So last night, something bad happened on my drive home. I'm not exactly sure what happened, but I figure I would explain the symptoms here and let you guys diagnose it.

So I'm in my 1ga, and I launch her at the lights (foolish, I know). I revved up to about 4000 rpm and dropped the clutch. I don't move. Instead, engine just revs high. I thought maybe she popped out of 1st, because I have been having issues with the shifter cables (I have a '90 setup, with '93 cables, so it is not perfectly aligned). So I let off, and try to put it back into first. It's in gear, I rev up, and it seems like gears are spinning, but the car is only inching forward. I put it in 2nd, and same thing, gears spinning, engine revving, but only moving faster very slowly. It feels like something is slipping, and it takes a while for it to grip until the car builds up some forward momentum. It doesn't seem to matter what gear I am in, if I push hard, the engine will rev, it will slip, and the car will not move forward as it should.

I was, however, still able to drive it home. Only issue was that anytime I came to a complete stop, it would take a long time to build up some momentum.

Another 'glitch' that I noticed while I was driving home, was that the speedometer would give me inaccurate readings of velocity. It seems to be in sync with whatever was slipping. It would say I'm going 160 km/h, when really I know I am only going 60 km/h. I feel like whatever the speedometer depends on to measure velocity, that could be the key to figuring out what is broken.

Anywho, feel free to give me your thoughts.

thanks,

When you say:



Does this mean you put it into 2nd while your car is stopped or nearly stopped and had the clutch fully released and the engine didn't stall? Or were you moving enough already that the engine didn't stall when you put it into 2nd?

That's a good question. I do not believe I had the clutch fully released. I drove as if all was normal. I will have to test that theory to be sure.

I did start from stop in 2nd gear the whole way home though. But I never just fully released the clutch right away.

Ever experience a slipping clutch?

If that's not it, I'll tell you what else it can be.

This sounds clutch(pp, disc,etc)related to me, not sure how the '90 speedo works(cable driven iirc) though.

*edit* Reza beat me to it, I would like to know what else it could be though 😊

Just to pitch in a previous experience, when I snapped my front axle last year, that's exactly how it drove. But I'm sure you'd hear it clunking around.

I did have to replace my clutch once, though I did it at the same time I replaced my tranny. I have an ACT 2600 in there now. Running stock power. Don't know how that can take out my clutch co soldering it's rated for much higher HP. But I could be wrong.

Last time I had a similar issue with my last tranny, it was the synchros. I cannot remember the condition my stock clutch was in when I last replaced it. I do believe it was damaged as well, hence why I bought the upgrade.

Is there a simple way I can tell if it is the clutch? Any tests I can perform? What else could it be Reza?

First thing I would check is to see is if the slave is pre-loaded causing the clutch to slip. A slipping clutch will also stink.

A broken transfer case output shaft will also cause the car to behave in the exact same manner. I have done this in my car several times launching. The t-case snaps off clean in the yoke of the driveshaft. You would have to remove your driveshaft or t-case to inspect.

Also as Stephan mentioned it could also be an axle that has snapped off clean, however that would be more than likely in the rear diff.

I was also originally thinking slipping clutch but the way he described it made me question if that's what it actually is.

I'd definitely check axles/transfer case/driveshaft/etc. before pulling the tranny. Pulling the TCase is a pretty quick process.

You popped an axle out, I had absolutely identical symptoms when I popped an axle after a launch including the speedo behaviour, put her up in the air and find out which one it is, you may or may not have to replace it if there's damage to the splines.

When it happened on mine it was a front axle, I'd check those first.

Thanks everyone. That really helps. I will start by checking the axles. I hope that's it. I will update this thread when done.

thanks

So for the front axle test, that is something I can just do at home, right? Lift the car and rotate the wheels? Can someone please explain the steps?

lift the front of the car and get someone to turn the wheel while you watch where the axles enter the tranny, if one has popped out it should move in and out a bunch as the wheel turns.

It could also be much more obvious and the axle will be really loose and have fluid dripping out of the hole.

