Bryan I have been a licensed Tech for 18 years and have never heard of anyone using pipe joint compound.pipe dope or any kind of thread locker on any part of any brake hydraulic system. Your double and inverted flare nut fitting is all you need for a tight seal as long as your flare is good.

Good to know Stephen, I am going to be grabbing everything tomorrow and hopefully she will be back on the road this week. If anyone has a video or vfaq of some one doing the hard line replacement I would love to see it.

I know have a question about bleeding. Do I need a second person? If so is there any way to do it with one person using a tool?

You can use speed bleeders, a manual pump, gravity or find something to wedge down the brake pedal while you open-close the bleeders. I've used a telescopic snow brush before.

Heck, even a modified breast pump could work. I have one if you wanna try it.

hey bryan I advise against the compression union method mostly because its illegal but also because installation of the union is stressful on your old brake line and its likely that it will leak at a new location. Best bet is to order some brake line run your new line and I can swing by and install some fittings and flare the ends for you, then help you bleed.

Thanks Jeremy! Good to know. I am going to see if I can get some brake line. I will have to measure it tomorrow and see how long I need. We will be in touch!

Ziggy carries this stuff:
Link
It's about a hundred times easier to work with than the roll of hard metal line (or those lengths of straight hard metal lines). It uses the same flaring tools you'd use on the hard steel lines, so no need to get any fancy flaring tools. I've made lines out of both the hard stuff and the EZ stuff and it's night and day.

If you use a double flare and a proper union it will work fine. There is the old school "compression" fittings that don't use flares. I've only used that on a tranmission cooler line for a truck because the line was too big and difficult to flare properly.

Crack the bleeder screws and then open the resevoir put a fresh bottle in upside down and walk away. Put something to catch all of the fluids when it gravity drains. This will get you pretty damn close. Watch the level in the res.

Also need to make sure I push on the brake petal?

Ok I decided to order the EZ bend stuff, knowing Ziggy I should have it in the next day or two.

With gravity bleeding you do NOT need to push the pedal

So I was thinking I should pull the current brake line and then try and duplicate it with my new line. I am curious if there are any mounting brackets on the firewall that I can not see or is it just the ones underneath the car?

My new background. Reference for anyone else that is interested.