Maybe a dislodged honeycomb. That would certainly restrict flow and could have damaged the maf. Easy one to check off the list. Also easy to fix. Go SD.

Checked the MAF before I put the car away and the honeycombs were all intact and in place. Believe me, I went through *everything* trying to figure out this issue and nothing.

Also, I have the IAT in the TB elbow...I've just been too lazy to splice the wire from the MAF and hook it up.

Try locking the IAT temperature (setting in link) and using the MAP instead of your Baro sensor, I wouldn't drive around like this but you can at least check if the car builds pressure like this.

I would lock IAT as Bryan suggested, toss in a basic VE table, switch MAF to SD then pull the intake pipe off the compressor. Have someone open the throttle wide open so that you're on the 2-step and watch the turbo to see if it's spinning.
Just be absolutely sure there is nothing in front that could get sucked into the turbo.

I thought of this too when reading this. I think the firing order was inverted in Link or something? caused the same issues.

What about your Cat? I pulled mine off a couple weeks ago, it was demolished. and the downpipe dumped out a few 2"x2" pieces that were probably wedged sideways... caused stupid boosting issues.

His cat is a straight pipe essentially. Ryans version of link was used and pre programmed for a different set up. I think it was inverted CAS or something like that. If its not mechanical, it has to be electronic. I just thought of this because with ryans car we went through 4-5 turbos before we figured it out by accident really. WE never even suspected Link at first.

Interesting addition to make. Car has been sitting for the better part of a month and a half (have only touched it one weekend since I put it away) and she started up beautifully, but I noticed she is now burning oil. This was never an issue from the time I rebuilt her to when I put her away last, but now if I'm stopped I can give the car a little gas and white/gray smoke comes out and it STINKS like a car burning oil. It goddamn reeks.

Even sitting at a light just idling I can smell it and see some white smoke sometimes. Not sure how it all of a sudden started burning oil just from sitting but now I need to figure out what could be causing this and if there's any relation to my boost issues.

Gonna sleep and get up in a few hours to start tearing into her.

Journal bearings?

I was thinking that may very well be it, especially since a lot of people have had my issue (same sounds, etc.) and had it be the bearing.

If it would stop raining I could get 'er up on jackstands and pull the turbo and swap on my old 14b and see. The 14b burns oil, but it boosts.

Figured I'd update everyone. I've been running my old 14b with no issues ever since this happened.

A week or two ago I ordered an FP E16G CHRA, so I figured I would take the old one out of the compressor housing.

I was a little surprised when I saw this:



Clearly the chunk must have been missing before I ever got the turbo because:

1) I still have an engine left (that has had thousands of km put on since)
2) Have found no metal in my oil during oil changes
3) It would never build much boost (don't think I ever got it over 20, if even that high)
4) It whirred like a jet engine whenever it did spool up...for the day or two that it ran before blowing to sh!t

I've still yet to post a 'bad guy' post, but be weary of Danny Falardeau/HP Auto. Calling him a lying scumbag would be a compliment at this point.

thats not even as nice as my coffee table ornamient 14b.

Those fins are looking pretty bad. I guess you wouldn't be able to see that with the housing still on. What would cause something like that? I think it's usually the hot side that gets messed up.

It was probably the retarded amout of shaft play. Salomon just wiggled it in my driveway and it sounded like a bag of marbles. The compressor wheel probably hit the recess of the cartridge housing and broke off.

I think the missing chunk caused the play (due to it now being out of balance). When I got it it did have some play (not as much) but I chalked that up to be due to it sitting for a long time with no oil in it. Unbalanced turbo + play = BOOM pretty quickly, seemingly.

Bryan, the fins did look a little better before they got cozy with the compressor housing, but yah, there are some nicks and all that other crap.

While I've got the compressor housing off I figure I'll tap it for a boost nipple.

Salomon, I would DEFINITELY check the intercooler before anything. Chances are, with a chunk that size, it's stuck in the inlet of the intercooler and never made it to the engine. Can't hurt to look because if it's stuck there, can't be good for the future.

It would of had to hit to cause the missing chunk. Yes it would be very badly inbalanced now, but I bet you had more play then you think you did before you bolted that thing on.

That had to of been out of balance for quite some time to break a piece like that off... Well, at least you solved the mystery

Good point on the intercooler. Pull that bad boy off and flush it. I'd hate to see a "motor blew up, not sure why" thread because of a little piece of metal. Keep the wheel though, that's a trophy of frack ups.

I was thinking about the intercooler and how there's a chance it could be in there.

I don't think it's likely, but I'll check when I've got the car apart to install my 'new' turbo this weekend.

The car has probably at least 3500-4000km on it (if not more) since I took that turbo off, so it's even less likely for there to be a piece still sitting there, but again, I'll definitely check.

I didn't take a picture, but you can see on the inside of the compressor housing where the piece came off and scraped it.


Johnny, I'll be coming this whole CHRA as a little momento. Maybe I should hang it from my rear view mirror

shitty deal salomon 16g will be a nice upgrade though

I think this was meant for one of the FS threads with the Garrett turbos

That being said, anyone with an E16G should look into this:

http://store.forcedperformance.net/...uct_Code=FPCHRAEVO3&Category_Code=SP

$300 for a brand new E16G CHRA. Mitsu wheels & shaft combined with some FP hardware. If you have the compressor and turbine housings, you've got a brand new E16G for $300. Or just get your 14b compressor covered machined to fit the 16g and call it a day.






Hahaha...caught your mistake before you fixed it And, that WAS an Evo 3 16G...lasted me all of a few days...on a fresh rebuild (engine) too. Imagine if it would've taken the engine =/ I'd rather not think about it.

hahahahah ok you got me!!!


think i need to go to bed now, gotta work in the AM anyway

Just another tid-bit of info, I talked to Micheal from FP and he told me if you buy more than 10 they sell for 275$ a pop. Just in case you guys want to do a group buy. Extreme PSI also has a new batch of Evo 16gs (all, not just the CHRA) for 800 on tuners.

Too bad Ziggy is out of town. I could see it being something worthwhile for him.

If I hadn't already ordered one (it's waiting at the border for me to pick up), then I'd be down for a group buy. I'm sure there are plenty of people here who would be in on it, though.

That's still a great price for a new unit.