So I bolted up the passenger engine mount. I then went to install the rear mount and the whole thing is sitting back. Tranny is touching subframe. I can't budge the whole thing.how is this possible? Grrrr.

Never mind. Engine rotates. Just jack up front mount.. I think. Testing

Things went well.

Added missing oil pan bolts
Passenger Engine Mount. Done
Rear Engine Mount. Done
Axles. Done
Passenger Side Suspension. Done.

It was slow cause I kept misplacing tools >.< Should be wrapped up tomorrow night. Then on to dealing with broken O2 housing bolt.

Anyone know why the hell a mechanic would do this to the rad? (I know they couldn't put a fan.. but.. blocking air flow?!!

Is your tstat working?
I had overcooling issues and there were a lot of people on the internets that suggested doing that, supposedly its a common option for truck drivers.

My guess is to make the single fan more effective. since the shroud covers the whole radiator, having an open hole would allow the single fan to suck air from the back of the radiator (through the open hole) instead of through the radiator itself.

Obviously the best solution is to put both fans on.

I forgot to measure my Trans Installâ„¢ tool. Will try to remember tonight. It really does make things as easy as Darren said.

I actually did this exact mod myself last month. It's not blocking airflow; as Scott mentioned, it's allowing the single rad fan to pull air across the entire rad. Contrary to popular belief, even at speed, air is reluctant to go through your rad unless your fan is running. Rad fans pull air away from the rad creating a low-pressure zone; this is what encourages the air in front of your rad to come through the fins. Done properly, that shroud would actually improve airflow.

Doing it properly would involve sealing it up around the edges though.

Thank you gentleman. Good explanation. I want AC though. Was thinking pusher fan on condenser side seeing o2 housing too close.

Not sure which fan that is but check to see if you can change the polarity of it at the pigtail. I know the mishimoto fans do and I installed them on the front of the rad for more clearance.

While a proper shroud should work as described above, I'm not sure how functional that "shroud" (ie house soffit) actually would be.

On the other hand, I have not specifically tested myself but once you get up to a certain speed, the air forced through the rad because of the airflow against the rad, should be greater then what the fan/fans can pull through. At this point, that shroud should be blocking airflow. This is why fans are really only needed at low speeds/stop & go traffic.

Air will always take the path of least resistance, so if the path to the rad is not sealed from the front of the car, to the rad, the airflow will much rather go around, vs through the rad.

This is actually a common misconception. If you have sealed ducting in front of the rad, then what you said would be true. However, at speed, it is still more difficult for air to go through the rad than around it. Without sealed ducting FORCING the air through the rad, it will still predominantly go around. However, at speed, there is sufficient airflow moving across the front and around the rad to pull heat away; airflow which is not present at low speeds/stop & go traffic, giving the results that have falsely been attributed to air moving through the rad.

I have done quite a bit of testing with this over the summer. The results have been quite staggering.

Curious as to what you have done for testing?

What's the misconception, I did specifically say that airflow will always take the path of least resistance & in order for it to benefit from the incoming airflow, the rad must be sealed?

I haven't done anything scientific, but when at highway speeds turning the fans on/off via link made no difference that's loggable with the stock ecu. So that would seem to tell me the cooling from incoming airflow is greater then what the fans are able to achieve (whether its through the rad or across the surface). I do run aftermarket fans, but they are about as big of fans (ie move the most airflow for their size & do the best as static pressure increases) as I could fit. The AC fans is ~1300cfm & the main fan ~1800cfm, which probably aren't too far off from stock.

I will add to DSM BIBLE.



It cools well I think. I have never tried to take her out in 35 degree weather in stop and go traffic mind you. I don't enjoy taking turbo cars out in 35 degree weather. >.<

The misconception is that at speed, your rad fans are no longer the key factor in pulling air through the rad. This is not true. The phenomena that you witness when clicking your fans off was explained in my last post; there IS sufficient cooling from oncoming air, but NOT because it's rushing through the rad. A proper shroud will not cause a performance loss, even at speed.

If I had time to write up everything I had done, I would. Cliff notes are that there was an obvious and significant improvement in airflow through my I/C and rad after I added the shroud. Most of this testing was done between 100km/h and 160km/h (on a track, of course!).

Well. She's not seeing the road this weekend.

That broken bolt is seized tight in the O2 Housing. I managed to remove the O2 housing not breaking any bolts to turbo.

Heated the crap out of it and used penetrating oil. Nothing. Won't budge. I could try and get a nut welded on, but I think It would just snap flush.

