Lets start a thread dedicated to lapping days and guys tracking there cars on the road course. i'll keep you guys informed about lapping days i will be attending to hopefully get a group together (cough...Daren, Rob, cough)

No drag racing talk!

Lets start with hearing everyones road course experiences and tracks they've driven on.

My Cooper S has around 1000km of tracking at Shannonville, Mosport DDT and Cayuga over the last 3yrs. And maybe about 6 dozen off track experiences...lol

Its been nearly 7 years since Ive driven at Shannon-ville. Haven't ever lapped anywhere else.

Ive been spending the last year and a half tearing down and rebuilding a DSM for THIS VERY PURPOSE. To be able to take the abuse of 30 - 40 minutes of hard driving. Im not looking for high horse power goals. Rather reliability and handling are my main concerns.

The big question isnt will my car perform, but rather do I have the balls to use it like its built;) Im pretty confident in my build and will put my money on this car and a good driver any day.

Im a big GO, and personally think about my first track day in this car every day. "I cant wait" is a huge understatement.

I'm building towards this aswell. I want to drag my car a couple times to see my foundation and see where my car stacks up to others..The real test is in how it will perform and how reliable it will perform lapping.

I'm seriously considering swapping to a full coil over this season. I think it's a must.

This would be a first for me so I can't comment on previous experience other than a couple 1/4 mile passes with my SiR which ran 14's like no body's business LOL

Haven't actually had the Talon on a road course yet, but I have autox'ed it in addition to plenty of that nonsense straight line stuff.

In my Mazda (3 Sport) I've got a number of summers and quite a few events under my belt. Mainly Mosport DDT and Shannonville. Either SRTA lapping events or the ones Shannonville puts on independently as well as some other stuff.

I didn't get to hit the track (not a road course, anyway) at all last summer due to financial issues but in the 2 summers prior to that I probably put on about 1500+km on my Mazda at the aforementioned events/locations.




If you're too chicken to do it, I'll toss her around for you.

Im not opposed, to it, as long as Im in the passenger seat

I wouldnt say Im chicken though. Im a pretty aggressive driver, and confident I'll be one with my machine after some good one on one time.

What scares me is suspension tuning. Think engine tuning is hard to get your head around? Man oh man, thats noting compared to setting up a complete overhauled suspension. Every change and adjustment affects everything else. How do you begin!! ??

The more I read and research, the more I cringe!

Knowing the ins and outs of your car really is a huge part of it. A good driver will be able to take any car and put up a good (relative) time, but knowing all the nuances will truly allow you to focus on driving the track, and not driving the car.

If I were to drive her, I don't think I could rightly kick you out of your own car even if I wanted to (not that I would). Hahaha...I'm always good to go for sit-alongs as well to aid with pointers and what-not, although my abilities in the driver seat do not translate well to in-car coaching. Teaching is not my forte.



Suspension setup is INSANE. I want to learn the ins and outs of it and really set up a monster, but there is SO much to know and so much to test/adjust/etc. Given my student budget, I've never had a car with adjustable anything except sway bars, so I've never really had much to tinker around with. I do look forward to the day, though, as much as I dread it.

This is what Sam and I are using the WRX for. Hoping to get some tires for it this year and start to learn what the car can do in stock form around the circuit track.

Last summer was a right off for me also for lapping days because i was away so much for work. This year i will likely do more but the costs do get up there with tires, fuel and entrance fees.

I keep telling Rob his car will scare the crap out of him all year long till he builds up the confidence to drive it near its potential.

Riding shot gun makes me sick. I hate ride alongs.

It does add up. And in the Talon it's going to be WAY worse for gas. 94 and it'll drink it like no tomorrow. At least in my Mazda I can get probably ~150km driving at the limit. I'd probably get half that in the Talon. Gas+Food+Tracking Fees = $250 on the best of days.

I've been itching to try the Mosport Big Track...now that I actually have a car with some power I can finally justify it. Except Big Track lapping days are like $350-$500, usually, just for the lapping fees.



Before I get to mention it - HEEL-TOE. Everyone should teach themselves this and master it. Just make sure you're not accidentally pressing the brakes less (than you would if you were only braking) when you do it, as most people tend to do without realizing it.

