car bogged at wot and threw a code today p0301 misfire in cylinder 1

buddy had some mitsu plugs BPR6EKN and we threw them in (i have a set of blue ngk wires not sure on specs or serial number

when we threw em in the car started to idle like a wrx sti and when i was driving the vibration was brutal and i was scared to give any gas

Cleaned up the old plugs on the wire wheel and put em in after clearing the code on the scan tool and the idle was back to normal normal driving and no more bog at wot

the current plugs in my car are the ngk iridium ones and looked significantly smaller than the BPR6EKN and not the BPR6ES

What could be causing that rough performance with the the BPR6EKN (dsmtuner has a thread on plugs and it states those are used in dsms as well not the best but used)

also the 2 plugs on the passenger side had visible signs of oil coating them

Sorry, I've been drinking a bit, so I skipped....most of that.

Get those iridium plugs out of your car. BR6ES (preferred) or BPR6ES (easier to find) are the ONLY plugs you should be running until you're ready to change heat ranges.

Don't try to diagnose any other running-related issues until the plugs in your car are one of the two mentioned above.

Gotcha!...Have a cold one for me aswell!

+1 for copper plugs.

Was the oil you found on top of the plug? If so, it's likely the valve cover gaskets. I use a small bead of RTV on these.

Tops were clean Mike threads had oil

the FSM says you should do that too, unfortunately I didn't read that part till after.

When I swapped the turbo a few weeks ago I rtved the entire valve cover including the spark plug gaskets

If he was running platinum plugs, I'd say sure, ditch them for copper but I'm not so sure about iridium. There was actually a post on the link forums & a number of the "big boys" were running iridium because they actually cleared up miss fire issues for them vs running copper. The other benefit is they typically last a lot longer. I actually picked up a set to try after reading the positive results but ended up switching heat ranges before I got to give them a try.

If their fouled with oil, doesn't matter what type they are, swap them for a new set.

I tried iridium plugs once and my car ran like a bag of sh!t.. but this was years ago so who knows what other problems it was dealing with then.

Perhaps the iridium plugs benefit more from running a cdi box, as pretty much all high HP guys are.

Most iridium plugs come pre-gapped and that gap is usually quite large compared to what us copper guys are used to. I could see on a standard coil them having issues with spark blowout under boost, add more current and I'm sure that would make the difference.

That would make sense to me, as it idled fine with iridiums. As soon as I put any actual load on, it would start misfiring.

I tend to avoid copying the "big boys" piecewise. If the rest of my ignition was remotely similar to theirs, I might try the plugs they use.

Properly gapped coppers with factory coils and NGK wires have never let me down.

Precisely, it's a good 500hp capable setup.

I'm flowing 50+ lbs/min on BR8ES & $45 NGK 1g replacement wires with no misfire.

I always shake my head at people going with a COP setup while running a 16g and no cdi box.

I did that once. Talk about break up. More of a rice mod imo.

Happy Birthday, Mr. Eng



I hear ya. Especially since they should be adding the CDI box long before going COP...

..and long after they outgrow their 16G

Lol thanks Jeremy.

I do however miss the quick spooling 16g.

Oh I have nothing against small turbos; I certainly didn't mean that 16G owners have something to outgrow. But if you're on a 16G, spend your money elsewhere; ignition's covered

Capable of a lot more than that! A friend sent me a log of his 6466 @ 50psi with a stock ignition. He has dynoed just over 700awhp at around 40psi. I myself have pegged my 45psi gauge numerous times with an HTA86 and never had a problem with the stock ignition. Our OEM ignition systems rock!

got a hold of the br6es zero bogs clean throttle response and steady

yesterday i believe i experienced fuel cut though...tried WOT i believe in 3rd at or near redline and all of a sudden nothing from pressing the accelerator...let of and tried wot again and still nothing shifted and back to normal

Fuel cut feels like hitting a wall, and I think happens at 15psi on stock setup

this wasnt like hitting a wall then not terrifying at all just as if im in neutral but rpm is remaining high

Mind if I ask a question?

If you have problems with your control arms and oil leaks and misfiring, etc., etc., have you thought about maybe NOT doing WOT pulls to redline in third for a little while?

maybe some immaturity along with being the first dsm ive driven or owned... just put the plugs in and wanted to see how she ran

and as of now the only issue I have is the valve stem seal

Fair enough; I hate to sound like a "parent". I've just been there myself, and beating on a car with known issues is a great way to create more known issues

hahah well I am one of the more newer dsm bastard offspring from dsm.ca

Based on what your saying, I hate to say it cause I know you did this recently but it sounds like clutch slippage.

That was my first thought.

but rpms wouldn't move when I accelerated didn't feel anything let off and accelerated again

shifted and it was back to normal

if it was the clutch slipped my rpms would still increase when accelerator pressed no?

Yeah that's weird.

this is why I am saying it's not fuel cut though, cause fuel cut doesn't stay there when you let off the gas, you should be back to normal as soon as you let off the gas.

I still think it's something in that tranny, your ecu has no idea if you shift or not. It just knows load so it wouldn't know you shifted and say "ok let's turn off fuel cut"

That's exactly the timing getting pulled. Knock or phantom knock.
Is this the DSM board?

That wasn't the impression I got from your earlier post. Rob is probably right. Did you log any of these "diagnostic" WOT pulls?

Yeah I agree with Rob too but I figured it would be corrected when he let off.

no logging Jeremy this is an oem ecu in here

I would strongly suggest you get yourself something to log with. I'm fairly certain it's possible to pull log data off of the stock ECU, but I haven't a clue how, so I'll leave that for some of the veterans to chime in.

Actually it does! at least 1st, 2nd, & 3rd on a 2g. Otherwise boost by gear would not be possible via ECMLink.

^ Just saying, not related to Manny's issue.
Please move on!

Sell your text books and home computer and get ECMLink for your DSM. Don't wait!

my bad thought that was just calculated based on your rpm's and your speed.

Tactrix cable and Evoscan will get you up and logging fairly cheap.