1g 92 AWD

basically it wont go in to gear it doesn't even want to when the clutch is pushed all the way.
so far I have bled the clutch and cleaned the slave, I guess its possible I installed the clutch wrong or something moved when installing the gearbox.
How can I test if the clutch is actually moving and the fork is working as it should.

can you put it into gear with the motor off?

Yes without touching the clutch.

That is normal and good.


so its just grinding when the motor is running?

It wont go in gear at all, it grinds the same way as if you force it in gear. Is there a way to check if the fork is working.

have someone watch the fork by the slave.. when you push the clutch pedel.. does it move? and does it hit the tranny casing? If it does move, and not hit the casing.. you may need to shim the pivit ball. Did you do that when you installed the tranny?

Is this the red 1g shell you bought?

And its a black shell I bought

I dont know what im looking at but it looks like a penis

Click on it, its a video

Not a penis

Ok so I moved the fork by hand and could force it to the left and hit the casing but I had to use a fair bit of force.

Ya... Theres something wrong there. You shouldnt be able to move the protuding end of the fork end to the left....as if the slave was fully extended. You would be manually releasing the clutch and theres no way you could do it with your hand.

Throw out bearing retaining clip let go?

Gonna leave it a week and hope the clutch fairies fix it if not ill pull the tranny.

You should try putting beer out. That seems to atract clutch fairies.... And maybe brake fairies and maft fairies...

Take the boot off and see if you can get a small magnet into the bell housing, then poke around.

Also try the flywheel inspection plate with the magnet again.

If you start it in gear does the vehicle jump forward?

The brake fairies came already so thats one issue down ill try starting it in gear what will that tell me though it definitely selects a gear.

It will tell you if your clutch is disenguaging. From your video it you seem to movement at the slave.

Just make sure it isnt on stands have all the wheels on the ground and lots of room in front of you incase it does.

Will do would it work in reverse?

Yeah any gear you like should work

More room for error going backwards lol

Ok so it moves when I turn it over in gear.

Ok.. We know it will go into gear with the engine shut off. So obviously it will try to roll forward if you start it in gear.. But it wont go into gear when its idleing... Just grind. And we can see the slave push the fork.... But you can push the fork with your hand so your problem starts there and ends before your tranny. I would agree that your clutch fork or bearing is wrong. I believe you should drop the tranny and install the clutch again.

*cries inside*

LOL Kirk, your almost there!!

It is what it is I guess, looks like its not making it out before winter, and at least my garage is warm.

Mmmmmmm warm garage..

Ya id rip the motor out and start over. Take your time. And at the same time go over the engine bay... Under the dash... Remove everything that dosent belong. Go over the wireing. If its chopped up too bad. Look for a complete unmolested harness. If you have a daily driver and this is a project car.. Then make it a project car for the whole winter. I did this last winter with my 2g shell. I filled a garbage can full of aftermarket wiring and junk from under the dash an engine bay.

If you take your time over the winter... It will be easier to put on the road in the spring. Dont worry about this year... Im already clearing out my 2gs winter bed.

Yeah you have a broken clutch or inproperly installed component. The tranny doesnt take that long to remove on a 1g. Have at her.

That's one typical greasy looking DSM you got there. Looks like everything is leaking. It needs some love.

Sorry if that didn't help with the problem, but looks like the experts are already here

Woah, didn't notice this video before. Do you have a massive coolant leak?

Looks like everything is leaking, i.e. brake fluid from the clutch line, engine oil & coolant all over the trans. Sweaty oil return line and pan. Who knows if the slave is leaking too.

I'll bet someone $10, the transfer case looks no better DSM's like this make me cringe

It was all cleanish until I forgot to attach the feed line for the turbo and it sprayed oil everywhere it will be getting a scrub down once the tranny is out.

Ok so a fellow dsm'er looked at it and reckoned there isnt enough movement on the fork, so I should add a shim to my pivot ball, while its off im going to replace the throw out brearing. I have a act clutch so do I need a act tob or will oem suffice?

go oem, from what I have been reading with different guys experiences the non oem can be noisy sometimes

OEM hands down.

With issues like this, some more info would definately help. What pressure plate, disk, flywheel and step height is it?
What work did you just do on the car? just a clutch change?
Did it shift gears prior to this?

Don't slap the tranny back on without going over all these things. A new clutch fork, pivot ball, a shim, and OEM clutch fork is recommended if you haven't done so already. Also use an OEM slave and master as well.

I received a master,slave rebuild kit and a pivot ball from ziggy yesterday and will be replacing those. The stock clutch was slipping under load before the upgrades it now has a resurfaced flywheel and a act clutch.

Stock flywheel -.615 stepheight. At least that is what I had it cut to.

Ok so new master, rebuilt slave, new pivot, a shim on the pivot and still not dissengaging.

I'd recommend you re-read my last post. Sounds like you are not sure what is going on, or how to diagnose it.

Now you might just need to drop the tranny again. Just throwing new parts at it may or may not solve the problem. Good luck!

Fixed never knew about depressing the slave and then tightening the bleed nipple :s

haha, yeah. Bleeding the clutch is a two man job.

Not really. I've been doing it myself for over 10 years I never need to depress the slave to get all the air out either.

How do you do it?

I use a hose with a 1 way check valve at the end. You don't need to crack the bleeder on the slave all the way open either. Just loosen it a touch so that fluid comes out the hose and not from the threads.

That's cool, yeah that's what we did when we were doing it two person, just enough for fluid to come out the bleeder.

You can also get a bleed kit that consists of a cup/lid with a hose and various bleeder sized ends. Hang it off the open bleeder and you're on your own. I think mine was from Princess Auto.

ok cool! i may just grab one, i have to do all my brakes after they all get replaced so that will be helpful.

Or you can use one of these:
Link

You can use them on anything that uses a bleeder, it doesn't have to be brakes, the bleeders can't tell the difference. I've been using these on my own cars for ages now.

"These come in handy for people that have no friends. Just kidding, they're very useful anytime it's inconvenient to call on the services of a helper."

LOL!

Ok so bringing this back from the dead, I took the tranny off, shimmed the pivot ball, replaced the master, rebuilt the slave and I have clutch movement but its very low engagment point, I have a extended rod but would like some other ideas before I try that, I will be coming home at the start of april for 2 weeks and really want to drive it.

What clutch and PP are you using again? New or used?

Resurfaced stock flywheel and used act clutch, it does work but the engagement point is way down.

Do I need to bleed it then push in the slave and hold it in and bleed it again.

Jacks Transmission how to video.

This might help.

A push rod adjust could help. But how USED is the clutch. Wear on PP fingers?

The clutch was low milage and looked in very good condition, if the flywheel was shaved too much could that be the issue?

My flywheel is -.620 that one is -.615 so I would say no its not the flywheel.

Try adjusting the the push rod first then see how she feels. The only slaves i know of that you have to push back to bleed are the ones that have no bleeder screw.

Then it really has to be a bleeding issue.