To add to this. Copied from this post here: http://www.ca.dsm.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=394621&#Post394621

I've done some lapping at Shannonville and Mosport DDT, but never in a DSM. I've done Mosport DDT in a Formula 2000 Car for one of their driving course which was ridiculously fun. My leg was shaking from adrenaline for half an hour after. Otherwise mostly in my former Miata. Hoping to get out to some events in the Bimmer this year.

I agree with Saloman that you shouldn't feel the need to optimize anything before you go to an event. You can have a great time in a stock shitbox as long as you don't have too much ego about getting passed by a better driver in an even slower shitbox

FYI there are autox events on the Mosport DDT once or twice a year. That's a great way to ease into it without spending much money or abusing the car too much.

I want a Miata soo bad as a track car. Thats right, then I'll own a Mini and a Miata....

Ive been practicing this in my daily drivers while getting around town, and taking off ramps and such.

Well F me, this is the hardest thing Ive ever had to practice. I still suck after a year of trying it every other day.

Salomon,

May help out with the financials.

http://www.newswire.ca/en/story/111...rograms-for-canadian-motorsports-in-2013

SRTA plus Mazda

Also makes me think we should put my simulator back together and i'll bring my PS3 into Brightside. Productivity approaching zero......

I have a question. What are the guys with DSM's who track their cars doing for heat soak problems?

Im on the fence about putting vents in my hood. Even with ceramic coated exhaust components and blankets, Im worried Im gonna melt stuff.

Its not like drag racing when your done in a few seconds, beating your car up for 20 or more minutes at a time can get it pretty hot!

Pedal location is a BIG one. I find it hard to do reliably in my Talon but extremely easy in my Mazda. In my Talon I wear my workboots so I get a bit wider base to even be able to do it at all as the gas and brake are too far for me. I may have to weld on an extra piece or machine some sort of extension, because I had my foot slip off during a heel-toe while auto-xing and it almost got messy very quickly.

When I got my Mazda, I had never driven standard - my dad threw me the keys and said go for it. I knew the entire process, but only in theory. I told myself from day 1 I would ALWAYS rev-match, and I always have; never do I ever slip the clutch to downshift. That is the first step in being able to heel-toe. After that it was just getting used to braking and pressing gas at the same time and further to that, the right amount of brake/gas modulation.

I heel-toe/rev-match all my downshifts on a daily basis, the more you do it, the better you'll get it. It just takes practice, like any aspect of becoming a good driver. But like I said, make sure you can confidently and comfortably rev-match downshift before venturing into heel-toe. If someone has a GoPro they want to lend (2 would be even better), I can make a video showing it, although there are plenty out there. Or you're all welcome to come for a ride, although you won't be able to see much of my feet.



I saw that, but I'm going to be doing my best to make it there with my Talon this summer. The Mazda has seen better days and will need some coin dropped into it if I'm going to feel comfortable beating it as hard as I do. Coin that I'd sooner drop into the Talon.



This is why I haven't tracked her yet. My temps rise a lot even after a pass down the 1/4 mile. Doing the Auto-X at the SO this past summer was hard enough on my temps. I'm planning to do extensive ducting in/around/through the front bumper, but after that I don't know what else to do.

Also hoping to install some custom brake cooling ducts through my front fog light holes, since these cars are heavy and the brakes only so-so.


We need to ask Scott Mcintyre (SP?). I know he extensively tracks his 2G and has done a lot to make it reliable and trackworthy. Anyone talk to him?

You need some of that fancy gold heat reflective tape.

This guy came up with a wicked solution.

http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54543&highlight=gurney

Had this in my saved threads - completely forgot about it, though. Going to be working on getting the air to/through the rad first, and then focus on what happens after that, as right now I feel like my FMIC is blocking WAY too much of the air flow to the rad.

GoPro could be made available.

about time we started talking about proper use of a dsm!

