When I ran mine I have a bung I welded into the DOwn pipe just before my test pipe (cat)
It works great that way you have more than one option when running link (when you get there)

Sven, the sensor takes no more than a few seconds to warm up and you can just turn the key to on (without starting the car) first if you want to warm it up before starting. You'll know it's warm when the reading goes to "---" or whatever the max number is (i.e ultra lean), since it's only reading ambient air.

So Chris came by on thursday and we spent a few hours putting my engine all back together and doing the timing! We started the car, the only thing that is left to do is to check the base timing and to fill up the coolant. It was so nice hearing my car starting up again and it had been last then two weeks, I don't know how you guys doing big builds go so long without hearing your cars!

nice feeling isn't it? I didn't hear mine run for roughly 8 months. So to hear it fire up for the first time, well, it gave me a "meat puppet".

Got mine started yesterday too! Turned out being a fuse
Idled beautifully! Revved up even better

When are these meets starting???

Yeah definitely is a great feeling!!

That's sick!! LOL, that was like when my fuse for my radio was bad but I didn't spot it so I bought a new fuse box.

I will schedule something at trinity in the next few weeks, then we can figure out time and day.

So I took the car for a drive this weekend, which was very exciting!!

I had a minor freak out though, when we first started the car Chris had said "What is that ticking noise!?" I guess I was too excited to notice it so I said don't worry about it. Started the car on Saturday to fill up the coolant and could now hear what Chris was talking about, after freaking out for a while I figured out that it was just lifter tick and that after the lifters fill with oil that it would no longer make that noise (Thanks Lucian for the enlightenment). Anyways, the ticking is gone now and the car is holding vacuum wonderfully at around 20 hg, the old head would only let me get around 10ish.

The engine stand that Canadian tire sells is on sale this week so I am going to pick that up and might start tearing into the engine that Eric dropped off (from Adam).

Tomorrow I will be putting in a 16g and a front mount intercool. I will be running short route for piping. For boost control I tapped the compressor housing and ran a line from the new nipple to the wastegate actuator, this will be done until I decide to up my boost, I will then put my manual boost controller back on. I will also add that I will be running the 2g o2 housing because of the issues I have heard people have with running the evo o2 housing. Here are some pics:

So tonight I decided I would spend time porting my exhuast manifold. Here is the finish product, let me know what you guys think! I would also like to note that it takes 2 hours to do this, I didn't believe it when Lucian told me but here I am two hours after I started. Also good news for me, I took a close look at my 2g o2 housing and it has been ported already!

Looks good! And good news on the O2 housing Can't wait to hear this thing!

Out of curiosity, what sorts of problems have you heard about using the EvoIII O2 housing?

here is a good comparison shot:

because of that angle it puts pressure on the flex pipe as well as cause the exhaust to hit the transfer case. So if you are running a FWD I assume you would be ok.

Bryan i like your intake where did you get it.

Ziggy has them. I got it from a member though, I also got the filter from a member, then the coupler came from Ziggy.

get those injectors in son!.

LOL, soon. Link is not here yet, as soon as it get's here they are going in, I am also going to fix the line so that it is inside the collars.

yea.. i couldn't get that, The line is smarter then me. I'd shorten the line a bit, I had it mounted right beside the clutch master. And it was LONG.. also the afpr is set for 43.5 with running no vaccum to it.

Thanks for that letting me know! I will have to adjust to 37 psi, and I think I will wait for link so I can just have it turn on the fuel pump and do it that way.

I'm glad to see you have been doing some homework and learning lots in the past few weeks! I'm looking forward to seeing your reaction to the fmic and 16g tomorrow. You'll love them, going from a 14b and smic.

Good work on the manifold

Even coming from a SMIC to FMIC there's a big difference especially during the summer. No more heatsoak!

Good to know, thanks!

Thanks Guys!

Yeah Lucian, I started watching the link instruction videos so I can learn how to do stuff. It's definitely going to be a good drive today!!

So Lucian came over last night and we got a ton of work done, 16g is on. I would also like to thank Chris, that is his sawzall. The only thing that is left is to put the FMIC on and get the bumper back on. I was pretty frustrated last night though because the j pipe I got from jay was passenger side facing and the one you need for a 1g is driver side facing, so I have emailed Ziggy so I can get that ordered so that I can finish up on Monday.

