Ah ok, I think mine was similar with the old car, will need to take a look how this car is.

Wow that's wicked!! I was trying to get into the wordpress stuff as I figured I could do some side stuff as well. My first plan was to redo my father in laws website as it hasn't been touched in over 5 years and is looking very dated. I am just struggling to get really into it, partly because I am only hosting it locally and can't seem to get it so that my other computers can access it properly. I would have to come downstairs and seclude myself to work on it and I know my wife wouldn't agree with that so I don't make time to work on it, I may setup remote access and get to work like that but we shall see.
Also this was the theme I was using as he has a very good walkthrough.
https://tyler.com/

Bah. I just went out this afternoon, and Combined FT is farked again. -15 to -9. Was fine last night!

And for some reason, I increase deadtime to reduce the number.. the number goes down more -21 to -15. lol.

We need to start a Web Services thread.

Hm that's odd, on maf right? Do your maf readings look similar to yesterday?

I am SD. I am going to change my sig to something useful!

My new art pieces have come in. Brake Fluid Reservoir and Clutch Fluid Reservoir brackets. AWESOME.






On another side note... garage door scraped my pristine rear bumper. Long story. Hate myself.

Those are fancy!! Where are they from?

This does look very good

Some variations in CombinedFT is normal. I would only compare those after driving DSM for at least 20 -30 mins on the fully hot engine including at least on WOT. Also, i use my factory boost gauge for LTFT so i can always see how well things line up, very useful for me.

GSX Dude from Germany.

DSM Tuner Thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/ch...reservoir-bracket.503122/#post-153589558



"Talk to me Jesse. This ain't workin brother"
"It's your fuel man. It's got a nasty hole"

Since AFPR, I went from having an SD table up in the 75 to 99 range to now 50-80. My Global fuel went from -39 to -12 and fuel injectors deadtime went from +245ms, -30ms.

I have run the car at 12.6 to 13.2 AFR (WB reading) and 0 knock. Great power. (1 degree of knock starts at 13.8)
Idle CombinedFT is good.

I think I need to resolve the exhaust leaks because WB AFR reading is most likely wrong. Should I move the WB to the O2 housing for better results also?

Now that I have forced WB AFR for match AFREst, fuel is dumping out tail pipe on WOT.. and she doesn't feel as good.

In my throttle position, I have areas where the thing goes mass lean and stumbles (around 20% throttle).. annoying. When the car is not at operating temp, she stalls a lot coming to lights.

Cool thanks!

I think it's a preference thing, I personally just went with factory location.

Just adjust your AFR table so that you get it to the ratio you want. I think I agree with you though, something seems off.

This one I am not sure about, maybe an issue with ISC or a leak. you still running water lines to the throttle body?

Take your NB and toss it in the trash. Install WB in front O2 hole select simnb in link and never look back. Nb's are redundant sensors if you have a WB not even usefull to tell you you have an inefficient cat once you have link.

Yeah. I still have coolant lines running to TB.

I am still hitting that 6500rpm loss of power wall. I am going to blame the intake and just finally get a SMIM or cast Magnus one. And if I do that, I'll do their S90 billet 74mm.

Today I did a coolant change and changed the thermostat.
30% coolant + ww. 70% water
Let it warm up to op temp, it hit 186 and then dropped to 176. just kept repeating. No fans. Quite happy she is running cooler now.

I am going to have to source a second O2 housing and re-examine getting side exhaust with cut out.

Seeing I need to fix the o2 to dp leak. i'll see what I can do. thank you.

Definitely fix that exhaust leak before you trust a downstream WB. Your leak can pull Oxygen during its negative pulses.

Here's a fun fact.

I was rummaging through all the spare parts I got with my talon when I bought it. I know the engine was a donated from a 1G. Look at what I found.




I remember a photo of a silver 1g the seller sent me, so I searched for Gore on here. And found: Pseidon's 1990 Eagle Talon

Yup. Jeremy, I have your engine (and rad). Looks like car was parted out.

Charles, I am going to assume with that size of injectors that over running your intake manifold is not the issue you are dealing with. What's link say your lb/min are?

As for the water lines to the tb, I would run the car than pull the tb and see if you have any water on the isc.

For those operating temps you need to check to see what it is for 2g, I thought it was 180 so you will be flipping back and forth between closed loop and open loop. I know 1g is 190 but pretty sure I heard 2g is lower.

This is my test run @ 22psi. I am only using HP numbers to show the butt dyno loss of power feel.

I hit peak HP by 5600rpm
HP: 334 -- Airflow 35lbs -- 22psi

by 6800 rpm
HP: 275 -- Airflow 40lbs - 20psi.

My loss of 2 psi is interesting. I always shut my pulls down at 6800 as the car feels like she is really forcing to accelerate.

my 180 was with cap off and idle for 5 mins.
On the road I am more around 190-200.

Gonna stop trying to diagnose till all my leaks are fixed. Maybe cams (272 or 280) may be in order before the stock intake manifold.

The intake isn't your problem, and you're a long, long ways from needing that kind of throttle body. That's a lot of money that could be better spent elsewhere.

Start by fixing the problems you know about (exhaust leaks). Then get your tune figured out. Then see if you're still hitting the wall.

What's your timing doing during these pulls?

Exactly what my table says.
in range stated above going from 12 to 10.
Haven't tried seeing if I could advanced since I installed AFPR.

Top table is my table (not really modified since purchase).
Bottom table is the default ecmlink table.



I know I tried in the past and it did not like 11 or high near redline.

Maybe I should try and start over with all the tables.
Evo3 tables?