Rob, cooling- with a 14b at 18psi I could get away with no major problem, just an aluminum rad upgrade.

with an evo iii 16g at 20psi I get warm after about 20-25 minutes of chasing my buddies miata on a really hot day. I threw in a hood vent for fun and it makes a big difference, keeps the heat away from the fire wall so i stopped melting sh!t! just a touch of water injection would probably make a huge difference, I'll try that next, means i can run more boost. my old engine ran cooler, my new one has blow by which doesn't help temps.

other than that i wrapped all of my exhaust stuff and then made aluminum shields wrapped in heat wrap to replace the oem exhaust shrouds (especially important for the alternator, they melt quick with no protection).

oh, and make sure you remove your air cond radiator

Funny you mention that, cause my car runs hot with a 14b on the highway or after 1 pass down the drag strip, let alone after lapping. Autox-ing at the SO was the limit of what I could do. I've got an aluminum rad with shroud and dual slim fans. No ducting, currently, but in the works. Thinking of heat wrapping my downpipe in hopes of helping, but I can't imagine that's going to drop my temps down significantly.

Oh yah, no AC, no P/S cooler, etc.

But, got a VRSF FMIC which probably blocks most, if not all of my airflow to the rad, hence my push for ducting.

also best $ spent on dsm handling is fr/rr rmdsm sway bars. makes the car pretty neutral in most conditions and is a good base to work from.

from there camber/caster/toe oh wait you can't do that:) max caster you can get is $$$, makes huge difference but is difficult on oem dsms, especially since dsm's like the minimum front camber you can get away with (due probably to awd, maybe track width too?). I played around a lot and found any thing over 2 deg fr camber made for loss of front traction under power and nasty road manners to boot.

but for those of us with some extra caster laying around and improved camber curve...2 deg is more than enough (works well for autox, have't tried it on the track, may want a bit less). I'm still on stock shocks/dampers though so things could change a bit on stiffer springs

hmm, wrapping down pipe and ducting is important, also make sure no exhaust leaks up there.

Those slim fans are complete garbage, get OEM shrouded ones if you can.

If you are running that hot in a drag or autocross on a 14b (assuming you don't have it set way outside of its efficiency range) you've got a fundamental problem. The OEM system should have no problem with that.

Wrapping the downpipe will be done very soon, as will ducting.

I think I still have one of the OE fans (the car only had one on it when I got it) but not the other. I'd like to pick up some FAL or SPAL fans but they are pricey!

I think the biggest part of my problem is airflow, because even on the highway she runs pretty warm and I'm really not in boost that much, or not very much boost, although with a 14b it's usually just under 0 vacuum/boost when cruising in the 120's. I've got an E16G now, but that got put on right before the end of the season so haven't really seen any road/course time with it.

As for exhaust leaks, I think there may be a very slight one but until I can get a new manifold (and ideally turbine housing), it will never seal 100% perfectly.

Do you really think the oem shrouds pull better air then let's say a mishimoto shroud kit?

Like this one;


Also, when running a road coarse, wouldn't it be a good idea to run "fans full time" using link v3?

I sometimes do it on really hot days and it helps keep the temps in the 180*-190* mark.

I have a pretty much identical setup (aluminum shroud, dual slim fans) and my fans are always on (1Gs use a temp switch, but I wired mine to a toggle switch under my dash, so I keep them on all the time whenever it's hot - ie always).

If you're on a road course, definitely keep them on at all times (or using Link, set your temp threshold low, which will effectively keep them on at all times).

Wish my temps stayed in the 180-190 mark for anything longer than a split second!

Ok, and how "important" is an oil cooler would you say?

For Autox/drag racing/DD...not too important. For road course/lapping, I'd say very important on a turbocharged car. I know I won't be doing any lapping until I get my oil cooler installed.

I'd recommend it for any turbo car in general, but particularly those being driven hard.

I don't personally have numbers to back this up, but I'm pretty sure I've seen comparisons done with data and numbers on either Tuners and or ECM forums. Either way, a well placed oil cooler is going to help keep oil temperatures down quite a bit and indirectly (or directly, depending on what kind of OFH, turbo, etc. you have) keep coolant temps down as well. Not to mention, adding the cooler and lines to the system increases oil capacity therefore increasing overall heat capacity of the oil system.

Figured that aswell! Good info as usual Sal, thank you!

I know the perfect spot to mount one if I do buy and install one this coming season.

I think you have convinced me to grab an oil cooler, I was back and forth about it over the summer, but I think I will pull the trigger after the winter.

Oil coolers definitely make a big difference in temps. i'll be adding one to the Mini before next season. Oil capacity also helps with keeping temps down as Salomon says indirectly.

The stroker 4g63 I'm building will have a moroso extra capacity oil pan and an external oil cooler. Oil capacity should be approaching 9L.

