Quick question. The kit came with 3 sizes, M3, M7 and the M12. I'm assuming this is in gph. Anyways, I plugged in my spec in a calcutor to determine the size I would need and it states that I need a 4.65 gph. Would it be ok to go with the M7 or go down to an M3?

Please help.

I'm running the M10. Start with the M7 and see how it runs.

thank you

I started with an M3.. went to an M5.. I just dropped in the M7.

(Thanks again, Ziggy, and PPG!) So far, so good.

I AM wondering what an M10 would do now, though..

Just so you guys know, I DO have nozzles in stock if you want to try something different...

Sorry to keep bugging you guys about this topic, but I have another question.

A friend of mine helped me install the kit and he told me not to thread the connections on the pump all the way cuz it might crack. Now I have a little leak on the connection on the pump that goes to the nozzles. Did you guys thread it all the way? Or 3/4 of the way?

About 3/4 of the way is good. Thread it in a little more till it stops leaking.

Can I hijack this post too?

I wired in my pump yesterday. I wanted to make sure the pump would work so I unplugged the relay and jumped a wired going from the red wire on the pump to the 12V power wire. (everything was grounded properly) So with the other end of the water line pointing away from the car I jumped the wires and the pump started pumping. It was running for maybe 5 seconds and then it sounded like there was resistance, because it stopped and starting clicking. (sounded kinda like a bad starter clicking) It pulled fluid out of the washer reservoir, but none came out the other end. (check valve was not installed)

So everytime I try to jump the wires now, it runs for about a second and then just clicks. Any ideas? Ziggy shipped it to me, but it was very well packaged, so I doubt it was damaged in the mail.

thanx again

Just wondering if anyone is closing the gap on your spark plugs.

I've made no changes running as high as 28psi with no issues.

Thnx Kevin.

Was just curious if most went with the pressure switch or the MAP sensor/progressive controller setup?

I went with the pressure switch. I was going to go with the progressive kit but after doing some research I found that a lot of guys seem to be using just the basic kit with the pressure switch and are getting great results.

Most went with the basic kit. Most NON DSM sales have been progressive kits. I think only ONE or maybe two in the original group of about 19 was a progressive kit..

I guess thats the ol cheeper is better DSM thinking coming into play Seems like both will work equally as well but having the injection control progressive to boost seems like a good idea. I wanted to pick up a MAP sensor so I could log actual boost with my DSMlink, so the progressive kit may be the way for me to go, as a std kit + a MAP sensor is almost the cost of a progressive kit.

How long does it take for your turbo to go from 0 psi to your set-boost?

I honestly don't think turning the injection on "progressively" over that amount of time does anything.

But.. I'm also cheap.

Actually never thought about it that way. From 0 psi till full boost would be a few seconds (haven't ever paid attention) but I believe even with the progressive you start injecting around half your desired boost level. So if is the case, while the time from 0 to 12 psi would probably be a second or two, the time from 12 to 24psi would be a split second. I was thinking they would be pretty close in price ($40-50) when you add the MAP sensor to the base kit but looks like there still about $120 difference for the controller. So I may just go with the trend & cheep out

Exactly what I thought. I was gonna get the progressive, but just went with the basic, although there is no harm in getting the progressive.

Ya, the basic kit PLUS Map sensor with connector is still $90.USD less than the Progressive kit that includes the map sensor. That $90.USD is basically the difference between the pressure switch and the progressive controller...

Has anyone installed an LED when the pump turns on. As soon as I get time, I think I'll try to hook up an LED so I know when the pump is pumping.

Hmmmmm. That's a good idea. I never thought about that.

I am installing my snow system very soon. A few questions.I have gm maf blow throw pretty close to my tb. Anyone running gm maf also close to the injection and any bad effects noticed. I guess might be able to redo piping and move it farther away if have to.

^^^ I know the hot-wires in the GM mas isn't supposed to get wet, so I wouldn't want to be spraying it! I'll be running my 3.5" mas before the turbo to eliminate any possibility of a problem.

I tried to connect the LED and it doesn't seem to work. I've spliced a wire from the power wire on the pump to the LED. Am I missing something?

