from the driver side striaght on the lower part of the crank pully sprocket, which you may not be able to get until you pull the damper belt pully so we can see if the oil pan bolt is interfearing with the t-belt crank sprocket!.

EDIT: Ya I did win an output shaft thanks Reza!

Ok I see the bottom of the cover now and one beat up crank damper pully, why so beat up though?, can I buy you oil filter housing

If time and money is really a constraint:
(1) make sure the block is good, i.e. no broken valve pieces in the cylinder walls. You would have to pull the head off first.

(2) take a look at that oil leak. If it is the oil pump that seized, drop the pan and address the issue.

If you feel comfortable with the block and it checks out fine, drop another HG and good head and be on your way.

Sure thing Malcom. I'll try to get that picture asap.

... Google JTP Auto Serives

Malcolm I have one of those 6 bolt housings and some more Cardinal waybills

Mike I don't want to humour you with a rebuild price, a lot of the things in a rebuild are your choice and prices vary.
I could however rebuild you a motor if you supplied me a good head and block as a core. It would be around 2k, and I like to take my time, and it will handle 600hp

I shouldn't jump to conclusions, anything could have happened, if you need on the road quick I'd replace that motor with another 6-bolt and use everything you can from your old motor, and then tear into the failed motor to see what you can salvage as mentioned, I expect you'll find valves planted on pistons which could add up quick to replace all that.

EDIT: god dam, you might find a PM in the near future Reza either that or I com'in to visit and shop, I just re-did my timing twice in a week for new parts sooo not until winter now, arrg.

Yeah Reza, if I'm going to rebuild this current one - I'd for sure want the person to take their time on it and make sure everything is done right. So no complaints there. How long do you think you'd need to rebuild it?

I'll PM you if I decide on that (if I can manage to get some extra cash)

Would you be able to install it as well?

Depending on my machinist, his turn around can be about a week or so right now. Once I have the machine work done and if I have everything I need in front of me, I can assemble the motor in a day. It all about having all the necessary parts ready to install, is what prevents downtime.

I could install but you really got to buy my time then , I'm sure other guys would do it for cheaper.

So Ryan has the engine out of my car now. He's come to the conclusion that my oil pump sprocket flew off, due to the previous engine swap/mechanic's job at removing my balance shafts. Safe to say that I'm never going back to that shop again for any work but oil changes. It's been 2 summers since the first swap, so I can't really expect anything when I show them the pictures.

Not sure yet if my bottom end is messed, but he said he'd tear into it and let me know.

Pictures, because everyone loves pictures...









And the new engine just waiting to go on...

It looks like they forgot to properly torque the nut, but why is the engine so oily, didn't they install new oil seals?

it looks like the sprocket ate a hole through the cover and went flying down the road.

Probably eh. That'd explain the loud clunking sound's I heard...

The engine is oily because when the oil pump sprocket started coming off, it bent the driven gear shaft a bit, blowing the seal.

Looks like half an oil change is free from these guys, if you know what I mean. I wouldn't go back for anything..

Hey Mike, found something else out too!

Looks like the big 14mm bolt that's on the 6 bolt front case was loose as well, it was backed all the way out! I'm sure that didn't help the cause.

Loc tite and torque specs are over rated...

Do they need to touch that bolt to to install the motor? (I have no idea, so bare with me)

This is making me all paranoid about my oil pump now...yikes!

Yes, if they pull the balance shafts.

So the shops balance shafts removal was an epic fail - basically. Great news.

Me too.... did i triple check my torque...?

I didn't want to mess with this myself when I did my timing belt so I just left it. I would only trust a dsm'r doing it or someone who has done it before. Well atleast your in good hands now

The owner of the shop drove a 1g. That's what made me semi comfortable about bringing it there for the swap as he knew the 6bolt motor. Now I realize that it isn't the case...

Yeah, I'm happy Ryan is doing the work, and I can't wait to get the car back. I can't stand driving my Civic in the summer.

Well least you get to drive something!!!

So sad that is a b-shaft removal epic fail, and its NOT that hard to do really just time consuming preb work, mind u I left the frt shaft in mine when I did it 4 yrs ago on the ES-T, sorry bout your luck but I would be takin those pics down to the shop n' say thanks for the bang up job see U never again.

Ouch, that sucks Mike. I'd avoid that shop like the plague for anything.

Glad to see you're in good hands.