For the rear I'd just grab the axles at the diff and see if you can move one around more than the other.

thanks @chris

ok Chris, you were right! Front passenger axle cut clean!



I have some used axles at home that I am hoping I could use to replace the broken one. Can anyone provide me with a link or instructions on how to replace the axle?

thanks,

Pretty simple if they aren't seized in the hub. It's just a nut on the outside of the hub that holds the outer CV in place and the inner splines lock into the trans with a spring clip, normally you use a pry bar between the trans and the joint, give it a quick jerk and it pops out. In your case you'll be in for a little more fun. I *think* (never had to do it) you could use a small bar and remove the driver side axle and go in that way and drive out the broken stub.

You'll want to make sure you change the seal as it likely got trashed.

also never happened to me. I wonder if removing the seal will expose some area to grab on the broken part and pull it out. Good luck

Get a really strong magnet on a rod and pull it out or you know, like Jason said - pop the driver side out and then a nice long rod/screwdriver to pop the chunk out.

If you can avoid having to remove the axle opposite of the broken one, I would.

Maybe try a number of self tapping screws or drill, tap and dye, give yourself something to pry off of or simply yanking it with a pair of vice grips.

Just try to avoid getting any shavings into the tranny if you do decide to drill.

That's the passenger side stub with the c clip that locks it in the trans. A magnet ain't gonna pull it out

It would be so much easier and less risky to just pop the driver axle out.

As for the magnet comment - if he's got a strong electromagnet he'll be able to overcome that clip but I'm guessing he doesn't have one, particularly in the form factor he'd need to get it out

Twice the work is easier? Less risky yes but it's still having to remove another axel.

It takes all of 5 minutes to remove the drivers side axle, the half shaft makes it very easy, it doesn't even have a clip holding it in the trans. Also, have fun drilling or tapping that hardened axle.

Get some shavings or bits of a broken drill bit or tap in the trans and you've got a LOT bigger job on your hands.

Exactly this, and don't forget the stub will likely spin in the tranny. It's exponentially more work to do what you're proposing, Mike, than to just pop the driver side out and go.

You guys have some valid points.

And this is why I would prefer to not remove the driver side axle...




Be that as it may, given the risks, I will probably just suck it up, and reposition the car so I can get to the driver side axle and push out the passenger axle from within as you gentlemen have recommended.

Question, do I need to drain the tranny fluid? Also, you guys mentioned how to get the broken axle out, but how about installing a replacement? I am new at this.

I will update accordingly.

thanks,

Ah, yes. You will have to move it

And yeah you will need to drain it. If you don't, it will auto-drain for you the moment you pull out one of the axles.

Installing the new axle is the reverse of removal. It's pretty easy on a 1G, it's pretty straight forward and if you figure it out it actually doesn't require removing too many parts.

There is a cross shaft in the stock open front diff which will prevent you from pounding out the broken piece from the other side if you use a something big. Try a flat head screw driver which will clear the shaft from either side.

New axle: just get it into the tranny, then give it a good shove so the c-clip locks in place.

Glad to see you found the problem, that's about as bad as an axle can fail but it sounds like you have some options from what the other guys have suggested.

I just wanted to add since you haven't dealt with axle problems in the past don't use a hammer on the end of the new axle when installing it as it's very easy to mess up the threads for the axle nut permanently, ask me how I know

Ok, so I just want to make sure I have all the parts I need.

So I have spare axles in the garage:




How do I know if they are still good? How do I determine which is driver/passenger side? The part that confuses me is the boot/seal. What are the steps for that?

Those are rear axles.

Haha what corte said.

Fronts look like this:

I'm not a 1G guy, but those aren't front axles...

As stated many times above, your only option is to knock the *nub out from the driver side. There is no way you're going to overpower that c-clip with any other method. Judging by your pictures of the damage, it was a very clean cut.

Just suck it up and do the job correctly. Most of the time, while we look for short cuts we double the length of the job all because we don't want to remove a couple more bolts.

sh!t simple job, you've got this.

