lately my car seems to vibrate when i'm on the brakes. what gives? the rotors and pads look fine, although i'm not 100% sure since i was checking at night in my garage.

but what sorts of things should i be looking for? it seems to be directly related to how hard i get on the brakes.

any suggestions as to what to check/look for?

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96 Talon TSi AWD
"use the boost luke..."

Sounds like warped rotors Ray

I got bad news you have warped rotors and you will either have to replace or turn the rotors and new pads are in order. I had the same problem with mine!

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95 Talon TSI AWD
Sean Markham

Too much Millies for you saturday night Ray,hehe. You left pretty soon after you got there! Cause i didnt wanna run you? lol

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DSM Powered Hyundai

GO LEAFS GO!!!!!

I have a warped front drivers rotor.

I raced this 87?? Turbo II Rex the other day, up to around 180.

Got on the brakes, and it scared the uholy sh!t out of me. Wheel was jumping around, sounded like something was gonna fly apart on the front end.

Lesson: No high speed runs with warped rotors. No drag racing for me til I upgrade the brakes... :-)



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Darin Chalifoux
92 Laser AWD
"Fat guys can drive, too!"
Edmonton

http://www.cadvision.com/whitecd/CADSM/darin.html

whoa... really? hmm, you guys sure it's not something else? i have no problems taking the rotors off and putting them back on myself, but rotors are expensive. if i take them off will i be able to see the warping?
if i don't see warping does that mean they're not warped, or is it like a marginal thing that can only be measured on a machine?

where's the cheapest place to get some quality rotors??? anyone?

thomas - yeah, it was kinda cold and my g/f kept laughing cause she said it reminded her way too much of the A&E special especially since she saw someone with a camcorder. anyways, too bad we couldn't have raced. i would have loved to have been the first to take you on. maybe next time???

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96 Talon TSi AWD
"use the boost luke..."

[This message has been edited by Ray Yoon (edited February 28, 2000).]

You generally can't see the warp in a rotor unless it i s REALLY bad. The runout is usually measured in thousands of an inch. It doen't take a lot out warpage to be felt. If it gets bad enough it can cause some real problems (siezed calipers etc.). If you haven't had it done before and the runout isn't too bad, you can probably just have the rotors machined. I had mine done twice before they were no longer able to be turned.


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Darren Schoff
90 Laser Turbo

Ray, you need rotors, stop being tight, If you cant stop, you could die
have a nice day

Marco sums it all up!

Good Job, Brother!



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Darin Chalifoux
92 Laser AWD
"Fat guys can drive, too!"
Edmonton

http://www.cadvision.com/whitecd/CADSM/darin.html

We will go Ray

p.s. rotors are what like 60-80 bux each?
Not worth messing with ur brakes. Maybee just machine them and that will do the trick.

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DSM Powered Hyundai

GO LEAFS GO!!!!!

Check the vfaq on brakes before you start. The front rotors can be impossible to get off.

I have a buddy who still laughs himself to crying when he recalls me trying to get my rotors off in his driveway. The laughter starts at the point in his mental movie when I grab the "chopper 1" wood maul and start whanging on the @#$@#$ rotors to no avail.

Check your CV joints for wear! I had replaced my front rotors and I still had a vibration, checked my outer CV joints and they were toasted. Changed the shafts and no more problems

Warped rotors will vibrate onyl when braking, cv joints should vibrate most of the time.
Ray, if the vibration is felt mainly in the steering wheel it probably is your fronts, if it is in the car, probably your backs.

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Shawn (Really my wifes car) Basso
Love those f-bodies

Ray,

If you just want to buy some time, have some local shop turn the rotors for you (it'll be cheaper if you take them off yourself). If you're going to replace them, definintely upgrade. The stock brakes pretty much suck. In my first year of owning my 2G I:

-warped the original set and had them turned
-warped them again, replaced rotors
-warped the new set and had them replaced.

What can I say, I love braking. I'm taking it a little easier now. I've learned my lesson though, no more stock rotors!

Can't imagine what it's like on the 1Gs with those puny little bicycle rotors.

Jeff Mitchell

Ray

Don't listen to these 1g guys with tiny rotors.

I have beat the heck out of about a dozen 2g AWD rotors and never warped one.

You probably just glaized them. (After a weekend at the track mine always vibrate for about a week until they clean themselves up)

Before you replace them change the pads to a good set of semi-metalics and deglaze the surface of the rotors by taking the shine off with sandpaper.

(The metalic pads may be enough to do this on there own without sanding but sanding is recommended for a better bed in.)
Try the new pads for a few weeks before you get desparate enought to change rotors.

