How many of you are running holset turbos and what kind of oil feed set up are you using/ drain.

Going to be running one with -4 AN feed (with restrictor) and -12 AN drain (welded bung on the oil pan).

This site has a really good walk through for a holest install.
http://clintsgarage.blogspot.com/2010/05/holset-hx35-turbo-install.html

Andrew how do you no what restrictor to use?

Thanks allot Andrew that made everything pretty clear !

There is actually a Holset forum started on the RTM forums, as there has been some interest in these. Most holset guys want -12 an return lines, which we are now prepared to offer. We are also planning to make the restricted -4an feed lines, just don't know yet what size the restrictor is supposed to be..

Not sure, but the author of the writeup in the link provided by Andrew writes the above.

-10 AN drain!? dosent that seem really excessive?

^^^
Standard!

^ If not considered too small by some. There is many a posts about it on dsm tuners (garret owners, your drain may be too small, or something like that). -10 AN does certainly seem to be sufficient, -12 AN seems ideal, -14 AN is what Holset "officially" recommends. -10 AN you are typically okay to get a bolt on fitting for the oil pan, I think Ziggy currently has everything you need for a -10 AN setup. Once you go -12 AN, you need to weld the oil pan, preferably, or get creative.

Holsets love high volume, low(er) pressure.

The main problem with the restrictor is the size you need is going to differ from car to car. The only way to be sure is to do as Clint did - put a gauge at the turbo and measure it. I think it was Paul Volk who did a write up on how to use nitrous jet nozzles to be a restrictor in an AN fitting. Basically the nozzles come in all different orifice sizes and to change the restrictor all you have to do is swap out the nozzle. Otherwise, start somewhat small and just keep drilling it out until you get the desired pressure you are after. Again, the restrictor is going to differ from car to car, start small, see what your pressure is and start increasing to match the Holset spec. For somebody trying to help out Holset users, it might be worth looking into creating a kit similar to what Paul Volk did with the nitrous nozzles. That way, if they do anything that might change their oil pressure (port the oil relief, change oil weight, balance shafts, etc...) or oil needs (change turbo). I'll have to search for it, but from the top of my head, it was a male fitting with the cone cut off and the jet nozzle fit inside the cut off end and had the same degree of cone as the AN fittings.

If you want to guarantee no problems, -12 AN. If you are willing to risk a very low chance, maybe 2% from the posts over at tuners, of something going wrong, go -10 AN. As long as you nail the pressure to within spec, you'll be having a happy turbo.

tried to sign up on the rtm forum but cant seem how to read the codes:S?

Also Ziggy when will these lines be available on the rtm online store.

The lines will be going into the store soon. We are creating the restriction by plugging the 90 degree fitting at the filter housing with a pipe plug, so perhaps we could offer the pipe plugs drilled to different sizes. I see the .075 mentioned, what are other people using?

I DO have all the parts for the -12an return now, but it DOES require some welding to the oil pan. The stock Mitsu return will not work well with -12an or 3/4 NPT. Currently we are suggesting a 3/4 NPT female bung be welded to the pan.

Ruben, The codes are VERY hard to read, yet I still get at least 3 robots a day signing up. If you call me when you are ready to sign up (but not tonight anymore please), I can change the "captcha" thing to be much simpler to read....

I did it ! i broke the code lol signed up on the rtm forum!

I did it ! i broke the code lol signed up on the rtm forum!

ruben feel free to message me about holset questions.. or if you plan on buying one. I'll set you up!. pm me i'll hook u up with my cell

Also if you HAVE balance shafts you DO NOTneed a restrictor.

Ruben, you missed the part where you have to sign up with your real name, just like here....afraid you are going to have to do it again .

Call me if you need me to make the code simpler to see temporarily...

lol damm it thought i had it ! . And Sven i found a holset hx40 from someone on the board that was recently rebuild. And i had my balance shafts removed.

you'll need a restrictor on your OFH Feed line then. What are your power goals ruben? hx-40 They better be OVER 600

Around the 600 range the motor can handle it and to see the kind of 1/4 times i would like to see it seems like thats more or less what ill need on my fwd.

What you looking for 9's? haha.. hx35 has pushed fwd talons into the 10's easily.

Mother cracker!

Good luck! Can't wait to see the results come spring time!

Hopefully by that time I'll be running 200awhp!

