Was hoping to get one on the fly to throw in today. Looking for urethane insert for the front roll stop

The only on the fly options for 2gs is the inserts.
Take a look in Terry's build thread if you want actual full inserts.

Ya the ones Terry is running is what I have in mind spoke to him aswell

Made this post after his suggestion

Terry had the sleeve machined so I don't think you will find anything today.

Ya i remember those but terry was telling me to get the 1g press in urethane ones

Right but you still need the machined sleeve cause the 1g one won't work. This guy was custom made by Terry


Here is another option.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/ho...and-rear-roll-stops-motor-mounts.406631/

just a little bit of clarity on this, the front 1g will fit without modification but you might need a sleeve to compensate for the larger hole in the bushing.

the rear definitely needs an offset sleeve so I don't recommend it if you don't have the funds to have one fabricated.

someone who has their front roll stop welded should chime in, it might be a quicker solution.

Found one via Johnston Research and Performance $26+HST for the solid urethane insert for the 2g incase anyone in the future is interested

It is an energy suspension made insert. Will be calling tmmw to confirm its not just the 2 piece inserts and are infact a solid polyurethane press in

The insert is a waste of time.

Unless you can use large washers to keep the insert from torqueing itself out of position.

Solid mounts are the way to go imo.

Manny pretty sure energy only makes the two piece insert that you don't want.

Bloody!!

Welding it solid is looking more and more viable but Bryan i get your point that the hole isnt centered and with my existing being shot i wont find the right spot

Ideas?

You can come here and we can weld it, with the rest of the mounts being stock your ride should still be pretty good.

How about if the other oem ones may not all be 100%?

I do plan to replace them all but right now i am slowly addressing issues in order of importance...my current roll stop is shot

My thoughts there is that if you go with a pure solid in the front and stock for the rest that you will accelerate the other three's deterioration.

If you do the front I'd do the back. The sides are up to you but the front and rear are what see the brunt of the twist. The sides shouldn't really deteriorate noticeably (if at all) faster if the front and rear are solid/'welded'.

Manny: I know I've said this to you before. These cars don't like being modified on a budget.

Fix what's broken: This is what you want.

Get your car back on the road with a good roll stop. Keep your old chewed up roll stop to turn into a solid mount in the future.

Any time you modify something, you put stress on other components of your car. Focus on the important stuff; factory engine mounts are good for twice the power you're making.

If you happen to find a rear Avid mount... the insert can be popped out and used in the stock 2g front roll stop. Youll need to gut out the stock rubber. Its a perfect fit. The hole is a tiny bit higher... but I dont think it would matter.

BTW I may have a solid metal welded front roll stop forsale.



Avid insert ..inserted into oem 2g front roll stop.


And I dissagree.. Go with stiffer engine mounts.

Jeremy is right, you still run the t25 and for the price of an oem replacement I would just swap it in and enjoy it. once you start making good power and launching your car with good sticky tires, wheel hop will become an actual issue.

+1 to Jeremy, my wheel was shaking like crazy when I first got my car, not because it had solid mounts but because mine were all trashed(plus the cutting board mod), now that the right and left one are prothane the wheel actually shakes less than when I got the car.

Great feedback guys i am definitely going to grab an oem one

Jeremy i totally agree with your point and never looked at it that way

Was looking to go oem first but then i started hearing it wouldnt be a bad idea to go solid now for the roll stop

Solid FTW. If you do go OEM, make sure its an actual OEM not an OEM replacement. Deep was telling me that they usually see the OEM replacement ones wear out really quick.

The OE-style one I put on my car was still in perfectly good shape when I removed it 3 years later. Manny is not looking for a permanent solution.

Manny: Up to you if you wanna fork out 3x the price for an actual OEM. But since I expect you'll be going with a solid mount as soon as you have time/money, the OE-style should be plenty to keep you on the road for a while (the one I linked).

I agree with Jeremy.

The OE-style ones will be more than adequate for Manny's vehicle until he decides to switch to solid. It's not like we're talking a 600awhp car here that will shred anything soft.

Yeah. The cars in Deep's shop arent high HP, just basic cars and they see some of the OE style mounts break apart quickly. It could be the company of the mount though. (ie. Gates vs Topline)

I had it happen on two separate stock eclipses. Part was under warranty so free replacement.

Cant remember but it was really cheap.

Well my $20 roll stop managed to significantly outlast the $200 set I got from Avid, and the cheapie saw more abuse.

ANY brand can fail right out of the box, OEM included. For a mount that takes 10 minutes to change, I think you're safe risking the affordable one.

Yea guys i was going to go the $20 one because like jeremy said i will go to solid as soon as i got the money (get out of my head jeremy)

You figure almost 4 oe style for the price of one oem

Now if the great td bank wouldnt take 5 days to clear a cheque i would have em here tmmw

Call TD and you can negotiate the delay, if you have good credit than they will reduce it.

Already tried with a small business associate (hoped the incentive of me opening a business account would expedite it) but no luck it's because my history with td is almost non existent lol

I would have sent you my solid mount for less then the price your paying for the oem style. but what ever... Ill save it for someone making lots of hp.

Ya jay after hearing Jeremy's feedback I'd want to hold off on solids just yet... Would do it when I replace all mounts... The others are by no means shot which is why the roll stop is the only being changed

I should probably clarify: I don't expect the solid roll stop would cause all your other mounts to wear out. However, if you don't know what kind of shape the other mounts are in, you could be opening up a can of worms.

When you get the chance to remove/inspect all your other mounts, if they're in good shape, you'll be fine to go ahead with a solid front without having to replace the other three. I just figure since we're still not out of winter, $30 and 10 minutes with a wrench is the simplest, easiest fix.