The 1G. As it started, I picked up a 1993 TSI AWD for $1000 to use as a daily driver and promised my parents that I will leave it stock. Told them I know my way around the car, so I can save money by doing all the work myself.

After being used to an HX35, this one was very slow and had terrible vibrations at highway speeds. Given, it was a break from having to use a 6 puck clutch in heavy traffic. It was streetable, but took much getting used to.














And that is how it looked when I limped it home.
http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd493/renovatedkitchen/IMG_2133.jpg

The headgasket was recently replaced (can tell because the gasket still looks fresh) after the timing belt snapped and the valves bit the dust.

Luckily, however, it was undercoated frequently and the underside is very clean.



Mods when I got it:
-Hacked up air can
-Chipped ECU for some basic stuff
-264/264 delta regrind cams

So, two days later, from the same seller (Rob Martin) I bought an absolute MINT evo III 16g, 2g manifold and an aftermarket Frankenstein looking exhaust which was installed about 4 days after me owning this car.


This was to replace the stock exhaust which was found to be a "little" leaky.


Newer exhaust!

[img]http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd493/renovatedkitchen/IMG_2138.jpg[/img]

Next day, I woke up early, replaced the front brake pads and went for my very first cruise.
[img]http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd493/renovatedkitchen/image_5.jpg[/img]

Just as I got to the meet point, I found out that my rad was completely out of coolant due to what was a torn rad cap.

Terry S. was very kind to drive home, pick up some water and coolant to let me fill the rad and continue the cruise. Thank you very much!!

By this point, my mods came up to:
-Hacked up air can
-Chipped ECU for some basic stuff
-264/264 delta regrind cams
-2.25" to 3" to 2.5" to 3" to 2.5" exhaust
-evo 3 16g (12psi)
-Ebay O2 dump

-A couple days later, I found that the FPR solenoid was disconnected, so fuel pressure was not increasing with boost. Eek! Fixed that by swapping in my Fuel lab AFPR along with the 2g fuel rail (wouldn't fit without it).

-Next, I picked up ecmlink. Always one of my FAVOURITE mods. Don't know why so many people neglect the ECU as its so simple, yet does LOADS!
This allowed me to stop the car from pulling timing due to phantom knock (low throttle, under 3k rpm).

-Replaced the alternator with a new one made for an automatic DSM (higher amperage). This along with the Optima red top fixed my surging idle and terrible volgate regulation. Wouldn't have known about the idle problem if it wasn't for good 'ol dsmlink.

-Installed my old 2G MAF

-Fitted in the used wideband as well as an oil pressure gauge from the 2G as well as a GM MAP sensor and started turning up the boost.

-I couldn't understand MAF tuning, yet love using SD to tune. I find it way easier to understand. Go figure.

-Turns out, the 450cc injectors really are too small, so those were swapped out for the FIC 1450's from the 2G. One week later, I got a set of brand new FIC 950cc injectors for a steal of a deal and put those in quickly. Idle wasn't bad with the 1450's, but was better with the 950's. Plus, they are much easier to tune with.

-Next up went in the older AEM meth injection kit from the 2G. Wired it all up and installed a VRSF FMIC intercooler in the middle of a heavy snow storm. Definitely worth it.

-Only a couple days later, I went about replacing the fuel pump. For the record, I absolutely HATE doing fuel pumps on DSM's. Never ends well, and this time was no exception. However, I managed to patch it all up and upgraded the line to a -6an due to the bulk head fitting needed on the sending unit.

-Turned the boost up, now sitting at 16-18 psi.

-At this point, the clutch is starting to slip enough to be annoying.

-Took off some of the interior paneling from the trunk, where it is not noticeable to anyone to get the car a little lighter.

-Replaced the exhaust with a megan racing 3" one as well as a 3" downpipe. 1G AWD exhausts are impossible to find these days!

-The evo III 16g is getting boring, but I read that the turbo doesnt really wake up until 20 psi, so I went outside to turn up the boost. Turns out the boost controller is broken.

-Picked up Lucian M.'s old chassis from Brendon C. Big thanks to Bryan L. for the tow!

-Found an old boost controller in the trunk of the car, so I wired it up and it works! No kidding that the turbo doesn't wake up till 20psi!!! Turned up fully it was hitting 28psi and boy, it pulled like a race horse!