Sorry but NOTHING pushes a fwd anything into the 10s easily.

okay, your right on that rob, But We are talking about a turbo, My hy35 could probably get it close to that 10 second mark,A hx-40 without some serious motor behind it is just gonna be laggy as hell, Better would be to put a hx-35w on there get a stage 3-5 dss axles, stage 2 tranny from shep with lsd, some slicks and then your ready to throw down.

The motor is fully build and every dsm that i have seen scrape the 10s is running a hx40.

ruben do more research before you make a choice you'll regret.

10 second HY35 a 9cm*2 holset SMALLER then the hx35w

screen name is dacowgod on dsmtuner

spec'd with a 2.0 6-bolt HY35 at around 37-38psi, the same as Ricky's. Gabe is on street tires and also has a blown turbo-to-manifold gasket



30+ psi by 4200 RPM ... which in my mind is instant.... ... I went from a 2.4 w/ the .70 AR HX40 @ 40-44psi by ~5000 down to a 2.0 with this 9cm open T3 HY35 wish spool by like 4200 and the fun factor went wayy up...I can spin this engine to 8500 comfortably now ... and its definitely not as torquey(should make the transmission happy) but the car is just so more fun to drive on the street... and at the track i'm faster now than ever..

The breakdown for my run in the video is:

60ft 1.8677 (best of the day)
330ft 4.8758
1/8 et 7.2219
1/8 mph 105.83
1000 et 9.2440
1000 mph 122.05
1/4et 10.9288
1/4mph 133.93



All this information was provided by dacow dog and jusmx141

I thought the hy35 would do better then that, Dosent a dinosour like a scm6152e hit full spool at like 4300rpm? and its a bolt on that dosent need a oil restrictor, and gives way more power

And sven, if I dont have balance shafts, how does that make it so i need a restrictor, When i removed the shaft, I also hogged out my oil relief witch lowered my oil pressure even more.. which to me would require less restriction. But i dont understand the shaft theory?

Removing your balance shafts RAISES your op.. I know some guys seeing 85psi on start up on tuners

The hy35 is a good sized turbo it's self.

Scm6152e is a very poor designed turbo not even made anymore shafts were junk from what I read and presision doesn't even support them anymore so what does that tell you when the father kicks the son to the curb?.

This is a verified set of HY35 maps and an HX35 map from HOLSET over the years.
Pre 2003 HX35 in green
2003-04.5 HY35 in black
2004.5-present HY35 in red





Hx 40 and super(in metric no lb/min)




I'm having trouble finding a compressor map for a Scm6152e, So if you have one please put it up.

But why does it raise the op? Like I said, I have no shaft on my oil pump and i get very little oil pressure at start-up.

And I know they HY is a awsome turbo! I did all the research on in too,I thought the holset would hit full boost at like 3800 from what I read.

In the full balance shaft delete it kicks up the oil pressure because the bearings for the front side are put in to block the oil passages, restricted flow increases the pressure. If you left your front shaft in and just pulled the belt, then you will not get the huge increases typically seen.

To counter the increased pressure, you can port out the relief hole. The only surefire way to know if you need a restrictor or not is to plumb in an oil pressure gauge, there is no other way. We can say 'typically' and 'generally' but your car could be the exception. All that is known with certainty is if you keep the oil pressure at the holset within their specs, you rule out a somewhat common and easy way to destroy it.

Ruben, are you looking for street & track, mainly street with lil track, or full track?

Little street and more track.

i would thnk an hx40 would be pure strip? or highway menace.

love all the holset talk going on here. Since getting into dsms and reading up on turbos i've had my heart set on the hx35 with bep .55 housing for my perfect street monster, and i've been building my car accordingly.

Lets keep the holset talk going. And i also have read through the entire holset threads on tuners and have read about how rugged they are but are very picky on oiling. Someone pulled the oil spec for it and if i find it i'll post it. With how much pressure after how many seconds of startup and min and max pressures... all that good jazz.

Seems when people started putting these monsters on their cars a lot of them died premature deaths do to being improperly oiled.

Yea trevor doing the reason for them going prematurely was why it kind of threw me off at first but now with more people running holsets and allot more people being satisfied with them i think its time to make the change over.

Just got back from Ziggys we spend some time searching on tuners for the angle of the drain line for the holset ended up bringing back 2 45's anyone care to chime in?

45s should get you there, but it does depend a bit on your manifold.

