They may offer a slight discount as an act of good faith which wouldn't be completely unreasonable but I also don't think it would be unreasonable to expect no discount.

Such is the risk one takes doing the assembly on their own.

Yea jay Stephan brought that up as well as far as rainbow no bearing was spun so I'm gonna assume that means they were still seated correctly

Also with that I do plan to ask him what would have been causing the knock but I'm assuming over the 2000+ miles I'd put on it the bearing eventually scored enough away to make a bigger clearance or they scored unevenly

I am awaiting prices from rainbow for disassembly and hot tank and what parts need swapping then am going to consider doing partial/final assembly myself under the watchful eye of Jedi master reza

I would see what they will do for free to keep a good reputation.. then I wuld takeeverything to reza(or someone you trust that knows how to spec) and have him help you put it back together.

they should never have rushed it for you. if they forgot to chase head stud holes.. the may have missed something else.

Yea I definitely hear you jay over the few years I've owned the dsm, a very valuable and expensive lesson I've learned is never rush or half ass a job

And I've come to tt the same decision as your idea... If Paul doesn't offer a very good deal I will more than likely have Paul hot tank it and depending on what needs to be done more than likely do anot majority of the work with the hopeful help and guidance from reza

So heard back from Paul at rainbow engines.

Head seems to have been saved from any damage just needs a disassembly and hot tanking

New head gasket

Block needs to be disassembled, honed, new piston rings, oversize bearings (going oem), crank grinding, new oil pump cover (old one unsalvagable), potentially a new ofh.

All the above works been quoted just over a grand via Paul at rainbow

Now the debate of how to proceed

Including all parts listed above or labor only ?

That was with performance bearings and I want to go oe so you can say $9-950 everything in with I believe short block assembly

In addition will be the obvious seals, gaskets (head gasket included with Paul's price)

If I were you I would just get it done there so it's ready to go when you picked it up and you spend less down time.

In the interest of saving some $ I am considering having machine work done and take over from there under the watchful eye of reza

I would keep ACL Race bearing if budget allows. It would be nice to get break down of the exact parts will be used. I doubt he'll use OEM oil pump front case. Most of the parts most likely be aftermarket from Topline including headgasket.

Even if parts are aftermarket i still think his offering you a good deal.

If this was your first go I would probably say that's a great idea but because you have already gone through sh!t before I don't think this is a good time to be saving money.

How much would you be looking to save?

Not entirely sure Bryan still have yet to figure that out I plan to go at a turtles pace with the motor work as I am in no rush to get it on to the road... That sustain if I'm running by mid may I'm happy

And Alex i don't think I can put much value on the higher rpm safety with acl race bearings vs the increased sensitivity and in turn precaution I have to take with them just because of my driving style... Local streets some hwy and fwd doesn't allow for much reclining without traction loss lol

If it's only going to $200 or less I would just get Paul to do it.

Whats wrong with ACL bearings?

It's a street car that rarely revs above 7k rpm and they are considerably less forgiving to any debris/contaminants

Oem can handle a lot as Proven by many ppl I've spoken too and are much more. Forgiving

Or maybe look for a low millage running block and just drop it in.

Nothing will be just drop it in for me jay I've considered another block but I'd want to at the least swap new seals, bearings, rings, hot tank , decking