Didnt you just cut it at the ecm? Yes 1/2 psi for every hg of vacuum..

Yes I did.
Are you guys suggesting I set it up so I am running both?

I would try to calibrate the wideband first, before I reinstalled the O2.

Ok will do so today.

I was just suggesting putting a known good factory o2 back temporarily to tune idle and cruise. Then switch back to wideband, if your fuel trims all of a sudden change, then you know your wideband is off.
I'm also running a wideband with NBSim, but I plan to weld in a second bung so I can run both on two different inputs. Just gives me a way to check that both sensors agree with each other.
I checked my logs and compared the injector pulse width at idle between October and December. In October they were about 1.99ms at 13.5v. In December it was about 1.94ms at the same voltage. The lowest it went was about 1.86ms at 13.9v. So I still think that 0.2ms shift you have is suspicious. I'm running a similar setup (SD using FIC1050's.)

I would also suggest getting your airflowperrev at a steady .25-.26. The less air flow will have the ecm injecting less fuel.

^ yes this is much easier (just recalibrating that is). Also make sure the ground is good and that the gauge matches what ECM link is logging

Yeah I think in the long run I would like to weld in a second bung for the wideband and the narrow band.
Let me know what input you will be using for this as I am unsure what the best option for that.

I had originally attempted to get my airflowperrev to be around that and the idle was very unstable, when I shifted it under that it evened it out. After the recal I will do a full retune, that way I know everything is fresh. The roads are looking clear enough so I will go for a WOT run after calibrating the wideband and before setting up my global to see how that looks.

Keep in mind the 1G's only had one O2 sensor stock, and less overall ECU inputs, so it will take a little more work than you probably think.

That was why I hadn't put it in in the first place, I never really found a concrete answer as to where to wire it in.

Why not just wire it to an old A/F gauge. A narrowband O2 is a pretty redundant sensor to waste much time trying to figure out how to log it.

Alright so I went out and as you can see my global looks good based on the little WOT run I did.
I am not sure what to do about my deadtime cause it's getting to the point that it will be down to zero to get my fuel trims to line up, should I start fresh with the calculated global and then use the deadtime that was suggested in that link and go from there?
Thanks for all your help guys, I really appreciate it!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kvxt8q5xm1ug6kf/log.2014.01.29-02.elg

The deadtime settings are weird indeed! You definitely have too much deadtime, because if you do the SD VE adjust, you can see that its pulling a lot of fuel at idle to compensate. Perhaps play in the direct access part and lower it based on voltage. If anything, lower the deadtime at higher voltages, because your LTFT Hi is pretty good while you have lower voltages, but your LTFT Lo is terrible.

Here, this maybe.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pqfgie3oew8j9ow/Bryanlogadjusted.eda


Also your ISC position is 0 at idle. Mine doesn't like the winter though and will jump around, most likely due to a bad FIAV though.

Also, assuming you are still on a 16g, antilag is not going to keep that little guy's bearings happy for long.

No you are doing it wrong. Ltft lo is sitting at -12.5 %. Ltft lo corresponds to global fuel at idle. So you should set the global fuel for 1000 cc injectors and work with global dead time to get ltft lo and stft as close to 0 as possible at idle. If you need assistance I am all good with link . Have my 95 auto dd tsi with 2150 cc injectors and boosting 42 psi also running sd .I'm from Mississauga .

Have you seen his deadtime settings and how low they are?

Then take a look at his LTFT Hi. The latter has only a -2.5%, but his Lo, or idle, is -12.5%. His battery voltage at idle is 14.* but his battery voltage at WOT is 12.*. So his deadtime settings at lower voltages is good, but at idle when he has more voltage, his ecu is pulling tons of fuel.

Bryan, you could try pulling a tiny bit of global fuel as both are in the negative and see how that affects things.

Bryan your fuel trims are fracked. Stop worrying about WOT tuning get your idle trims porper, Because zll I see is a faulty injector or bad Wideband right now. Put the bitch in your driveway and let it idle. Start at the beginning not the middle. Get everything lined up at idle first. If you want a proper starting point. If you just want high hp at high rpm thats a different type of tuning.

