Hey guys,

So I'm educating myself on these products and the only difference I see (in earlier versions) are no LED light for low fluid level..and that's it? Some of them feature different pumps. They call them "stage's 1 and 2" but the only difference I see is forced induction and naturally aspirated applications.

What I'm really curious to know is your guys experience with any of the aforementioned brands and installation tips/advice. Especially on a 2g.

Thanks in advance!

Edit: For my application, I am running a FP3052 and 25lbs BUT want room to grow, if this information is any help.

The name brand kits might be easier. But you could biuld your self a kit with the right research. Remember, people have been injecting waterinto turbos before they put turbos into cars.t

I would consider that if I had the patience to piece together a DIY kit..but in all honesty, I'd rather get everything I need all at once. Then dedicate the time to install it. I have a BAD habit of ordering parts and sitting on them, just waiting to be installed. In fact, I still have a brand new Saturn alternator and JayRacing relo kit sitting on my shelf from last summer.

Mike, it's a weekend job! Get on it!

I can't really talk though, I love sitting on things too. Been wanting to drop my battery onto the subframe for almost a year now and just have not take the time too.

I just bought the AEM kit used for $160. Think it's a good price considering it's $450 new on most websites. PLUS SHIPPING!

Now I'll be sitting on this until spring hahaaha

Think I can run low 11's on a stock bottom end?

sure no problem..

I read once that Brent Rau(spelling} runs over 50 psi with injected meth!

Thats a good price for a used kit.. cause you will be altering it and adding on to it anyway. changing nozzles and adding things. Is the kit active or passive?

I bought the progressive Devils own kit, I am having issues with it not spraying properly how ever its winter time and I am not all that interested in hitting huge boost numbers in the spring I will get it all sorted out and probably be very happy with it.
(My progressive and full spray leds are flickering not staying on solid when in applicable boost levels)

I dont have experience with the brand name progressive kits. We used them on saturns all the time but we were running Megasquirt so we just controlled the meth injection with MS cause we could. Altho alot of guys would just leave it passive. Its easier to tune around and less things to worry about.

In the Old days of fighter planes injecting water into their turbos.. the just let the turbo suck the straight water into the compressor using its vacuum.

What do you mean by active or passive?

ECMLink V3 owners don't typically use a progressive kit, simply because the On/Off toggle can be done using an output on the ECU.

I built my own kit. I have a Devil's Own (Shurflo) 250psi pump, some 1/4" Truck air line and the nozzles/check valve I got from Ziggy. I run dual M7's into my throttle body elbow. Never had a problem other than the odd push-lock failing and I get a small leak, but I regularly check my meth setup at least once a week.

Active being progressive, controllable, Tunable. Passive being off... on...No electronics. Kinda like Guitar pick ups. Thats how I was tought.

Ah, gotchya.

When I finally put a meth kit in my car it will be a Aquamist system. They are pricey but the best kit out there.

I'm using the Snowperformance stage 2 with great luck.

I have a devils own 250psi pump, was thinking of running a m10 nozzle, check valve, and pressure switch in my stock 1g with a 2 stage boost controller set up.

If you have link V3, you'd be just as easy running an output on ECMLink to control it.

My 1g will be running a maft and a safc till i can afford DSMap.

I had the AEM kit, worked well once they replaced the faulty control box I got from the factory.

EDIT: Have not had. I actually kept it from my partout since it hasnt been used for long. Will be used on the next build.

Yes, it is a progressive system. The part # from AEM is P/N 30-3000;



It features a 200 psi pump and 3 nozzles (small, medium and large) which flow 130cc/min, 315cc/min, 550cc/min.

The 550cc/.min is rated from 350 - 600 HP. So obviously I'll be running this one but I have a question regarding tapping into my UICP. I have a 3/8 bung welded into my TB elbow for my IAT sensor, and prior to that I have a GMMAF. Would it be wise switch the IAT's sensor location further AWAY from the TB seeing as I probably shouldn't feed water/meth through the MAF?

I'll post a pic of my engine bay shortly.

EDIT: Thanks for all your input you guys! I appreciate it!

Also curious to know where you 2g guys mounted your reservoir and pump and low level LED?

Show us pictures of your bay, Mike.
I have always read that IAT should be as close to intake as can be, and have heard people who put the IAT in their intake.

So I would think that you should make enough space so nozzle is right after MAF and right before IAT. (If you are running MAF-T, why do you have IAT in the first place?)

Saw pictures of some cars where the guys put the tank in the fender.

To dial in speed density. According to wiki, it's obviously not needed but helps with dialing it in. I have extra 2.5" auliminium piping to replace the MAF when the time comes but if I plan to spray, I should probably eliminate the MAF altogether.