Not sure I wanna pay a company to remove it. which would cost a good chunk of a new one. Question is.. if I do get a new O2 housing.. which one? (Might need new wideband O2 as well as it is seized in there good also.)

Options:

Out of Stock Megan Racing Tubular O2 Housing (Recirculated): DSM

Tubular O2 Housing (Recirculated): DSM

or pay 60$ more for stock one.

I also will need to order gaskets. I measured the downpipe. The opening is 2.75". The O2 down is 2.5"

The Turbo to O2 gasket fell out in two pieces.

She's mostly back together. I jumped in drivers seat and fearing the tranny falling out.. I pressed the clutch in.

Mother of God!!! The pedal pressure is effortless. You guys sure this holds power? Lol

I had the same reaction the first time I tried my Southbend

I was asking how your tstat is because if it is failsafe than your car will actually over cool, and should take a fair bit long to get up to operating temperatures.

Don't waste your time on a Megan o2 housing, buy an Evo 3 o2 and just re-weld your downpipe flange to work with the slight different angle.

The Megan I had cracked in 3 places and the flange warped all to hell. The Evo 3 is already much larger than the 2g and can be ported out quite a bit more.

That would require me getting it to a shop to do. I'm not at that level yet.

I am going to do my best to get that stud out. But if I do get it out, this begs the question for gasket (O2 to DP).. The O2 outlet is 2.25" the Exhaust DP opening is 2.75". Which gasket do I get? 2.5 or 3? I would assume 3" but thought I would ask.

And seeing I am replacing Ex Mani to Turbo, Turbo to O2 and O2 to DP gaskets, might as well replace the Head to Ex Mani gasket? Do I really want to tackle that on top of all the problems so far? Thinking of waiting till next year. >.> It will be my only leak for now.

Now I wait until Monday to try and get the bolt removed. >.>

This is also where I get confused. I have a 6 bolt.

Which means when I shop for parts, I am shopping in 1G if it is engine or exhaust (up to DP) correct? Anything run by a belt is 2G?

Sorry. Never had to deal with a 1Gina2G

Why not just buy a used O2 housing if yours is stuck (if you can't manage to take it out)? I have one if need be. Pretty sure someone in Ottawa closer to you may have one too.

Its out!!! Grinded flat sides on bolt opposite each other. Vice grips put on using clamps to assist with locking vice grips. 2foot pipe for leverage.

Money saved!!!

Well done!

As far as having a 6 bolt in a 2G, you can still search for parts in the 2G section of RTM. They accommodate that combination in their listings.

Otherwise, you'll have to use your discretion; there are a few ways to do the swap. If you have not already read Magnus' 1G in a 2G article, I recommend it. It includes a breakdown of the parts used in different versions of the swap, among other useful information.

7" in length.

That ruler is old school.
Where's the user manual? How do I operate this thing?
Does it come with a warranty? A guarantee?







RTM order in.

OEM O2 Housing Gasket: DSM/EVO1-3
RTM-405-2.5 RTM Stainless Steel 2-Bolt Exhaust Gaskets
OEM Exhaust Manifold Gasket: DSM/EVO1-3 4 layer
OEM CAS O-Ring: DSM/EVO1-3
OEM O2-Housing to Downpipe Stud: DSM/EVO
OEM Exhaust Manifold Stud Kit: DSM 6-bolt
MIT03-MB059359 OEM Exhaust Nuts

Well. It's done. She's back together. I go to start it. No starter action. Fuel pump, lights, everything good. Just nothing for starter. Curse. Swear. Look at it. I eventually cave and remove the starter. I test the solenoid and slowly the pinion moves. I keep trying it, it slowly improves. Throw the starter back in. Success!! Car started. Idle a little erratic but it started and remained idling.

I was so excited to take her around the block, I get two corners in and hear a rubbing sound from drivers tire. Oh yeah.. tighten lugs >.<

So I run home, get the wrench and tighten them up. All good (minus stalling when coming to a stop). Clutch is so light it's hard to get a feel for the full engagement range. Also, with the front rad support all buttoned up, lots more vibration from the engine (balance shaft belt eliminated).

So I have put the bumper back on and tomorrow just replace the exhaust hangers I cut.

Thanks to everyone on here for the help. Now.. boost leak test and tune! I had to sacrifice my red vibrant coupler for my boost leak tester. Damn 3" Turbo Inlet and 3" Plumbing boot being 3.5" due pipe thicknesses.

