Just curious what temperatures you guys are seeing with this weather.

With My fans on (which they are on most of the time) I'm between 180-190. Highway I run 180 without the fans because of my ducting. Traffic no fans, it bumps RIGHT up.

Engine bay always feels like a magma field, even after fans on continuous during a drive. I know our engine run hot, but other than holes in the hood, any way to let heat out easier?

Engine bay is always roasting hot for me too. Coolant temps still cycle between 185*F and 195*F in all situations except for extended WOT (creeps up to 200*F). Same way it behaves on a cool 10*C evening.

Ducting is great when you're moving; a proper shroud works at all speeds

I'm usually between 195-200, it's very hilly in my parts and I'll literally be climbing altitude for 10 minutes at a time, during those climbs it will peak up about 210. It's up there but those are still considered normal operating temps.

I'll be getting a thicker FMIC this winter so better ducting will be in the works.

Throw some washers in the bolts at the back of the hood and remove the seal and that will let some air flow out through there.

Looks rather silly though.

Nothing too extreme, I can take a picture of mine you can't really tell.

im in and around the 180 mark on my gst, and my new hood made a significant difference in temp as well.

Have you done any testing to prove this dropped engine bay temps? Years ago I read this wasn't a good idea on our cars & would actually slow down air flow through the engine bay. Don't recall exactly why, possibly something about that are being a high pressure zone?

I'm typically 200-206 & sometimes up to 210. Still have AC & believe Victory Performance FMIC uses a Garrett core (which aren't know for the best airflow across the core). Car has ducting as well & stock thermostat. Main fan is a 13" SPAL.

I need to double check, I am pretty sure the new car has stock setup so I can make the change once I get the car running and compare.

I know have the vent right where the exhaust is (like Jeremy and now Devon has) because it's a high pressure zone where as the back isn't so it won't make as much of a drastic difference.

One thing I forgot is that if this is on your 1G that's to cool, you need to be at least 190 for the ecu to switch between open and closed loop.

Incorrect.

You need to be at at least 190F for the ECU to start learning/setting the fuel trims. You can get into open loop anytime you want based on the openloop thresholds that are set (and changeable) in the tables. Generally if the coolant is below a certain temp, throttle is above a certain %, etc. you will be in open loop. WOT is always open loop regardless of ECT.

It was more the closed loop at idle that I was referring to, but you can change at what temp it flips to closed loop?

I believe you can...I haven't opened ECMLink in a very, very long time but I do believe it's in there.

Cool, good to know!

Thanks I feel better Didn't know about that loop thing though, always tried keeping it under 180 seeing as the engine bay was so damn hot. I have seen my fuel economy go down though, could be the culprit.