I m the guy with a 600 dollar PS3 racing seat/wheel/clutch/shifter setup and likes to play alot of racing!
Taking the eclipse to do the cayuga road course was some of the best fun I ve had in life haha. I ve been heel toe shifting it as long as I can remember, and on PS3 too. It is actually easer to heel toe the eclipse than the simulator. I was pleasantly suprised how natural my first time on the track felt! Amazed the eclipse put up with it too, was already burning oil and smoking so I was like eff it and gave it sh!t. Did crazy downshifts and revved the hell out of it and it still trooped on. Makes me that much more excited and driven to keep going at my current build.
I too might be scared of my car when I am finished lmao!
All my best friends have every intention to race their cars. Rob gripper from here now has his RX8 in tear down after tracking with me, and we blew the engine on the highway. That thing will be nuts too. He wants to turbo it.
Between all that and driving supercars in vegas, it sure has been hella awesome graduating from the living room and gran turismo 5 haha.

I run a switch to my fans so I can keep them on all the time,easier then booting up link.

Oil coolers are good insurance but I don't think they are strictly necessary. Your oil and coolant temps are usually pretty close after 10 or 15 minutes. With a coolant to oil cooler your temps should stay in the butter zone as long as you have good coolant temps. Remember that low oil temps are JUST AS BAD as high oil temps, the entire oil system was built to run at 200-210F. A bit lower is OK, but below 190F (thermistat temp) I suspect things will be out of their design range. Ever notice you turbo whines a bit until the car is warm? That is oil viscosity changing with temp!

From what I've heard you are probably better off with a trans cooler (yes for manuals), though again, if your coolant temps are under control your trans temps will be not TOO bad (aluminum bell housing connected to engine means everything runs around the same temp after you get warm) but according to my research spraying cooler oil on the gears will help them not explode.

Another helpful thing to do is wrap your coolant pipe with something like this.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo+Tec/893/14020/10002/-1

Interesting Tyler, Never thought of that.
I have however wrapped some of my charge pipe with DEI Cool Tape

I worry about adding the oil cooler to my Mini. Its my Daily during the winter and have the same thought of the oil staying too cold or extend warm up times. I have a thermostat that i would like to put inline for bypassing the oil cooler until required temperature is reached.

I've driven aggressivly around the mall parking lot several time, does that count?

My turning experience is limited to driving a legends race car around an oval track, 10+ years ago. Looking forward to finally getting out & turning some corners this year. I wanted to get out last summer, but didn't seem to find the time, hopefully this year will be better.

Though, I do think I likely now have too much turbo, for any of the tracks I would run on. I can say one thing for sure, I will not be running 35psi on the 82HTA first time on the track

You don't have too much power until you can spin the wheels from apex to apex. Then you just need more grip!

I would be down for some lapping this year. But its expensive. I think you will quickly go thought tires and brakes. I was thinking of doing the advanced driver training course they offer at Cayuga so it was a more controlled environment. But if you guys set up a group outing I would be interested. I know a lot of clubs rent out the track and it brings down the price if you have enough people going.

I have an oil cooler bigger rad,fans and everything is wrapped with thermal tape. The exhaust is also wrapped all the way to the cat. I run 180deg thermostat with water wetter and control the fans with the ac switch. I also use 10w40 royal purple xpr oil. With that set up all of my temps stay pretty normal under all driving conditions from numerous 30psi lapping days(long time ago) to recent numerous 40psi back to back drag passes. I never was able to run my car hard enough for it to get too hot. As long as everything is working properly you will be OK. As for tires if you show up on some 10 year old all season gems you will very quickly finish them off. Shannonville is a great track to learn things about your car and discover your limits. It will also expose all the short cuts you took when working on the car. Loose clamps, bad\old couplers, loose bolts or overdue maintenance. Even if you don't drive there most people that show up there are willing to take passengers. I always thought it's funny when people show up to race and do 2 laps or couple passes down the 1/4 and have to let the car cool down because the car is too hot. Set up the car properly and you will have more fun with it. Whats the sense of having a car that can put out good numbers only under certain conditions on slicks. I know we all have race cars . So get out and enjoy your car and stop making excuses.

Not so sure about that, the HTA 35R has a pretty good kick to it when it spools mid corner. My car is setup to oversteer, so I'm thinking at 35psi, it would be a handful.