Love watching progress on this as its almost like my twin car! Other than color we seem to be doing similar mods. Always fun to watch it again or see whats next on mine

aah the beauty of owning your own home garage

Yeah Jason, I am however dreading the fuel pump change after hearing all the horror stories.

Alex, I don't know what I would do without it. My car would definitely be less upgraded than it is now that is for sure!

get in there now and take a can of Rust check or PB blaster and soak the area down, it will benifit you when the day comes to do the job. Honestly mine was not that hard however I did just cut the fuel line and use a hose to re-connect the two parts.

Soak the sh!t out of the area. Both the nuts holding the sending unit in AND the fitting from the sending unit to the flexible fuel hose.

I managed to get my sending unit out with 4/6 studs intact, but the hard neck on the sender cracked through and the hardline under the car broke, so I am now running a full S/S -6AN setup from sending unit to rail (and -8AN from rail to AFPR). It's actually not that pricey to do, but it's a whole lot better when you plan to do it instead of being left 'stranded' because it broke.

Summary:

1) Soak the sh!t out of everything with some sort of PB Blaster/Penetrant/etc.
2) Be fully aware and prepared for the fact that stuff is likely to break. (Hopefully it doesn't though).

So it was my hope that I would come on here tonight and tell everyone how great the new turbo is and how nice the FMIC is, unfortunately after putting everything on (my god was getting the j pipe on a pain in the ass) I did a boost leak test and found a huge boost leak coming through the bolt hole on the j pipe, I have added some rtv and will re-tighten tomorrow and see what the results are.

Here is a picture of the bumper mounted over the FMIC, thank you to chris for lending me the tools I needed to do some cutting and for coming over today and cutting the bumper to fit.

So I planned to go for a ride today but I had a nice boost leak where the flange for the BOV meets the tube that was welded to the tubing, turns out it had been cross thread, both me and my buddy wrestled with it for a while and then got inovative and put it between two mail boxes to twist it off, the piece twisted off an took some threads with it too, the piece is now going to have to be welded on cause I have no way of salvaging the threads. I don't have pictures now, I will take some tomorrow before and after the work is done.

Awe, shitty to hear man It seems the car keeps putting this off for you. It really wants you to enjoy it whenever it decides to stop playing mind games with you! Hahaha

Did you get the bumper cover back on?

Not yet, Chris just finished cutting the support on tuesday and I wanted to finish the boost leak test before I put it all back on.

So I went for a drive yesterday after putting everything back on, the car felt nice until I started getting into boost and around 4k it started bucking like a bronco. I checked me settings and it looks good on the MAFT but I am not sure what to do next. Lucian had said put the stock maf back on so I am going to try and do that.

Stock boost?
The MAF-T is probably set too rich and you are hitting fuel cut. Lean it out a click at a time and see if it helps. Watch your knock.

I have mad PK so not sure that is it. Plus I watched my IDC and it only went up to maybe 50% so that can't be it. Stock MAF is back on the car so we will see how that goes. Link showed up yesterday anyways and I will be installing that on monday so SD should be in there in the next few weeks. Thought everyone might want to see the mess that is my current setup.

Has anyone else thought that all this "piping" in our turbo cars is just like plumbing for sinks and toilets?

Everything needs a proper seal, and we're constantly searching out leaks.

Could we not consult plumbers on how to keep a nice and tight system?

yeah I remember the mess your dealing with the attempt to bend the recirc hose...go SD and be rid of more of it. i got a cold air arm and just went with catch can and no more recirc I just let the bov go out to the world.
Problem with plumbing is they use glue and we have our cars apart every other day it seems so the glue would be hellish

Setting up the recirc with the intake I have actually isn't to bad, once SD is in I will be putting on the shinny intake with the recirc and be good to go. Supposedly there is no difference in performance so I think I am good with silence instead of psh everytime I shift. Although when I first got into turbo cars I loved that sound. If I upgrade to a 4" intake than I will go non-recirc.

Funny you say that... most times I'm searching for boost leaks I wind up at the local plumbing supply store

They have some pretty good thread sealers and test plugs and the like for mucking around with your setup.

all the stuff I needed for making my boost leak tester was made from stuff in the home hardware plumbing section.

So for the past year and a half I have had numerous people ask me what the original paint colour off my car was. I told everyone that it was this nice blue, mainly because it was the colour of my engine bay and it looked like it was well done. Well I went to put a sticker in the engine bay yesterday and the below happen, I would say it looks really cool and I now believe the original colour of my car was red.