Pro tip: Properly drain and dispose of the used tranny fluid. Fewer things worse then tranny fluid soaking into your garage floor, nm the smell.....
Use the drain plug for a controlled flow. It'll go all over the place if you use the "auto drain" feature on these cars.

You're looking for the top one.

Off the top of my head, you're looking for a 1990-1994 AWD pass-side axle, or a 1990-1992 FWD pass-side axle. Do not get a non turbo axle, and do not get a 1993-1994 FWD axle as they're larger and will not work.

I hope my memory is correct

Not all c clips are that much of a pain. I got mine out with minimal effort using the smallest pry bar I have.

Forgot to add, I do have these axles from the 1g parts car.

I'm sort of tempted to see if my carbide drill bit would work with a helicoil.

Helicoil requires a tap, and if it takes carbide to drill it, you will never successfully tap it

I'm still confident it could be removed without disassembling the other side. If only I were faced with the problem. But then again, thankful I'm not.

I'm pretty sure it could be done too, he might have better clearance pulling the seal out. MacGyver moments!

Then again this is the same axle everyone (except me) swears is soo hard to pull out because of that c clip.

There has been more time spent talking about how to do it the wrong way, than it would take to do it the right way.

Just sayin'

That driver axle has been out recently enough that it shouldn't be a challenge, assuming Mike is just stuckaxlephobic.



This is also my understanding!

Speaking of seal. Surprised no one mentioned to replace them while there.

You could easily and cleanly build up a stud to pull it from with a tig welder but most people don't have one...*cough*

I was going to bring up welding but thought that would be redundant given the circumstances.

I wouldn't use a tig though.

A mig, a rod and grounded out on the rod, a bead at the knub and you've got yourself a whole other "axle" to yank on.

I wouldn't use mig unless he has gas plus mig doesn't stack as nicely or as quickly as tig does.

or you can pull the trans off and bring it to me for a rebuild.... I'll whack the stub out while I'm at it

carbide burr, dremel, vice grips.

Basically sums up the thread

Fun read though

Yep.

I hope you guys know that just because I don't type lol, doesn't mean that I'm not when I post sh!t.

Well that's about as inconclusive as it gets lol. I'll keep you all updated on what happens.

Thanks for all the advice.

Just pull the driver side axle out, pop the stub out from the backside, get a new axle in and be done with it

Unless you happen to have a powerful electromagnet collecting dust in your basement (and what DSMer doesn't?)

It's here!

did you extract the broken piece ?

Not yet. Been so busy, haven't got around to it.

Me and Jamie tried sticking sh!t thru an old diff he had laying around... And I think its gonna be harder then you think. We couldnt even get a thin screwdriver past the center..

Not sure if its been suggested but how about drilling a hole tapping it and putting a bolt in, then leverage off that?

Apologize if its been suggested already too lazy to go back and read lol

JB Weld didn't show up for the party?!

We're not rebuilding a cavalier Rob

Could you not just weld a bolt to it.. Or even the welding rod to the broken stub?

That's what I would do. E7018 rod at 125 amps and you've got yourself a 70, 000 lbs tensile strength tool to yank on it.

Get a hold of the fresh output from the recent welding student lol...sounds like you regurgitated a textbook there

I'm open to that if anyone wants to come over with a welder

You're better off with a dowel. 1/2" rod, and gas mig. If someone does want to try it.

Recent CWB was 1 year ago next month Manny I've since put in roughly another 450 hours on top of my 200 hours with a general contractor. 18 hour days suck. I don't recommend it.

Sounds like a great time to upgrade your shift forks while Reza pops out the axle stub!

(I imagine with continued stop light drops you might break the stock ones eventually)

Takes me back, good luck with the fix.

Thought I would close the loop on this. I ended up taking her to Reza's shop and he opened up the transmission to remove the stub. I also had him rebuild the tranny while he was at it

Nice!

Tig weld it up but be carful.. why not drill and hook it( is there anything on the inside right against the end reza?)