-Figured that the headbolts weren't too happy at this point, so I ought a large can of ARP ultra tourque assembly lube the day before and today did the one-by-one method out in the snowing weather. I went ahead and used the L19's I removed from the 2G block, naturally.
-Also replaced an old coupler that was holding the intake pipe on and read that the kool kids were shimming their wastegates. Found some old washers and shimmed it.

-Took it out for a run and all that happened was the clutch slipped, and the boost gauge was pegged beyond what it can read (its a -30 to +30 psi gauge). Turned the boost down a little, and it held 25psi to 7000rpm! Not bad at all for a stock gate!

-After all this, I must say, I miss the old slow responding, quiet and slow stock 1G DSM.

-Next up, the 6 puck unsprung clutch, 2900 pressure plate and Fidanza flywheel from the (you guessed it) 2G are going in as well as the carrier bearings being replaced when the chassis's swapped.

Mods to this date:
-Speed density using a GM 3 bar MAP sensor and GM AIT sensor
-ECM link V3 lite
-264/264 delta regrind cams
-Full 3" exhaust
-evo 3 16g (28psi)
-Ebay O2 dump
-VRSF FMIC
-eBay HKS SSQV (noise maker removed)
-Walbro 255LPH (rewired)
-6an fuel feed line
-AEM windshield washer injection (using Pacer fluid- 49% methanol according to its MSDS)
-Wideband, boost and oil pressure gauges
-Solid shifter bushings (shifter base and tranny bushings)
-Fuel lab AFPR
-FIC 950cc injectors
-K&N large filter with (forget who made it) intake pipe
-ARP L19 headstuds
-NGK spark plug wires

Looks like a clean 1G Stephan.

Nothing ever stays stock, my 2G was supposed to stay stock and look at it now.

Every single one of us has said those words at one point.

The 2G is going for a different colour scheme, so this one gets a nicer valve cover.



Also couldn't resist FP's sale on their cast manifolds. But what can I say, a fool and his money are soon parted.

So what's the plan with your new red shell?

With the red one, I plan on swapping things over once the weather warms up a little (garage space is limited here) and upgrading the manifold and clutch while the engine is out, as well as a couple other small things, mainly ones that will make the swap a little easier.

So I found out that the FAIV is leaking, after destroying two ISC's (one that came with the car and my newer black ISC). Such a costly repair.

Replaced it for now with an ISC that kinda works and blocked the FAIV off.

How did you figure out that it's leaking? I have a spare FAIV housing you can have, just need to get the bitch screw back in.

Until I get frustrated with not having the FAIV in the colder months, I'll just leave it deleted.

I had a hunch that it was leaking, and was sure of it when I opened the ISC to pour coolant out of it.

It can't be that bad in the cold with a WORKING ISC.

With just the FIAV blocked off, you may have a bit of idle "searching" when you first fire it up in the cold. A bit of throttle-tapping to help it stabilize will help, but once it's stable, the FIAV's job is basically done.

Easy to get used to, and FAR less frustrating than a malfunctioning ISC.

A working ISC actually changed my tune quite a bit too.

Going from a while of using a dead ISC to a working ISC makes a world of a difference.

The ISC is used for smoothing out changes in throttle. I notice a huge difference in tip-in behavior, as well as surging in low speed scenarios (parking lots) with a faulty ISC.

Useful little things, them.

Curious to see how my car is after I swap TBs, I think my ISC that's in the car is a little off but we shall see.

So, mostly as a spur of the moment, I decided to start the swap today.







I soon realized that it's important to make sure the meth system is working properly. There was a massive amount of meth sitting at the bottom of the intercooler.



Pretty much everything is out of the car, just need to pull the passenger side axle, speed sensor, knock sensor and alternator power cables then I can pull the engine.

While its out, I'm going to do a ghetto BSE by leaving the front shaft in, and swapping over the front case from my 2G that already has a stubby shaft as I am replacing the front case for the new build.

Durring the swap I will be replacing:
-Timing belt tensioner (from the 2G)
-Timing belt (from the 2G)
-Front case (from the 2G)
-Stainless braided brake lines
-Clutch, pressureplate and flywheel [6 puck unsprung, 2900lb ACT, Fidanza wheel] (from the 2G)
-Drive shaft carrier bearings
-Assorted gaskets and seals
-Drivetrain fluids (shockproof lightweight)
-FP exhaust manifold

Wow Stephan I am impressed!! Big progress on this crazy weather.

Psh. Today was warm for me. I did get quite a bit done considering I like to take my time and worked on it for only 6ish hours.

Should be nice in the next few days so you can probably get a lot done!

What's going on with the green shell after?

