Were close, about 7-10 days away from being operational to some capacity

If you need a hand, I'm free during the days up until 2200.

I'm in debate whether to go with a hx52 or a hx40 w/batmowheel for next year, so a stronger rear would be nice. Having too stiff a ride isn't much a concern for me, but I'm more interested in how much their rear end improves handling. Also looking at gofer's subframes on tuners as he's also fabbing a front one.

Unless you're making a track beast, you should be ok with the stock one. You're going to feel every imperfection in your shifts and if it's your DD, I imagine you'll get quite frustrated in traffic. lol

Possibly. I'm hoping for at least 700 at the wheels, but we'll see. There's always that Frontline fabrications rear cover for much less . With a clutch that likes to readjust its grabbing point mid drive, it's already frustrating xD.

I may have overlooked it, but are you doing anything for your rear end? Solid/poly bushings?

Stocky stock stock. All of the bushings are still in pretty good shape so I'm not going to worry about replacing any of them.

Did you do it by hand? If so, invest in a random orbital air palm sander. Will make the job so much easier & you'll achieve much more professional looking results. After doing my first sub box by hand I picked one of these up for the second one I made. Never again will I sand bondo by hand.

I've never used POR-15 but I will recommend Rust Bullet, its tough stuff & easy to get locally. When I did my research, most liked this better then POR-15.

As far as I know, "Gofer" doesn't make subframes, but he did test out the rear subframe that Paul Volk makes

Not to get off track, but there are many other areas to address first before ever looking at a tubular subframe.

There are threads on this...everyone says HX40. The HX52 is a bit of a funky turbo and the HX40 is looking like it'll be getting TalonDave into the 7's...so that should be MORE than enough I can dig up the posts on Tuners if you want.

Sorry, meant to say 99gst_racer. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cus...ar-front-k-member-build-share-ideas.html

Thanks Salomon. I'll keep searching and see if I can find it (may have already). The more I think about it, the more I want to go HX40 with the bat wheel. Really seems like a great combo and will get my to my goals. Also thinking of making it into a road race car, so HX40 would definitely take the win as turbo of choice. If it will spool fast enough. I'm sure I can figure something out.

Yea, thats Paul




I will 100% be getting one of those next time. I had an air sander, but the disk on it was only about 1.5" so it was near impossible to get a smooth flat surface. For hand sanding, it's acceptable. There are still some little "dimpled" looking areas but for the most part it's flat and I'm happy with it. We'll see how it looks with the primer dried.

HX35 or HY35 will get you 500whp without much issue and spool a fair bit faster. HX35 in BEP .55AR bolt-on housing will lose a bit of top end (vs a larger AR housing) but will have you at full boost (or at least 20+ psi) by high 3k RPMs. Quick response and tons of power. Built a true twin-scroll manifold and gains increase more. HY35 has no bolt-on housings which is its biggest drawback. Tons of threads and research out there for each turbo. HX40 is a fantastic option though and doesn't spool THAT much slower than an HX35 (especially relative to what it can put out).



I have a palm sander. Let me know if you want to borrow it...you'll just need to pick up a box of the sanding pads for it as I'm pretty sure I killed all mine off.

Thanks Sal. I found it tricky conforming the bondo and spreader to the curves of the box... I ended us sanding away some fibreglass anyhow to get rid of some dimples. Not too much though

I've already got an HX35 running 32psi, but I'm bored of it now. It's all relative though. Going to try for better handling.
(Sorry about the slight thread jack there, Johnny xD)

wait... bored of an HX35? eerrr.....

Altho Ive felt the wrath of the t3 hx40 in Rubens car and loved it.... I dont thinkit would be much more of a benifet over the hx35 on the street. Unless you have the mitsu housing on the hx35.

That and I know someone with 700hp on there dsm hood... and he says its not very fun as a street car.

I must have set my expectations too high. Its fun and crazy fast, especially when brake boosting in 3rd, but I'm looking for something with more thrill.

I was thinking of getting the batmowheel for the HX40 to improve the spool and top end. Going to try to go for better handling, now that I have a fresh chassis.

When on the street, I do try to stay out of boost, so street wise it wont be much different.

I thinknyou need to start eliminating wheels.... and join the crouch rocket club.

Maybe once insurance finally starts to decrease for me. Haha. I still do love being in a car rather than in the open though.

So, it's been one hell of a week. The parts car is completely stripped and cashed in for it's weight in steel (??) I have parts stashed in corners of the hangar, so if you need anything (and I mean anything!) let me know! More the happy to clear up some space. I'll be updating the FS thread shortly.





