OK, I am trying to install rear shocks and I want to replace the bushings at the same time (urethane). I figured I would just take the knuckles off so I could press the old ones out. Pretty much the only bolts on the car I haven't touched. Not working out so well though.

1. There is one bolt that is like 6" long that won't come out, it hits the gas tank and does not allow me to remove the lower control arm (the one that connects to the sway bar). Do I really have to cut this off?

WTF mitsubishi?

2. My toe control arm bolt seemes to be seized in the inner sleeve (took the nut off but nothing moves). THis has to be fixed to lower the car, also the ball joint boots are toast so will have to be replaced.

Do I have to cut this stupid thing off as well? Pretty much have to cut the arm in to 2 or 3 pieces to get at it. ARGH.

3. ABS sensor seems to be completely seized into the knuckle...cut it?

4. How do I disconnect the parking brake cable...I'm NOT cutting that! Do I take off the disc and go from that side?

Other than that it is going well.

So what you're saying is you should have left the wheels on and the car on the ground and stayed happily oblivious to the disaster that lay underneath.

A lot of those issues seem to be pretty common to 2Gs, based on the stuff I've read/seen over the years.

Yeah, except I have to be able to adjust toe to lower it and there is no way I am putting on my new suspension on almost 20 year old bushings.

Castle Thrust. Find it, stock up on it, and SOAK the underside of your car with it. It comes in a spray can, and makes rust it's bitch in a matter of minutes.
http://www.castlepackspower.com/index.cfm?Page=Castle%20Thrust

Screw those bolts as they hardly do anything when they aren't seized.
Spend a couple donaro and do this:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/handling-tech/382953-cheap-rear-toe-arms-solution.html

I have this in my GSX and it works flawlessly. No issues to date.

Looks like a great product, know of anywhere it is sold locally by chance?

If enough people are interested, I could do a group buy through my work. We need it because we operate snow plows straight from the 70s. Our newest acquisition is an 86 GMC....

theres no way around cutting those bolts, and buying new ones. Been there, done that.

My toe sleeve was seized as well. Heat, wd-40, more heat, lots of bashing. New bolts will be needed as well. Ziggy stocks them.

Parking brake cable comes off when you remove the bearing hub from the knuckle, you can then get inside the inner workings of the parking brake assembly and take it off. The cable steel sleeve that leads into the mechanism will most likely be rusted to the hub plate, pound it out.

Ill give you my next pay check if you can get an ABS sensor out without bashing it out.

Good luck

From the shop or BS?

Everything Rob said ----^ Been there done that as well.

Fortunately those rear ABS sensors are usually already broken by the time you get there.

Thanks for the tips.

Just to confirm Rob, I have to remove the bearing flange (i.e. remove the bolts on the inboard side of the upright) in order to remove the hand brake cable?

I'm going to see if I can drop the rear sub frame to remove the long bolts tonight (that seems to be what the Mitsu manual says to do), otherwise the CHOP.

Johnny do you have the part numbers you used (and where you got them from) for those arms? Or at least make and model year. I don't feel like standing around in a parts store for 2 hours test fitting parts...would make toe adjustment a LOT easier!

I love my car, I love my car, I love my car.

Oh and my ABS sensor exploded when I tried to get it off, so it is already toast.

All I have is a 2002 (or similar) intrepid, and I used the same outer tierod ends that are used on our car. Went to crappy tire for them. The whole thing (with paint) cost about $60

Johnny,

All I can find are toe links that have threaded ends, none with the threaded rod like the ones you showed. I don't think I could find tie rod ends to fit them, also they are like $90 each from partsource.

The wrong ones

The threaded rod is from the Intrepid. It's actually 3 pieces. The dual end threaded rod, and the 2 end caps of which you only need one.

did you look at the link though? These ones have no threaded rod. So while they would work fine for their intended purpose they wouldn't work here.

How long ago did you get these? You said you got them from CT?

Whoops, just saw that link now. No, I'm not using those. I'm using the ones from the tuners link. I just picked up an additional set of outer tie rod ends (same part number for a 2G Eclipse/Talon) and they threaded right up to the intrepid part.

If this isn't want you're looking for, then I'm confused somewhere....

I think the confusion is that when I try to buy the intrepid arms they look like the ones in the link I posted(which are wrong).

So where and when did you get yours, cause I can't find them in that style.

Speaking from the experience of a guy who's just redone his entire rear from the door jams back....

2G Rear suspension unless it just rolled off the factory floor can be a pain in the ass.

I cut my old bolts out and bought new ones. I also replaced the arms with new OEM. Set it and forget it.

The knuckle bushings are a pisser too. Good luck pressing in the new urethane ones. Make sure you have lots of lube and patience.

I'll add that getting the old ones OUT is MUCH more of a PITA than getting the new ones IN

Especially the two at the bottom. Trailing arm and toe arm. They are at an angle, and maneuvering the entire knuckle to a position on a press, or mill, trying to get the bore perpendicular to the axis of the press, to hack them out is just Faking awesome, You'll see.