Unless someone buys it from me, its going to the scrap yard along with the black 2G.


Long shot, but is there anyone in the Kipling/Bloor area willing to lend me some timing belt replacement tools? I can drop them off once the car is done.

If you're scrapping it drop me a line. I would like to pick a few things I initially wanted off the red one

Ok, will do.

I'm going to keep the axles and probably rear diff for when I start breaking stuff, but other than that, there's lots of interior, pigtails, steering rack, gas tank and more!

Fixed.

Okay sounds good!

I think I got some timing belt tools kicking about if you need

Got the dash out today, going to do all the wiring first though to make it for an easier install. Also debating if I should keep the alarm system (all I really want is the remote unlock) but the electrical stuff looks like it will get very confusing quickly.

Didn't get as much done today as I hoped. Long story. It wasn't fun though. The driveway is an ice rink, so while tracing electrical wires, my feet just kept slipping and would end up cutting myself on some metal. Suuuuper frustrating.

Wow man! Just wow!

Great stuff!

I gotta come over to check it out sometime! since I'm a stone's throw away, maybe I could learn something. lol

If you have a spare CAS I'd like to grab it from you to see if I can fire up the bitch sitting in the garage.

For a 2G or a 1G?

I do have a spare working 2G CAS. Come over anytime, have a beer and whatnot.

You still have my number?

Sounds good!

No PM me your number, I've got a new phone.

Wonder why google didn't backup my junk. Hrmm.

The bitch in the garage is a 2G.

Oh yeah, got a spare waterpump that I was told wouldn't fit my car so I'm assuming it's for a 1G.
It's yours. It's been sitting for a while now, brand new.

I have so many parts, OMG spring cleaning is going to be fun.

I want to lick your 1G

LOL. It's not that clean, but I do try.

Sounds good! Is it a new pump?

The garages here need cleaning bad. DSM parts are like rabbits here. haha

Engine is out.




Also did a lot of small things.


Just about DSM'd out for now.


I'd say I'm cursed if I didn't know better. Lower back kills from skating around while trying to do things. Why does everything that could possibly go wrong, go wrong at the worst time?

At the end of the day though, its out and everything is okay.

Found that there is a little oil at the bottom of the rear main seal. Is this normal? These seals are becoming very expensive.

Unfortunately today was one of those days where my movements were stuck in the fast lane, but brain was in the slow lane.

Botched the timing job right off the bat, couldn't get over it, so I decided to pull the head off.

At least now I know what the combustion chamber is like in this one.

Here, after cleaning cyl's 1&2 a bit.


Boy's and girl's, this here is why you want to change your timing belt BEFORE it snaps.


Gone right through the top coating.

I don't know HOW the last guy thought to himself that these piston's are still okay to use.

So what's the plan with the engine? Good thing you caught that! At least now you know what it looks like

It looks much worse in person. With the engine? Got to figure out a way to break the crank bolt loose, then pull the front case, do a BSE and reassemble, HOPEFULLY being able to use my 2G front case along with a 2G timing tensioner.

As tempting as it is to put in the Kiggly springs or change the valve seals, I'll probably swap the engine out before they start smoking.

The cross hatching in cyl one is nearly gone, but gets better the further you get from the timing belt.

Finally decided it's a good time to clean up my absolute mess of wiring behind the gauges. Also thought of a great way to do a quick disconnect in case a gauge needs to be replaced.

Hey those look like my pistons do.

That bad?

How long have they lasted you at what power levels?

Haha Stephan are those Molex connectors, very creative!

Yeah agreed, good thing you caught that! I shockingly bent my valves but the pistons had so much carbon on them that they seem to be fine.

Well belt jumped in 1998ish. Power wise not really high I only ran 15 to 18 psi on a14b and small 16g. With just a cheap front mount and no real tuning device other then a pocket logger.

It's hard to be certain without seeing the pistons in person, but I don't see why you wouldn't be able to continue using them. Just make sure to smooth everything out on the tops.

I'm used to seeing a different metal on the tops of the pistons, but it looks like the valves chipped some spots, leaving some spots looking bare and shiny.

Hopefully work stops messing around with me and I can pick up a built bottom end around summer time assuming this holds up until then at ~25psi.

Before I cleaned the piston tops, the were super caked on with carbon that looked like mold.

I'll take some sand paper to them today.

Bryan- My gauges used to always be a mess, so I finally decided to clean them up. Molex connectors seem perfect for a quick disconnect. And the Wideband gets its own ground too.

Low on power but clean as fack!