They are 6mm in diameter, and about 8mm in length. A 7 bolt squirter presses into the block in a reamed hole.

If I remember correctly, when I priced some out during my build, they were less than 10 bux each?

Id also like to add, if u managed to get one out of the block, chances are its now damaged from pounding on the nozzle part and it will need replacing. There's not really any way to remove them with finesse

What about drilling and tapping for 1g style squiters? EVOs went back to the original 6-bolt style squiters which is what i have used in my 6-bolt block

No room, I'll show u later. Unless u mean doin it to the main galley like a 6 bolt. Could be done I suppose.

Built 7 bolt here as well. I have seen plently 7 bolts making big power, so didn't have any worries about it not being as strong as a 6 bolt.

Couple things I did with my build, have the soft plugs removed from the crank to be sure its 100% clean, crank was then nitrited (magnafluxed, polished, etc), oil squirters were blocked off, ARP mains w/MBCAD dowel kit,(align bore). Oil galleys cleaned up in the block& work done with torque plate.

I was not aware that there might be a third type of bearing Mitsubishi used. I am pulling an engine from 99 GST Spyder. Is there a chance that I have "one piece thrust bearing"?

Not a 3rd type of bearing, just the one piece bearing like the earlier 2g's, pre split thrust design. The only other 98+ model year cars that I've come across also posting having the one piece thrust bearing were fwd 98's, probably all early build dates. Based on when they switched to the 2 piece design in the awd's, mine should have been the two piece design, but it was not (engine VIN matches). I would think by 99 model year, your fwd would be the two piece version, but only way to know for sure it too open it up

My miss read your post, my mistake.

I compiled a few pics from the web that show difference between split vs none split bearing design.
Split thrust bearing (98-99 block):

none split thrust bearing (95-97 block)

Side to Side:


Anyone have better pics please post.

Still few questions unanswered for me:
Is there anything different in revised block other than bearings?
Can split thrust bearing from revised block be installed into none revised block?

Not sure if this one is true but is 2GB head has better cooling capabilities than 2GA head?

Alex, doesn't your second picture show both?

weird....looks like it but this block is from 95

wait it was 1995 Evolution III
http://www.ca.dsm.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=363356

No, not all main bearings have a thrust surface for the crank.

No Alex, blocks are machined differently for both styles of bearings, their not interchangeable.

Ok so than I am confused as to what makes a bearing a split or un split.

I have been trying to find pictures online with no luck.

There is only one thrust bearing on our motors, its in the middle journal of the crank. Thrust means its a bearing for linear load, not centrifugal.

non split thrust



Split thrust

So is it the fact that it's three pieces that makes it split thrust?

I am confused how I was incorrect on stating that the picture has one split and one not.

Correct

A Non split thrust consists of two halves, both having the thrust portion on them

A Split thrust consists of one half with only the centrifugal bearing, and the other half containing three pieces, of which two are thrust, and one for centrifugal.

The idea is, when torquing the caps, the two non split thrusts can bind, and miss align, causing premature wear, and if there's a loss of oil pressure, its harder for oil to get in there.

With a split thrust, there's no chance of binding from torquing the girdle, and nothing to align, cause there's only one half existing.

Also, its now easier for the oil to enter the thrust area.

There is only ONE thrust bearing on our motors, split or non split.

Cool! Thank you sir!

So only one of the main crank bearings is a thrust bearing?

Correct. Its in the middle. Its funtion is to keep the crank in place from side to side (flywheel to belt sprocket)

It has two functions actually, it also performs in the same manner as the other main bearings do, with the added side portions, hence the name "thrust"

I wish I could just connect my brain to your brain and just download everything!!
Thanks for all the info Rob!

+1

THIS!!!!!

Rob, thanks for info and pics.


Thanks for clearing that up.


Are you saying based on your VIN number you should have revised but you didn't? Can we use "god sent" CAPS to match-up part numbers between revised and none-revised blocks? I know there is part number for complete short block.



I have two motors in my garage with tranny removed.
96 with 230k
99 with 160k.
Both motors "click" when I push on flywheel inwards. However, 96 has slightly louder click. It sounds like it has more bearing wear but they are not far apart. Should be able to reuse 96 as is for next season. 99 will sit on engine stand as a spare motor.

No, I just ment the VIN stamped on the motor matches the VIN of the vehicle. I've never checked what version bearings come up with my VIN in CAPS but I guess I could check & see.



Easy now guys, Robs going to start to think he knows what he's talking about

I tried VIN from my talon, 1999 GSX, and my 1999 Spyder. Short block part number is always the same MD330756. CAPS no good for this.

Ah, and now I know I always wondered!

The best thing you can do to any car to prevent crankwalk is disable that clutch safety switch and never ever sit at a stoplight with the clutch depressed. Personally I don't even put it in gear before it turns green, and so far my unopened 97 7 bolt has made it to 290 000 km without a hint of crankwalk. Sure people will criticize this from a safety standpoint, but if you really try to start your car in gear and not even have your e-brake on, you probably deserve bumping your other car or garage door (and if it's a strangers car hopefully you have the good sense of leaving a note!)

I think that's the most frustrating part of taking my car for e-test or to a mechanic for any other reason. Every time I get in the car they leave it in gear, and sometimes I forget to check and then just try to start the car and get a nice surprise.

This is why I think it has to do with poor craftsmanship in the build.. Substandard quality. NOT poorly designed oil injectors. If it was poor design.. then There wouldnt be anymore 7 bolts at this time. There are many 2g 7bolts out there that have not been taken care of and are still running strong at high milage. If it was the injectors then they would be all gone!


Thank you for listening to my Drunk rant!

Yes..Mitsu doesn't exactly have an exemplary QA especially for the timeline when 2G's were being built.

"Mitsubishi Motors admitted today that it had systematically concealed customer complaints about tens of thousands of defective automobiles since 1977.

The admission by Mitsubishi, Japan's No. 4 automaker, came a month after its top executive had denied accusations that it had covered up problems that included faulty fuel tanks, clutches, crankshafts and brakes."
By MIKI TANIKAWA
Published: August 23, 2000
The New York Times

I'm starting to understand why every old school mechanic's first reaction when I say Mitsubishi is "POS" or a variant of that..but somehow we still love our cars don't we. (I've owned DSM's for 10 years and I can't see myself not owning one)

That and clear coats!!!!

I am pretty sure you will find similar complaints if not worst if you study their competitors. I believe that most car owners, who know nothing about physics or how car operates in general, are responsible for making chain of complaints based on nothing at all.



This is the QA that proves it all.