Also, dont waste your time on Energy suspension, go prothane, the material is better, and the kit comes with WAY more parts. I had pressed out all the bushings in the knuckles and arms, only to find that the energy kit was missing almost half of them needed.

Also, the knuckle bushing for the upper control arm, Definitely use prothane, the engergy bushing is too soft, and from what Ive read, and told from personal experiences, they wear out in a year.

I am certain I have a solid 20 hours worth of work in my rear end rebuild. Its just what it is.

Also dont drop your subframe unless you want to do those bushings as well. Just cut the control arm bolts. The cost of a bolt is not worth the hassle of fighting with the subframe if you dont intend to rebuild it as well.......ie bushings and such.

Hack, cut and burn. That is the only way to fly.

Those 2G Rear Lower Control Arms and related Hardware are not that expensive. Save what can be easily removed and replace the rest.

Like Rob said some of the Rear Knuckle's Bushings and be a pain to remove. Fire would be my choise if I'd have to do this again.

Use lots of lube before you push the new Bushings in.

Ghislain

Fire takes care of the rubber part, but what about the sleeve? They are always welded with rust to the casting of the knuckle.

I tried on an arbour press, I ended up going to a manual bridgeport mill, and plunging with a cutter into the side of the sleeve to get it to collapse and fall out.

Not fun.....at all.

You can just cut the sleeve with a torch in 2 spot then just tap it out. Of course if you are not skilled with a torch probably better off paying someone to do it.

I know Brad has access to a machine, which is better than melting your lower control arm press bent sheet metal with a torch

An oxy/acetylene torch is the only way to get it hot enough on the cast parts. Propane will just make you swear more

Oh well if he has a machine then yeah. Propane is garbage other then to cook hotdogs. I have done hundreds of bushing and never melted any contol arms

A 2g lower control arm is very flimsy, the material is actually thinner than the sleeve of the bushing. It would be sketchy to try and burn it out. The knucle however, I agree, torch the thing if u have the means.

Back to the Intrepid control arm issue, I just went to a wrecking yard and pulled them off some destroyed '00 or '02 model. I didn't buy them new but I did refinish them before they were installed. Costed me a whopping $10 for both. Woot.

Thanks for all the tips.

Johnny: ah,that makes sense. Yours are OEM. Not sure I have the patience to go to a wreckers, I may just buy OEM ones.

I got everything off except passenger axle won't come out. Seems like tomorrows problem. Put in a valiant effort to get everything off tonight but whatever. I ended up dropping the subframe to get the long bolts out, it actually came down really easily (rust is not USUALLY an issue on my car). The toe arms I cut off, ABS sensors just smashed until the wire came off, sensor didn't budge!

For the bushings I think I'll just mill them out if the 25 ton press doesn't work. I have a whole bunch of urethane if I'm missing any bushings too!

I've been keeping an eye on this thread because I know I'll be in this position soon. Definitely a lot of great info, as usual!

As for those rear toe links - Brad, I'll be at work tomorrow morning (parts supplier) and I was planning on trying to find a combination that works. You linked a Raybestos part that was built a little bit backwards, but I'll see if ACDelco, Moog, Mevotech, Beck/Arnley, or Dorman offer it with the male threads we're after.

I'll see what I can find, and post up any part numbers/approximate costs if I'm successful.

I borrowed this wicked tool a few months back to get the rear axle out of my subaru. It clamped to the hub using your lug nuts, and has a big acme screw that pushes the spline in.

Maybe Stephen knows what its called? I have yet to see one in stores. I want one badly to have on hand. This tool was invaluable!

I think I've seen something like that in the tool catalogs at work. I'll have a look tomorrow and text you a price if I find it.

something like this ?

http://www.foerch.hr/documents/thumbs/-1750202911_20111801082848_150x150_Pad_1_0.png

Same idea but thats a gear "puller".

This tool "pushes" and clamps to the hub face via your lugs.

I looked around on the web last night and it looks like aftermarket pieces for some Hondas (preludes, early accords) might work. They have the same ball joint/bushing combination and look around the same length. Megan racing sells them.

Jeremy: I'm thinking easiest would be those backwards intrepid arms with different male threaded tie rod ends. Nifty cross reference here. I just hate the thought of putting new OEM arms on and having to deal with their stupidness next time (I tend to adjust things a lot)

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/Universal_Outer_Tie_Rod_Ends.asp

Male threaded tie rod ends was the other option I was going to try. It all depends on how busy we are though Luckily I start full time again on Monday so I'll have more time to play with parts

Thanks for the link! If I can get the entire assembly (link and tie rod) in Moog, that would be my preference.

ahhh, now I get it

Sorry for the confusion, I dot have any problems with English until it get's technical ( still have to learn the names of tools and technical stuff, hope you guys will bare with me )

When you find that tool, please post a picture of it.

It is called a hub press or axle press. OTC tools makes it. And it works awesome

Rob, if you find one let me know where you borrowed it from (assuming you don't purchase it), as I could most definitely use it if/when I ever need to try and get my driver's side front axle out.

Rob (or anyone): do you know what fails in the ES rear upper control arm bushing? Does the hole just elongate or is it the ears pulling off?

I bought the ES kit years ago and just never did the rear.