My TPSV is 0.39 at 0% TPS >.> supposed to be 0.63? Could be related to stalling? Anyway.. a few shots.





1000 in this shot was actually -1.2. I had just changed it to more gradual change from 1000 to 1500. (untested)

Congrats! Glad to see she is back on the road

I went for a short lived victory ride. 45 mins she reminded me why I love DSMs. She was stalling at lights if I let RPM drop too quickly for awhile.. but now just come to stop in gear and push clutch in when it hits 1200rpm.

Anyway... got home.. look under car, MT90 puddle. Sorry freshly tarred driveway It sprayed underneath car. There is no MT90 above the CV boot. I looks like underneath it, it's shiny wet.

Not sure if it's due to CV not in all the way or dmged seal.
Praying not coming out of anything else.

Back off comes the passenger side suspension and axle. *@&#(*HDQ!

Aiii! Don't use the sliders, use the tables, it's much more accurate.

For the TPS, (first make sure that the TPS adjustment is disabled in link) manually spin the TPS until it reads 0.63v. You might also have to play with the stop screw if it's not set right.

For the axle seal, be very, very careful. My brother found out the hard way how fragile those axle seals are when installing them.

Fixed. Axle was 1/4 inch out. This time I heard a distinct click.

Went out again.. 10 degrees here in Ottawa..

I lasted 67 KM before mashing the throttle on a back road. Guess the MBC knob got turned. hit 28PSI. Dear mother of god it felt good. (and no CEL knock either)

I then dialed her back down to 20PSI for safety. After about 30 mins.. I found more MT90. This time, leaking down the front (but not enough to drip on the ground). There is also a trace amount on top of the tranny. It looks like it blew out the shift linkage boots. I'll have to take a closer look. But it ran great. Thanks again to all. I'm in love again.

So the sliders affect the table? I need to read up a bit more. I have not adjusted the tune that came with the car.



I can't get at the bottom bolt >.< no wrench, no screwdriver will reach into there.



Luckily.. I don't need to replace

The bottom bolt for the TPS is a ***** to get to, but if I recall right, you gotta remove the PCV, then you have access to it.

And the tables and the sliders affect the tune. The tables are just more accurate. Use them last though. Go back to a stock SD table and dial in the injectors first, under the Fuel tab.

This is a good read on SD
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-tune-a-1g-v3-sd-ecmlink-with-no-maf.395564/

I took an old 8mm wrench to my bench grinder to get on those TPS bolts.. You just need to crack them enough to be able to rotate the sensor until you reach the value of 0.63 volts like stephan mentioned.

Your throttle cable may need adjusting as well.

As mentioned, a serious pain. On my old setup, my technique was to use a Phillips bit with a 1/4" wrench (most bits are a 1/4" hex). Use a flatblade screwdriver against the end of the bit to hold it in the bolt head, turn it with the wrench. They're not all that tight. Might not work with your setup though.

My new IM sits the TB far enough out I can just put a screwdriver on it. I was so happy when I found that out

Glad to hear she's up and running!

Amazing work Charles! Awesome what you did in a short time...

Now that she's drivable I think a full car picture is due??

Hear, hear!

Clutch line damper is wet in front. It seems to be concentrated below shifter linkage. Maybe spraying out?

Suspect under here:


I cleaned it up, when for another short drive and only small amount collectingbelow ledges below the spot marked above.

Thanks guys. Photo to come. Will take one tonight.

Found it. As I suspected. (Neat little trick, get bottle of spray powder gold bond. Paint thick coat near area you suspect. Go for short drive). In my case, I went for longer one >.>



Jack M: "You can change the seal without removing or tearing the trans down. You have to remove the shift shaft arm on top which is held in place by a pin. The pin only comes out one way and is pressed in very tight. You need to use a serious air hammer and pop the pin out. Then you can slide the arm off and the seal is right there and slips right off.

Again, you need a serious air hammer to get it off, or there is no hope of removing the pin. The pin comes out on the front side, so you need to have the air hammer pointing toward the front side of the car and the pin will pop out toward the radiator. If you go the wrong way, you will force the pin in tighter and then you're really screwed."

Seems daunting.

Sorry for no photos, been busy with daughter past 2 weeks.

Passed on by Garret who found this on dsm site:

"Pull the rubber cover thing up under the linkage. From there you will be able to see the top of the seal. Using a thin flathead screwdriver or the like pry it up as high as you can. Clean it up real good and glob a bunch of red rtv on and around the seal. Push the seal back down, push the boot down and let it dry for a few hours. Problem solved. "

This is my option 1.