Hmm well should be able to move that maf farther away from the tb no big deal don't want to go draw thru my blow off vents to atmosphere.

It would be nice if dsmlink would finally have speed density option so could just drop the maf already. But they are taking forever in bringing out the new version of it.

Kevin you are on your new turbo now..3575 wasn't it?
What kind of boost and timing and afr can you don on your alc with that and are your running 100% meth? E85 sounds very promising once we get a lot more stations.

Isn't using more then 50% methanol harmful for the pump? The manufacturer recommends not more then 50% methanol to be used on the pump.

I know that the sureflow pumps (used in the Devil's Own kit) are tested and proven to run pure methanol without a problem. Not sure about the others.

I'm still waiting on flanges to make up an 02 housing for it. I'll let you know when its running a I have a base tune.

On the Devils own web site, it states that the sureflow pump is not recommended past 50% meth.

I remember reading somewhere on something in the kit that they were good for 100% methanol. I am going to look into it again.

Here is the link

Shurflo Pump

Have some more questions for the users. I was origionally thinking I would just use the factory washer fluid container but I was planning on just using washer fluid. It seems like thats not the best idea & I think I'll mix my own water/meth, so I was wondering where most mounted their tanks, in the trunk or in the engine compartment? Being a 2g engine compartment space is very limited, so it will probably end up in the trunk. I was thinking on going with the 4 quart tank. If you have your tank in the trunk are you running the line through the interior of the car or on the exterior? Will the line that comes in the kit be enough or should I order extra?

I'm thinking I'll probably go with the basic kit, 4 quart tank & a level switch that I will hook to the pump & a dash LED. Are there other things that I should be picking up as well?

I've got mine installed in the engine compartment. I'll gets some pic tonight. I've got a 1G though and plenty of room where the air filter used to be.

Hi Guys,

What is everyone useing for their mix of meth injection? I see on the Devils Own site they say to use "Super TECH windsield washer fluid -20" but all I can find is -40 which I would think would have more meth.

I see some people are just buying straight meth from home depot but where do you get distiled water from?

How many people are just running pure meth?

I'm using -40 wiper fluid. You are correct, it has more meth than the -20 fluid.

You can get distilled water from any grocery store.

Unless I were to pick up a small fuel cell, I wouldn't feel comfortable running pure meth. Having a flimsy plastic container filled with a flammable liquid under the hood/in the car doesn't sit well with me.

Even the wiper fluid will burn. It takes a bit to get it going, but it does have enough meth in it.

So how well does the -40 work for you? What psi are you running?Are you useing the wallmart supertech stuff?

I hear you with the flammable thing, doesn't sound like a great idea to run pure meth.

You can get methanol from home depot, it's labelled as Methyl Hydrate, 99.99% pure. Price is less than $7 for a gallon. You can also get deionized water at any Canadian Tire as well.

BTW I have now upgraded to a single M14 nozzle from the M10. My boost is set to spike to 29 psi then fall to around 26.5 psi by redline. The boost spike makes some nice mid rpm torque.

Car seems to be running more stronger with the M14 nozzle, without no quench at all. Figured I would just skip the M12 and use the M14. Use the biggest nozzle that gives you no quench, if you want to run high boost.

Looks like I'll be on this bandwagon in the next couple weeks as well. This supertech washer fluid, is it as good as a mix your own meth/water solution or is it preferred to mix your own? How do the two compare price wise?

Looks like the kit comes with a M7 as the largest size, I added a M10 as well. Think it should be fine for a "street tune", running 22-24 psi.

I tried the windshield washer stuff and it worked fine. It works out to about $10 for a jug of Methyl Hydrate and a jug of deionized water which is less than $2. Also same price for 2 jugs of windshield washer fluid, depending on the brand. Take your pick. I prefer mixing my own knowing its 99.99% pure meth, instead of guessing the mix in windshield washer fluid.

The one time I used the smurf piss, it was a holiday and Home Depot and Cnd Tire were closed, and I just happened to run out of it that day. So I just pulled up at Sunoco and poured in the "blue" coloured -40 washer fluid. Worked great!