At 36psi, it can spin all 4 on a second gear roll on(& were not talking with crap rubber either)

Tim: track days are not too bad for tires as long as you keep them full of air and don't overdrive the car.

For a DSM, in my opinion, you need significantly upgraded brake pads (or a bigger set of brakes all together). My first track day I ran hawk HP+ and they were just barely good enough, but for the same $ you can go to one of their new race pads which have no problem (at least at my power level). With proper pads, they last a LONG time because they are so hard, but they aren't cheap. With regular street pads I would guess you'll melt them in 1 20 minute session.

Funnily enough for such a heavy pig of a car, on stock calipers and brembo blanks with a set of race pads (and freshly bled elf fluid) in I usually have no problem braking with, or out braking, just about anybody in my run group. And I have to slow down more to make it around the corners too!

Daren's got Brakes so he'll be fine.

I'm getting excited for this season. Should be fun with having a couple of you guys come out.

Does anyone know if the 90 oil housing restrict flow to the cooler till its up to temp? I need go back and study it but thought I'd ask.

I'm pretty sure it does. That "Brass" looking thing is responsable for that.

I'm with Ghiz, believe I recall reading there's a temp switch on the 90 housing cooler.

Currently use the Wilwood BP-10 pads daily. They are supposed to be good with what they call "lighter" track use as well. I'm sure they'll be fine to start out with & if required they make options all the way to full out race only in several "blends".

The BP-10's Cf peaks right around the 750-800F range & is a pretty "flat" curve. Pads should be good to the 1000F or so range & ideal area would be ~600-1000F.

All this track talk So when is the first DSM track day this year? I wanna come watch you guys drive your DSM's in circles around Shannonville. I dare not beat on any of my cars. I'll bring the popcorn though or maybe a BBQ

Most clubs have yet to release there schedules but i'll likely be going out with either of these two groups this year.


http://www.touge.ca/index2.htm
http://www.sigmatimeattack.ca/

I'm budgeting 4 or 5 tracks this year. Should finish off the set of RS2s I have.

Yay, Reza's cooking us lunch!

Can we coordinate something here?

http://www.calabogiemotorsports.com/

My pleasure. Let's make it a DSM day since we have soo many track racers in this thread. Lunch for club DSM....

Good luck!!

$300 per person for a full track day, unless the fees have gone up. You have to buy a $3000 package which can be split between ten guys on one day or used by one person. I tried getting something together there a while back, the fees were outrageous.

And for the GTA guys, it's a bit of a hawl.

Cayuga, Shannonville or Mosport would be my choices.

Heck even 20 pers; that would mean $150 each.

Problem would be to have that many to comit and follow through...

Ghislain

There's another forum which is Ottawa based; mco.org. And I plan to join these guys.

A co-worker of mine tracks there weekly from 5pm-7pm for I think $150...

When I register and get some experience here under my belt, I'll post up some dates and times if we can make an event of it.

It's a GORGEOUS track!

Gorgeous it may be, but $150 for 2 hours (and who knows how much of those 2 hours you actually get on the track) is ridiculous. I can get a full day of lapping at many closer tracks for that price or not much more...

Sorry, it's $130. And you're right, it's still pretty steep.

When I get there, and get going, I'll post back more info.

I use to Lap at S'ville, the organiser was from Kingston and use to charge $75 or less for a 3hrs block.

I even paid as low as $35 for a 3 hour block. This Dude use to only allow "selected" individuals to Lap. I even seen a few idiots getting kicked out for not allowing faster cars to pass. His organization was flaless.

Attrition would allow those who had reliable cars to lap till thet ran out of fuel.

I'll try to contact him and see if he is still around.

Ghislain

Cayuga has evening lapping for a reasonable price, especially towards the middle of the summer when it doesn't get dark until late.

Well organized track days are fun.

Poorly organized track days (AKA anything done by a honda club:)) are usually just scary.

Best quote ever by an organizer:
"When you go to a track day no one is impressed with how fast your car is, they are impressed when you don't hit them"

Or they are impress that you are still running for 45 mins straight during the last hour of the day.

The variety of awesome cars that show up at those Touge events makes their outings look like a real fun time.