What do your logs say your timing is doing? The ECU will pull timing if it thinks there's an issue and you'll get the symptoms you're experiencing. I'm just trying to figure out if that's what's going on.

The fact that you're getting more airflow but have substantially less power suggests that your timing is getting pulled back.

Logs say

5600 -> 12.0
6800 -> 9.6

There is no timing being pulled. Just doing what the Timing table is set to.

Okay cool, cross that off the list. Probably a good idea like you said to fix the leaks then go back to trying to diagnose

Charles you should post up a log.

Agreed 100%. I'm flowing 58lbs/min through a 1g throttle body and Evo 2 IM.

I tried to move the timing up after 6000 (everything up to 12).
Knock Knock...



12 deg Timing @ 6k - LOG FILE

10 deg Timing @ 6800k Rich - LOG FILE


It really is only happy with 10 degrees up top.

And more shtuff. I went for a cruise to Norwood. My coolant change didn't fair so well. Great when weather is cold.. but daytime 25 degrees, she is in the 220 zone and climbs if I drop speed to 100 instead to 120. (seems as though when RPMs drop, cooling effect drops). Could also be speed not as much air passing in rad, but... bad water pump? Maybe I have a pocket of air. I had to crank the heater to get temps to stay @ 210. it's 20% coolant, 80% water + Water Wetter.

Frick n Frackn.

This morning burped the system. Same problem. 216+ (no heater on). I turned the rad fan on full in link and temp dropped to 210 on highway. I'll try fixes in steps.

#1. Improve Flow to Rad
- Air Dam / Shroud
- Create a small ramp to help air up and over the FMIC

#2. Heat Shields on Manifold and O2
- Bought Manifold Blanket
- Will custom fab O2 housing one.

If above fails..

#3. Find a way to get a second pusher fan in between condenser and rad. Or just in front of condenser and lose this sheet metal on the back of one side of the rad

[/quote]


If all else fails... Yank Condenser.
Was hoping eventually I could have AC. /sniff

#causeracecar

Yes, you need to get rid of that piece of metal on the driver side.... like we said when you first posted it up, a properly sealed shroud is a big help. That thing is a huge hindrance.

Dump that metal. There is very little air flow there even with those holes drilled in.

P.S racecars don't need AC 😆

Also most slim fans don't move nearly as much air as the oem rad fan.

i use SPAL fans instead OEM. Pull more/near CFMs than stock



rated for 1640 CFMs. Takes less space than OEM

I agree the slim fan doesn't move as much cfm.....but he is also having highway high temps...fans arent really the concern. Airflow across the rad is. Dump the metal and some proper ducting will probably fix it right up. You should also check the condition of your condenser from fins could be bent or saturated in oil impeding airflow aswell.

Also a new OEM rad cap might be a good idea.

Thanks for info. I thought there was some argument back in the day to LEAVE the thing because it helped the fan out. My mistake. I will remove.

Yes.. I would need a very slim fan. The clearance between the rad and waste-gate arm is 2.25" And obviously.. it can't sit right against it and clearance for heat shield. Let's say 1-3/4" fan (inc motor).

So I did manage to rebuild my throttle body today. not too painful. After some contemplating on cooling... I decided:

1. Let me take the battery out so I can change the fuel filter and run a couple more wires through firewall for gauges at a later date. Ah crap.. main stereo power wire slipped out of the connector. Good job previous owner.

2. #1 turns into: Oh yeah. Stereo Main amp for speakers has been cutting out (started acting up a couple days ago). Front speakers aren't working anymore, I should replace with better mid bass speakers (front and rear). I should also remove that 750w 4 channel amp and just use main deck. I don't like the way he ran wires one passenger and 1 driver for 4ga wire to trunk amps. I want to clean that up.

3. #2 turns into: Well, If i delete the 750w 4 channel amp, I have to rewire speakers back to stock head unit and delete extra power cable to trunk. I might as well relocate the battery cause I will be in that area removing wire anyway.

4. #3 turns into: Well if battery is in trunk, I can remove number 4 gauge power wire on driver side for sub amp.

5. #4 turns into: I have to remove center console to do all this, I might as well install short shifter kit. Right? Easier to move around with no front seats.. right?

6. #5 turns into: Might as well remove back seats too. Make life easier. What are they good for? Nothing. Let's make it a two seater and do a custom fiberglass deck for where the rear seats used to be.

7. #6 turns into: if I have all that out, I might as well replace the carpet.

8. #7 turns into: but before carpet, I really should deal with the sunroof sliding cover that is destroyed and will leave fluff everywhere when I try to remove it. Hey.. I think a nice black paisley silk would look goods to recover it. Maybe I should do the whole headliner thing.



You see how this is going right? Damn DSM avalanche!!!

What are you using for Coolant?

Would love to see how number 6 turns out, haha!

Also will add there is nothing wrong with slim fans BUT you will be spending a sh!t load of money to get one that will flow what the stock ones did. Pusher fans are a nice option too but it seems your issue is during speed so that peace of medal removed should help a lot.

Also no A/C is always good, haha. You could always go 3 core rad too, but I am not a fan of this option because you may be hiding an issue you could fix for less money.

Proper shrouding for the radiator works wonders. If it's shrouded and you have nothing blocking the airflow going through the radiator, you should have no problems unless there's something more serious causing the problem.

Like a head gasket lol

That has crossed my mind. But if temp outside is below 15.. she is well behaved. 186-196 highway. No white smoke. No coolant smell when I mash throttle. I don't lose coolant. Oil and Coolant look clean (coolant did seem to collect some rust from the block from winter storage)

I still have not done a leak down test. Only compression.

I am hoping you are using distilled water...

Yes sir.

My tablet holder came in! Priorities!