I will try Jeremy but this will be my third attempt, the bolt that is leaking seems to leak up through the the hole in the jpipe for that bolt.

Thanks Stephan, I think I may be going to get my injectors tested. Stephen was kind enough to offer up his help and these injectors have been a bitch since day 1.

If you are on speed density, any pre throttle body leaks really shouldn't be affecting your idle. WOT performance, yes, but not idle.

Ok, sounds good. Testing and cleaning them is always good. Post up another log once that's all done with if you want.

Sorry, I thought you were still on a MAF for some reason.

But you'll probably want to fix it at some point anyway..are you sure the flanges are flat?

Mine weren't. I had to flat sand every flange on my VRSF kit.

That's probably the answer right there, I will see if I can borrow a belt sander to get this stupid thing flat.

Will do Stephan, thanks!

Huge thanks to Andre for coming by today and dropping off 4 working 450s.
I was informed at 430 tonight that I would be driving so if it wasn't for him I would have been in trouble.
Hopefully this will make the tuning easier and I can finally get her going.

Let us how she behaves with 450s

Hey Bryan, can you give us more info on that?

Haha, well it won't be happening until I have the space, so another 2 years or so, but it's really up in the air.
I have no idea if I want to go with something older like a 240 or even older like a datsun or a camaro, or brand new like the frs.
We will see where my interests lie when I get there.

The car so far is doing alright, the 450s has been great so far, I need to work on my SDAirflowPerRev but haven't taken the time cause of this sh!t weather.

Wasn't VRSF supposed to fix this? I thought it was one reason to buy the kit from them.

My old SSAC kit was horrible, I had my machinist buddy fly cut the flanges flat.

Thankfully my VRSF has no flanges anymore.

Does a BLT show anything?

Yeah it shows a ton of air pissing out of the hole where one of the bolts is, it definitely makes sense though I smothered the bolt in rtv and it still leaks like crazy.

Finely motivated myself to work on replacing my rear brakes but didn't get started till late so only got the one side done. Also got to spend some time with my cousin and teach him some stuff, also learn that my uncle is a princess and won't let him touch the car. It was pretty easy to get stuff off, probably the hardest part was removing the clips and then the grinding I had to do to modify the bottom clip mount.



Also trying to figure out what I should do with the old rear brakes, I will pay them forward to anyone that needs them as cores if they like, just let me know.

Before:

After:

Now if I can get these ebrake cables out everything will be great.

Get some brakeclean or thinners and clean that gooo off the rotors. It will cause hot spots on the pads and rotors the first time you hit the brakes.

I was using brake cleaner and trying to get that sh!t off and it got thinner but never really came off.

Use brake cleaner and a non-metal brush (ie like a coarse cleaning brush, 3M/scouring pad, etc.). Also, use chlorinated brake cleaner...the non-chlorinated stuff is useless.

Regular Ctc brake cleaner and a clean rag is all it should take. Done it a million times.

Ok will try again soon, thanks guys!

Your rotors/calipers looks familiar. Did i pick those up from Jeremmy G last year? Overall looks good to me. Replacing those rubber brake lines without damaging fittings can be a pita.

vice grips was my tool of choice, pretty sure the fitting were 9mm which I don't own.
Haha yep those are the ones!

The fittings are 10mm. Maybe they rotted down 9mm. Vise grips are very useful though.

Maybe I will run some new line soon and replace those fittings, they were pretty rough looking.

If you have to use vise grips instead of a line wrench.. Id replace the lines


My vice grips sit at the bottom of my tool box. And rarely come out... TheY are EEEEEVVVIIIIIIILLLLLLL!

Yeah that will happen, just not a huge priority for me right now.

I can't wait to install my new calipers and new rotors and new stainless lines to my new hard lines and new fittings. Should be a dream

Looks good Bryan. Gonna upgrade the fronts too?

Yeah have a pair of two pots and stainless lines for those too!

What calipers you running?

You'll see

So I grabbed some nicer wiper arms, my are pretty rusty and have been bent.
These ones came off the donor and are in much better condition, only complaint is they were painted with a brush, so I am blasting and then painting them black. Here is one done and one not.


I gave the same treatment to the bar that hold the bottom of the seatbelt to the car as it was totally rusted, but I don't have any pictures, will take a picture of how it is now in a bit.

I have done that seatbar 3 times. Probably should of got it powder coated. Seem that the belt just rubs the paint off. And although mine doesnt see winter she still rusts. Maybe I will try some POR 15 on it.

I blasted it and then painted with rust converter then with bed liner. Bed liner holds up against the wire wheel so I can't imagine the seatbelt will be much of an issue.

So after spending the last few weeks being very frustrated with my a pillar cover after most of the clips broke I decided to relocate my gauges to the center console, now my a pillar cover sits nice and flush and I can still see my gauges well enough.
Thanks to Gui for coming and helping and hanging out while I did everything, and thanks for the free TB
Flash makes it look really filthy in there.

If above statement is true than you need to clean your interior & cabin

Looks okay but few things to note:
- wires are visible through vents. Can you tuck it down and hide them in dark cable wrap?
- A/F left & Boost right gauges-> gaps are too noticeable. Can you re-align so they appear flushed?

Other than great progress so far keep it coming

Looks good ----^

Yeah I agree the wires are a bitch but I think I can figure something out.
Haha yeah she needs a clean, been doing a lot of cutting and stuff so plenty of dust in the garage lately.
What do you mean by gaps? you mean how much the stick out?

best is to show it on the pic. You can see the inner area is exposed through gaps.
Can you adjust them further out?


I would also turn boost gauge counter clock-wise a bit so the text lines up between gauges.
Again, its just me. I can't justify unless its perfect like factory

I can't fix those gaps, but I think I will take a sharpie and colour that foam black, because it's that baige colour, agreed going to line them up too.

Alex, the vent thingy comes like that, with the gauges not completely to the side and a small vent on either side of the gauges.

Just did a quick google search and found this.




^ Don't do it! This will make irreversible appearance damage
Clearly your vent bezel is incomplete, possibly broken, or defective.
You would need to find a proper replacement

Where did you guys got it from?

Not broken or defective, just a different style, it may be irreversible but it will look a lot better.
LOL do you really think I am going to buy a replacement, you know me better than that.
It was a nice present from Gui, here it is.