And if some body can tell me where to get these rotors for $60-$80 I will buy them a beer. The big rotors run on the average over $100.

Oh and Jeff dont know what you are doing to warp your rotors (do you have a AWD or FWD). We are getting about 10 hours of track time (about 1-2 years) before needing to replacing stock rotors due to eventual cracking.

oh man... now i hear the rotors are over $100 bucks, and i'm gonna assume that's for stock rotors. and marco, i'm not being tight... i just have no cash. but i might if SOMEONE WOULD BUY THIS GS-R MOTOR !!! but none of you guys are interested...
okay, so here's my NEW question. what type of rotors is everyone using, and how much did they cost? what kinds of pads are you guy using and how much did they cost?
i plan to change the brake components myself.

SHAWN - thanks for the tip, the vibration is mainly in the steering wheel during heavy braking, so i'll assume for now it's only the front rotors that are shot.

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96 Talon TSi AWD
"use the boost luke..."

Victor,

It's a 95 AWD. Stock brakes, always the fronts which warped (and definitely warped and not glazed in my case).

The first two times were quick stops from a *very* high speed (like I said, I've learned my lesson now). Not sure about the last time, but I think it was just a fluke that I got them to warp so quickly. (could something have been put together slightly out of spec and promoted warping?)

Anyways, so far there haven't been any problems with the current set, and hopefully the spring/summer driving season won't bring any.

Jeff Mitchell

euro rotors: 69$ each for a 1G with big brakes.

KVR performance: 1-800-636-0854.

That's cheap for a man's life. Or could I buy you for that price to do my tranny and other work? That woud be cheap labour.

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Michel
it's going to be ready tomorrow, I promise
http://www.azur.qc.ca/rallye

Ray

KVR make an excellent street pad and they are inexpensive.

(I'll have to look into there stock rotor prices. I thought they only sold drilled or slotted)

I use Porterfield for racing. For the track they are well worth the big bucks.

Maybe you guys are too easy on the rotors. On the track we get them red hot and heat cycle them every 15 seconds. Maybe that is what keeps them from warping.

Okay Okay so your not tight, but I never got my kinder egg, you, you......
listen chek the website for an interesting brake special.......mmmm........big brakes........
I'm gonna sell that goddamn motor for you man I swear I'm gonna.
And Victor I think maybe your pads are the reason your rotors live so long, plus these guys probably still have they're original rotors on.
And RayRay is pretty nutty on the car.

I drive my car fast enough to regularly fade the brakes, I once faded them going up a mountain . I've had the same rotors for 110kkm without turning, and they're just now getting a bit warped, partially because I used those crappy tire pads, and mainly because I do the following....

1) When I stop hard, I never leave my foot on the brake. This keeps the portion under the pad from cooling as quickly as the exposed part. If you're forced to stop on a hill, stop short or long then use the ebrake to let the car roll slowly until the light changes.
2) Uneven torquing of your wheel nuts. You wouldn't tighten your valve cover nuts sequentially so don't for your wheels either. Snug the first bolt, skip two and repeat until they're all on. Repeat for a few cycles until they're all at the right torque. Check again after a few days too.

hmm, interesting brake special there Marco. does that include rotors? will i be able to use my stock calipers?

Actually, what's included in that price? is it just the rotors? very tempting, but like i said, i think i'll be selling the car soon after the DSM vs THEM event so i can do some travelling, but i'll probably end up buying another dsm when i get back, so... hmm...

I've been meaning to stop by with some kinder eggs and a happy meal for you... maybe i'll do that soon so you can show me your pads and i'll show you my vibrat....
...

ing car.
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96 Talon TSi AWD
"use the boost luke..."

[This message has been edited by Ray Yoon (edited March 04, 2000).]

Michel,

These Euro rotors would fit on a 1G NT, with stock rims, and all i'd need to get is the dual piston calipers like the stealth has..?

And that would be the big-brake upgrade, right?

(+pads, shims, etc..)

..and the caliper braket or carrier that bolts up to the hub. That's the hard part to find.

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Michel
it's going to be ready tomorrow, I promise
http://www.azur.qc.ca/rallye

Any idea what the dual-piston calipers cost?
+ the bracket..

Well, if you have a core, a rebuild will probably cost you around100$. Add maybe 75$ for the core. The bracket is the hard thing to find. You will have to check the trader or a scrap yard or your friendy folks at Magnus.

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Michel
it's going to be ready tomorrow, I promise
http://www.azur.qc.ca/rallye

[This message has been edited by Michel Brais (edited March 05, 2000).]