The proper order of tuning is 1 idle trims close to zero 2 cruise ecu is helping 3 wot you work with SD table . What he has done is he changed global fuel to match the lower portion of sd table.

Ok thanks guys, I think I am going to reset SD to stock, and reset global and deadtime to what was mentioned in that thread and go from there.
Guys those were the steps that I took in the summer that's why I don't understand why I have to start from scratch, also need to take care of the boost leak on the throttle body too which I don't think is helping.
What are your guys thoughts on the deadtime adjustment for the injectors based on voltage? I am wondering if that should have been left alone.

Stephen, I am pretty sure the wideband is good. Is there a way that I can test the injectors at home?

Jroslaw if I am still struggling after a while I may just take you up on that offer.

Stephan, maybe I should be looking at getting another turbo

FWIW I think Stephan's suggestion to adjust the deadtime per volt is very good. Also I wouldn't trust that link you posted for deadtimes. They show the FIC850's having less deadtime than stock DSM 450's!

It may be a long shot, but you can also try to email RC engineering with the exact injector part# you have and ask them if they have deadtime specs at various voltages for those injectors when they are used with a resistor box (not using a peak and hold driver). You may still need to tweak the deadtimes up or down, but hopefully the slope of that line will be much closer to actual.

also, theres no way to test the injectors at home, so if you can take Stephen up on the injector service for $40, its a steal. you r car will obviously be down a few days though.

There's always a holset waiting.

I like to fine tune using the battery voltage because no aftermarket injector will have the same dead time vs voltage curve.

Thanks Nick, I will send them an email, that would probably make my life a lot easier if I can make that happen.

Haha Stephan, I am not looking to spend that kind of money yet, I would be looking for something with similar characteristics as the 16g.

Also I seem to have forgotten what the stock deadtime is for 450s, does anyone have that?

Haha. Call me crazy, but I love turbo's that take for ever to spool but hit hard.

Hopefully they have an answer. Didn't realize before, but if its a sudden change to weird fuel trims, Stephen's probably right that something is wrong.

Is your fuel pressure normal?

Well I set the fuel pressure to 43, other than that fuel pressure seems to be working fine.

Nick and Stephan have given some sound advise.I never thought of voltage.

The only at home testing you can do it to resistance test them with the limited tools you have access to( not being a dick) but i doubt you have an injector tester or flow bench at home.

Haha, I know. Thanks Stephen!

So I was just about to send the email when I found some info.

RC Engineering 1000cc
Low Impedance

.68ms @ 13.8v @ 38psi
1.06ms @ 8.66v @ 38psi
Battery voltage correction: .07ms/v
.83ms @ 13.8v @ 38psi w/DSM injector resistor (6 ohms)
1.48ms @ 8.66v @ 38psi w/DSM injector resistor (6 ohms)
Battery voltage correction: .13ms/v
Flow rate: 981cc @ 38psi
Tests on the RC 1000cc injector were performed at 38psi and with a DSM injector ballast resistor to accurately represent the injector operating environment when swapped into the DSM platform.

http://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=10407

Just an update, I spent some time working on it yesterday and spoke with jroslaw.
The car will be staying as it is, I have reduced the deadtime more so that my idle is getting the correct STFT, until I replace the throttle body.
After trying to set it up closer to what I had been reading the car would not warm start or idle very well.
As soon as the throttle body is replaced we will be taking a stab at seeing how everything works.

This is what they sent me. I have sent them an email to ask if they have the other voltages.

cc/min Ohm 10v 11v 12v 13v 14v 15v
1000 3 1.17 0.95 0.8 0.67 0.56 0.46

Don't bother the only useful data you can get from Tom or Dave at ecm link . I got mine id 2000 with individual dead times and the car didn't want to start. So any real data can be only provided from link owners as they are testing them with a link.

Ok good to know