10" or 12" sub for 2g rear hatch area
#384560
September 20, 2012 09:01 pm UTC
September 20, 2012 09:01 pm UTC
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,809 Ottawa, ON
Mike Eng
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Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
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OP
Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,809
Ottawa, ON
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we had a thread going on somewhere and i can't remember who, (other than johnny l.) did a custom enclosure for a 10 or 12" sub sitting on the right hand side of the trunk area. looked clean, i wanted to see more pics to get an idea of how difficult it would be to make a custom enclosure...?
'99 GSX GT35R '03 CBR 600RR
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Re: 10" or 12" sub for 2g rear hatch area
[Re: Mike Eng]
#384638
September 21, 2012 05:53 pm UTC
September 21, 2012 05:53 pm UTC
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,809 Ottawa, ON
Mike Eng
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Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
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OP
Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,809
Ottawa, ON
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thats what i was looking for! thanks andrew! also, what do you do if you need to change the tail light bulb, does the box just come out? i've never worked with fiber glass before, so i doubt i'm going to try tackling this, i may just give up and get that small sub box but your enclosure would be the best solution for me...fml
'99 GSX GT35R '03 CBR 600RR
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Re: 10" or 12" sub for 2g rear hatch area
[Re: Mike Eng]
#384641
September 21, 2012 06:26 pm UTC
September 21, 2012 06:26 pm UTC
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,831 Moose Jaw SK / Cambridge ON
Johnny Larmond
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Moose Jaw SK / Cambridge ON
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i've never worked with fiber glass before, so i doubt i'm going to try tackling this, i may just give up and get that small sub box but your enclosure would be the best solution for me...fml Let me ask you this, you bought a DSM knowing everything about this car, right? WRONG! You get some fibreglass and stop being a puss Winter is coming which means it's project time.
Last edited by Johnny Larmond; September 21, 2012 06:26 pm UTC.
'97 GSX - DD and running strong '99 GSX Spyder - Running strong '99 GS - zzzz.
PHP: 4
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Re: 10" or 12" sub for 2g rear hatch area
[Re: Mike Eng]
#384643
September 21, 2012 07:17 pm UTC
September 21, 2012 07:17 pm UTC
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,809 Ottawa, ON
Mike Eng
OP
Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
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OP
Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,809
Ottawa, ON
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well, i was hoping to swap my 6bolt for my other 6bolt and a shep trans this winter..not looking forward to a custom sub enclosure. although, i may try this come spring?? maybe...? lol
'99 GSX GT35R '03 CBR 600RR
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Re: 10" or 12" sub for 2g rear hatch area
[Re: Mike Eng]
#384650
September 21, 2012 11:11 pm UTC
September 21, 2012 11:11 pm UTC
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,106 Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Andrew Trapp
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Serious Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,106
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
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Soundwise, it is damn good. Not going to break any SPL with 1 10", but "carry on my wayward son" sounds bloody awesome! When I measured the hatch area where I was putting the sub, I brought the bottom out farther than initially planned as that gave me the extra depth I needed to get the volume I needed. I'll have to find my book, but I took measurements of where I was putting it and estimated that I had to come x out from the side for the proper volume. The sub is held in by itself pretty well, but I did two things that ultimately hold it in. I don't run a spare (usually, long trips I'll just toss it on top), so I put a mdf board and bolted it to the tire hold down...this is what I have my amp and cap on. On the passenger side of the board, I fastened a 2x6, planed, to push against the sub box. It is that 2x6 that holds the sub in place in addition to providing the right side brace for the lid, which I also recut using MDF. To get the sub out, I have to unbolt the amp rack, one bolt, slide it across, then the box lifts out. I did the job with the trim piece in the car, next time around (want to better aim the sub and use a thinner fleece and try to get it to sit a bit flusher) I'm going to either take the piece out, or buy a junkyard one to do it with and use a mold release agent instead of masking tape. All in all, it was the only option for me for a sub. Since I DD it during the summer, I need the space, but hate not having a nice strong bass component to my music. The only other option I would consider is: 1) getting any old rear seats...the flip down sections 2) remove all the upholstery 3) create a mount for two 13" TW5 4) fiberglass them keeping the folding mechanism intact 5) give up on having rear seats After everything else is up to par (in a few years) I'm probably going to pursue this path.
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Re: 10" or 12" sub for 2g rear hatch area
[Re: Mike Eng]
#384651
September 22, 2012 12:45 am UTC
September 22, 2012 12:45 am UTC
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,831 Moose Jaw SK / Cambridge ON
Johnny Larmond
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Moose Jaw SK / Cambridge ON
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I like the idea of the seat, but volume wise, where would you put that? I'm going to pursuit this rear enclosure. It will allow me to keep the shape and get some boom boom in the truck. I think I understand what you're saying for locking it into place. You had the base of the enclosure made of MDF, and you had an additional piece cut to cover the remainder of the spare wheel well, thus covering the entire area. When you used the screw for the spare tire to hole the second MDF board in place, it locked everything down. Am I correct? If not, it still seems like a sound way to anchor it. I'd like to throw a 10" Kicker L3 back there. Do you have any idea of the volume? estimate?
'97 GSX - DD and running strong '99 GSX Spyder - Running strong '99 GS - zzzz.
PHP: 4
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Re: 10" or 12" sub for 2g rear hatch area
[Re: Mike Eng]
#384669
September 22, 2012 06:09 pm UTC
September 22, 2012 06:09 pm UTC
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,342 Canada
Terry S
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Posts: 2,342
Canada
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1 cubic foot for a sealed box with a 10" 1.5 for a ported box (plus space for the port) 10" 1.5 for a 12 in sealed box 2 for a 12 in a ported box IMO (Ive built more then 10 custom enclosures) A 10" in a sealed will give you the best all around definition and if you need more low end then a 12" in a sealed box is the way to go. Ported boxes give great low end but terrible definition, bandpass boxes go even further twords low end. I had a box custom made for me by the head enclosure developer from Clarion in Oakville(friend of the family), it was a big bandpass box with dual separated chambers and vents, one for the front of the speaker and one for the back, all of this was powered by a 300watt amp and an 8 inch sub...yep 8". This box/sub out 'bassed' my buddys 3 x 10" in a sealed enclosure, mind you it didn't go as loud but it sure as hell pounded harder.
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Re: 10" or 12" sub for 2g rear hatch area
[Re: Mike Eng]
#384699
September 23, 2012 12:32 am UTC
September 23, 2012 12:32 am UTC
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,106 Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Andrew Trapp
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Serious Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,106
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
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This is the cross section of my trunk currently: Black is the metal of the car Red is the mdf board and 2x6 bolted to the tire hold-down Grey is the amp and cap Pink is the mdf trunk floor (hinged) Blue is the enclosure It is the vertical 2x6 which is what is really holding the sub in place. As I recall, I ended up close to 23L. Remember that you need to account for the volume of the sub, which in this case, left me with the 18L I needed for the 10" w3v3. Johnny, for that JL 13", you only need .8ft3, or 23L. I'll have to measure the seats, but I'm pretty sure the frame itself would make up fairly close to 23L.
Last edited by Andrew Trapp; September 23, 2012 12:33 am UTC.
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