Pic coming in 5...

Take your time and dial in SD with the MAF, but I would definitely agree with deleting it in the long run. I was fine with the stock maps and now that I have a good understanding of how to dial in SD it's not to hard to fix stuff in Idle and Cruise, where most of my issues were after the switch.

So you can see that there isn't much room for the nozzle between the TB and MAF. It looks like I'll be deleting it this spring.

Yeah I think that would be your best bet. Plus you could use one of those couplers with a bung where the MAF is now and it would save you having to tap anything you currently have.

Puting the nozzle before or after the iat sensor is an old debate. The saturn guys who ran speed density as stock.. run the nozzle after the iat sensor. The DSMap guys.. who heen doing speed density in dsms way before dsmlink ever thought it could be done..say run it after the iat.. But Link guys will always tell you to run the nozzle before the iat.

When I ran speed density in my 1g.. my iat sensor was mounted in the ic pipe right beside the intercooler so it would be out of ye engine bay. To reduce heat soke. Now I wasnt running meth yet.. but if I did on that car I was gonna run one nozzle by the TB... after the iat.. and one nozzle before the turbo.. by the air filter.

I know which one you mean. IIRC Mr. Larmond found them and they're made by Mishimoto, Ziggy carries them so that's a plus. And yes, I'll be adding this to the order



What are the benefits of spraying pre-turbo? I know that may be a silly question but I don't get it

Pre turbo if atomized good will make the air more dense before the turbo sucks it in. The more dense the air.. the more volume of air the turbo takes. In thoery it is making a 44lb/min turbo into a 50lb/min turbo at the same speed. Altho it has a major draw back. If not done right.. it will premature wear out the compressor fins.. or instantly destroy it. I was gonna run it on a 14b with a 7cm hot side. Easy cheap turbo to replace.

Oh well frack that! I won't be doing that sir! hahahaha

LOL, yeah and you spray water before the turbo, not meth.
I was told you should be more worried about the compressor fins not spinning anymore, or at least not as efficiently

Well you start injecting the water into the turbo during boost. By then the turbo has so much momentum that a light mist wont even slow it down. The turbo will be pushing 15psi of air.. A little mist isnt gonna make that much of a diferance.

More air at less rpms .. is more efficient. thats the idea.

Slowing it down was from the fact that the wheel doesn't spin freely, not from the mist pushing it

The wheel only spins freely till it starts making boost then it fights air presure.

Yeah but it's the ball bearing that is going to get goofed up from moisture, or what ever it is that is letting the wheel spin.

Kind of like when you put wd40 on skateboard wheels, just it takes longer than 24 hours for the wheel to get effed

It is more of improper atomization that destroys turbo. Large drops of water could throw the compressor out of balance.

They have been injecting water for many many years.

You guys running a 1 gallon tank, how often do you need to refill it? Ever tank of gas?

It really depends how you drive I've had my tank empty in a few days where other times it lasted weeks. My progressive kit was set to spray at 7 or 10 psi if I'm not mistaken, so anytime under that it would not consume a single drop.

Thats why were gonna set up a 2 stage boost controller. stage 1 will be stock and the meth wont even kik on cause it will be set just above. Then stage 2 will be 17psi or whatever and the meth will kik on at like 12psi. I was thimling we would mount a container in the glove compartment so it would be easily watched by the driver. But hidden from anyone else.

Injecting water pre turbo is a good idea to make power, but you have to inject it directly at the center of the compressor wheel. Ziggy and I a while back were talking about manufacturing a spacer that would go in front of your turbo with a nozzle pointing directly at the center of the compressor wheel. I was thinking of doing this when I had my small 16G.

The problem is unless it's engineered, you run the risk of the droplets of water coming in contact with a blade spinning at 100,000rpms. May as well throw rocks into your intake. The water will not vaporize fast enough not to cause damage. The main reason for doing it is to make the air COLDER, not more dense. Making it colder makes it more dense. The air is super-heated when it becomes compressed and with the water injected, it slows that process down since water has a great ability to dissipate heat. You also run the risk of water pooling in your intercooler pipes.

You will need separate tanks and pumps. One for water and one for meth/water. You don't want to be injecting meth into 350 degree air, and meth is very corrosive, you'll go through a turbo a summer.

Not saying it's not a good idea but you have to look at the risk vs reward. If it was really worth doing, lots of people would be doing it. Been there, done that... wasn't worth it. I just went bigger on the turbo.

We can make i colder anywhere in the ic pipes. Making the air more dense for volume reasons is the same thoery of why the more humid the weather the less power we make. more dampness in the air the more the turbo will give us.