Are you talking about a "hub puller"?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/t_10153_12605?i_cntr=1366377979898&tName=front-hub-puller.html

Those are them.

Pretty sure I have seen that first one at Princess before.

Some are too shallow to get over the Axleshaft the first one is a POS. Look at the 5th one.

This one is the only one I can find at princess.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8309262/Pullers-And-Bearing-Tools/Slide-Hammer-Puller-Kit

Nice, not sure how I missed this tool every time I go there.

Those things work really well, work best if you tighten it up then hit the screw with a mallet/hammer.

Rob: did you read my question re: what fails on the upper control arm bushing (1 page back before the side track)?

The energy suspension kit upper bushing is not good a enough replacement for that spot, they wear within a year or so. The rubber splits and falls apart from what Ive been told from some one with experience, and from what I read on Tuners. I was suggesting you go with the Prothane kit, its bushings are better for our cars.

This of course is assuming your replacing all bushings in the knuckle.

I've used that tool before. I failed when trying to remove my rear axles the first time. I ended up stripping the "acme" screw right out of it. oops....

Lower quality one's will.. The trick is if siezed that bad you tightend the sh!t out of the axle nut that frees up the rust. I once had one of those cheaper slidehammers pull the threads in mid swing put my hand and the tool threw the window of the car beside me.

LOL!! Great mental image there. Thanks for that.

I used a small slide hammer in my trade also, and I made my own. I decided to "improve" upon the one I copied by making the area the slide works against much larger, same diameter as the sliding weight. Very first swing I pinched my flesh in there and had quite a red spot for quite some time. Needless to say, I undid my "improvement"

Insert end mill makes quick work of the bushings!

Johnny, any luck on the frankenstein toe arm?

What is an Insert end mill?

What do you mean? Mine work perfectly and allowed me to lower my car with keeping the rear toe in spec.

My bad Johnny, it was Jeremy that was going to look for mating pieces to frankenstein a toe link out of part store parts. I'd love to stand in a parts source for an hour and open every box and try to fit things together but somehow I think I would wear out my welcome.


An insert end mill is an end mill that uses indexible carbide inserts. With a nice tough insert material it will go through anything without the worry of chipping or breaking if you don't have the right speeds or no coolant or whatever. Makes sparks, smokes, bangs, smashes. You get a strong edge from the insert with the strength/fracture resistance of a tool steel shank. I use it like a sawzall...Rob would probably not approve.

I used to break end mills all the time with fab work (nothing is ever straight, always chattery etc), the inserts seem to be indestructable.
http://cfnewsads.thomasnet.com/images/large/029/29954.jpg

Hydraulic press with about 5t got the first two bushings out of the knuckle, the last one is at a weird angle so I poped out the centre metal piece using a bolt and some washers then clamped it in a vice and plunged the insert endmill in a couple places to cut the outer ring and it poped out. Took all of 5 minutes.

Jesus still sounds like greek to me. I will stick with my gas axe. Is it just a bit on a rotary tool?

Yeah I'm going to take a look tomorrow when I'm at work.

ATTA BOY!!!

Finally got the other knuckle off. Only one problem...its still connected to the axle! I tried an axle pusher+mallet+tightening and loosening it, everything but heat, for about 5 hours and it moved about 1mm.

I'm hoping I'll find a way to mount it in my press to get it out, otherwise I'll just drill the fugger out and get a new one.

Can't wait until the next time I do this and it comes out all coated in copper.

You can take the axle and bearing out as one piece. That would make it easier to get set up on your press, and then separate the bearing and axle cup.

Where are you located? Want some of that thrust stuff??

Okay, good news/bad news.

Bad news: we were swamped. One guy had back problems and didn't show up at all. The other slept through his alarm and showed up late. The first bit, I was alone

I barely had any time to look into these, but what I did find was that Moog has the same design as the Raybestos one. Mevotech generally copies Moog. I can look into Beck/Arnley and ACDelco from home (and will do so). We had nothing in stock for me to play with, and I didn't have time to check my warehouses (but I'm sure one will have them).

Oh... and I lied. No good news

Well my good news is that my press goes up to 35t, even though it is only rated for 25t. It spit oil all over the place but the axle came out. I ended removing the CV boot and splitting the axle as suggested so I could get it in the press.

Now just need to make a custom upper bushing and figure out this toe arm thing.

Make sure you didn't mushroom the end of that axle! I did that once. I didn't notice it until I got it back in and the castle nut wouldn't fit. Kinda went like this ".... why isn't thi...fffrrrraaaaacccckkkkk......"

Yeah, I'll just turn down the end of the thread where it is fubar'd, no way the nut is going on as it is.

Bushings are on, I sandblasted any rust and will paint today/tomorrow. Installation is the reverse of removal;)

I see the light! Thank you all for you inspiration along the way. Hopefully Jeremy comes through and we can ditch the stupid OEM toe control arm.

BTW if anyone is ever doing this I'll help you out by pressing the old bushings out on my hydraulic press. You'd be insane to do it any other way.

And where are you located for that?

hamilton/ancaster

Hmmmm... Could work.

Bradley, I assume that means that when we do our cruise this summer that you will be joining us. We cruise through the hamilton ring on our way to cayuga or just on our way to ancaster.

We'll see. I joined up a couple years ago, harder now with two young kids!

Alright first drive around the block tonight!

For the toe arms this is what I ended up doing:

Rear toe control arms from a '00 intrepid (brand Mevotech). This has a ~1" bar with female threads on both ends (one right hand one left hand thread), both M18x1.5. Each end has a threaded in bushing. I shortened the bar by a bit on either end and threw out the right hand thread one.

I bought a tie rod end from a '95 talon which has a female M14x1.5 thread. I made an adapter which is M14 to M18 male to male to attach the tie rod end (material is 17-4 which is high strength heat treatable stainless steel). Overall length is about 13" with some adjustment on either end.

I also made spacers to go on either side of the bushing to fit the actual space available (80mm width) and reduce the bushing bore down to a 12mm bolt.

Final piece you need is the washers that go on the frame side of the car. I made my out of 3/16" aluminum, they are round approx 32mm OD with the sides flattened. I believe you could just use the OEM ones there if you wanted.

I originally tried a male tie rod end for a '95 intrepid but the taper on it was not the right angle (note ours is a 7degree angle), my adapter that I made spaced it too far away from the arm and when I tightened the nut it broke the thread off at the pin hole. If another male ended tie rod end could be found with the right thread then it would make everything a lot easier.

Adjustment was easy and it looks trick.

Nice overhaul and good info Bradley!

Sorry to hear the tie rod off the '95 wouldn't work! Glad to hear you got everything sorted out anyway.

Hopefully I'll be able to piece together a more bolt-on setup as the summer goes on. Once I'm moved and have my car on the road I'll be able to spend more time getting something set up.

I'm sure I'll be bugging you when it comes time to get this setup bolted on to my car!

Interested to see what you did. Have images?? I'm just curious why you needed the M14 to M18 adapter.

The DSM tie rod end is known to have the exact same taper as the rear toe arm. Unfortunately it's a female M14 thread, and the aftermarket toe arms for the Intrepid use an adjusting sleeve with an M18 female thread.

The adapter was to make sure he had the right taper for the application, while still being able to mate to the arms that he just spent a bunch of money on and can't return after cutting

I guess we did something completely different then. For my setup I was able to use the same outer tierod with no issues. Would still like to see though

Yeah, the first problem we ran into is that aftermarket lateral links for the '00 Sebring use an adjusting sleeve rather than an adjusting rod (which is the OEM style). The OEM style threads into the DSM tie rod, the aftermarket ones do not.