Hi Guys,
I have a stock healthy 7 bolt with 230k and I want to have fun with it this year before pulling it out for rebuild next winter. I ran 20psi with stock head bolts last year without any probs.

I want to push it to 23-25psi this year but to my understanding if I don't use ARP head studs I will lift my head and have all kinds of problems.

Is possible to install ARP head studs with head still on? Can it be done or should I just wait until next winter?

It is possible, just not preferred. Any release of torque, even in just a small area, could cause problems with it resealing...very minute chance though. Making sure the holes are clean are a lil more troublesome, but can be done.

You do them one at a time. Remove a bolt, drop a stud in and torque it.

You do them one at a time. Remove a bolt, drop a stud in and torque it.
As Andrew said, I did my green car few years ago like that and it still works great. Just do one at a time.

thanks guys!

I wouldn't even bother installing ARP's at 25 psi. I always felt that over 30 psi is where they were really needed especially if your aggressive with the tune and like to run excessive cylinder pressures.

Detonation is what will lift it first. After that its just power. If you can lift the head by making power alone, I give you thumbs up

I installed them with the head on, no problem and still is runnign strong. I just wanted the piece of mind knowing how shitty the stock 2g 7 bolt head bolts are. Just remember to put the washers on the head first then the stud. And you'll need a deep 12 point 12mm socket

Just what I wanted to hear. Advice based on real experience rather than "words" floating around.

I have 8 more days before my spyder will take me across the continent back home. Can't wait to fire-up my AWD after 11 month sleep. BTW your ACT 6 puck is going in after I come back. It will go with ACT FW and ACT 2100 PP. If all goes well she will see track this year (first one for her).

Nick, I'll make sure washer goes in before the stud.

Do I just do finger tight the stud and then apply torque in 3 steps on the nut? How much torque those studs can take on the 7 bolt?

Off-topic, but Alex you have to pick up one of those GoPro cameras and tape your trip back!

Man that's gotta be an awesome drive. 5 days right?

Yeah just install the stud hand tight, and the torque specifications depend on what lube you will be using for the nut. I used the moly lube included with the studs and torqued them to 75 ft lbs, then after a few heat cycles I re torqued them down to 80 ft lbs, no need to go higher then that unless your running 35+ psi. However you can install the nuts using motor oil and the torque spec would be 120 ft lbs with 30w oil.

The reason for the higher value with motor oil is due to friction. The threads will drag and create friction and that will "inflate" the torque value. 120 ft/lbs with motor oil is basically 80 ft/lbs of torque and 40 ft/lbs of friction drag. In the end, the nut will be equally tight with either method, but using moly lube will yield a more accurate clamp force across the board.

I was thinking about go-pro but instead I bought ACT FW . I will have to take pics and no video. The drive is about 4 days.



Sounds good Nick. Thank you

A re-torque is usually recommended with a new HQ, as the HG will compress. With your HQ being used, its not as much of an issue, but it can't hurt either.

As everyone said, one bolt/stud at a time. ARP recommended value is typically what you want to use, maybe 5ft/lbs more. Don't go crazy as you can stretch the stud. Don't need to torque it in steps as the rest of the head is already torqued down.

I swapped to std ARP's back when I wanted to run over 20psi, just to be on the safe side. Though we have run 25psi on stock bolts, without a problem.

Thanks Daren,

My goal again is to run upto 25psi without meth on 94 octane. I hope I can keep knock down with resonable timing this year.

for those of us that don't know what is HQ?

I wonder if you will even achieve better clamping force and seal than what is already in there, with standard ARP's. Any more than 85 to 90 ft lbs with Moly and those regular ARP's will stretch anyways.

If you were going through this, I would atleast use L19's or A1's and go 95 ft lbs with moly. The whole point in this is to achieve more clamping force, so that when you do crank it up the H11 tool steel won't stretch

When I used to lift the head back in the days, regular ARP's, hylomar spray, or even a 4 layer Mitsu steel gasket didn't do sh!t, I still eventually started pushing coolant and the head still wanted to fly off. I can't even say one setup was better than the other. A1's and felpro 1153-1 solved the problem for good (no orings or spray needed at all).

Regular ARP Head studs - premium grade 8740 alloy heat-treated to 190,000 psi.
A1 Head Studs - H-11 tool steel with a tensile strength of 260,000 PSI.
ARP L19 - unknown specs

Not sure what specs are for stock bolts but if ARPs will not clamp any better than whats the point to upgrade?



Ziggy's sells ARP L19 Head Studs for 7 bolt but not the A1's. A bit on the high price compare to regular ARPs but if they work than they worth it. If power alone will not lift my head at 25psi I will just leave it until next winter rebuild. However, if I do install L19s how easy it would to undo them later wihout damaging them. I sure don't want to buy them again during engine rebuild.

Hey I'm sure its not what you wanted to hear, but I'm just telling you from personal experience If it was me, I'd just leave it alone for 25 psi unless you plan on L19'ing it.

Definately pricey, but you won't need to buy head studs ever again. You can keep reusing forever, even when you get used to the 25 psi and want more I bet the head will squish before the stud stretches Then just toss in a better gasket or o ring it with a composite. Who knows, you might not even lift it at all with big power and an L19 upgrade as is.

On a side note, all my regular sets of ARP head studs I ran back in the day are owned by my box of used spare bolts. Thats where they belong. Even if you gave me your new ARP's for free, I'd toss them in the same bucket, lol.

Reza, remeber he's a 2g so the stock bolts aren't as strong as the 1g's. Don't think the ARP's are much of an upgrade vs the stock 1g bolts but they should still be abit of an upgade over the 2g stockers.

At 25psi the std ARP's should be fine. If you think you'll want more in the future, just get the L19's. Yes their more, but like Reza said, you can re-use them over & over again.

L19's & A1's are basically the same, other then the nuts.

Bryan, HQ is headgasket (HG) for guys that don't know how to type.

Yes true since they are 1mm thinner. Considering 1g studs are 12mm and 2g are 11mm, I doubt ARP made a stronger 11mm stud than a 12mm. That's why I just don't see 7 bolt 11mm ARP head studs as much of an upgrade at all. I agree they probably help a bit though, but I wouldn't bet on it

I wonder why they went with a smaller diameter with higher compression on the 2G vs 1G?

Hrmm.

Just because the bolt is smaller, doesn't mean it's weaker fyi