I'm liking the new power steering pump location. Snap some pic's when you got the lines hooked up.

i have the regulator mounted the same way saturns are stock.. and the turbo saturn guys use adapter fittings to mount the apfr on the rails.

Right on!

Have you created a username on ECMTuning forums?

Jay I am going to have to see this beast when it's all done.

I am waiting for Tom to set me up. I just sent my registry email yesterday.

This is my dash wiring so far.. Keep in mind I removed a Apexi turbo timer with all the extras, a Venom performance modual???.. a bunch of stereo stufff... And about a pound of extra unwanted wiring. It all works now and looks much better in person. Just gotta tuck it all away.
Also I still dont know where the ecu bolts too? I must be missing a bracket or something.

Fuel rail (oh and Ryan its not an AN fitting. Its an O fitting. Straight threads with a rubber oring seal.)


Shot of the inlet side of the rail(which was the outlet side) And if you look underneath you can see the power steering pump.

Custom Alt bracket.





Think Im gonna go with Redline MT85 with some Heavy shockproof for the Drivetrain.

Looking really good Jay! Are you going to make a heat shield for your alternator? That's why most guys put it at the back, clearance for larger downpipes and to protect it from heat, but your P/S relocation looks great, and IMO very clean. I also like your tensioner on the alternator.

Ugh, now I wanna go do some WRENCHIN!!!

I dont know yet.. the dump tube is gonna get real close to the alt and the oil filter. I may just make an aluminum sheild to cover both. All depends on how the dump tube turns out.

They are real easy to make, just make sure you make one otherwise that alternator will burn up in no time!

I've never seen a filter on a vented bov. You must really like the planet

But otherwise, it's very clean. I like what you did with the coil pack and the ignition wires.

Is that vacuum line (blue one) running from your intake mani, through the rad, then onto your waste gate? Why not run it the other way and keep it away from the exhaust manifold?

Not sure if you figured out where the ecu goes but it tucks away using 3 10mm bolts under the center stack behind the stereo unit.

The harness's should face the pedals.

Alot of bovs are open during idle. The stock 1g is... Once you take that circ tube off your actually sucking dirty air into the motor. That filter came with the Blitz kit.

The hose runs to the bov first then over to the gate. If I ran a hise on that side of the motor.. then i would be running 2hoses.

And ya i figured it goes behind the stereo.. but theres nothing there that even comes close to the holes on the ecu.

You would benefit from better boost control if you drilled/tapped your lower intercooler pipe for a barbed fitting and connected your boost controller from there. Running it from the intake will cause you a pressure spike every time until the controller can "catch up".

could i not just run it off one of the ports on my turbo housing? 20g has like 3 of em.

Yes, that would be the best place.

Hows this?

That should give you better responsiveness and accuracy from your boost controller, looks good

Really liking the build!

Looks really good. I would shorten that line though.

Just remember, less is more.

^^^ What he said.

What I did was welded a bung to the LICP and put a barbed fitting. Running maybe 8 inches of 6mm thick walled line to the AEM EBC and aonther 8 inches to the WG. But, if you don't have that option (bung), then there really isn't much else you can do. Except I'm still not a fan of running a vacuum line near the exhaust manifold like that, or directly on the radiator.

Another thing too...You won't be able to please us all. Sometimes, whatever works...works!!!!

No, where he has it tapped is perfect. Air pressure is funny. The shorter everything is, the better response you'll have.

Unfortunately when you're running a line to your wastegate, it's destined to encounter plenty of heat. Keeping the line short would be the main goal, and just keep in mind that it's another wear item. Give the line a bend and squeeze every now and then; it'll stiffen up long before it blows.

Which means you'll also want to run it so it's not too much of a PITA to replace

well i have a braided oilf feed line i could use.. it would stand the heat but move the controller 2feet away from the gate.

I did what Mike mentioned, except instead of welding, I used a Vibrant soft mount barb - drill a hole in a straight coupler then poke it through and tighten down the nut. The line goes straight up, the height of the radiator, to my controller, than a short 4" line to the wastegate.

But in your case, that is fine, except for the aforementioned heat, the only way to really improve that distance is to get a 90* fitting for the compressor housing so you don't have to have that giant loop to prevent a kink.

or a 90* nylon water fitting, you could hang it 1" away from the feed on the turbo.

Good points everyone!

It actually gave me an idea in Jay's case. Is it worth while using a heat repelent (braided) sleeve over the vacuum line in known high heat areas?

Jamie valcamp has his vacuum line as close to his header as mine and he actually melted the zip tie off the hose... but the hose was fine. That silycone hose can handle quite a bit.

OK..

Link active..
fuel pump works..
TPS set..


Filling my fluids....

Waiting for the tranny fluid to sloowwwwwly enter the tranny reverse switch hole..

Next, gotta set the wide band..

Prime the motor..

And relace the plugs and crank it over

ok cranking..

Got huge fuel leak in my stock fuel filter adapter fitting. I thought it seemed like it didnt fit.

Is this some sort of trick that I'm unaware of?

feed ing it thru the reverse senser hole is easier then feeding it thru the level hole. I have the level hole open.. And i fill the reverse sensor hole till it starts to drain out the level hole.

I had a leak when I did my stock filter they were hard to get into place but it shoul donce threaded fit in good n snug with out leaks. Did you change the lines to AN?

-6 all around?

ok got it to fix... tempararly.. Im running 10 inches og 6an line from the sender to the filter then 6an under the car to the rail. filter is beside the fuel tank. I used teflon to seal it but I will just get an after market filter before it goes on the road.

Jay,
What else is on your lest before she can be on the road?

Actually my favorite fill hole is through the Speed Sensor. Just like The JayMan easyer than through the regular fill hole.

ok.. well i run outa battery juice so i gotta ait till sandra gets home to steel her battery. or my booster to charge.

I have to blead the brakes... put the front end back together.. interior assembly. watse gate tube.. and catch cans.

ok so its rolling over.. Im gettin spark.. compression.. but link is showing no injector duty?? Im getting pressure at the regulater.

how should I test for fuel? Other then removing the plugs. Cant link show me whats going on?

I'm just going to say it, is everything plugged in?

You can listen to your injectors and see if they click. You can also check for power at the injector connector. The ecu will supply ground you can check it with a meter. Other then that you are pulling the plugs

so i pulled the plugs and there wet.. So im getting spark.. fuel.. but no fire. Gonna confirm my cas position tomorrow. if i get time.

Have your plug wires order reversed and "use non-95/96 style cam angle sensor" checked?