Best bet is pull your ecu & inspect it where Dave says to look. If you see damage, take a pic & send it off with an email to the ECM Tuning guys (Tom & Dave). They should be able to tell you if it is repairable (& give you a ball park cost). You might be able to get it done locally but I wouldn't risk it. The Link guys do this everyday & know our ecu's inside/out. If they fix it, you know it'll be fixed correctly.

Looks like they also sell eprom ecu's for $245 (if they have one in stock). So depending on cost of repair (plus shipping there), might be another option. Again, atleast you know an ecu from them is 100% working as they do bench test everything.

Know you don't want to spend more money on the money pit but this could be a good time to upgrade to V3 ($195). And you could pic up one of their boost control solinoids ($40). This would allow you to control boost through link & it does allow different gear based boost for 1st, 2nd & 3rd (imagine 4th & 5th use the 3rd gear map).

wow thats a pretty awesome feature! I think i would be willing to pay for that. I assume that will only work with v3? I will rush home and pull the ecu but its not sounding good Whats the odds of someone having one?

If i was to find a local Eprom ECU do i still need it to be sent to ecmlink for socketing? Or could i just plug in my chip?

I am really thinking its the ecu now. I suspected it before as i was unable to roll down the window. #####%@@!!!

The ECU has nothing to do with the window controls.

You should be able to use the chip in another EPROM ECU but that ECU will need to have a socket installed on the board.
That can be done by any competent electronics repair shop or if you want to be 100% sure of everything just send your ECU to ECMTuning. Be careful of how you ship it though (fees at the border). Do a search for "customs" and you should find some advice.

Yes, the boost control is a V3 only feature.

With a new eprom, you will still need to get it socketed. Is it that hard of a job, no. Are there alot of shops out there that will still screw it up, yes. Thats why I said, send it to the link guys to do & be done with it (or purchase one directly off them if they have a 2g in stock). If its their stock, it'll be 100%, if you send one back to have it socketed, get them to verify its operation & ask them to replace the caps (looks like they might to this automatically now, but doesn't hurt to confirm) as 2g caps have started to leak now (use to be a 1g only issue)

I pulled the ECU and visually it looks ok. I guess i will just send it in to them. They can tell me if its shot or not. At that point i can get them to upgrade me to v3 and buy one from them. I looked and for the price i would rather just buy one from them. At least i know it will 100% work

I can try installing my 99 ecu as a test. Hopefully i screwed the ecu and not the wiring.

Thanks for all your help guys. I guess i am in the hands of the guys at ecmlink.

If you put the 99 ECU in, and you find all seems to be normal (pump & fan not running), you can then power the fuel pump via the test connector under the hood. This will be to test if the injectors are stuck open.

Did you find the D103 he was referring too? You don't see any burn marks or discolouration? What about smell, is there a burning smell?

What did you change for wiring that you could screw something up?

Also, are all your fuses good? Doesn't seem like the cause but I know some screwy things can happen when ones, such as the large alternator fuse is blown.

He was bang on, i went to plug the damn battery in backwards. My battery was not working so i took one out of my other cars as my car was left out over night so i wanted to set the alarm. I never really thought of it as i went to hook it up and noticed i was backwards so just flipped the battery and went to bed. The alarm set fine.

The next morning everything seemed fine so thats when the trouble started. It was 1am and pitch black so i totally fubar'd it.

Now the bigger problem is they will not sell me a ecu unless i buy dsm v3 full version!! So either i pony up a $800 or im fawked!! What a kick in the pants!!

So either i find an eprom ecu or switch back to the 99 ecu and get another option.

Pissed!! About ready to throw in the towel!

but for the record, no i did not see any burn marks. So hope its the ecu and not the wires.

Hi guys. you need to read what he tells you. he has v3. Stop telling him that he can unhook the ECU and it will reset. He definitely has a stuck injector.

I are so confused!

Correction. I have/had v2. The injectors were stuck open as i fried the ECU by wiring it backwards. Well i went to hook the battery up backwards.

I had fuel everywhere! I just drained the oil and it was full of gas. It was in the intake, IC pipe and now obviously the block.

So the question of the hour. Am i fawked?? Do i need to pull the motor?? I am scared with that much pressure i might have blown seals or something. This is a brand new build so my Piston rings did not seal yet as the car has never been run!

This blew right through turbo as well so i assume i need to drain the coolant. Will my turbo be ok??

Break it to me easy folks....

Rob? What now??

If you didn't crank it when it was full of fuel no biggy, just change your fluids and make sure everything is drained before you try again.

Before you start buying new ECU's etc. make sure you try a stock ECU to make sure that is the problem.

Yep that's exactly it. Just see what the stock ECU does. If it seems normal and doesn't piss fuel again (make sure you power the fuel pump to test), change your oil and get a working ECU for your injectors.

If there's still a problem then the link ECU might be OK and you can start checking other things. Like the injectors, resistor pack, fuel pump relay, etc.. Anything in the fuel system!

It's expensive but probably easier if the problem is only a fried ECU, compared to hunting for an electrical problem. Maybe you can just flash your '99 ECU for the injectors.

I wouldn't worry too much about pressure, seals etc..

Thanks Rob. I am positive i fried the ecu as i can see the damage. Just as the guys on ecmlink and Darren stated up above i blew the D103 between electrolytic capacitor C202 and the ECU's connector. I can see that it popped as one halfs just hanging on. I just hope nothing else went along with it.

I am trying to track down some stock injectors so that i can install my old ecu ( unfortunately i sold my old ones a few weeks back) and ensure that everything else works as its a new build.

I have a buddy that should be coming by tonight to help me out. He has a 97 ecu that he will swap me for my old intake pipe so i will just have to pay the $145 to convert it to eprom so not THAT expensive for a bonehead mistake. Also gives me the oportunity to upgrade to v3.

I am just happy i dont have to pull the motor as it took me a month to get it put together.

Well i installed the old 99 ecu and the fuel pump did not come on so 100 % it was the ecu! Sh!tty that i blew it but good that i know what the problem is. I am going to try installed my old 450 injectors along with the original ecu just to ensure that i can iron out any issues or check codes. Maybe i can limp around while i ship my ecu into ecmlink.

I just picked up a 97 awd ecu. I will try to start it up this weekend.

Wish me luck!!

Hey Rob, is it safe to assume the cable that came with dsmlink v2 is just an open port 1.3 cable? Or is it proprietary? Maybe I try to connect to my 99 ecu with evoscan to test.

Thanks for all your help guys!! YOu were correct. It was the ecu. I swapped ecus and injectors and it fired up!! I will ship it out to the guys at ecmlink asap!