I removed the rad support as it's perfectly square and I'm most likely going to throw it on the spyder because it's support is a little wonky. And of course, the subframe bolts. I decided to get all 4 just in case... Something always goes wrong when you don't have a spare.





Our forklift has shorter forks so we had to tie the strut towers to the forklift just to get it off the ground and on the trailer.





And it's final resting spot. Worth $75 at Standard auto wreckers in weight.



NOW!!! On to the fun part
The Spyder was rolled into the shop and put up on jacks. She's ready to go under the knife. Here's a question.. Does anyone name their car anymore?



Would of started when I drove it in, but I forgot the lug key in Cambridge... Thankfully, GG Salomon came through with the key! WOO (still didn't do any work on it... lol)
Also got a chance to run the new jack. This thing is nothing short of amazing. $99 on sale at C. A decent amount of height / pump, and so damn functional. It's a little weighty (80lbs) and a little bit on the high side. There is a whopping 1" under it, so I want to lower the wheels/replace them with a drum and get smaller casters for the rear end. I'm excited to drop/life trannies, subframes, fuel tanks, etc!

I named my car Elvira because every time I think Black Spyders I think of her on the Munsters. She was also a sex symbol....WAY back in the day

Is that some fancy saddle that you got, or is that the way the rack came?

My cars name is Sally ( John spider Sally)

My hybrid Camry is Carmen Electric

I have called mine the black pearl before...Was even gonna repaint the TALON on the back center tail to say PEARL. I call Sandras 1g rosie red.. cause she had a bike the kids all called rosie red that they destroyed on her.

And some more progress on the sound system.
When I installed this 4 channel amp, I forgot that it's a little sensitive to heat and in this summer sun, it tends to get pretty warm even in the bottom of the trunk. But then again, there isn't much room to circulate air thought there so after about an hour or so of pumping music, it locks up and goes into thermal protection mode. Call in the fans!



Should of got a pic of the holes I drilled. Basically started in the center and drilled out in a star pattern. The fans are hooked up to a relay which is activated via the remote switch from the head unit. So the fans only run when the amp is active. The power is obviously hooked up to the 12V and GND.



The fans fit right into the slots and will circulate air in an intake/exhaust configuration from the bottom of the spare wheel well. It should help significantly but time will tell.

I've been using my hole cutting kit quite a bit as well. This was a great buy, again from CT, for only $40!



But, the day has finally come. I completed my sub box!! Didn't quite get to install it because I forgot my 12V and GND distributor boxes at home... So, it'll be installed tonight.
Being installed is a 10" Infinity Kappa. This thing is a piece of art. Selectable 2 and 4 ohm coils, and a beautiful cone.

Everything was sealed on the box using weather stripping and tightly fastened. I installed the wire inputs on the bottom because the part hangs over the wheel well opening and it will be easier to run them nicely.











I can't wait to hear what it can do tonight

Yup. Combo ATV/motorcycle/axle/subframe/tranny/car jack. There is an insert that goes in the center which is the standard round with the 4 teeth used for jacking up cars.



I'm thinking Josylin. Not sure why, it just seems like a sexy/exotic name.

Car looks clean extreme, Need lots of photo's for those of us to follow.
Whats the part # for the jack, can't seem to find that one on there site. Thanks

Damn son that looks good!! Nice work Johnny!

not bad at all for your first fiberglass job

I think Josylin is a great name, as long as you don't pick something common like Elinor or Sarah...you'll be fine

Good job Johnny, Terry named my talon red dragon. He is good with naming DSMs

I named mine Kardashian (gold digging fat assed slut car)

Very appropriate! Lmfao!!

Thanks all. Terry, I attempted something like this before in my Cavalier years back but it looked and sounded like sh!t. Lol. Only 2 layers of glass and I tried to put wood pieces in there to "strengthen" it. Lol. Oh to be 17 again.....

More pictures to come. Completed the install and damn she looks good .

Perfect Rob...you have the gift

well congrats on two things...a proper 'working' fiber glass sub box and upgrading from a cavalier

Needs more palm sander

Just wrap it in gorilla fur.

Finally, some progress! Got the subframe back from sandblasting and it looks great. I still need to get the bold head side of the toe arm bushings out..... Looking like I'll have I get creative.....
As for paint, I'm looking fr suggestions before I blow money on useless crap. What would you recommend as a coating for the subframe, diff, and new control arms? Powder is out of the question from a money, time, and I don't want to press out the earings standpoint. Just a rust proof spray bomb, rubberized undercoating, or what? Cheers.
Brands help.

I think you already know what I'd suggest, starts with 'POR' and ends with '15'