Some people have luck with a straight from the turbo with a 45 at the pan, others this ends up kinking. If you could mock up the manifold and turbo, get the hose you will be using and just try placing it. You'll be able to see quickly what angles you will need to prevent a kink. Whatever the case, it always seems that two straights are always in a position where it will fatigue either into a kink or a break.

When I had mine hanging off of there, it would have been ideal for 30s, but I'm not sure they make them so I will probably go with two 45s.

i have ziggy's kit. I have a 45 off my pan and a 90 in the line.

I will post pictures of mine.

How is it working for you sven?

I had to modify ziggys kit a little to work.

There are some things I'd personally change about it.

I'll have pictures of my drain which is working MINT.

here is my oil drain, Till i find a better set up probably a 45 off the turbo.

Sven is there no way to make that something smoother looks like to many bends.

I think as Sven said, the 45 off the turbo is in order. That will solve it.

45 off the turbo is a must. but ruben this set up I have is working FINE

Are you planning on changing over to a -12 An Sven?

thats what I currently have.

But as I told you on the phone ruben, a 2g drain cut it about 2" before the flex and then get some hose from the turbo to that and it will be good enough.

I bought yesterday a full -12 drain set up from ziggy with 2 45's how do you think that will work?

better then my one straight and 1 45.. i would have perfered 2 45*

Ill take pics once everything is together right now just busy ripping crap out of the engine bay lol did the ac removal yesterday.

Guy at work has a Holset from a 6.7 2500 cummins that he wants to sell, it has an electronics portion on top of it. Not sure if that means that its a Variable vane (and if that makes it useless to the DSM world or not) any one know?

Hey Sven, i think you should get a 45 to replace your 90. It looks like oil could pool up there. I believe i used 2 45s to get the proper angle to my return. I would be happy to send a pic of what i did.

I typed that last night and closed the laptop Looks like you already mentioned that. My bad. The post was updated since i wrote that.

What a hacked drain

I will get pics of mine tonight




Some drain info from Holset:
"Holset permits oil return pipes to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal. All turbocharger applications require a pipe of internal diameter greater than 19 mm which has integrated
connectors. To ensure oil returns into the engine under all operating conditions, the return connection into the engine sump must not be submerged and the outlet flange of the turbocharger must be 50 mm above the maximum oil level of the engine sump pan."

so that 90 is a No-No

So i ended up picking up a bran new Holset hx40 with a billet wheel, and ordered the bep t3 housing from ziggy.

Now its time for a t3 exhaust manifold what do you guys suggest?

Not going with forward facing?

If Punishment Racing ever gets back to me, I might be going with theirs.

If you have better ability to run a spacer, I have a SBX with a 40mm Tial I could sell you

Yea i think the forward facing idea is not going to work anymore.
I have been looking at punishment racing manifold or sls manifold and a 38mm tial wastegate what do you think?

Can't speak from first hand experience on either, but from what I have read all over the forums are as follows:

SLS: top notch product, cheaper than PR, terrible customer service

PR: top notch product, more expensive than PR, good customer service

Both offer a lifetime warranty for the original buyer and both seem to fit holsets really nicely.

It pretty much comes down to - is the customer service worth a few $?

So i am having a little problem with my oil drain line not sure what do do about it any suggestions?

can you not go with a longer piece of hose and just do a little circle?

What do u mean?

No, the oil drops to zero pressure and falls out of the turbo. That's not going to work through a loop. Any obstacle will send it out the seals instead.

Ruben, you could do away with the AN, just use those hose barb fittings and you have a lot more room to play.

i couldn't find a picture to show you what I mean, but what about using smaller fitting and run it like this.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/att...4&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1283354451

Ok good to know Rob.

What do you think of moving the bung over? something like this ?

To continue what Rob said, that is still downward and straight so that would work.

I can tell that there was a large amount of fun involved with installing the line with the straight AN fittings.

Moving the bung seems to be the better solution so far, but definitely the most work on the bench.

How does this look im just worried its going to interfere with the downpipe?

that looks ok, you just need to make sure that the lowest point is where it is connected to the oil pan and that the oil only goes down

I think i might of figured it out if i add a straight Npt out of the turbo it will give me room to use a hose and the An fitting at the bottom.

Ordered one of these from Ziggy


and it should come out something like this

Comments?

Looks great, About the best I have seen, what was the final tally on parts. Npt barb at turbo and a AN45 at the pan?