Hey Ghis, the Kingston boys are still doing the Shannonville lapping days you can find them here.

http://stlac.ca/
They go to many different venues. I get the occasional e-mail from Zclub about an event at Sville, some are invitational only so you have to check with them.

I've been to many stlac events, they are TOP notch.

i haven't done the long track at shannonville yet..never been to calabogie, but i looked at mosport on google maps, and it looks awesome.

My first track day of the year will be June 30th. Between moving the shop, studying for exams and getting the car prepped doubt I can make it to one before then.

i'm in for June 30th, Sigma Time Attack. Who else wants to join?

You will really enjoy yourself going out there with the Sigma guys. I will probably come visit on the 30th, but I don't think my car will be ready yet. Still need to find another rim for my R-Comps to replace the broken one.

Wont be able to free myself for that day...

Daren, you better speak up and come out! I'm not powder coating your stuff if you say no!

Time attack for my first outing? WTF happened to baby steps

Most of the day is open lapping. The time attack portion is only in the afternoon. If you don't want to run your car through time attack, I'll do it for you

Spent monday at shannonville. Got to really test out my new suspension set-up. Even on nearing end of life sumitomo BS street tires I was keeping up with most of the cars in my rungroup. Still can't hang with guys in Z06's that know what they are doing, but I can hang with guys in vipers that don't konw what they are doing! Speeds through turn 1 were 140, a bit higher at times the long straight I usually let off at 170km/hr to try to save my brakes for the rest of the course.

Finally found where the oil smoke I've had for a while is coming from...my catch can! So I guess probably bad rings or bad valve seals but didn't effect power (nice cool day = boosty boosty).

WIth the extra speed I carry through corners I learned I need more brakes, when I was slower last year a good set of pads was sufficient but I took a 3/4 new set of race pads down to metal on metal in 8 sessions!

For posterity I ran my konis full soft in the rear and 1 turn from hard in the front, seemed to have good balance.

Tire pressures were set to 36psi all around in the morning and let a bit out of the fronts as the day got hotter (end of session pressures were around 40/36 front rear).

With my 1.5-2.0 degree front camber and ~0.75 degrees rear my tire wear was very even. Also not really much noticable tire wear other than tearing off any remaining sharp edges on the tire blocks (though I am pretty good about using feedback from the tires to make sure I don't over drive them).

My new radiator ducting made a huge difference. Temp needle never moved once! Compared to last year where most sessions ended with my DSMlink 'you're motor is about to over heat' check engine light.

Sounds like a good time. Let me know when you're hitting the track next - I'd love to come see you run and even ride along if the spot is free

Post pictures of your rad ducting...I am going to be doing my own in upcoming weeks (as well as ducting for the front brakes) and am always interested in different setups. What material/thickness/etc. did you use and how did you mount it?

Where abouts are you in ontario?

Can't really get pics of it now, its all under the bumper. I just bought a roll of aluminum sheet(maybe 0.06") from canadian tire (impulse buy). I used cardboard to test different shapes until I found something that looked like it would do the trick.

I used one piece on each side between the intercooler and rad (several tabs sticking out to fill gaps). I used aluminum tape to attach it and fill in all gaps. I also made some small pieces of sheet to make sure the intercooler was sealed to the bumper support/cross member thing (that includes the back side of the support beam). Last step was to remove the hood latch fill in all the holes on the top of the latch support.

I like the aluminum tape look when I open the hood...why? 'cause racecar!

I'd love to know what you do for brake ducts. Many have tried, few have succeded.

I'll pm you.

You did basically what I was thinking of for ducting...the tape and all

For brake ducts, I'm still thinking about it...would have a lot more options if I had access to a (TIG) welder. I have access to a machine shop, but no welders.

My main concern right now is rad ducting first, brake ducting second.

When I can afford to, I'm going to grab a Scirocco style rad so I can move it a fair bit forward, grab a single SPAL/FAL extreme-duty fan and duct my rad straight out the hood with a sealed duct. I'm sure you've seen the thread on tuners where the guy does it on his 2G.

I have seen that thread! Very cool!

Hey isn't it all concealed too? So you could run it like that all year round if you really wanted to.

post a link of said thread please.. I wanna see too!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/386716-my-ducted-radiator-setup-road-racing.html

You're welcome!

That would be it.

Thanks for saving me a trip through my thousand bookmarks